el cid

You should definitely check your library - they might have online access to the journal for patrons. It amazes me all the online resources my library has - every thing from language lessons to newspaper archives to obscure movie services, there's a chance yours will have access to this one.

Sorry, as a former newspaper employee who has seen what "free" information has done to outlets, I can't agree. I now work for a company that charges a bundle for the information we provide. I'm better paid, have better benefits and our customers seem happy, since our profits are rising. Meanwhile, take a look at your local newspaper and compare it to the size and amount of news that had been provided 20 or 30 years ago. That's the impact of everyone wanting everything for free. Gathering and publishing credible information costs money. There is an amazing amount of free information available on the Web, we are extraordinarily lucky to have access to it. But generating information isn't free.
I think I should be able to walk into my local Mercedes dealership and drive off with what I want, but unfortunately, Mercedes won't let me. Information is just as valuable. 
You're lucky - even though the Post & Courier has cut back a bit, it still has high aspirations and a good amount of content.  

Despite what is expected by a large number of people, information is not free.  Academic journals and most professional journals require a paid subscription to access published information.  In fact, I would not trust the content of any free access journal.  Those journals are called throwaways for a reason.  

I suspect institutions -- libraries, universities, etc. -- pay for access for their members, so if you can demonstrate that you're associated with one, you can get in.  I suspect, if you contacted the publisher, they would either sell you the article you're interested in or direct you to an institution that would loan it to you.
 
Particularly on technical subjects, I expect to pay for good information.  We subscribe to a data service at work that costs a fortune.  Every year I have to answer questions about how much value we get from it and every year we renew that subscription.  The people who run that service earn every penny of it.
 
 
Dan

Update
 
1. Gun deck completed.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Making some good progress on the Calypso lately!
 
I started building the bridge and the upper cabins. Let me start by saying the stairs up to the bridge according to the kit instructions was supposed to be just a single piece of wood glued from the bottom of the stairs up to the landing. Boooo! I took that piece of wood and created two stair treads following the angle formed by the upper and lower formers. Wasn't too hard to make but I can tell I'll need to paint these black or a dark color to distract from the fact the stair tread is a tad too thick!
 
The forming of the stairway wall wasn't as hard as I thought it would be! What I did was steam the piece and bent it around a Tamiya paint bottle. Took about 3 steaming sessions before it created a good curve but patience is a virtue so they say!
 
I next super glued the part of the stairway wall where it attaches to the bridge and added more super glue on the formers. Clamped that portion down then added super glue to the remainder of the former and clamped the stairway wall from one side to the other. I think it came out great!
 
Now about the multi-faceted bridge windows...
 
I loosely tapped the edges where the panels line up to each other using paint masking tape. Then with the bridge assembly upside down I slowly tacked each piece to the styrene former making sure the top (now on the bottom) of each window frame was on the cutting matt and the edges lined up with the adjacent window frame. It took about 20 minutes to get the shape and look that I wanted... along with a few choice words thrown in there for effect!
 
I'll paint the upper structure tonight and pray that it comes out looking right.
 
More to come!
 
Fuji

Mersey Return
 
Two Flowers and an HDML

W/C 14" X 10"

Today's trip. HMCS Prince Rupert river class

Another little 'un an early Flower in Convoy 
w/c 6" X 4"

The sheave on deck permits a gang of seamen to haul on the line as it extends across the deck. Obviously, only one or two men at a time can pull a line down without a sheave because there isn't room for more to get a hold on the line. 
 
When the line is hauled through a deck sheave or turning block, the line is brought up to the front of pin rail and a half-twist is made in the line and cast over the pin and pulled tight. The remaining bitter end is coiled with the coil held in the left hand. When coiled, the right hand reaches through the middle of the coil and grasps the bitter end of the line where it comes off the pin and a a suitable length of line being made between the coil and the right hand, that length is pulled through the center of the coil and a half-twist made in it, which is thrown over the pin so that the coil is hung neatly from the pin. 
 
