hollowneck

As I illustrated above - Added the additional stays to the upper main and fore masts.  It definitely adds to the complexity and bulk on the mastheads, but still looks good to me.  And more importantly, I've utilized those extraneous deadeyes. 
 
 
 
 
 
   I guess we can just rest assured that this would be the most stable 14-gun sloop in the Navy! 
 

The main topmast stay and main topmast preventer stay obviously follow the same pattern as the foremast - though they are reversed in their placement. Meaning, the preventer stay is laid over the masthead first, then the main topmast stay.  The preventer is a 4" line - .50mm at scale - served to just past the mouse as with the others. The line feeds through an 11" (4.5mm) block that is lashed to the foremast just below the hounds and above the catharpins. The block is stropped with a fully served .38mm line.  I used the FFM's version of this strop - an eye on one end, wrapping around the block, then the free end looping around the mast, through the eye, and tied off against itself.
 

 
The bottom tackle of the preventer (as well as the main topmast stay) is made up of a violin block at it's top and a single block attached to a hook that is secured to one of the eyebolts in the deck at the base of the foremast.  The preventer is secured to the port side foremost eyebolt. This was a tricky bit to get measured properly. My process was to first secure the single block to the hook then measure it's length to find a reference point on the mast. Then, I laid the violin block against the stay pulling it down the mast until I found a reasonable distance between the blocks for the lanyard. In this case, it was about 7mm. Then, I unhooked the hook and added the lanyard using .30mm line without securing one end of the line.  Finally, I re-hooked the bottom block into place, tightened the lanyard and stay, and secured the lanyard to the bottom end of the tackle. 
 

 
This process is repeated for the main topmast stay with the line being 5.5" - .70mm at scale - and using an 14" inch (5.5mm) block that is stropped and lashed to the masthead above the stays and jeer tie lashings. The bottom tackle is the same and hooked to the starboard side eyebolt at the front of the foremast.  
 

 
 
 

 
Starting to look like a rigged ship!

Saturday – June 15, 2024
 
Sign up information will be sent to all NRG members on or about June 1.
 
The workshop will explain materials, techniques and tools for creating realistic-looking sails for ship models. The first presenter’s section focuses on crafting working sails while the second presenter will explain techniques for creating furled ones. Both approaches use an inexpensive and adaptable paper-like material called “Silkspan.”
 
The Virtual Workshop is open to all NRG members to attend the ZOOM event on Saturday, June 15, 2024, at 10:30 AM CDS time.
11:30 AM – Eastern
10:30 AM – Central
9:30 AM – Mountain
8:30 AM – Pacific
4:30 PM – Greenwich
 
 

Page for the launches are now live:
 
24′ and 26′ Launches (3D printed hulls) – VANGUARD MODELS
 
26 foot – 123 long x 37 mm wide - £29.00
24 foot – 112mm long x 34.5 wide - £27.00
 
Each mini kit has three 3-d printed parts and one sheet of 0.8mm pear laser cut parts.
 
I am very happy to have started to produce these, and the forthcoming boat types. I remember the choices always being pretty slim (to put it mildly) for pre made hulls, usually having to settle for some generic type that was always too much of a compromise - and I also know that many have trouble, or do not like the plank on bulkhead mini kits. I am hoping these will help fill a gap...

Saturday – June 15, 2024
 
Sign up information will be sent to all NRG members on or about June 1.
 
The workshop will explain materials, techniques and tools for creating realistic-looking sails for ship models. The first presenter’s section focuses on crafting working sails while the second presenter will explain techniques for creating furled ones. Both approaches use an inexpensive and adaptable paper-like material called “Silkspan.”
 
The Virtual Workshop is open to all NRG members to attend the ZOOM event on Saturday, June 15, 2024, at 10:30 AM CDS time.
11:30 AM – Eastern
10:30 AM – Central
9:30 AM – Mountain
8:30 AM – Pacific
4:30 PM – Greenwich
 
 

Saturday – June 15, 2024
 
Sign up information will be sent to all NRG members on or about June 1.
 
