RiverRat

Brian and Sam
The number and size of bolts varied for size of ship and whether it is the fore, main, or mizzen channel as would be expected.  Samples follow:
 
                                                                              64 gun                       18 gun
Main Channel
Number of bolts                                                        9                                7
Bolt diameter                                                            1.25"                         7/8"
Iron T-Plates or supports in lieu of wood                    6                               4
 
Fore Channel
Number of bolts                                                           8                                6
Bolt diameter                                                              1.25"                         7/8"
Iron T-Plates or supports in lieu of wood                     5                              3
 
Mizzen Channel
Number of bolts                                                              6                                5
Bolt diameter                                                              1.125"                         7/8"
Iron T-Plates or supports in lieu of wood                        3                              2
 
I found no mention of spacing for the bolts or the T-plates.
 
Allan

Tom,
 
I've absolutely NO idea what your last comments mean.
What are these "recent events" you mention?
How on earth COULD thou be aware if I check on "our builds for details". Who is this "our" you speak of?
 
I don't inhabit MSW 24/7 and read each and every post. Sorry, I have other life activities. PM your explanation if you want.

Trying for a more realistic look
 

Ha ha, only joking. I went to an awesome antique show last weekend and had to buy this double block. Next to it is one from the kit for scale. When I finish the Syren I'll clean up the old block and hang it in a place of honor in my shop.

I've completed some of the upper planking. I was dis-satisfied with some of the kit's wood for this section and last month ordered some different woods from HobbyMill to try. (Will try Lumberyard next time for comparison)
 
Here's the kit's planking scheme:
 

 
33, 34, 35, and 37 are called out as boxwood (what the kit provides is actually some coarse, splintery something else ---to be replaced); and 36 is walnut (quarterdeck bulwark). 38 and 39 are walnut.
 
I'm changing the "color" scheme above the wales, using cherry for all the regular planks, and walnut for the "decorative" strakes (33 and 35).
 
I first applied a 1x3 cherry plank, top flush with the forecastle deck. The walnut 1.5x3 "C" strake is next. The instructions specify this at certain distances above the 1st, 5th and 10th gunports. I didn't adhere strictly to this, as I wanted the full-width plank above it at the forecastle (for appearance), but it was close enough. This "C" molding seems to be only hinted at in the Admiralty drawing as far as I can tell, and may be the supposition of the kit designer, though I've seen a similar molding on scratch builds. I don't see it on pictures of the Model Shipways kit. The waist's caprail will sit atop this. The line I took for the "C" molding leaves a bit of the first planking exposed above it at the waist, which will be sanded to match the top of the "C". The instructions later have "Sand carefully the whole planking and cut it following the profile pictured on the table A." I assume this refers to this sanding the extra exposed 1st planking here at the waist and on the quarterdeck bulwark. At the stem where the bowsprit enters, I used solid 1.5x3 walnut pieces, rather than have the molded part butting up to the bowsprit.
 

 
Aft, above the "C", are two 1x3mm cherry strakes, a 1x2 walnut strip set on edge, then four 0.5x3 cherry strakes. I bevelled the base of the 1x2 walnut and the top of the 1x3 cherry below it so the 1x2 would sit more horizontally, as it will line up (hopefully) with the short cap rail just fore of the quarterdeck.
 

 
The kit provides some metal narrower-than-the-rail moldings for the end of this short rail. I'll replace this with self carved wood pieces. I will also have this kind of molding aft of the forecastle, seen on drawings and scratch builds, but not included in this kit.
 

 
Some of the 0.5x3 cherry strips were "curly" (cross-grain figuring). I decided to use a little artistic license and use them on the quarterdeck bulwark. It may go against "scale" appearance, but I jus' got's a thang for curly woods! Not sure if the photo shows it well; might be quite striking with a finish applied.
 

 
Next: 5 strakes at the gunport area, then the wales.
 