When line is let go, it is a simple matter to lift the hitch off the top of the pin and lay the coil on deck, then cast off the first half hitch on the pin, and the line will pay out neatly from the without kinking or fouling.
 
Many books and manuals will depict a method of taking multiple turns around a belaying pin before hitching the line to the pin. While there is a method of taking an initial turn before hitching in cases where it is feared the weight of the load may make it difficult to cast off a single hitch on the pin, in practice, it's not a problem that's often encountered, as a horizontal pull of the fall, (called "sweating the line") will make losening the single hitch easy enough if the size of the line and the size of the pin are properly matched. Unnecessary turns around pins, cleat, cavels, and posts are the hallmarks of sloppy seamanship. All belaying should be done in a uniform fashion, as well, since one crewmember may tie off and another let go. In a blow and a heavy sea in the middle of the night is no place to be trying to untie "black" knots tied by some lubber!

Actually, when it comes to butt joints, even with butt blocks, it's proper to install them in a spacing which keeps them all as far apart from each other as is possible. The butts are inherently weak points which are better spread as far apart as possible and there are various classic "butt shift schedules" which you will find in any wooden boat or ship building text.  I have seen in many modeling books the practice of butting planks on a frame. However, in full size construction practice and its related literature, I've never seen planks butted on a frame to be a recommended practice. The butt block is a far stronger and better construction method. Modernly, of course, epoxy adhesives have made face-scarfing plank stock a viable alternative, eliminating the plank butt issue entirely. In all my years mucking about boatyards, I've only encountered one vessel, a 63' staysail schooner, which, oddly to everyone's eyes, had her planks butted on her frames. She was originally launched as the Mavoureen Mary and was renamed Landfall a few years later. She was designed by Edson Schock for the actress Maureen O'Hara and her husband. and launched in the early 'thirties. She's had a good long life and is still around, last I heard. When I last saw her in the mid-seventies, the was undergoing frame and planking repairs which were occasioned, according to the yard crew, by the fact that her planks were butted on her sawn frames. They attributed this oddity to the fact that, for some reason, she was built by the Boeing Aircraft Company! Boeing of Canada did build yachts early on, an offshoot of their seaplane manufacturing subsidiary.  
 
Gotcha! In fact, the Venetian gondolas are intentionally built with an asymmetrical hull. They do move to one side if left to their own devices. The purpose of this oddity is that it compensates for the opposite tendency when the gondolier sculls with his oar on only one side of the boat. This design feature is unique to gondolas.

Thanks, I enjoy doing them.
The Chase 
This afternoon's adventure . The Chase from my imagination W/C 6” X 4”

Try out for a book cover, although the only bit used would be the U boat and Corvette. It illustrates a passage in the book.
I don’t like the back ground . I'll do another, just the ‘portrait' bit this time.

'Royal Yaucht' Gothic passing the Needles
watercolour 14" X 10"

Or reduce the amount of material used - don't try to furl a full sail, but cut the sail to 1/3 to 1/2 the size and furl that instead.  I had a tutorial somewhere on here where I showed my technique.
 
Otherwise, I think your sails look great!  To me, these are sailing ships and if you want to show them with sails, go for it!  I did furled sails on my Badger, but will go for full sails (or a mixture of furled and full) on my next builds.  Personally, I think sails bring these beauties to life.

It is a proper look for whenever a tank is traveling under it's own power in unpaved conditions just as any other off road vehicle. BUT you can be certain that as soon as they return to base the crew will be all over the exterior cleaning dirt, dust, and mud from everywhere they can reach. The ideal is if they have a convenient shallow river close by where they can just drive in and give it a good scrub down. It seemed to me that every time I saw an armored unit they were either going somewhere getting dirty or sitting still getting cleaned. 

This from page 42; it seems closing the gun ports between shots was situational, perhaps as a ship rolls or comes about in heavy seas?
 

