hollowneck

Amazon. Where else? A set of 4 is $20-something, but worth it.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Finger-Drills-Package-of-4/dp/B06XF39QTX
 
I also think MicroMark carried them a few years ago but not currently.
 
Ron

em·bel·lish·ment - /əmˈbeliSHmənt
plural noun: a decorative detail or feature added to something to make it more attractive.
 
Although the kit supplied rigging materials are quite adequate, I decided to use a slightly smaller size for the mid-deck companionway safety rope. The manual calls for rope that is .5mm. I substituted .35mm diameter rope from my stash and I liked the appearance much better: not least of all, the better color and the way it hangs, the "swag." As will become apparent in additional photos, I have concentrated on fine details of the mid-gun deck,  like the pumps that are very cleverly designed in this kit.
 
The chain pumps are lasered from MDF as a single piece with added cladding pear boards: nice. However, the "spout" isn't a spout exactly, just a square lump. After failing to make this look like a convincing square opening, I hacked this protuberance off and glued on a small slice of Evergreen Plastics 3/16" square white styrene extrusion. Say that 10 times! The CA held well and then I painted it in brown acrylic, two coats. Next time (ha-ha) I'll roughen-up the plastic's smooth surface so the paint adheres a little better.
 
The hand pumps too are clever: the mechanism is crafted with several pieces of small P/E which then attach to a walnut dowel. I wanted the hand pumps to stand out against their larger brothers behind them so I substituted a piece of birch dowel, stained it in weathered oak and glued-on the tiny square spouts at their base. The tiny spouts were made from a piece of 2mm square stock, very carefully drilled-out. I use a sharp awl to create a tiny starter hole, then use a thumbdrill (my favorites for many detailing tasks) to accomplish this.
 
Two photos show the addition of "fancy" moldings on the channels (the Brits spell this "moulding'). I fashioned these with 1.5mm strip pear that has been shaped into a routed profile with a small brass scraper (other photo). Moving toward mid-deck, the other close-up shows the addition of (copper) scuppers, also missing from the kit's bulwarks: I added six per side, per historical convention. One doesn't add these unless there are proper drain holes where the bulwarks meet the deck internally. I added the appropriate drain holes with a small drill into the added waterways which are 1.5mm strips of pear, shaped to a triangular section and affixed to the deck at the base of the spirketting. I put a daub of dark paint to the drain holes.
 
Lastly, for this update, two pictures show the added gangway supports and the fit of the gangway along the top edges of the mid-deck bulwarks. The white "stick" is temporarily wedging the gangway pattern down onto the supports to see how the tolerances add-up before trimming and gluing said pieces to the bulwarks. This is going to be a slightly tricky task to pull-off convincingly, but I think it can be done by taking time to get very exacting tolerances right - like so many other areas of this kit.
 
An observation, and certainly not a criticism: the tolerances to a large number of this kit's components demand an extra high attention level to take the time to fit things together -  that - in many circumstances is simply removing char. As I've noted elsewhere (Kit Reviews), this kit has numerous components (not just the P/E I'll also note) that have tolerances that measure +/- .005 on adjacent fittings. Gulp. Pay attention, builders.
 
Ron
 
 
 


 

Oops. I forgot to caption the pic of the lens: this is an 85mm, f1.28 Nikon PC/E micro Tilt/Shift lens. This lens is great for composing tight close-up shots that have crisp DOF (depth-of-field). By definition it also demands to be used with a full frame Nikon digital camera. Normally, I'll choose the 45mm TS lens version for most photo work with my models - when I choose to use my full frame camera and spend the additional time required with these specialized lenses. Both are fiddly, but create near view camera excellence. Needless to say, there is no auto focus with these lenses; manual only. In practice, the most efficient way to check one's focus is to snap a pic, enlarge it (in camera software) and make sure your focus is tack sharp across the frame.
 
The above adds more "tech talk" detail, but some members may want to try this lens for their models if they're not inclined to spend hours in post-production computer jockeying and rather get back to their benches...😁
Ron

Focus stacking is a lot of work, even with Nikon's "Focus Shift." The Helicon software is sweet...but...as Glenn has explained earlier in this thread, the overhead is also substantial (especially with a full frame camera); one will end up with multiple huge data files to process in order to obtain a single shot. It's a similar scenario with "non-automated" focus shifting (multiple shots, blended together).
 
The basic consideration in this thread is to take high-quality shots of ship models, attempting to achieve good depth-of-field where most of the subject is in good if not, critical focus.
 