Question 1: The gunports are metal. I assumed I will be having some 2-part epoxy on hand for the wood-to-metal bond spots in planking these strips. Is this usual or am I over-engineering here?
 
Question 2:  The wales are three 2x2 mm walnut strips glued together. Glue together and bend as a unit? (Would soaking these loosen the glue too much?) Apply each strake seperately? (Possible nightmare tightly fitting the compound curves and angles).
 
Thanks!
 
Brian

I've completed some of the upper planking. I was dis-satisfied with some of the kit's wood for this section and last month ordered some different woods from HobbyMill to try. (Will try Lumberyard next time for comparison)
 
Here's the kit's planking scheme:
 

 
33, 34, 35, and 37 are called out as boxwood (what the kit provides is actually some coarse, splintery something else ---to be replaced); and 36 is walnut (quarterdeck bulwark). 38 and 39 are walnut.
 
I'm changing the "color" scheme above the wales, using cherry for all the regular planks, and walnut for the "decorative" strakes (33 and 35).
 
I first applied a 1x3 cherry plank, top flush with the forecastle deck. The walnut 1.5x3 "C" strake is next. The instructions specify this at certain distances above the 1st, 5th and 10th gunports. I didn't adhere strictly to this, as I wanted the full-width plank above it at the forecastle (for appearance), but it was close enough. This "C" molding seems to be only hinted at in the Admiralty drawing as far as I can tell, and may be the supposition of the kit designer, though I've seen a similar molding on scratch builds. I don't see it on pictures of the Model Shipways kit. The waist's caprail will sit atop this. The line I took for the "C" molding leaves a bit of the first planking exposed above it at the waist, which will be sanded to match the top of the "C". The instructions later have "Sand carefully the whole planking and cut it following the profile pictured on the table A." I assume this refers to this sanding the extra exposed 1st planking here at the waist and on the quarterdeck bulwark. At the stem where the bowsprit enters, I used solid 1.5x3 walnut pieces, rather than have the molded part butting up to the bowsprit.
 

 
Aft, above the "C", are two 1x3mm cherry strakes, a 1x2 walnut strip set on edge, then four 0.5x3 cherry strakes. I bevelled the base of the 1x2 walnut and the top of the 1x3 cherry below it so the 1x2 would sit more horizontally, as it will line up (hopefully) with the short cap rail just fore of the quarterdeck.
 

 
The kit provides some metal narrower-than-the-rail moldings for the end of this short rail. I'll replace this with self carved wood pieces. I will also have this kind of molding aft of the forecastle, seen on drawings and scratch builds, but not included in this kit.
 

 
Some of the 0.5x3 cherry strips were "curly" (cross-grain figuring). I decided to use a little artistic license and use them on the quarterdeck bulwark. It may go against "scale" appearance, but I jus' got's a thang for curly woods! Not sure if the photo shows it well; might be quite striking with a finish applied.
 

 
Next: 5 strakes at the gunport area, then the wales.
 
Question 1: The gunports are metal. I assumed I will be having some 2-part epoxy on hand for the wood-to-metal bond spots in planking these strips. Is this usual or am I over-engineering here?
 
Question 2:  The wales are three 2x2 mm walnut strips glued together. Glue together and bend as a unit? (Would soaking these loosen the glue too much?) Apply each strake seperately? (Possible nightmare tightly fitting the compound curves and angles).
 
Thanks!
 
Brian

Yves. Thanks! I've been finding, though, that most of the detail is lost with the deck above and the transom installed. Without something like LED lighting inside, which I'm not doing, one only gets a hint of the contents in the cabin. That's Ok with me; I just didn't want to have bare kit bulkheads visible in case one actually could get a good view inside through the stern and quarter lights (windows).
 
demonborger. Yes, the inner wall of the bulwarks get horizontal planks. It's probably not a difficult fix; I was just noting my lack of experience and foresight at the time I built that section. More lack of foresight to come, I'm sure!
 