Dave
Have you looked at the mast, spar, and rope sizes on the spread sheet here at MSW?  It is based on the formulas from Lees' Masting and Rigging English Ships of War book and is quite useful except for the period from 1670 to 1711.  An incorrect formula was used on the length of the main mast for this time span so every thing else that follows is wrong.   But, from 1640 to 1670 and from 1711 to 1860 all the numbers appear to be correct.  Go to "More" on the ribbon at the top of the MSW  page, then click on Articles Data Base, then scroll down to Masting and Rigging Spread sheet and click on it and the spread sheet will appear.   Danny Vadas did a great service in creating this.  I wish someone had Danny's original so the one time period between 1670 and 1711 could be corrected.
 
 

Like a lot of people on this site I love the beauty and history of these ships.  I am also a constant student of history so I am very much drawn to the why, what, where, when and how ships function. 
One thing I learned early on is that I will never be done learning.
 
Best wishes for a rewarding and successful journey of knowledge.
 
Regards,

Isn't it really great when someone takes the time to explain something rather than telling us to go look in " $200 Book " ..
This epitomizes the true worth of these forums..

Looking good!   Just got my first shot today.  One of my sons is married to a pharmacist, so she has been on the lookout for me.  They had 35 doses at her pharmacy that had to be administered today or tomorrow or they would be spoiled, so I rushed in & got`er done.
No ill effects.
 
Mark

So you guys are the ones responsible for the disappearance of all the antique boxwood rules and scales!  
 
Time was, one could scrounge around and amass a collection of traditional boxwood scales and a nice classic folding carpenter's rule without a lot of trouble. Then they started disappearing. I recalled someone said people were buying them because they wanted the boxwood they were made of. I was skeptical, but I'm not skeptical any longer. Realize that the boxwood rules and scales you're cutting up for modeling stock may well be worth a lot more than you think. Not so much plain old "rulers," but be aware of what you've got in your stash. Leave some for those of us who have a use for them.  
 

https://garrettwade.com/product/antique-architects-folding-rule
 
 
 

https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_904792
 

https://www.antiquesboutique.com/antique-barometers-instruments/set-of-architect-s-scale-rules/itm30452#.YGPHTVVKgdU
 
 
 

Nope, don’t give up, just start in a small bit. I’ve just found nearly all my CA has gone off and is pretty much useless, so I’m taking the weekend off awaiting new CA and having a few beers. You can do this. 

Anyone ever hear of Captain Charles Noble?
 
The amount of brightwork (metal) on a ship depended upon the crew and the officers. I was Engineering Officer on a small minesweeper - the "flagship" of the squadron. The crew kept all the brass piping, engine valve covers, gauges and such in the engine room polished. It was their doing, not mine, because they took pride in their engine room. Of course, since we were bolted to the pier most of the time, polishing brass was about all the watch crew had to do.
 
When I went aboard the cruiser (another flagship) most brass was painted. The Captain was a no nonsense man who was commanding a ship of war. After 12 years on cruisers he could drive the 15,000 ton ship like a sports car! The awnings were gray and the metal was painted gray. We got a new XO who wanted to polish all the brass and paint the piping in a rainbow of colors (not the standard navy engineering colors). I was on the bridge when the XO was explaining his plans to the Captain. "Rodney," the Captain said, "you want to turn my ship into a circus boat!"
 
Then that Captain left and we got a new Captain who had spent most of his career commanding a LMD (large mahogany desk). I'm not sure he knew the difference between the pointy end and the blunt end. I don't think he ever took the conn. The XO talked him into making changes, and pretty soon our circus boat was decked out with white awnings, McNamara's lace, and polished brass. The XO went around with a pocket knife scraping paint off of everything looking for brass. Woe be it to the Division Officer who had painted brass!
 
So, to be "historically correct" you would have to model a particular year and know how the officers and crew wanted the brass to look.
 
PS: Ever been in port after a bunch of ships "blew stacks to clear out the soot? White awnings don't stay white very long. There is a reason they were usually gray.
 
PPS: Captain Charles Noble insisted that the brass galley stack on his 1850s English merchantman stay brightly polished. To this day the galley stack on ships is called the Charley Noble.

I can tell you from personal experience that every piece of brass on my signal bridge was polished all the time.😧
 
Regards,