The workshop will explain materials, techniques and tools for creating realistic-looking sails for ship models. The first presenter’s section focuses on crafting working sails while the second presenter will explain techniques for creating furled ones. Both approaches use an inexpensive and adaptable paper-like material called “Silkspan.”
 
The Virtual Workshop is open to all NRG members to attend the ZOOM event on Saturday, June 15, 2024, at 10:30 AM CDS time.
11:30 AM – Eastern
10:30 AM – Central
9:30 AM – Mountain
8:30 AM – Pacific
4:30 PM – Greenwich
 
 

Sunny weather in the UK (until the last few days) has not been so conducive to boat building. 
 
I’ve made the masts and bowsprit, they’re not glued in position yet, so may not be properly aligned. Still to add any blocks or deadeyes to them, that’s the next job I find squaring off the dowel at the tops for the masts and topmasts quite difficult, I just use a vice, file and sandpaper, I’m not sure if there’s a better method?
 
I’m also clumsy and keep snapping off the top of the topgallant masts - both now reaffixed with CA glue. 

There’s two types of PE eyebolts in the kit, larger PE-15 for the outside of the hull and smaller ones PE-14. I don’t think there’s quite enough of the larger eyebolts for the outside of the hull so I checked with Chris and he said fine to use the smaller PE-14 eyebolts there too. I ran out of eyebolts after completing the hull and before adding those needed to the masts and bowsprit. I’m not quite sure why, I’ve gone back and counted all the PE eyebolts required on the plans including the shortage of the larger eyebolts and by my reckoning I should have had enough between the two types. I must have lost more to the carpet monster than I thought!
 
I contacted Chris and he very kindly sent me some more eyebolts. Such incredible customer service and hugely appreciated. Thanks again. 

Excellent build and build log! She really looks brilliant!
 
I was convinced of this model the moment Chris posted the first pictures.
I guess rigging will also be straightforward, I'll be following closely.
 
Maybe one day ... (once I have finished my current Speedy, then Trial, then Nisha......)
 
Best regards
Uwe
 

The new 3D molds look really good, especially with the inclusion of the windlass and davit. The resin does paint well with only a simple base acrylic primer. I use a Tamiya rattlecan (grey) for this and it's compatible with Vallejo paints.
-----
iPad screenshot: press the "Home" button and the "Power" button simultaneously and then release; a thumbnail will appear in the lower left corner which can then be tapped on to enlarge it with various file options (Save, share, delete, etc.). No "snipping tool" required.

The new 3D molds look really good, especially with the inclusion of the windlass and davit. The resin does paint well with only a simple base acrylic primer. I use a Tamiya rattlecan (grey) for this and it's compatible with Vallejo paints.
-----
iPad screenshot: press the "Home" button and the "Power" button simultaneously and then release; a thumbnail will appear in the lower left corner which can then be tapped on to enlarge it with various file options (Save, share, delete, etc.). No "snipping tool" required.

The new 3D molds look really good, especially with the inclusion of the windlass and davit. The resin does paint well with only a simple base acrylic primer. I use a Tamiya rattlecan (grey) for this and it's compatible with Vallejo paints.
-----
iPad screenshot: press the "Home" button and the "Power" button simultaneously and then release; a thumbnail will appear in the lower left corner which can then be tapped on to enlarge it with various file options (Save, share, delete, etc.). No "snipping tool" required.

The new 3D molds look really good, especially with the inclusion of the windlass and davit. The resin does paint well with only a simple base acrylic primer. I use a Tamiya rattlecan (grey) for this and it's compatible with Vallejo paints.
-----
iPad screenshot: press the "Home" button and the "Power" button simultaneously and then release; a thumbnail will appear in the lower left corner which can then be tapped on to enlarge it with various file options (Save, share, delete, etc.). No "snipping tool" required.

The new 3D molds look really good, especially with the inclusion of the windlass and davit. The resin does paint well with only a simple base acrylic primer. I use a Tamiya rattlecan (grey) for this and it's compatible with Vallejo paints.
-----
iPad screenshot: press the "Home" button and the "Power" button simultaneously and then release; a thumbnail will appear in the lower left corner which can then be tapped on to enlarge it with various file options (Save, share, delete, etc.). No "snipping tool" required.

