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    Derbyshire UK

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  1. The coppering looks great there Sir, only a few more to go!
  2. I agree, you will end up with a much better looking boat replacing the dirty grey metal with wood. You are doing well there.
  3. Nice work on the coppering there Sir, she's looking good. Just a thought on the square punch; you could make one out of pieces of razor blade stuck around a block of wood.....
  4. I just had a quick look through my instructions and I think you are talking about part 11? If so then yes it is supposed to be sanded to match the shape of frame 10 to which it is attached. Hope this helps.
  5. One of my all time favourite aircraft so will follow along. Are you going to attempt the "classic" aircraft wheel bulge? its something I could never achieve. Good luck.
  6. I agree with them two 👆, its looking much better, keep at it! Good to see you kept the six bands on the barrels too, not reduced them to four like some people...…. 🤔
  7. Going by what you said on page 1; ...I think in this case, and probably others to come, you had already made this decision before you opened the box! For me, I don't know about others, but if I am faced with a "should I use the kit part or make my own?" choice then its important that I at least try. I know from previous experience there is not much worse than looking at a completed model thinking "if only I'd have tried, If only I'd made the effort". Plus if I have to learn 16/17th century rigging from scratch, you can make 100 lids - misery loves company! 🤣🤣
  8. Congratulations, Peter, that is a wonderful model, a true masterpiece. Thank you, Sir, for sharing this amazing work with us, You have shown me a model to aspire to. And thank you for all the tips and ideas your model has given me for my own build. Fantastic, just fantastic!
  9. Personally I wouldn't bother with a needle threader, you end up having to pull twice the thickness of thread through the hole. Just put some CA on the end of the thread - about 1cm - let it dry and cut the tip to a point. Are you using the correct thread for the blocks? It looks a little thick- more like the thread meant for the standing rigging.
  10. I think that is a very good idea Matt. Have you checked out the planking tutorials in the articles database (at the top of the page)? I remember that I tried to do the first layer of planking as if it were the final layer. You will have to taper etc the final layer so you may as well get in some practise with the first layer! I got myself into the mindset of taking my time and working on each plank until I was satisfied with each one, there were days when I only managed one plank one each side per day. I know what it's like to pull apart something you have already made, but it will be worth it! Good luck n happy planking!😁
  11. Thank you for the compliments, Mark, I am pleased with how the stem has turned out. I have kept putting off making it out of fear that it wouldn't look right - I'm glad it's finally done. I just have to attach it to the hull strongly enough to withstand any force from the hull planking...……. Took me all afternoon to think that up 😎
  12. So I managed to illicit permission from the Admiral to open the shipyard for a few hours before I return to work tomorrow…………… I continued with the stem, and made the third/lower piece and cut the scarf joint on the keel; Once I was happy with the fit to the hull I glued the stem pieces together, I didn’t use any colour in the glue this time - I think it works better without. When the glue had dried I gave the stem a preliminary scrape. I also made an end cap for the top of the sternpost; I used the flat sanding disk that I had made previously for the dremel and shaped the front of the stem. I kept in mind that the Vivacia not only sails on the ocean but was also designed to travel upriver, so I made the stem bulge slightly at the bottom - strength and protection against rocks and the riverbed. There will also be a false keel added later. The stem will be covered in sealer and sanded - I am going to dilute the sealer to see if I can get it to penetrate the wood better. Gratuitous “dry fit on the hull” shot; In between gluing the stem I carried on with the transom planking; As you can see I wanted the lower transom planking to be at an angle. I wasn’t sure what the angle should be, so I used this, I attached the sternpost (with rubber bands - no glue - so that it can be removed to allow the transom planking to be scraped/sealed/sanded) and finished the planking; Captain Kennet, King of the blah blah etc, came out to inspect the transom; It struck me that this pic shows very well the “relative size” of this ship. I did mention to the Captain he had a noticeable list to starboard, apparently it’s to compensate for the excess of port imbibed the night before…… Till next time, Have Fun! Cheers.

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