I use an old school system that gets a decent photo of my models in a single exposure - no post-production overhead with having to diddle with software, just a clean single frame. I can shoot a couple dozen photos with only one lighting set-up and get good quality results pretty quickly.
 
Here's the specs for my model photography (see the photo here): I use my old Nikon D5100 with an AFS-DX 40mm (prime) lens. I shoot at f22 typically with long exposures with a low ISO setting (100 usually). The photo here was taken this way with no post-production Photoshop. This arrangement gives me a decent-sized file of about 10 Mb; I've been able to enlarge this base file to a 20" X 40" canvas image and it holds up reasonably well.
---------
There is another route to excellent "single shot" results. I have also taken photos with a TS (tilt/shift) lens on a newer Nikon D620 (full frame) which allows me to shift the focal plane of the lens thus allowing me to capture a sharp image over a deep focal plane. With good tabletop lighting (3 sources- hot or strobe), I can stop down to f32 (the TS lens approaches large format camera lens capability) and then I let the magic (good depth-of-field) hit the camera's sensor on a much longer 2-3 second exposure typically. A long exposure also permits me also to "paint with light" in some circumstances for achieving good lighting effects. In this case, I shoot most of my studio photos of my models with either the 45mm or 85mm TS depending on the shot composition. TS lens' are also available for Canon. The TS range for Nikon (or Canon) can be rented by the day at reasonable prices since they are indeed, pricey ($1,500- $2,200). I am not aware of TS lenses for other digital camera models.
 
For those on the thread who are not professional photographers, a TS lens mimics the movements of large view cameras. There are still view cameras (and high-quality, large image circle lenses) being used in photo studios that simultaneously employ large sensor arrays mounted to the rear of these "old school" view cameras where large format film holders used to go. The digital sensor array feeds its signal to a video monitor and a tethered computer.
 
I hope some of this (inexpensive) technique and tech info can help non-pro shooters in our hobby shoot better photos,
 
Ron
 

Welcome Jesse! There is a wealth of information and specialized knowledge here. This is matched by very amenable and helpful members. There are members here who build in both plastic and wood. You might be surprised by some of the "crossover" skills between the two disparate sides of the model making hobby!
 
Jump right in; the water's fine.😁
Ron

I just realized I forgot to upload a photo for the hand pump after I added the scratched spout. You can also see the larger square spout on the chain pumps body; this one is 3/16" square so you can see that the hand pump spout is less than 1/8" square! Getting that round hole on center so it wouldn't break through the side of the square stock was nerve-wracking! I had to grip the tiny piece with a tweezer clamp when I drilled it.
Ron

Thanks, Mark. I'm going to try and show as many tools and materials as possible as I continue. I know this helps me when I read a log.
We all use different tools and approach building tasks in our own ways, so seeing how something is achieved is just as valuable as why it was done.
 
My next post (perhaps tomorrow) will be about how I approached solving a problem that had me in a slight dilemma. It's about the option that this kit offers for not making it as an Admiralty-styled ship model. Sneak preview shown here...
 
Ron

oops, forgot this pic.
 
This photo shows (background) the scratched waterway with a couple scupper holes. You can also see the added pear lining piece on the base of one gunport. On the cannon, tompions will be affixed to most, with added release ropes threaded thru the gunports. These are made from toothpicks and tiny brass "eyelets." I'm certain the actual mechanisms were more complex than this...🤫 I have since removed the char on the carriage axles after someone noted this...(thanks, Chuck).
 
Important edit: You'll see the breeching rope is mounted to the cannon's cascabel BEFORE attempting to rig the eyebolt hardware into the corresponding holes alongside each gunport. This process makes mounting the cannon so much easier to accomplish. I don't do training tackle on my cannon (or trussing tackle, the upper eyebolts over the openings). There are modelers of this era who do add this embellishment and it can be impressive. For me, adding fiddly 2 mm blocks with .12 dia. proper rigging rope is beyond my patience level, especially for rigging 20 cannon (14 of which won't even be seen!)...
...that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.
 
Ron
Technical note: all my log photos thus far are taken with my old iPhone 6, for convenience (2016?). Not great resolution with any of them, but it does the job.

Amazon. Where else? A set of 4 is $20-something, but worth it.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Finger-Drills-Package-of-4/dp/B06XF39QTX
 
I also think MicroMark carried them a few years ago but not currently.
 
Ron

Be sure and give us a photo tour when you are all set up.

