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GrandpaPhil

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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. The only drawback to the posterboard is that I am having to double it in order to build up to the 1mm thickness that Ab mentioned in his tutorial. But, so far so good. I traced the deck camber from Zu Monfeld and enlarged it to make a template which I transferred to the bulkheads. I’m currently in the process of doubling the bulkheads below the main deck to gain more area to glue to.
  2. Next, I’m going to trace the deck lines, including camber from Wolfram Zu Mondfeld’s Historic Ship Models, apply it to the model and cut the deck plates before dry assembling the frame.
  3. 23 bulkheads, 1 transom and a keel-plate with built in rabbets. Note, they are all currently being flattened under a good part of my reference library.
  4. The Victory is on temporary hold while I build the Prince de Neufchatel from Chapelle plans. I’ll be back shortly.
  5. I’m using Ab Hoving’s tutorial. I’ve never built from scratch before, so we’ll see how this goes. Here’s the first two bulkheads: Just as a side note, I’m doubling everything for more strength.
  6. I’m taking a break from the Victory and building the Prince de Neufchatel from plans in American Sailing Ships by Howard I. Chapelle. So far I’ve traced the hull lines and resized them to 1/72 scale.
  7. Thank you! It’s starting to patina on its own, even under the sealant. I’m just going to let it age on its own.
  8. What’s the best way to do copper cladding on a card model? I've copper cladded a wood model before with copper tape. But, I'm not sure if that would be the best way for a card model. I am thinking about building the Prince de Neufchatel in card, from Chapelle plans (I've been systematically buying all of his books).
  9. My top 4 are my X-Acto knife with a #11 blade, a pin-vise, a steel rule and a razor saw.
  10. The reason for the multipart frames is that the grain of the wood will cause problems if you try to make them out of one piece. That’s also why they overlap. You’ll lose a lot of strength if you try to make one piece frames.
  11. I agree with Jorge. You are doing well. Don’t get discouraged. The cant frames are difficult to make. I have never built POF. I’m familiar with the theory, but I’ve never done it. I would glue the pattern with the green and black to both sides and use that set your bevels. For the aft cant frames, the black should be your guide for the forward side of the bevels and the green should be your guide for the aft side of the bevels.
  12. It's a 3 dimensional picture because the cant frames aren't square. The green lines are the aft part of the aft cant frames and the black lines are the forward part of the aft cant frames. They are there so you can cut the bevel on the frames. Hopefully that helps.
  13. Still working on my carving. I’m having fun with it. I’ll get back to the Victory shortly.
  14. You did very well. I wouldn’t have know that it was card unless you had told us. Very nicely done!
  15. Personally, I just buy the minwax wood filler. I’ve never had a problem with it. I usually take a piece of whatever I’m matching into the hardware store with me. I can usually match the color well enough that once sealer is applied, no one will notice the filler.
  16. Welcome aboard! The Phantom is an excellent starter kit. I too, had borderline zero woodworking skills when I started in the hobby. You’ll pick them up as you go.
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