hamilton

Both frames in frame set 2 have now been assembled and it remains only to mark/cut out notches for the gunport sills and the scupper. This was a challenging process with the cast toptimber of framer 2F, but in the end it was not quite as difficult as I feared it would be and I'm very happy with the results. I do want to take a bit of time to outline the process...
 
The first step was to transfer some reference marks from the disposition of frame drawing to the frame drawing, using tick strips to measure off and square these up. Horizontals were drawn across the frame drawing to ensure symmetry athwartships. I then clamped the frame components in place on the drawing and transferred the marks to the outside and inside edges of the toptimber.
 
I then cut a template from a printout of the dispotion of frame drawing - actually 2 to tack onto the outside and inside edges of the frame, being careful to orient them correctly! These were tacked with rubber cement and the areas to be cut down marked onto the frame piece. This was a little finicky since the disposition of frame drawing does not accout for the outward curvature of the frame itself, resulting in templates that are short compared to the toptimber piece itself. This was not too difficult to correct for, but required a lot of back and forthing from plans to part. The area to be cut was marked out on both inside and outside edges.
 
I then clamped the piece to a slab of 3/4" ply and, using a #11 blade stated gradually removing the wood by making a cut down to the line, slicing wood off carefull edgewise from the face of the piece to that cut and then using sanding block and file to clear out the excess material. I did a little bit at a time, following the gradual shallowing of the cut and then sanded the surface down smooth. 
 
To cut the other side, I glued a small strip of basswood of an appropriate thickness to the plywood slab to accomodate the cutaway I made previously and to straighten the piece so I could remove material on the other side using the same technique described above. This took a bit of time and care, but worked out ok in the end. And now I have my first properly cast toptimber! 
 
If I can get a bit of time tomorrow I'll notch the frame out for the elements described above and then raise the frames on the keel....fun times!
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling

Well done so far. I often find I dread certain making certain parts because I over-think the process. When it comes to actually making them, it usually goes better than I expected. Sounds like that was the case with your cast toptimbers.
 
Enjoy your vacation and safe travels!

A small update - not much time this past week for modelling, unfortunately, but I have a short break from work over the weekend, so hopefully I'll be able to make some progress. Today, I spent a very short time putting together a simple jig for taking vertical measurements - it's just the profile drawing adhered to a piece of 3/4" plywood with a batten clamped along the line marking the bottom of the keel. I made some tick strips out of card, but I think I will take a different approach to transferring these marks - I have a number of right angle plates that I made from 1/8" acrylic some time ago and the taller of these can be used to transfer vertical measures to the model - instead of using tick strips on the drawing, I will use 1/4" masking tape which can then be fixed to the right angle plate itself - perhaps a more stable way of transferring the measures, but we'll see how it goes - I'm going to try to mark and file out the notches for the sweep port sills and lintels this weekend using this method. 
hamilton

Frame set 3 is now complete and installed on the keel. Together, frame 2F and 3A define the gunport and I've also removed the tops of the toptimbers on 2A and 3F to open this port - the ends of the timbers still need some refining (and all frames need to be completed) before installing the gunport sills and completing the framing of this feature. The work is not perfect! But it has been a lot of fun! 
 
I had been dreading crafting the cast toptimber of frame 3A, but in the end (and given the experience of making 2F which has a more subtle cast aft) it was not that difficult. I made 4 templates from copies of the disposition of frame and fixed these to both inboard and outboard edges of each toptimber with rubber cement. I then marked the portion of the toptimber to be cut away, tested for symmetry and used the same method described above for 2F. In the end, this one ended up actually being a little more straightforward since 2F is cast in more of a subtle "S" curve, while this one is cast out from the bottom edge and the top part is more or less a straight run. The trickiest part was refining them for symmetry and this was less tricky than it was very exacting a slow going.
 
I've cut out all the components of frame set 4 as of this morning, and will start refining and assembling them over the next couple of days. We're heading out to the cabin for a couple of weeks of Gulf Island relaxation - beach combing, swimming, paddle boarding, reading and visiting with friends - a nice break from the city but I know I'll be excited to come back to the bench! I have a week more vacation when we return and then it's back to work - I'm hoping to have the framing done by the time work starts up again, but we'll see.....
 
Bye for now and enjoy the photos
hamilton

Frame set 3 is now complete and installed on the keel. Together, frame 2F and 3A define the gunport and I've also removed the tops of the toptimbers on 2A and 3F to open this port - the ends of the timbers still need some refining (and all frames need to be completed) before installing the gunport sills and completing the framing of this feature. The work is not perfect! But it has been a lot of fun! 
 
