GrandpaPhil
-
Posts
5,720 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by GrandpaPhil
-
I learned to paint, and got most of my modeling skills, painting wargaming and role playing game miniatures back in the 1990’s. I tend to use the same paint techniques for my ships or other models. I like to prime with black and then layer up my paint to create the illusion of depth and lighting.
-
Many acrylic primers, at least that are easily available in the States, will not adhere to non-polystyrene plastic models or brass detail parts.
-
It is for acrylic paint and primer adhesion. Depending on the material, the paint will flake off, or just not stick in the first place, even if cleaned properly to remove oils or mold release agents prior to priming. Sealing with an acrylic sealant gives the primer something to adhere to.
-
Thank you very much!
-
My whipstaff: And the platform: They were part of this group of pieces.
-
One finished ladder: Everyone has a fitting that is challenging to them. Ladders are that fitting for me. I am very pleased with how it turned out.
-
I seal metal and non-styrene plastic with acrylic sealant prior to priming and painting. Mod-Podge works very well for that too, but if you use Mod-Podge for anything with a lot of detail, thin it down.
-
Test run: The setup is a little tricky, but no worse than making a jig. Assembly was super easy though. And the steps are to scale. I think I just found my new way of making ladders.
-
I want to try a slotted ladder. I am going to copy that and glue it down to some more card to make the doubler and see what happens.
-
The thumb is good! Thank you both very much! Here is where I am starting out: I still need to finish installing some deck beams: Here is my next round of parts:
-
The build booklet that came with my Victory Models plan set for the Revenge, which is the same that comes with the kit, is phenomenal.
-
Glen, Nicely done on the longship! The Kraken is looking amazing! Excellent sculpt job!
-
Making progress: I made a fillet of thumb when my scalpel slipped while trimming the transom. I made balsa alignment pins for a couple beams: Time to trace some more parts and then get ready to make a ladder.
-
Very cool diorama idea!
-
Some deck support beams:
-
I always use PVA glue to attach card to wood. CA can easily cause discoloration in card if not used carefully. I learned that the hard way.
-
Very nicely done!
-
Thank you very much for the information! The bow deck is on! Making progress!
-
I just found most of the Rif Winfield books for $4.99 apiece for Kindle on Amazon.
-
- 1
-
-
Thank you all very much for the information! I greatly appreciate it! I really like the method of making gratings that Jan demonstrated on his card modeling forum (Thank you again for showing me that). I am going to try it out when I make the gratings for the main decks. They will look better than my last gratings. I will arrange to have the solid bars around the edges of the gratings. While we’re discussing 16th century tech, does anyone know anything about late 16th century artillery, and gun carriages in particular?
-
Very cool!
-
Here are some pictures. The gundeck: Deck piece 42 is just sitting there. A pile of pieces: Two capstans: Capstan sitting in place: This is a good use for leftover giant Valentine’s Day cards. I have used four or five of them now. I have nearly seven left.
-
Thank you very much! The shipyard workers are working wonders! We have made much more progress. I have not taken pictures yet. The gundeck is made, and installed, from stem to stern. It still needs touched up and sealed, but I have more parts to add, so I think I will take care of everything at once. I have traced out all the parts for the next several pages in the Victory Models instruction book. I am about 2/3 done cutting them out now. I made the two capstans as part of this. I have the beakhead deck ready to test fit, but I still haven’t cut out and laminated all of the associated pieces.
Our Emblem ®
