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GrandpaPhil

NRG Member
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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. I’m currently gathering information while finishing my build of the Victory. This will be my first scratch build. I’m going to build the Triton in plank on bulkhead fashion, because I am familiar with it. I am looking forward to starting the Triton.
  2. I would very much like to see a kit developed of some of the early US Navy ships of the line such as the Ohio or the Pennsylvania. Perhaps in 1/72 scale. Perhaps these could be made of plywood framing with basswood for the other hull woodwork and spruce dowels for the masting and rigging. These carvings and other non wood fittings could be done in resin or cast metal for mass production. I could see it retailing for between $750 to $1000.
  3. First band on the second side is now on. I just clear coated it. It’s coming along nicely .
  4. Thanks for the welcome! I’m looking forward to learning from everyone here!
  5. First band on, on one side. This is the first time that I have ever coppered a hull. I'm still ironing out the wrinkles, so to speak.
  6. Thanks guys, much appreciated
  7. What exactly constitutes fighting sails for the British? In nearly every old painting depicting a sea battle, the ships participating had the main sails furled with the others out. I’m asking because I want to build my HMS Victory as she would appear in battle. Thanks in advance.
  8. I started on the copper hull plating this morning! It’s been a learning curve, but I’m getting it! I’ll have pictures up once I make some significant progress.
  9. When I need to make plastic resin or metal models look like wood, I paint it dark brown and then drybrush in successive shades of lighter brown (less paint each shade) until I get to either a yellow ochre or ivory color depending on what I’m trying to make the part look like.
  10. Speaking of the blunt bow on the Endeavour, don't do what I did on my Endeavour (Mamoli 1:100) build. I didn't use filler pieces in the bow, like most planking guides suggest. Make sure you do. It will make your life much easier. It screwed my bow up badly and caused me much filling and sanding, to make the second layer of planking go on right.
  11. Quick question for everyone. In most of the paintings that I have seen of naval battles, the lower sails on the main and foremasts are shown furled, with all others out. Is this correct for a sailing ship in combat, and are there any others that I would need to have furled, or not, to model the Victory in combat? Thanks in advance.
  12. Very cool concept! Excellent execution! A Maori War Canoe is a very neat subject! Very well done!
  13. Hi, I'm Phil. I'm about ten months into my build. I've never done a ship of the line before, so this is a learning experience. I chose to build the HMS Victory because I wanted to do a ship of the line. I bought it off of E-Bay on an auction. The kit dates back from 1991. I've had a few difficulties due to the age of the wood and my relative inexperience (compared to most of you guys) in wooden ship modelling. I am very patient. I am very stubborn. I have lots of experience with other types of models to draw from. I have finished the rough work on the hull. Both layers of planking are on. The stern and quarter galleries are built and painted. I have the base color scheme painted on. I am going to be coppering the bottom of the hull. I have 3/16" copper tape, a pounce wheel and Gene Bodnar's article on making copper plates using self adhesive copper tape (thank you very much, Gene, for writing that, as well as the other articles that you have written), that I pulled off of this website. I plan on making very good use of all three . Here's where I'm at right now:
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