I had been dreading crafting the cast toptimber of frame 3A, but in the end (and given the experience of making 2F which has a more subtle cast aft) it was not that difficult. I made 4 templates from copies of the disposition of frame and fixed these to both inboard and outboard edges of each toptimber with rubber cement. I then marked the portion of the toptimber to be cut away, tested for symmetry and used the same method described above for 2F. In the end, this one ended up actually being a little more straightforward since 2F is cast in more of a subtle "S" curve, while this one is cast out from the bottom edge and the top part is more or less a straight run. The trickiest part was refining them for symmetry and this was less tricky than it was very exacting a slow going.
 
I've cut out all the components of frame set 4 as of this morning, and will start refining and assembling them over the next couple of days. We're heading out to the cabin for a couple of weeks of Gulf Island relaxation - beach combing, swimming, paddle boarding, reading and visiting with friends - a nice break from the city but I know I'll be excited to come back to the bench! I have a week more vacation when we return and then it's back to work - I'm hoping to have the framing done by the time work starts up again, but we'll see.....
 
Bye for now and enjoy the photos
hamilton

Frame set 3 is now complete and installed on the keel. Together, frame 2F and 3A define the gunport and I've also removed the tops of the toptimbers on 2A and 3F to open this port - the ends of the timbers still need some refining (and all frames need to be completed) before installing the gunport sills and completing the framing of this feature. The work is not perfect! But it has been a lot of fun! 
 
I had been dreading crafting the cast toptimber of frame 3A, but in the end (and given the experience of making 2F which has a more subtle cast aft) it was not that difficult. I made 4 templates from copies of the disposition of frame and fixed these to both inboard and outboard edges of each toptimber with rubber cement. I then marked the portion of the toptimber to be cut away, tested for symmetry and used the same method described above for 2F. In the end, this one ended up actually being a little more straightforward since 2F is cast in more of a subtle "S" curve, while this one is cast out from the bottom edge and the top part is more or less a straight run. The trickiest part was refining them for symmetry and this was less tricky than it was very exacting a slow going.
 
I've cut out all the components of frame set 4 as of this morning, and will start refining and assembling them over the next couple of days. We're heading out to the cabin for a couple of weeks of Gulf Island relaxation - beach combing, swimming, paddle boarding, reading and visiting with friends - a nice break from the city but I know I'll be excited to come back to the bench! I have a week more vacation when we return and then it's back to work - I'm hoping to have the framing done by the time work starts up again, but we'll see.....
 
Bye for now and enjoy the photos
hamilton

Frame set 3 is now complete and installed on the keel. Together, frame 2F and 3A define the gunport and I've also removed the tops of the toptimbers on 2A and 3F to open this port - the ends of the timbers still need some refining (and all frames need to be completed) before installing the gunport sills and completing the framing of this feature. The work is not perfect! But it has been a lot of fun! 
 
I had been dreading crafting the cast toptimber of frame 3A, but in the end (and given the experience of making 2F which has a more subtle cast aft) it was not that difficult. I made 4 templates from copies of the disposition of frame and fixed these to both inboard and outboard edges of each toptimber with rubber cement. I then marked the portion of the toptimber to be cut away, tested for symmetry and used the same method described above for 2F. In the end, this one ended up actually being a little more straightforward since 2F is cast in more of a subtle "S" curve, while this one is cast out from the bottom edge and the top part is more or less a straight run. The trickiest part was refining them for symmetry and this was less tricky than it was very exacting a slow going.
 
I've cut out all the components of frame set 4 as of this morning, and will start refining and assembling them over the next couple of days. We're heading out to the cabin for a couple of weeks of Gulf Island relaxation - beach combing, swimming, paddle boarding, reading and visiting with friends - a nice break from the city but I know I'll be excited to come back to the bench! I have a week more vacation when we return and then it's back to work - I'm hoping to have the framing done by the time work starts up again, but we'll see.....
 
Bye for now and enjoy the photos
hamilton

Frame set 3 is now complete and installed on the keel. Together, frame 2F and 3A define the gunport and I've also removed the tops of the toptimbers on 2A and 3F to open this port - the ends of the timbers still need some refining (and all frames need to be completed) before installing the gunport sills and completing the framing of this feature. The work is not perfect! But it has been a lot of fun! 
 
