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GrandpaPhil

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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. The gundeck is painted. The forward bulkhead is on. I installed the gratings and the hatch down. Started “planking” the deck. The rest of the deck pieces for this level are drying. They will be drying for the next 24 hours. I am going to be planking the inside of the gundeck bulwarks in the same fashion as @xodar461, whose build log of the Revenge kit I studied extensively, once I get to that point. Here is his build log: Continuing on, I squared bulkhead number 1 carefully and glued it down. I will glue the 4 aft bulkheads when I install the deck pieces. I am trying to avoid hull twist and warping. But, for my first multi-deck model, I think that this is going pretty well. I have bulkheads and deck pieces, that’s a good start. Soon it will be time to begin covering the hull and I will have to decide how I want to do that.
  2. I ended up cutting out bulkhead 4 and adjusting it to remove hull twist. It is now glued back down. Bulkheads 2 & 3 are now glued down and the gundeck is now in place. I was right, there will be minimal visibility through the decks, which is okay. This deck will get planked and get detailed, along with the stern portions of the deck, which are now cut out and laminated.
  3. While we’re on the topic, any idea about which style applied to late 16th century English?
  4. The orlop deck is complete: I have the deck beams for the gundeck drying: The gundeck is drying under glass: And a bowl of parts to include one bulkhead, several filler pieces, the gratings for the gundeck and a hatch: Time to start prepping the next round of pieces!
  5. He laid strips of heavy card across card making it look like a ladder. Then he cut lengthwise to make grating strips, the same way you would make them from wood strips. It is an excellent method for making gratings. I already made the ones for the gundeck, but I am going to use Jan’s method for making the rest of them.
  6. Orlop deck with my test run of contact paper covered “planks”: It will not be visible, so it is a good test run. I will have to prepaint the deck a dark brown next time so I do not have pink and red showing through in the gaps. Once I finish covering the deck, I’ll paint gaps as I can and the rest of the deck dark brown, since I am only planking to the bulkheads, and then seal everything in.
  7. Thank you very much! I will do that for the next round of gratings!
  8. The first round of gratings: The one on the right is for the Orlop deck and still needs painted. The one on the left is for the gun deck leading down into the orlop deck.
  9. Jan, Sorry about that. I accidentally deleted my reply earlier when I went to edit it. I have read all of Doris’s and Ab Hoving’s build logs very carefully. Their work is incredible! I have learned a lot from both of them. I used the vertical planking method on my other card ships. With these plans being originally for a wood kit, I am curious to see what happens if I just plank it normally with card, to build up the 2mm thickness that it is designed for. My card is 1mm and it will be double planked so the numbers work out perfectly. Plus, the gunport/railing forms are supposed to be 1mm thick. I’ll put the contact paper on the outside layer prior to cutting and installation. The planking material I have now is for the orlop deck. I want to try and make normal planks, with black on the sides of the planks. The orlop deck won’t be visible anyway so it is an excellent candidate for experimentation. If it pans out well, I’ll do the same on the upper decks as well. I have the gratings for the orlop deck made and the gratings for the gundeck partially made now. The hatch going down to the orlop deck is made too. I’ll get pictures later.
  10. The bulkheads are center keel are ready for use and assembled. The middle section is glued together and painted dark brown. I am gluing bulkheads as I get decks installed to support said bulkheads and keep them square. Currently working on the hatches and bulkheads on the orlop and gun deck. I started cutting apart the part of the plans showing the photoetch pieces and then remembered that I didn’t need to do that. I used thin card to great effect on my other models and will on this one too. There are some parts of the gundeck: I got fresh wood grain contact paper for “planking”. I stuck some of if on the other half of this Valentine’s card for planking material.
  11. Baker, Thank you very much! I will use the same method that I used for the Prince de Neufchatel. I essentially just cut the pieces out like normal, just out of card, and then double layer the heavier pieces, like the sides. It worked pretty well. This time I am going to carve the cannons from wood and then use thin pieces of card for the banding.
  12. I bought the e-book of Alexander Stilwell’s HMS Revenge tonight. An excerpt from it regarding the typical armament: So, I have been hunting down photos of the above weapons for later conversion to scale drawings. They will be carved out of dowel rods. These two pictures will be my models for carriages:
  13. The first round of parts are drying under glass for the night: I learned that trick on this forum. I used Mont Marte Glue.
  14. All bulkheads are now cut out and here is the test fit: Once I laminate everything together, I am going to make and install gratings, and “plank”/paint the orlop deck. It will not be visible, but the gratings will add structural integrity.
  15. All bulkheads are rough cut and I’m test fitting as I finish cutting out all bulkhead layers: When I build that other ironclad (I am constantly learning and adapting in this hobby), I am going to cut my bulkheads down to the second gundeck and plan to put the first false deck there, slotted in like this one. However, I am going to put a false orlop deck in as well, for structural integrity.
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