UPDATE
 
Back-tracking a bit --- Before I had got much of the first planking on, I decided to add some stops to the side of the mast slots in the ply keel to limit side play of the base of the masts. I had this probably unfounded worry that a mast might slip sideways out of the slot and drop down into the hull. These were just some glued bits of wood or ply, left and right of the slot, that would allow some side-to-side play but not enough for the mast to leave the keel. Sorry, no photo.
 
Another Mamoli RS builder, I think, mentioned cutting down the size of the obtrusive ply bulkheads supporting the aft of the forecastle. Good idea! I did likewise, at least half cut away, and put some dark stain on them. They will be hidden even more when the bulwarks are planked. No current photo here, but I'll likely show it later.
 
TRANSOM LIGHTS
 
(Sometimes I worry about my properly calling the ship's windows "lights", as there might be some newbies reading these, and think I'm talking about lanterns or something!  )
 
While early on I planned on making see-through windows instead of using the kit's metal part, I had no definite PLANS in mind until I got to the point of making them. Insetting them, or flush with the planking might look better, but I decided on surface mounting low profile frames.
 
First, before planking the transom, I had to refill a part of the big openings I had left in the mahogany false transom. Needed the support between the lights. Transom was then planked with 1x3mm cherry.
 

 
I had ordered some 1mm x 1mm boxwood strips along with the other woods replacing some of the kit wood. I used a small plane to thin some of this down to about 0.6mm to be used as the outside of the frames. For the muntins, the strips separating the panes, I similarly made some 0.6 x 0.6.
 

 
Longish strips of these were pre-painted (white acrylic) on three sides. The bottom was kept free of paint by sticking it to painters tape, the tape peeled away carefully right after the coat.
 
From a tracing of the transom shape, I laid out the lights to arrange them similarly to that in an Admiralty drawing:
 

 
I'm using clear .002" mylar for the glass. This may be similar to the clear plastic sheet protectors you can get where office supplies are sold. The adhesive I'm using for the wood-to-plastic is Super Z RC-56, a canopy glue used most often for RC planes. Looks like white glue (it's not), but dries clear and is flexible. The bottle says it's an excellent adhesive for vinyls, plastics, fabric, wood and glass. I did a test on some small pieces and it bonded well. I could peel it apart, but I'm confident of it for a static, unloaded part.
 
This bottle, though never opened, was a few years old and the adhesive was a bit viscous/thick and hard to spread thinly. I managed OK, but after using it, I read some reviews and learned that it was actually thinner than white glue! So! Fresh stuff for next time.
 
I taped the clear plastic over the paper layout and built the frames on the plastic, scuffing the bondlines a bit with a narrow diamond file for a little more adhesive bite.
 

 
Each light is 9 pieces. Top and bottom horizontals, two sides, these all 1mm x 0.6mm; two full width muntins, and 3 small vertical pieces in the center, these 0.6 x 0.6. Done in that order. Adhesive was goobered on the bondline and the cut-to-length piece set in place. After curing overnight, the lights were trimmed aroung their periphery, leaving the painted wood light on top of a piece of clear plastic.  Cut ends and some joints were touched up with acrylic.
 

 
The cut-outs in the transom are (hoped) to be slightly smaller than each frame, the frame (the plastic underneath) bonded over the opening just under the frame outline (did I explain that OK?) with RC56.
 
The cut-outs aren't done yet, but just for grins, here are the lights temporarily tacked to approximate position. One of the two pieces of horizontal trim has been applied. On the kit's metal piece, the "Rattlesnake" name fits between the two.
 

 
Sheesh! Enough already! Hope I didn't bore you much.
 
Regards,
 
Brian
 
 
 
 
 

I guess there were more than are on the plaque.
 
