hamilton

Hi Augie:
 
Thanks for the visit! And sorry I haven't dropped by your Syren log for a while! I promise to dedicate some time to it tomorrow!
 
I'm used to homework - giving and receiving - I teach at a university so the concept is familiar! Bye for now
hamilton

Well you're certainly doing your homework....and then some!

Hi Hamilton, glad your books have arrived, now you have something to get your teeth into.
 
Regarding the Main Wales, personally I would go with Goodwin. There are plenty of contemporary models of sixth Rates and larger of that era with the distinctive double black Wales picked out, I think it sort of defines the period.
 
Goodwin does say in his book that the period was one of transition with old and new features being incorporated at the same time, and that the Blandford was unusual in some respects in her construction. This gives you some scope to show differences.
 
The Crowsfeet at 1:100 scale would be pretty fine, but I think you are right to attempt them, using the finest line you can get hold of.
0.1mm diameter is usually the smallest commerciallly available rigging line, but there may be other options. I would in any case drill the micro holes around the rims of the tops.
 
Look forward to seeing developments.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 
 

very neat job there. I think you will negate those little problems without too much difficulty. I like the fact you are adding to greyhound to enhance what is a very fine looking model despite its peculiarities.

I'm beginning to remember. Rather than the flimsy little supports supplied in the kit, I used a balsa wood filler and sanded to the required curve after fitting the two side pieces of the transom thereby using the curve of those pieces as a guide, then a little more filler attatched to frame 13 to support the angled planks, although I do recall having a little bit more space than you have in this area, but only by about a mm. It was a trial and error job that owed more to luck than judgement. It is a pig of a kit as you say but really is worth percevereing with it. 

I'm struggling to recall exactly how i completed the planking below the transom other than it being a real nightmare. I didn't take any photos of the area either so cant pull those out of the hat. I know I used some filler at some stage to give an additional surface area for a good contact. I 'll give my model a good study and get back to you on this one. I know I altered something to get everything to fit but exactly what I did requires some memory recall (gulp).   

hope these are ok. It took some doing and is far from perfect but not too bad a job considering.

However one chooses to tie the ratlines, I think, would be determined by the scale of the current project....but one should also be aware that the shrouds should be as taught as possible. Otherwise, any effort to complete the ratlines would be that much more difficult and almost impossible if they are too loose....don't ask how I know  ..........
 
JP

You are right. Just lay the tape straight over the hull without 'bending' it. The sides will stand out slightly, and you can get the right curvature by tracing the mounted 'plank'

I post this for people with experience to give some feedback.  I found that sometimes i could get the spiled part on my first try and sometimes i had to try more than once.  I think I discovered why.  When you put the clear tape with its edge parallel  to the edge of the planking line you will get the correct curve of the plank.  But, if you put the tape at an angle to allow it to lay flat and pretty,  you wont get the correct curvature. you will either have to adjust a lot with sandpaper or repeat the process.  The edge of the tape away from the planks should be a little ¨loose¨ when you put it on the hull.  If that edge is tight, or straight, you wont get the curvature you are looking for.  Can anybody confirm this?

Oh brother, something is not right and I am clueless.  At first I though perhaps the slots in those bulkheads were cut incorrectly but no, that wouldn't help.  I hope someone with more knowledge than I chimes in here.  You did well to post this question with photos.

Hi Hamilton, I'm trying to remember what I did to get round this problem. If memory serves me right I carried on with the build as if the two offending frames were correct. I got as far as trimming the fore and aft frames ready to accept the first planking. I then put temporary planks in 3 or 4 places along the hull but making no attempt to attatch the planks to the two incorrect frames. This gave me a rough idea on the amount of building up of the frames was needed. I used several pieces of 0.5 mm plank I had spare from a previous build to alter the frames, I then used some filler once the first planking had been put in place to make the line of the hull more even where there was a slight dip corresponding to the two offending frames. It was frustrating to do but I achieved a reasonable result. 

Coming to a model ship world near you soon.

I've got the seating of the bowsprit in my model wrong, but I really cant be bothered taking it out and re-seating it. You will have to reshape/remove part of the the keel to get it to fit correctly and it eventually sits flush with the modified keel and on top of the figurehead. I also purchase several other ships boats but none looked convincing so i returned to the metal one supplied. It is a very awkward model to work with. I found corels HMS Victory far easier to complete. The plans are full of descrepancies and even the picture on the box is markedly different than the plans are. I too have purchased lots of black rigging. When I build kits I try to use all what is supplied in the kit, I'm a builder who is lazy in that I really cant be bothered scratch building anything unless I break something or lose it. If I can help in any way feel free to ask but I have a sneaky feeling you wont need my help. It will drive you to drink copious ammounts of alcohol but thats one of the benefits of building HMS Greyhound. I'll follow with interest.

Continuation

Just a small update.  Have gotten started on fabricating the remaining yards.  All have now been cut from round dowels, tapered according to the plans (using the drill as 'poor man's lathe) and several of the center sections made octagon in shape using thin wood strips which were cut and beveled to give 8 simulated 'sides'.
 
The method is not as elegant as I've seen from those of you who are able to start with square stock for your yards.  But it's my first shot and I am not displeased.
 
I will now be adding cleats then we'll stain everything to see where we stand before adding the glitter (blocks, iron bands and footropes).
 

 

Shroads and ratlines now completed. I'll post some pics when I'm sober. 

Just a small update. Being a bit lazy lately I'm just playing with the cabin and sanding the hull to provide a nice smooth surface for second planking. 
 