I had been dreading crafting the cast toptimber of frame 3A, but in the end (and given the experience of making 2F which has a more subtle cast aft) it was not that difficult. I made 4 templates from copies of the disposition of frame and fixed these to both inboard and outboard edges of each toptimber with rubber cement. I then marked the portion of the toptimber to be cut away, tested for symmetry and used the same method described above for 2F. In the end, this one ended up actually being a little more straightforward since 2F is cast in more of a subtle "S" curve, while this one is cast out from the bottom edge and the top part is more or less a straight run. The trickiest part was refining them for symmetry and this was less tricky than it was very exacting a slow going.
 
I've cut out all the components of frame set 4 as of this morning, and will start refining and assembling them over the next couple of days. We're heading out to the cabin for a couple of weeks of Gulf Island relaxation - beach combing, swimming, paddle boarding, reading and visiting with friends - a nice break from the city but I know I'll be excited to come back to the bench! I have a week more vacation when we return and then it's back to work - I'm hoping to have the framing done by the time work starts up again, but we'll see.....
 
Bye for now and enjoy the photos
hamilton

Frame set 2 is now complete and raised on the keel. Frame 2 aft is shortened in line with the gunport and also contains the aft notch for the scupper block (to be added later), so reference lines were drawn for these and the frame was notched out for the scupper block. 
 
I added a batten across the aft face of frame 2F at the level of the lower edge of the lower gunport sill and used this to align frame 2A. It will also be useful for bracing the frames when the time comes to remove the upper part of the toptimber to open up the gunport. I won't do this until after I've raised frame 3F, since this one is subject to the same treatment. 
 
One photo below shows the notches for the scupper block - the photo makes the it seem out of alignment, but I promise you it is not....
 
Altogether this is a very fun build. I have been really intimidated by the framing process - having observed others do it so well....but it is a really fun challenge so far - though maybe talk to me when it comes to the deck framing, which seems an even trickier business than this!
 
Bye for now
hamilton

Thanks guys😀
 
While messing around with painting all the detail on the head rails, etc. I also manged to get the stern decoration painted.
 
I combined the prototype and brunnels schemes adding the red in the center to the blue and gold of the prototype.
 
There are probably a few areas that need one more round of touch-up but that will have to wait until I am sure the gold is dry and the head details are done.

Log #96: Concluding Thoughts
After 2 years, 11 months and 20 days, Alert is finally finished.
 
Overall, looking back at the experience I can say that as a beginner I would wholeheartedly recommend the Vanguard Alert kit. It is easy to follow along with and you can build a great model out of the box while also having scope to make small improvements if you desire.
 
The first picture I took of alert back on August 3, 2021

 
As a general rule, I stuck pretty close to the kit with this build making small improvements here and there where I felt comfortable. Most of the changes were made with the repurposing of kit parts or random household items I had on hand and I would say any beginner with a bit of patience should be able to do a similar level of kitbashing. The largest deviations were the replacement of the rope (courtesy of @BenD) and my decision to throw caution to the wind and attempt to replicate the Marshall painting decorations.
 
The Marshall painting of Alert

 
I would say I both overestimated and underestimated how hard building a model ship would be. Some parts turned out better than I had hoped while others fell short. However, as a learning experience I have no complaints. In the end I think it is fair to say that I achieved a unique look that I am proud of and I look forward to doing better on the next model.
 
I want to take a moment to thank some people without whom I would never have been able to reach the finish line.
 
@chris watton - I have long desired to make a ship model, but had no idea how I would even go about learning how to do such a thing. Chris’ excellent model made it possible for me to enter into what is a fairly overwhelming hobby in a way that I was able to slowly build the skills necessary to actually complete it. @Blue Ensign - BE’s Alert log was my second manual. I don’t know how many times I read it through, but it is safe to say that almost all of the changes and additions I made to the build had their inspiration in BE’s log. This model would be significantly worse had his log not been there for me to follow along with. All other Alert Build logs - I have read every word of each of them at least once and have taken lessons and inspiration from all of them. MSW - I couldn’t possibly name all of the people who made critical contributions at one time or another. Your many suggestions made the model better and It is highly likely that without all your encouragement I wouldn’t have made it to the finish line.  
So without further ado, here are some pictures of the finished model:

Frame set 2 is now complete and raised on the keel. Frame 2 aft is shortened in line with the gunport and also contains the aft notch for the scupper block (to be added later), so reference lines were drawn for these and the frame was notched out for the scupper block. 
 
