JerseyCity Frankie

On the first question there is no tie in between the characters used to tell the story.
 
On the second it is not supposed to be historical fiction. It's trying to provide historical information with a fictional interpreter providing 'color'. It is certainly different to any of the standard approaches ever seen. I doubt you could quote it directly as it is never quite obvious which is which though he does give extensive foot notes so these could be used to track down the original if anyone ever wanted to re-use.
 
As a note of extra caution it uses secondary authors in the main text more than you would expect and direct quotes from secondary authors as opposed to referencing their arguments. In some cases (lists from James) it makes some sense (though I would prefer the list to appear and James to be footnoted) whereas in others the quote is direct. That is only because I prefer history to be the historians view and not regurgitated opinions from others (no matter how 'decent' the other is). Footnotes are Historians friends..
 
As an aside when I was finding that quote from Rodgers concerning the war of 1812 I also checked Latimer as I remembered one or both of them making an argument of that nature. I found it in both but was surprised that the words used were almost identical. Since Rodgers wrote three years earlier and Latimer references the relevant work in his bibliography I just used Rodgers but did wonder if Latimer realised he was essentially re-using Rodgers comment (without reference). Perhaps he agreed so deeply it was a co-incidence but it looks like the same re-written with slightly different words. Just a curiosity. Perhaps I missed the acknowledgement..
 
 
 

Just to start with, I have never built a wooden ship model. I use to build WWII model planes but that was way back in my early teen years. I had lots of fun with them  so I thought why not at least attempt to see if I could do a wooden ship model. 
After reading several articles about what would be an appropriate model for a beginner, I settled on the Glad Tidings Pinky Schooner from Model Shipways.  Because there have been a number of build logs done with this model, I thought this would be at least a model I might be able to complete.
I spent the first six months just putting together the hull and its masts. That just about did me in.  I didn't keep a daily/weekly build log .. I instead snap pictures all along the way.  So this build log will be of those pictures.  I hope some of these might come in handy for others out there trying to do their first model. Hopefully I'm using the right terminology for the different bits and pieces so that others can follow along and learn.
 

Just today with some time to continue with the sails

Still shaping the hull and adding the Keel-

The Sails cloth looks great for me, even the lines that simulate the sewing. It is only in one side though. I'll have to do the reverse side.

Thanks for your comment and visiting Robert O! More detail on the Bowsprit rigging and sail.

Figuring out the sequence to follow in order to ovoid difficulties when applying standing rigging.

After a long recess, I´ve decided to continue with my Scientific America. I used a black wire to hold the sails to the masts.
I've stained the deck with Minwax neutral.
I've used Model Shipways mahogany parts for gratings.
I've scratch built deck housing.

I cut out my first two channels (1/16” basswood) and dry fitted them.

Moved to Georgia!
 
Got distracted by real world problems! Finally getting back into this build.

Here we go!

Now, vertical board ship boats...

Rigging is finished!🤯
 
Still need to do the rope coils on the belaying points, but i'm happy it's finished. 

The first of the knot books arrived...

Recently I was looking for wooden belaying pins 10 mm long, but all of them were ugly and fat, not proportioned well at all. Someone had 11 mm brass ones looking OK, but it turned out they were out of stock at the moment.
So, I reluctantly decided to make my own.  I used bamboo skewers of appropriate thickness (from supermarkets) and prepared myself a brass former, following advice of Ed Tosti  here:
  He is making here sprockets for his wheel, but the principle is the same. First make a former from metal (I used a short piece of brass rod, which I drilled through on a lathe. Then I filed one side to an appropriate profile for my pins. Finally I inserted skewer into the hole and using only mini files, shaped the pin to an appropriate look. This method allows for fairly quick fabrication of belaying pins and for repetition of identical shapes, which is important.

Brass belaying pins in assorted sizes are available at various hobby sites if you don't want to turn them.  Saves a lot of lathe time doing a pile of fiddly bits.

For me, it’s when I finish the heavy work on the hull.  

I love detailing and fitting out the model.  I enjoy putting masts on the ship and rigging (including making the sails).
 
I’m terrible at the heavy framing and planking.  I’m still learning woodworking.
 
So, I personally consider the halfway point to be when I get the hull roughed out and ready to be detailed.
 

Where to start! I could mention specific kits or manufacturers but that's not my question! However, to highlight just a few examples of details, most kits have over-scale belaying pins; most kits of vessels carrying boats show the boats with over-scale scantlings, etc, etc.  What I'm really interested to know is what other members consider are the most accurate, particularly externally (far better to be positive than to be negative by slating one particular kit - I leave that to the reviewers!). I posted the question because a friend asked for a recommendation, but wanted a kit that matched the original as close as possible.

On to the ships`s stove.  The basic stove is provided as laser cut wood & went together quickly.  The best part is all 4 sides of the stove are covered with etched brass & fit perfectly.  some doors & lids are also provided. The handles were formed from brass wire & soldered in place.  After fitting all the brass parts it was painted flat black.  The chimney will be added later as it will have to go through a hole in the upper deck.  Too bad this little gem will be nearly invisible after the upper decks are in place.   Thanks for looking in.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Mark
 
 

My first effort - near finished. Thanks for your time, wisdom and warm welcome!