Progress on the hull.
Post 2
 
The only area that needs cleaning up is the transom.

4751
This has a pimpling effect from the moulding that needs sanding smooth, a simple and quick exercise.
 
Note there are two little protrusions on the transom and stern post that relate to the rudder and shouldn’t be mistaken for flash.

4762
With the resin washed and the parts carefully trimmed as necessary, they are now primed.
I use Vallejo surface primer.
 
In considering the colour scheme, my aim is to create a look that tones in with the wooden kit boats on ‘Indy’ purely for comparison purposes.
The internal areas of boats were usually painted and with a resin model it is necessary.
I have read that left over paint mixtures known as sad were often applied to the internal planking of ships boats.
 
Once the internal painting has been done the windlass can be fitted.

4766
It slots into the housing perfectly, with very little effort. It then provides a useful point to hold the boat for painting the external hull.

4763
The outer hull painted with a mix of ¾ Burnt umber / ¼ Natural wood.
 
This was followed by a wash consisting of Flat earth lightened with Ochre brown and tinted with a spot of vermillion.
This was applied over the base and dry brushed.
 
With acrylics it is easy to play around with colour mixes until a tone that suits the eye is achieved.

4769

4772
The lower hull was painted using Vallejo Ivory.

4779

4784
Onto the internal fittings.
 
B.E.
23/05/2024
 

If you click on the magnifier in the picture, it brings it up almost full screen - that's how I did it and then just took a screenshot
 

 

There is indeed a pic with general instructions on the product page:
 

Building the new Vanguard Resin 26’ Launch.
 
Partly out of curiosity I decided to get one of Chris’s new hot off the press resin launches. It will provide an interesting exercise in woodifying the resin hull and allow me to compare with the wooden kit versions.
It may also help to lay the ghost of my failure with the Indy kit version, and if nothing else I will avoid the frustration of breakages.
 
A look in the package

4748
This is what you get.

4743
Internally the Keelson is represented together with mast and davit steps.
The solid floor footwaling is represented by broader planking sections for which there is historical evidence.
 
My current Medway Longboat also has much broader floor  planking.

4741
The moulding is very nicely done and looks to need very little clean -up beyond washing the resin.

4742
I note that there is no indication of external planking strakes, possibly thought unnecessary because the hull must be painted and they would be pretty fine and not show thro’ the paint.
 
The oar arrangement is for double banking, which is appropriate given the Admiralty order of 1783 regarding Launches.

4745
The significant feature of a Launch, the windlass, is also supplied in resin. I am pleased that this feature has been included, these are tricky to make at 1:64 scale, I know, I made one to go with the Launch for Sphinx.

4746
The remaining Resin fitting is the davit.
 
I don’t think there are any instructions with these kits but then there is not much in the way of construction required to complete the model. All the hard work has been done, internal framing and the all-important thwart supports are moulded in.
The thwarts and stern sheets are of 0.8mm Pearwood and look to simply slot into place with minimal effort.
 
The key factor in producing a fine model is all in the painting with this medium, we’ll see how I get on.🤔
 
Both the Resin and the alternative wooden kit versions are the same price at £29.00. The difference is that with the wooden version brass etch grapnels and boathooks are included, along with a good serving of tricky building time, but it doesn’t have the windlass.
 
I wonder if the Resin fitting would be appropriate to supply with the Pearwood Launch version as an optional extra?
 
 On with the assembly.
 
B.E.
21/05/2024
 

Post 19
Cap rails and frames cont’d
 
Over the past week I have continued to work on the frames and Capping rails, slowly easing myself back into the build.
The starboard side is pared down using the same procedure as before.

4692
For sanding I used 320 grit paper.
 
With the Cap rails down to around 5/32” width the inboard sheer strakes can be fitted. 
These comprise two laser cut planks (1/32” x 5/32”) for each side, a bow section and longer aft section. The sections are pre spiled to take account of the bow round and sheer.
 