 

 

Hello folks, google's cache still remembers my original HMS Fly log, so this is what I could scrape from it:
 
After HMS Race Horse by Sergal I decided to get a bit more serious and build HMS Fly using the wonderful kit by Chris Watton.
 
What I miss about kit presentations in general are detailed photos of their various parts, so I decided to make them. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The last one!
 
23-3-2012
 
She is finished and it's in the complete gallery.
Thanks for watching.
 
Sjors

Well, Harlequin, I never properly learned how to drink whiskey - though I know my way around a Tom Collins or a Manhattan....we'll see how bad it gets!
 
Augie - I have to say that I'm surprised with the low quality of this kit. I've built 3 Corel kits (the Brittany Sloop, the Flattie and the Toulonnaise) and I have the Bellona up on the shelf. The ones I've built were really top notch and the Bellona certainly is of very high quality all around. It seems as if the Greyhound was a bit of a rush-to-market or something - hastily put together and so rather sloppy. The illustrated instructions remind me of the booklet that came with the ME/Amati Bluenose I built last year - also vague and frustrating, though on a much less complicated build. If Corel beefed up the plans (adding at least 3 sheets - one separating out the hull profile/deck plans to give more construction details and showing the bow and stern; one for standing rigging and scale mast details; one for running rigging and spar details) this would be a great kit. The quality of the wood and fittings is up to the usual Corel standard. A bit more effort would make this a truly excellent kit....
 
Anyway, now that Harlequin has pointed out his attempts at using other ship's boats, I'm worried that the one I ordered won't work out....oh well! It's only $8 right? I can't allow myself to have ME on speed dial or I'd be building my boats out a cardboard box....
hamilton

Hamilton -  You've chosen what will prove to be a gorgeous subject.  I don't believe she was named Greyhound without reason.  I am looking forward to this build.
 
Sounds like you've taken the right approach in inspecting the kit and getting things sorted out in your mind.  I built the Corel HMS Victory cross section years ago and there were a few challenges but the overall quality was very good and the results just fine.  I'm sure with patience, your 'eye' for perfection and maybe an inquiry or two here on MSW you'll master the mystery of the belaying plan (or lack thereof!).
 
Just one comment on the plans.  I've run into this before myself.  Plans are subject to humidity changes over time.  If your kit is a few years old the plans could have either expanded or shrunken from the time they were printed.  Somewhere on them there should be a scale you can measure to see if you can determine this.  And if you lay them out nicely in your shop and let them sit a week or two they will generally stabilze to your local conditions.  Keep in mind your wood may be doing the same thing!
 
Best of luck on this one!

Hi Hamilton, yes this kit will frustrate and annoy, I have made several changes and i dont think they are historically accurate changes I have made but I can live with them. The cat rails are nowhere near the shape they need to be but I found bending them cold was the best method of obtaining the best shape. They did crack in areas but i filled the cracks with a little filler and painted over. Believe me I nearly launched this model against the nearest wall several times it is that maddening. But persist with it. The ships boat is not brilliant but after several attempts I have acheived a reasonable result. You can always spend more time than I did on the ships boat. If you look at my build you will be able to improve in many areas on yours, but I am reasonably satisfied at the result so far. Get several bottles of decent single malt whisky and you will produce a very fine if frustrating model. If I was unsure of anything I just went for it and if I didnt like the results I'd take it off and try again. The shrouds and ratlines have been on and off more times than a brides nightie. Good look and I look forward to your build.   

Hamilton,
Greyhound and Blandford were both built at Deptford d/y by the same master shipwright Richard Stacey. Both were commissioned in 1720.
There was very little difference in the as built dimensions of the two ships, Blandford being 1 foot longer.
Greyhound was broken up in 1741 and Blandford was sold in 1742.
We have touched on the rigging aspect of a sixth rate in a separate thread, but personally I would not continue to confuse myself  by trying to make sense of the Corel rigging plans, which probably contain many errors. Clear them from your mind and work from the Blandford book.
James Lees (Masting and Rigging of English ships of war 1625-1860) also includes a belaying plan for a 1719 establishment sixth rate in his book.
 
B.E.

I have discovered what seems to me to be a simple technique for making mast hoops. I say discovered because I have not seen mast hoops made this way, and when I had to make some, I used the materials at hand. I cane a chair now and then and have an ample supply of cane strands hanging among the rafters of my workshop (pic1264).  The material is a natural woody plant of the Rattan family. It's strength is along it's length which makes it very durable. It's woody characteristics make it great for holding stain, paint and glue. it is processed in different widths which makes it useful in many different scales. There is an inner surface and an outer surface. the outer surface is shiny and should be scuffed for good stain, paint and glue adhesion. If you have a friend that does caning or a local furniture repair/upholsterer shop nearby, it is a great place to grab a couple of five foot strands. They will last a lifetime of model making. I have not experimented posting photos on the new MSW yet, so not quite sure how this will come out.
 
Step 1: Soak a length of cane (depends upon diameter and quantity of hoops needed) in warm water to soften.
 
Step 2: Wrap cane around a dowel of appropriate diameter and clamp until dry. This will set a nice curl in the cane. Pics, 1256 and 1257.
 
Step 3: Wrap length of cane around finished mast hoop diameter so that it overlaps perhaps 1/4 to 1/3 of diameter. Glue and clamp until it sets. Pics, 1258 and 1259.
 
Step 4: After glue has dried. Sand/file to taper ends of cane.
 
Finished product comes out pretty realistic, using minimal material and effort. Hope this is of use.