I added a batten across the aft face of frame 2F at the level of the lower edge of the lower gunport sill and used this to align frame 2A. It will also be useful for bracing the frames when the time comes to remove the upper part of the toptimber to open up the gunport. I won't do this until after I've raised frame 3F, since this one is subject to the same treatment. 
 
One photo below shows the notches for the scupper block - the photo makes the it seem out of alignment, but I promise you it is not....
 
Altogether this is a very fun build. I have been really intimidated by the framing process - having observed others do it so well....but it is a really fun challenge so far - though maybe talk to me when it comes to the deck framing, which seems an even trickier business than this!
 
Bye for now
hamilton

Frame set 2 is now complete and raised on the keel. Frame 2 aft is shortened in line with the gunport and also contains the aft notch for the scupper block (to be added later), so reference lines were drawn for these and the frame was notched out for the scupper block. 
 
I added a batten across the aft face of frame 2F at the level of the lower edge of the lower gunport sill and used this to align frame 2A. It will also be useful for bracing the frames when the time comes to remove the upper part of the toptimber to open up the gunport. I won't do this until after I've raised frame 3F, since this one is subject to the same treatment. 
 
One photo below shows the notches for the scupper block - the photo makes the it seem out of alignment, but I promise you it is not....
 
Altogether this is a very fun build. I have been really intimidated by the framing process - having observed others do it so well....but it is a really fun challenge so far - though maybe talk to me when it comes to the deck framing, which seems an even trickier business than this!
 
Bye for now
hamilton

Frame set 2 is now complete and raised on the keel. Frame 2 aft is shortened in line with the gunport and also contains the aft notch for the scupper block (to be added later), so reference lines were drawn for these and the frame was notched out for the scupper block. 
 
I added a batten across the aft face of frame 2F at the level of the lower edge of the lower gunport sill and used this to align frame 2A. It will also be useful for bracing the frames when the time comes to remove the upper part of the toptimber to open up the gunport. I won't do this until after I've raised frame 3F, since this one is subject to the same treatment. 
 
One photo below shows the notches for the scupper block - the photo makes the it seem out of alignment, but I promise you it is not....
 
Altogether this is a very fun build. I have been really intimidated by the framing process - having observed others do it so well....but it is a really fun challenge so far - though maybe talk to me when it comes to the deck framing, which seems an even trickier business than this!
 
Bye for now
hamilton

Frame set 2 is now complete and raised on the keel. Frame 2 aft is shortened in line with the gunport and also contains the aft notch for the scupper block (to be added later), so reference lines were drawn for these and the frame was notched out for the scupper block. 
 
I added a batten across the aft face of frame 2F at the level of the lower edge of the lower gunport sill and used this to align frame 2A. It will also be useful for bracing the frames when the time comes to remove the upper part of the toptimber to open up the gunport. I won't do this until after I've raised frame 3F, since this one is subject to the same treatment. 
 
One photo below shows the notches for the scupper block - the photo makes the it seem out of alignment, but I promise you it is not....
 
Altogether this is a very fun build. I have been really intimidated by the framing process - having observed others do it so well....but it is a really fun challenge so far - though maybe talk to me when it comes to the deck framing, which seems an even trickier business than this!
 
Bye for now
hamilton

A question for @druxey if you have a moment.....
 
The scupper blocks that are inset between frames 3F and 3A and between frames 4A and 5F - I'm assuming that these should stand proud of the outboard edge of the frames to allow them to be flush with the main wale....but how are the inboard sides treated? I'm guessing that the pump dale scupper inboard will be covered by the pump dale itself, but how about the "regular" )(not sure how to designate this) scupper? This is a long way off in the build, but working on frame set 3 has put it in my mind.....
hamilton
 

Both frames in frame set 2 have now been assembled and it remains only to mark/cut out notches for the gunport sills and the scupper. This was a challenging process with the cast toptimber of framer 2F, but in the end it was not quite as difficult as I feared it would be and I'm very happy with the results. I do want to take a bit of time to outline the process...
 
The first step was to transfer some reference marks from the disposition of frame drawing to the frame drawing, using tick strips to measure off and square these up. Horizontals were drawn across the frame drawing to ensure symmetry athwartships. I then clamped the frame components in place on the drawing and transferred the marks to the outside and inside edges of the toptimber.
 
