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GrandpaPhil

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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. Caprails are on! I have a few touch ups to do, to fix paint damage, but I’m making progress!
  2. One fitted underdeck. It’s a lot straighter than it looks in the picture. Time to plank it, with the wood grain contact paper, and paint it.
  3. Port sills are green. Touch ups are done. Now, the Prince de Neufchatel needs a deck. If you will notice, I waited until after I painted the bulwarks before I made the deck. This is so I didn’t have to mask anything to paint the bulwarks, Since this is all card stock (read poster board and contact paper), I’m going to dry fit the deck, pull it back off, plank it and paint it before permanently installing it. Then I will make the rudder and install that.
  4. Thank you very much for the comments and the likes! I added the pinstripes and painted the insides of the bulwarks green. One of the pinstripes is a little crooked because I followed the wales. I couldn’t find the location for the wales in the plans, so I eyeballed it from pictures of other models. I’m using one of the Chapelle plans out of his books (Plate V in The History Of American Sailing Ships between pages 133 and 134) as my primary resource, and am still learning how to interpret the drawings. The sail and rigging plan are on page 147 with an isometric picture on page 151. The funny thing is that I just figured out exactly where the wales should have gone and they’re a quarter inch too low. That’s part of the learning process. Using these sets of plans is a steep learning curve, but I’m getting it.
  5. I painted the stripe across the gunports. There is a khaki pinstripe along the top of the wales, on the Smithsonian’s model, that I will add tomorrow, after the paint dries overnight. About the same time, I intend to paint the insides of the bulwarks.
  6. You’re welcome Mark. Under the framing and planking section of the article database, there’s a great article by Gene Bodnar (who is a master ship modeler) on copper sheathing a hull. I strongly recommend it. I read it several times before I attempted to copper Victory’s hull.
  7. I had to cut more planking strips. I made enough for the deck, too. The insides of the bulwarks are now planked. Time to seal them and paint them.
  8. I planked the inside of the port bulwark. It looks much better now. After I get the starboard side done, I’ll seal both bulwarks and paint them dark green like the Smithsonian’s model.
  9. Thank you, Mark. I cut the tape in 4 1/2” pieces and marked the plates, 3/4” apart, with a pounce wheel, which simulates the nails securing the plates to the hull. I did cut the individual plates apart where I needed to in order to follow the curves around the hull. There is only a single band of plating, due to the small size of the ship. Victory had 3, which is part of what took me so long when coppering it. This one went so much better.
  10. I cut out the gunports and sweep ports on the port side. I’m getting used to the bulwarks being spongy because they are made of pulp board. If I ever build another card model of a ship with guns, I will precut the sections with gunports. Lessons learned.
  11. That went well. I have now coppered two hulls. Note to self, always buy new copper tape, it works infinitely better, lol.
  12. One side is coppered. I used copper tape, a pounce wheel, an X-Acto knife, and a ruler. At 1/72 scale, a copper plate comes out to about 3/8” by 3/4”. This is making coppering the Prince de Neufchatel much easier than the Victory.
  13. I only planked down to the waterline because I am using contact paper for my second planking and the hull is going to be coppered below the waterline. Unlike a conventional second planking, the contact paper doesn’t add any thickness to the hull, so there is no reason to plank all the way down. I just sealed the hull in preparation for painting. I am going to base coat it black above the waterline. After it dries, I will copper the hull below the waterline. I am going to use copper tape and a pounce wheel, just like I did on the Victory.
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