JPett, the Rattlesnake listed is isn't "ours"!  (but, maybe you realize that) Thats a Pennsylvania sloop, smaller than the Massachusetts Rattlesnake.
 
http://www.awiatsea.com/Privateers/R/Rattlesnake%20Pennsylvania%20Schooner%20%5bBall%20Craig%20Mansfield%20Treen%20Snell%20Stephens%5d.html
 
Here's a listing for the second:
 
http://www.awiatsea.com/Privateers/R/Rattlesnake%20Massachusetts%20Ship%20%5BClark%5D.html
 
Brian

Ferit. I'm chiming in with praise for your hoops!  You must make an instructional video of your technique. The first episode of MSW-TV!

Hey there Spiff,
 
A thread you might want to look at is:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2406-what-is-entry-level-in-the-world-of-wooden-ship-building/
 
It might give some suggestions for you.
 
As far as a resin kit build log, there certainly are some, perhaps not many, but feel free to get one started! All are welcome. Wood, plastic, paper, bone, shells,..........
 
Brian
 

Yves. Thanks! I've been finding, though, that most of the detail is lost with the deck above and the transom installed. Without something like LED lighting inside, which I'm not doing, one only gets a hint of the contents in the cabin. That's Ok with me; I just didn't want to have bare kit bulkheads visible in case one actually could get a good view inside through the stern and quarter lights (windows).
 
demonborger. Yes, the inner wall of the bulwarks get horizontal planks. It's probably not a difficult fix; I was just noting my lack of experience and foresight at the time I built that section. More lack of foresight to come, I'm sure!
 
UPDATE
 
Back-tracking a bit --- Before I had got much of the first planking on, I decided to add some stops to the side of the mast slots in the ply keel to limit side play of the base of the masts. I had this probably unfounded worry that a mast might slip sideways out of the slot and drop down into the hull. These were just some glued bits of wood or ply, left and right of the slot, that would allow some side-to-side play but not enough for the mast to leave the keel. Sorry, no photo.
 
Another Mamoli RS builder, I think, mentioned cutting down the size of the obtrusive ply bulkheads supporting the aft of the forecastle. Good idea! I did likewise, at least half cut away, and put some dark stain on them. They will be hidden even more when the bulwarks are planked. No current photo here, but I'll likely show it later.
 
TRANSOM LIGHTS
 
(Sometimes I worry about my properly calling the ship's windows "lights", as there might be some newbies reading these, and think I'm talking about lanterns or something!  )
 
While early on I planned on making see-through windows instead of using the kit's metal part, I had no definite PLANS in mind until I got to the point of making them. Insetting them, or flush with the planking might look better, but I decided on surface mounting low profile frames.
 
First, before planking the transom, I had to refill a part of the big openings I had left in the mahogany false transom. Needed the support between the lights. Transom was then planked with 1x3mm cherry.
 

 
I had ordered some 1mm x 1mm boxwood strips along with the other woods replacing some of the kit wood. I used a small plane to thin some of this down to about 0.6mm to be used as the outside of the frames. For the muntins, the strips separating the panes, I similarly made some 0.6 x 0.6.
 

 
Longish strips of these were pre-painted (white acrylic) on three sides. The bottom was kept free of paint by sticking it to painters tape, the tape peeled away carefully right after the coat.
 
From a tracing of the transom shape, I laid out the lights to arrange them similarly to that in an Admiralty drawing:
 

 
I'm using clear .002" mylar for the glass. This may be similar to the clear plastic sheet protectors you can get where office supplies are sold. The adhesive I'm using for the wood-to-plastic is Super Z RC-56, a canopy glue used most often for RC planes. Looks like white glue (it's not), but dries clear and is flexible. The bottle says it's an excellent adhesive for vinyls, plastics, fabric, wood and glass. I did a test on some small pieces and it bonded well. I could peel it apart, but I'm confident of it for a static, unloaded part.
 
This bottle, though never opened, was a few years old and the adhesive was a bit viscous/thick and hard to spread thinly. I managed OK, but after using it, I read some reviews and learned that it was actually thinner than white glue! So! Fresh stuff for next time.
 