I then cut a template from a printout of the dispotion of frame drawing - actually 2 to tack onto the outside and inside edges of the frame, being careful to orient them correctly! These were tacked with rubber cement and the areas to be cut down marked onto the frame piece. This was a little finicky since the disposition of frame drawing does not accout for the outward curvature of the frame itself, resulting in templates that are short compared to the toptimber piece itself. This was not too difficult to correct for, but required a lot of back and forthing from plans to part. The area to be cut was marked out on both inside and outside edges.
 
I then clamped the piece to a slab of 3/4" ply and, using a #11 blade stated gradually removing the wood by making a cut down to the line, slicing wood off carefull edgewise from the face of the piece to that cut and then using sanding block and file to clear out the excess material. I did a little bit at a time, following the gradual shallowing of the cut and then sanded the surface down smooth. 
 
To cut the other side, I glued a small strip of basswood of an appropriate thickness to the plywood slab to accomodate the cutaway I made previously and to straighten the piece so I could remove material on the other side using the same technique described above. This took a bit of time and care, but worked out ok in the end. And now I have my first properly cast toptimber! 
 
If I can get a bit of time tomorrow I'll notch the frame out for the elements described above and then raise the frames on the keel....fun times!
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling

Both frames in frame set 2 have now been assembled and it remains only to mark/cut out notches for the gunport sills and the scupper. This was a challenging process with the cast toptimber of framer 2F, but in the end it was not quite as difficult as I feared it would be and I'm very happy with the results. I do want to take a bit of time to outline the process...
 
The first step was to transfer some reference marks from the disposition of frame drawing to the frame drawing, using tick strips to measure off and square these up. Horizontals were drawn across the frame drawing to ensure symmetry athwartships. I then clamped the frame components in place on the drawing and transferred the marks to the outside and inside edges of the toptimber.
 
I then cut a template from a printout of the dispotion of frame drawing - actually 2 to tack onto the outside and inside edges of the frame, being careful to orient them correctly! These were tacked with rubber cement and the areas to be cut down marked onto the frame piece. This was a little finicky since the disposition of frame drawing does not accout for the outward curvature of the frame itself, resulting in templates that are short compared to the toptimber piece itself. This was not too difficult to correct for, but required a lot of back and forthing from plans to part. The area to be cut was marked out on both inside and outside edges.
 
I then clamped the piece to a slab of 3/4" ply and, using a #11 blade stated gradually removing the wood by making a cut down to the line, slicing wood off carefull edgewise from the face of the piece to that cut and then using sanding block and file to clear out the excess material. I did a little bit at a time, following the gradual shallowing of the cut and then sanded the surface down smooth. 
 
To cut the other side, I glued a small strip of basswood of an appropriate thickness to the plywood slab to accomodate the cutaway I made previously and to straighten the piece so I could remove material on the other side using the same technique described above. This took a bit of time and care, but worked out ok in the end. And now I have my first properly cast toptimber! 
 
If I can get a bit of time tomorrow I'll notch the frame out for the elements described above and then raise the frames on the keel....fun times!
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling

It's hard to write and wipe the drool off my chin at the same time! Saving my shekels now.....
hamilton

Both frames in frame set 2 have now been assembled and it remains only to mark/cut out notches for the gunport sills and the scupper. This was a challenging process with the cast toptimber of framer 2F, but in the end it was not quite as difficult as I feared it would be and I'm very happy with the results. I do want to take a bit of time to outline the process...
 
The first step was to transfer some reference marks from the disposition of frame drawing to the frame drawing, using tick strips to measure off and square these up. Horizontals were drawn across the frame drawing to ensure symmetry athwartships. I then clamped the frame components in place on the drawing and transferred the marks to the outside and inside edges of the toptimber.
 
I then cut a template from a printout of the dispotion of frame drawing - actually 2 to tack onto the outside and inside edges of the frame, being careful to orient them correctly! These were tacked with rubber cement and the areas to be cut down marked onto the frame piece. This was a little finicky since the disposition of frame drawing does not accout for the outward curvature of the frame itself, resulting in templates that are short compared to the toptimber piece itself. This was not too difficult to correct for, but required a lot of back and forthing from plans to part. The area to be cut was marked out on both inside and outside edges.
 
I then clamped the piece to a slab of 3/4" ply and, using a #11 blade stated gradually removing the wood by making a cut down to the line, slicing wood off carefull edgewise from the face of the piece to that cut and then using sanding block and file to clear out the excess material. I did a little bit at a time, following the gradual shallowing of the cut and then sanded the surface down smooth. 
 