Having lost familiarity with the kit contents it took me a while to locate these which are on sheet ‘R’ of the planking sheets.

4725
The bow sections were wetted down and pre-formed around the bow before fitting.

4727

4729

4730
The inboard strakes have now been fitted, one or two spots of char to attend to but this section is nearing completion.
 
There is a bow knee to be fitted and the kit supplies laser cut pieces from cedar.
The kit part was not a good fit on my build requiring too much material removal and/or filler to retain the elegant shape.

4734
I remade the part from Boxwood sheet having taken a template, but even so this will still require some fettlin’ to get the hoped-for razor line fit to the capping rail at the bow.
 
 
B.E.
21/05/2024

Good Job, Bob! Thank You - I'm pleased you have been inspired by my workshop on water crafting.
Once you detail wave highlighting, add some "foam" - and place your model in her H20 "cradle" you will have a great presentation for your Viking boat. Arrrrggh!

Saturday – June 15, 2024
 
Sign up information will be sent to all NRG members on or about June 1.
 
The workshop will explain materials, techniques and tools for creating realistic-looking sails for ship models. The first presenter’s section focuses on crafting working sails while the second presenter will explain techniques for creating furled ones. Both approaches use an inexpensive and adaptable paper-like material called “Silkspan.”
 
The Virtual Workshop is open to all NRG members to attend the ZOOM event on Saturday, June 15, 2024, at 10:30 AM CDS time.
11:30 AM – Eastern
10:30 AM – Central
9:30 AM – Mountain
8:30 AM – Pacific
4:30 PM – Greenwich
 
 

Good Job, Bob! Thank You - I'm pleased you have been inspired by my workshop on water crafting.
Once you detail wave highlighting, add some "foam" - and place your model in her H20 "cradle" you will have a great presentation for your Viking boat. Arrrrggh!

Saturday – June 15, 2024
 
Sign up information will be sent to all NRG members on or about June 1.
 
The workshop will explain materials, techniques and tools for creating realistic-looking sails for ship models. The first presenter’s section focuses on crafting working sails while the second presenter will explain techniques for creating furled ones. Both approaches use an inexpensive and adaptable paper-like material called “Silkspan.”
 
The Virtual Workshop is open to all NRG members to attend the ZOOM event on Saturday, June 15, 2024, at 10:30 AM CDS time.
11:30 AM – Eastern
10:30 AM – Central
9:30 AM – Mountain
8:30 AM – Pacific
4:30 PM – Greenwich
 
 

Saturday – June 15, 2024
 
Sign up information will be sent to all NRG members on or about June 1.
 
The workshop will explain materials, techniques and tools for creating realistic-looking sails for ship models. The first presenter’s section focuses on crafting working sails while the second presenter will explain techniques for creating furled ones. Both approaches use an inexpensive and adaptable paper-like material called “Silkspan.”
 
The Virtual Workshop is open to all NRG members to attend the ZOOM event on Saturday, June 15, 2024, at 10:30 AM CDS time.
11:30 AM – Eastern
10:30 AM – Central
9:30 AM – Mountain
8:30 AM – Pacific
4:30 PM – Greenwich
 
 

Saturday – June 15, 2024
 
Sign up information will be sent to all NRG members on or about June 1.
 
The workshop will explain materials, techniques and tools for creating realistic-looking sails for ship models. The first presenter’s section focuses on crafting working sails while the second presenter will explain techniques for creating furled ones. Both approaches use an inexpensive and adaptable paper-like material called “Silkspan.”
 
The Virtual Workshop is open to all NRG members to attend the ZOOM event on Saturday, June 15, 2024, at 10:30 AM CDS time.
11:30 AM – Eastern
10:30 AM – Central
9:30 AM – Mountain
8:30 AM – Pacific
4:30 PM – Greenwich
 
 

Good Job, Bob! Thank You - I'm pleased you have been inspired by my workshop on water crafting.
Once you detail wave highlighting, add some "foam" - and place your model in her H20 "cradle" you will have a great presentation for your Viking boat. Arrrrggh!