I taped the clear plastic over the paper layout and built the frames on the plastic, scuffing the bondlines a bit with a narrow diamond file for a little more adhesive bite.
 

 
Each light is 9 pieces. Top and bottom horizontals, two sides, these all 1mm x 0.6mm; two full width muntins, and 3 small vertical pieces in the center, these 0.6 x 0.6. Done in that order. Adhesive was goobered on the bondline and the cut-to-length piece set in place. After curing overnight, the lights were trimmed aroung their periphery, leaving the painted wood light on top of a piece of clear plastic.  Cut ends and some joints were touched up with acrylic.
 

 
The cut-outs in the transom are (hoped) to be slightly smaller than each frame, the frame (the plastic underneath) bonded over the opening just under the frame outline (did I explain that OK?) with RC56.
 
The cut-outs aren't done yet, but just for grins, here are the lights temporarily tacked to approximate position. One of the two pieces of horizontal trim has been applied. On the kit's metal piece, the "Rattlesnake" name fits between the two.
 

 
Sheesh! Enough already! Hope I didn't bore you much.
 
Regards,
 
Brian
 
 
 
 
 

Ha! The midshipman has lost the log and reel in the stormy digital sea!
 
After a long hiatus due to "personal issues", I was about to get back to working on the Rattlesnake and then I find much has been lost in the software change. I thought I'd go ahead and repost some info/pictures before I actually got into it in earnest.
 
I had been wanting to build a replica of an 1870s Ohio River steamboat my ancestors owned and operated, found this site looking for tips, fell in love with some of the builds here, found a great deal on a Rattlesnake kit on eBay, and picked up this infernal shipmodelling disease.
 
I had kept my MSW Rattlesnake log photos in a separate folder on my computer so they're all set to be reproduced.
 
Here's the box picture of the Rattlesnake...

Handsome ain't she?
 
The metal parts provided for the transom, quarter lights ( I used to call these windows until I got a little nawdikal ejukashun), and other areas made me cringe, so I thought I'd replace them with wood or other appropriate medium. Here is the supplied transom decoration and window frames and the supplied transom base with the window area excised...

Here are the original pieces dry-fitted/taped.

The #12 bulkhead is located at the position of the quarter lights, and the horizontal piece, #22, cuts into the cabin space, so I will modify that area to add the quarter lights and open up the cabin to approximate its fullness, as I will be making the lights (windows) clear instead of the blue paper simulated glass.
 
Part of #12 cut away.

Pseudo-framing of transom....

Quarter light frames (very fragile at this point!) made and stern "bench" from #22 piece.... 

I think this shows the template for adding the structure/frame above the light frames (hey, forgive me, it's been a while....)

Here's the rough-shaped transom, balsa filler and the supplied beechwood pieces at the outer ends. The beech was surprisingly easy to shape; could have used it for the whole thing , as designed, without much heartache.

Most of the main deck planking done, with a scale Captain Clarke (hey! looks like John Paul Jones....)

Gunports and framing, fore- and quarterdeck supports, and fake bowsprit root in case that area is visible....

I had grandiose visions of outfitting the captains quarters, adding quite a bit of fine detail, but I've decided it would not likely be too visible anyway, so I'll keep it simple and move on. With what I have, I'll add rings, rig/secure these cabin cannons for sea, add a couple benches, and move on to finish the stern pieces, decks, and then the dreaded planking........


 
I may not get to this right away, but the intention is there....stay tuned.
 

176 years old;   my eyes +42 dioptres of presbyopia ; my hands shaking 37 times per second ... to everyone asking me what strange thing I try to touch, I would attempt to say with a hoarse voice:  " s H i p ... "

Hey, it's your choice as for as color, grain and texture, and what appearance you hope to achieve. I'd also prefer 3, though,....straighter grain, more consistent color. All seem too coarse to simulate scale wood grain, but that's an eternal curse to modellers, ain't it?
 