To cut the other side, I glued a small strip of basswood of an appropriate thickness to the plywood slab to accomodate the cutaway I made previously and to straighten the piece so I could remove material on the other side using the same technique described above. This took a bit of time and care, but worked out ok in the end. And now I have my first properly cast toptimber! 
 
If I can get a bit of time tomorrow I'll notch the frame out for the elements described above and then raise the frames on the keel....fun times!
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling

Both frames in frame set 2 have now been assembled and it remains only to mark/cut out notches for the gunport sills and the scupper. This was a challenging process with the cast toptimber of framer 2F, but in the end it was not quite as difficult as I feared it would be and I'm very happy with the results. I do want to take a bit of time to outline the process...
 
The first step was to transfer some reference marks from the disposition of frame drawing to the frame drawing, using tick strips to measure off and square these up. Horizontals were drawn across the frame drawing to ensure symmetry athwartships. I then clamped the frame components in place on the drawing and transferred the marks to the outside and inside edges of the toptimber.
 
I then cut a template from a printout of the dispotion of frame drawing - actually 2 to tack onto the outside and inside edges of the frame, being careful to orient them correctly! These were tacked with rubber cement and the areas to be cut down marked onto the frame piece. This was a little finicky since the disposition of frame drawing does not accout for the outward curvature of the frame itself, resulting in templates that are short compared to the toptimber piece itself. This was not too difficult to correct for, but required a lot of back and forthing from plans to part. The area to be cut was marked out on both inside and outside edges.
 
I then clamped the piece to a slab of 3/4" ply and, using a #11 blade stated gradually removing the wood by making a cut down to the line, slicing wood off carefull edgewise from the face of the piece to that cut and then using sanding block and file to clear out the excess material. I did a little bit at a time, following the gradual shallowing of the cut and then sanded the surface down smooth. 
 
To cut the other side, I glued a small strip of basswood of an appropriate thickness to the plywood slab to accomodate the cutaway I made previously and to straighten the piece so I could remove material on the other side using the same technique described above. This took a bit of time and care, but worked out ok in the end. And now I have my first properly cast toptimber! 
 
If I can get a bit of time tomorrow I'll notch the frame out for the elements described above and then raise the frames on the keel....fun times!
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling

Both frames in frame set 2 have now been assembled and it remains only to mark/cut out notches for the gunport sills and the scupper. This was a challenging process with the cast toptimber of framer 2F, but in the end it was not quite as difficult as I feared it would be and I'm very happy with the results. I do want to take a bit of time to outline the process...
 
The first step was to transfer some reference marks from the disposition of frame drawing to the frame drawing, using tick strips to measure off and square these up. Horizontals were drawn across the frame drawing to ensure symmetry athwartships. I then clamped the frame components in place on the drawing and transferred the marks to the outside and inside edges of the toptimber.
 
I then cut a template from a printout of the dispotion of frame drawing - actually 2 to tack onto the outside and inside edges of the frame, being careful to orient them correctly! These were tacked with rubber cement and the areas to be cut down marked onto the frame piece. This was a little finicky since the disposition of frame drawing does not accout for the outward curvature of the frame itself, resulting in templates that are short compared to the toptimber piece itself. This was not too difficult to correct for, but required a lot of back and forthing from plans to part. The area to be cut was marked out on both inside and outside edges.
 
I then clamped the piece to a slab of 3/4" ply and, using a #11 blade stated gradually removing the wood by making a cut down to the line, slicing wood off carefull edgewise from the face of the piece to that cut and then using sanding block and file to clear out the excess material. I did a little bit at a time, following the gradual shallowing of the cut and then sanded the surface down smooth. 
 
To cut the other side, I glued a small strip of basswood of an appropriate thickness to the plywood slab to accomodate the cutaway I made previously and to straighten the piece so I could remove material on the other side using the same technique described above. This took a bit of time and care, but worked out ok in the end. And now I have my first properly cast toptimber! 
 
If I can get a bit of time tomorrow I'll notch the frame out for the elements described above and then raise the frames on the keel....fun times!
 
Enjoy the photos and happy modelling

It's hard to write and wipe the drool off my chin at the same time! Saving my shekels now.....
hamilton

It's hard to write and wipe the drool off my chin at the same time! Saving my shekels now.....
hamilton

It's hard to write and wipe the drool off my chin at the same time! Saving my shekels now.....
hamilton