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GrandpaPhil
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Anyone out there working on a card model?
GrandpaPhil replied to gagliano1770's topic in Card and Paper Models
I just started another card model. I am building the Revenge in 1/64 scale from Victory Models plans. -
Making progress:
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Well done! Looking forward to seeing your next build! To minimize the effects of a tremor, brace your arm or wrist on a solid surface.
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Build whatever you feel comfortable with. Ensure it is a subject that you like and are interested in and will stay interested in. Zu Monfeld recommends something like a cog for a starter model. I recommend a smaller boat or ship like a jolly boat kit, a cutter, a schooner or a brig. You will find out what you like pretty quickly. Never be afraid to try a new type of model. But, as has been said earlier, it is best to build them one at a time. And, case in point with Mark’s comment, I am one of the people with a semi-dead Victory build. I started it six years ago. Finishing it would not be particularly difficult at this point, I just do not have the interest. It still needs close to a year to finish and I discovered that my ship model building interests lie elsewhere. It will most likely be resurrected at some point, but not for a long while.
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Nicely done!
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Welcome!
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Making progress: I am cutting the basic shape out and notching everything I can get to with scissors and then finalizing with a scalpel. It is working much better than just by scalpel alone. This heavy card eats scalpel blades. I was changing blades every other part. Since starting with scissors, I have gotten five or six parts so far, this blade.
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Very nice!
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Thank you both very much! Just remember, a 6 pack of poster board is only around $5 at Walmart! I built my first card ship out of one of those. It worked supremely well. If it doesn’t work out, and the model goes in the bin, you’re not out much. I’ve actually used a failed card model to light a bonfire before. Ab Hoving made an excellent card scratch build tutorial on this forum: It is an excellent read! I strongly recommend it! It made me realize that scratch building a ship out of card was actually doable. My only card ship kits have been the Solferino and the started Mercury. I am personally of the opinion that building a card model ship from scratch is actually easier than building one from a kit.
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I am accumulating a pile of parts: The keel pieces are about 22 inches long. The last couple models took between 8 and 10 hours to make the bulkheads, including tracing, scaling and copying. Once I get the frame up and start looking at putting in decks, I need to get the inboard profile out and start plotting out gunport frames, sills and interior planking. I have a book in my Amazon cart about the Elizabethan Navy. I need to get a snapshot of the load-out of the Revenge so I can plan out the cannons. From the pictures I have seen, these look like they will be culverins, which will be interesting to make. I made a 15th century siege gun once, in 28mm scale from a picture I found in a book. I think the method I used there will be just fine (carve barrel and apply banding). I will need to find drawings of them in the appropriate caliber to rescale.
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I have fun with building like this. The nice thing about card models is that the tooling is pretty simple, although I could build a wood model with them. I have a scalpel, a razor saw, a coping saw and a pin-vise for making most parts. For metal working, I have a couple pairs of needle nose pliers and diagonal cutters. I found a good soldering station last year in a wholesale lot that I bought. For drawing and parts setup, I have a couple rulers, scales, a tee, a couple triangles and the usual sets of drafting shapes. And, of course, tweezers, long handled and short. I have some power tools, like a scroll saw, drill and a Dremel that I have picked up over the years, but I don’t really use them for model making. The crafting of the parts is supremely relaxing to me. I trace the parts out by hand for the same reason. Most of this model is being built with stuff I already have. I am $95 into this project so far. That’s $50 for the plans, $15 for a pack of 60 glue sticks for all the parts and $30 for the base that I bought for the Victory that I am using on this project. Space-wise, I have my own room in the house for model building anyway, with a desk for building models, and a multipurpose table that I usually use as a plans table.
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I have all bulkheads, the center keel, the lower deck and the transom glued down: I have three of those cards full of parts. The cards are 1mm thick and measure 24 inches by 32 inches.
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The trick is going to be in the glueing order for the bulkheads to prevent warping and twisting. I think it will be best to glue as I make and install decks. I have mont marte glue so I won’t have the same warping issues I did with the water based glue I used last time.
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I like Delta Ceramcoat acrylic paint for wood or card models.
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One pile of tracings to be photocopied 4 times each. Each bulkhead and the keel plate piece will be cut out and then laminated together to 4 thicknesses of the 1mm card. This is essentially the same technique I used before, but I am learning how Chris’s locking decks work instead of using the main deck to square the bulkheads.
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This is my third scratch build. I have a lot more fun with these than I do kits. I should note that this is my first time using model kit plans for a scratch project. The Victory Models series are extremely well designed and I will be mostly following the construction process in the guide book, and using the templates provided, with some modifications. I am building in card because I have been having a lot of fun with card models. I built the Prince de Neufchatel POB in card from a couple different Chapelle books and the Hannah POB in card from plans in one of Harold Hahn’s books. Building the Prince de Neufchatel really opened my eyes about model ship building and what my capabilities actually are. I had the most fun building that model that I have ever had. It is still my favorite model. Hopefully, the Revenge will take the Prince de Neufchatel’s place as favorite model. The scale on the Revenge is large enough that I will not need to buy anything premade. I did not buy anything premade for the Prince de Neufchatel either. And so it begins: I am in the process of tracing bulkheads. I am using the extremely high tech method of tracing paper, pencil and glue sticks, lol: This is going to be fun!
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I bought the Amati Victory Models plans set of the Revenge, a couple years back, from Cornwall Model Boats. They have been sitting in my closet for a while now and I would really like to use them. Chris Watton did a wonderful job of designing the kit for Amati. The plans are simply amazing. They beg to be used. I have a couple of Amazon boxes that are begging to be cut apart and turned into bulkheads and a keel. I have a bunch of giant Valentine’s cards that I bought in a wholesale lot last year. They are almost exactly 1mm thick. I have recently acquired a bunch of cereal boxes that are about .5mm thick. I also have a couple packs of poster board that are about .8mm thick. Lastly, I have bunch of wood grained contact paper that needs used while it is still self adhesive. I do have a couple other builds on hold at the moment. I’ll get to them eventually.
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Very nicely done!
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kit review 1/200 Solferino French Ironclad - Orel - Card Kit
GrandpaPhil replied to GrandpaPhil's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
I had a lot of fun building this one! It is a most excellent kit! -
Does Shipyard Make a 1/96 HMS Bellona?
GrandpaPhil replied to GrandpaPhil's topic in Card and Paper Models
I thought about either building from the AOTS or buying the Corel plans and doing some creative rescaling/reconciling of the two plans. -
Taubman’s has ocean liner plans. If you follow the links for card model sales sites in the Intro To Card Modeling thread, there are multiple liners.
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I use max cure superglue from just about any hobby house. My last couple batches were Bob Smith Industries off Amazon. It works great for me. It bonds metal to metal and metal to wood without a problem. It takes a few minutes to set up, but once it dries, it doesn’t let loose.
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