Brian

I'm relatively new to ship modeling, and lately have been cutting some pieces out from patterns for spiling, etc.  I started by using rubber cement to adhere the pattern to the wood, but didn't like the amount of mess and the residue left on the wood.  I've tried a few other glues, but they basically gave me the same issues.
 
My wife is a quilter, and suggested using freezer paper (she calls it the quilter's best friend):  draw the pattern on the plain side of the paper, put the waxy side down on the wood, and iron it onto the wood with a low-temperature iron.  It worked great!  Adheres to the wood and doesn't move around while working with it, then easily peals off with no residue on the wood.  A side benefit is that the pattern can be reused if desired, since the wax on the back doesn't come off on the wood.
 
Since this worked, I wondered how the paper would work in a printer.  I cut a piece to 8.5X11, flattened it by rolling it around a piece of pvc pipe a few times, then printed a test pattern on it in my inkjet printer (I don't think this would work in a laser printer because of the heat).  It worked great.  Now when I learn to use CAD and learn to loft frames using CAD, I'll be able to print out self-adhering patterns.
 
Frank

Ha! The midshipman has lost the log and reel in the stormy digital sea!
 
After a long hiatus due to "personal issues", I was about to get back to working on the Rattlesnake and then I find much has been lost in the software change. I thought I'd go ahead and repost some info/pictures before I actually got into it in earnest.
 
I had been wanting to build a replica of an 1870s Ohio River steamboat my ancestors owned and operated, found this site looking for tips, fell in love with some of the builds here, found a great deal on a Rattlesnake kit on eBay, and picked up this infernal shipmodelling disease.
 
I had kept my MSW Rattlesnake log photos in a separate folder on my computer so they're all set to be reproduced.
 
Here's the box picture of the Rattlesnake...

Handsome ain't she?
 
The metal parts provided for the transom, quarter lights ( I used to call these windows until I got a little nawdikal ejukashun), and other areas made me cringe, so I thought I'd replace them with wood or other appropriate medium. Here is the supplied transom decoration and window frames and the supplied transom base with the window area excised...

Here are the original pieces dry-fitted/taped.

The #12 bulkhead is located at the position of the quarter lights, and the horizontal piece, #22, cuts into the cabin space, so I will modify that area to add the quarter lights and open up the cabin to approximate its fullness, as I will be making the lights (windows) clear instead of the blue paper simulated glass.
 
Part of #12 cut away.

Pseudo-framing of transom....

Quarter light frames (very fragile at this point!) made and stern "bench" from #22 piece.... 

I think this shows the template for adding the structure/frame above the light frames (hey, forgive me, it's been a while....)

Here's the rough-shaped transom, balsa filler and the supplied beechwood pieces at the outer ends. The beech was surprisingly easy to shape; could have used it for the whole thing , as designed, without much heartache.

Most of the main deck planking done, with a scale Captain Clarke (hey! looks like John Paul Jones....)

Gunports and framing, fore- and quarterdeck supports, and fake bowsprit root in case that area is visible....

I had grandiose visions of outfitting the captains quarters, adding quite a bit of fine detail, but I've decided it would not likely be too visible anyway, so I'll keep it simple and move on. With what I have, I'll add rings, rig/secure these cabin cannons for sea, add a couple benches, and move on to finish the stern pieces, decks, and then the dreaded planking........


 
I may not get to this right away, but the intention is there....stay tuned.
 

CHAPTER 1
 
A New Stem
 
The very first thing to do was replace the stem. Because the original stem was part of the bulkhead-keel, it will have to be cut off at the rabbet line. Using the reduced Hahn plans, I made another copy of just the stem area using a regular copier on 8½ x 11” paper. Using that copy, I made a template which I rubber cemented to boxwood and cut out using an old Dremel Deluxe Moto-SH jig saw that I bought in the late 70’s for the Zwarte Zee kit I mentioned earlier. It’s not a great saw, but it’s the only jig saw I have. One day I will replace it.

David,
You'll enjoy it!
 
Brian,
I just feel like you: I already read them twice in French and I'm nearnly finished reading them in English... and there will be a twice soon! He is the Jane Austen of the sea and indeed it is sad that he passed away so soon... But there is always something to be gained in re-reading the series, and the more you make models, the more you actually understand the nautical terms, well... a bit more than Stephen hopefully!

I just finished reading this series of 20 novels and a published unfinished manuscript.
 
I'm saddened, despondent. depressed, in the doldrums, and heartbroken that this was the end of the series, that Mr. O'Brian passed before finishing the one, and that the series won't continue indefinitely.
 
Wonderful writing, characters you get to know in depth, some of which you emphasize with and even become concerned about their outcomes. Outstanding reading even if you're not a fan of historical novels, the Napoleonic era, or seagoing life.
 
Oh! Ship-modelling content! You'll find a wealth of information on ship handling, life on a sea-going vessel, and such that could be of use to detailng a model to make it come alive and add more character.
 
Your humble and obedient..........
 
Brian

Should get some new wood in a day or two for above-the-wales planking. Here's an interim update.
 
I can plank the counter with what I have, but wanted to make up the rudder to make sure of clearance. It's walnut built on a mahogany-ply pre-shaped base.
 

 
Acchh! It has a light layer in the middle of the ply. I thought of staining at first, but decided to cover it with some 0.5mm walnut.
 

 
Better, but not as seamless as I'd hoped. Will likely be painted whitish below the waterline anyway, unless my lower-hull planking miraculously comes out nearly flawless.
 
Planked the counter, but first dabbed some dark stain on the exposed light wood and ply inside the rudder opening (port?). Patched with filler the delaminated spots on the brittle mahogany-ply false transom.
 

 
To future Mami RS builders and maybe metal gunport users....
 
Looking back, I wish I had bent the upper and lower tabs on the metal ports inward a bit, to fit better the inward curve of the bulwark. A couple protude inward a little and I may have to do a little fussin' and finaglin' to get the inner planking to fit well. Something I DID do, now wishing I hadn't, was to taper the vertical 1.5x5 pieces alongside the ports, to fit the bulwark curve. Should have used bent pieces to fit, leaving them full thickness.
 

 
Cheers,
Brian
 
 
 
 

Hi David,
 
Try to use wood glue (PVA) when you can. Reasonable working time and a strong bond. I would suggest "medium" CA (5-15 sec) if you need something quciker on a spot that's, for example, difficult to clamp. I would reallyreallyreally avoid the "thin" CA (3-5 sec). It wicks to a great extent and may create an area that won't take finish like the surrouding areas not affected by the CA.
 
Brian

I'd recently aquired a copy of Seamanship in the Age of Sail by John Harland. Haven't had time to get deep into it yet, but thumbing through, I just happened to find this method of using the chains for steering. I'm sure there are other riggings possible.
 

 
With my Rattlesnake not using a wheel that might have its rigging damaged, I wonder if it might just be chocked, rather than having chains available.
 
Cheers,
Brian

This is the same technique as Daniel shows, in diagram form, Used to do bindings on shakuhachi (Japanese bamboo flutes)
 
http://www.shakuhachi.com/Y-BindingRepair.html
 
 
Regards,
Brian

This is the same technique as Daniel shows, in diagram form, Used to do bindings on shakuhachi (Japanese bamboo flutes)
 
http://www.shakuhachi.com/Y-BindingRepair.html
 
 
Regards,
Brian

Hi Ferit,
 
Something I apprciate seeing is the rope pulls for the port lids. It seems not many include this detail. I've enjoyed your build since I found it and it's one I always look for for updates.
 
Regards,
Brian

Hi Ferit,
 
Something I apprciate seeing is the rope pulls for the port lids. It seems not many include this detail. I've enjoyed your build since I found it and it's one I always look for for updates.
 
Regards,
Brian