I second that, this Kit is designed in such a Superb way, that even on a low skill level and with little patience one can achieve a passable result which might be okay for some builders (and especially until now i havent encountered any real showstoppers which might result in this kit not getting finished)
 
Of course, the more skill and patience you bring, the better the end result but in the end it's up to the builder what level of quality they want to achieve and if some just want to "slap it together" just to have a personal feeling of achievement, then that was perhaps not your intention, but i wouldnt berate anyone for that 

Great Idea Chris 👍
Mind you, i suppose the grading is subjective. Having been following most (if not all) the Sphinx builds, a lot of people are saying that with a little patience it's buildable by all skill levels. That's a testament to your design skills. 
Wishing you the best of luck with this new phase.
RB
 

Another little update.
 
Since the beginning of 28th September until last week, we had builders here to convert our garage into a proper unit, split into two rooms, one room for the laser cutting and raw materials, and another for packing (and gym...). They did quote 2 weeks, but it was over 5 weeks. We have a new roof, floor levelled and walls skinned in OSB boards, including the partition.
 
All new shelving arrived yesterday, so this week we are fitting the rooms out. Next Monday my new laser machine arrives, so I will be able to develop much larger kits (Sphinx is the largest I could go with my current machine, unless I split the keel, and I prefer not to do that if at all possible)
 
I now have all Vanguard Models kits in stock, after a nightmare couple of months chasing suppliers up with my orders (notably, photo etched brass). As I have mentioned, because of the headaches this has caused me lately, my next three kits are having the photo etched sheets produced locally here in the UK. They cost more, but then again, all photo etch  suppliers are increasing prices anyway, due to shortages of raw materials.
 
Right now, I am laser cutting the Nisha and Erycina production parts. Today I received the 3-d printed castings for the kits, as well as sample sail sets for each. The production versions are being made now, so will hopefully be ready in time for the kit releases.
 
I have read all the build logs, most notably the Sphinx logs. When designing/developing Sphinx, my design philosophy for this kit (aside from wanting to develop kits that I would want to buy) was to make the build as painless as possible for builders who were used to kits like Fly, Vanguard, Duchess etc.. So intermediate modellers.
 
I wanted to include cut parts that are never really included in older kits, where these parts are either left off altogether, or the modeller needs to make them from strips of wood or blocks of wood. All they then need is final finishing and, in some cases, like the quarter gallery, all three edges require shaping. But for the most part, if the parts are not painted, the top and bottom edges need slight filing/sanding to remove the char, which, being laser cut, I can do nothing about. Sphinx will still take a while to build, but a lot of that time should be cleaning up pre cut parts, and not making them from scratch.
 
In summary,  wooden model kits are not designed to fall together when you shake the box (as many allude to Tamiya), but each part still needs to be worked on and test fitted multiple times, and maybe adjusted, before fitting. Sphinx takes 8 hours to produce each kit.
 
I have said before, if I designed each kit like most other mainstream manufacturers, I could honestly produce a dozen or so new kits per year, as there's really nothing to them. But where is the fun/challenge in that?
 
When we get time, we will add a section on my website, grading each kit according to the experience required to build each kit.
 
Cheers,
 
Chris

Since I'm playing "catch-up" with my postings I'll mention that these first Build Log photos are NOT SEQUENTIAL. Obviously, I've spent a number of hours getting to point A (the first photo-😁)...and these photos I'll explain, but there may be random "backtracks" as I continue here.
 
The Gratings and the companionway close-up: the purpose here is highlighting the little black beads that simulate cannonballs which are a nice scale-accurate (or close to it) inclusion in the kit's "fittings" box. The little balls were too shiny for me; my 5 yo granddaughter  asked me: "Gampy, where did you get those cute little beads?"...uh... Good question, out of the mouth of babes. So I went back painted all of them FLAT BLACK MATTE. Just a tiny touch to each with a small brush. They now look like iron balls and not something random one finds in the beading aisle at Joanne's Fabrics. Not a big deal, but we collectively agonize over minor stuff like this; it's sort of what this hobby is all about- sort of. You don't need to look too close to see the ordnance as they appear in shiny bead black. 
 
Next photo, a close-up of deck goodies showing: A. a breech-rigged cannon; B. how I've finished my upper interior bulwarks (with the kit's included spirketting and laser cut deck clamp pieces); C. the hanging knees behind the quarterdeck beams; and D. the pump's iron fittings (also in flat black matte paint to show proper - non rusted - iron) and mid-deck bitts and a partial companionway (with the little "beads").
 
I am often asked how I get the nice warm look to most of my period models. Nothing unusual here: four shades of Minwax, available at Lowe's. Natural, (my favorite for most quality hardwoods I use and the extensive amount of pear that's included in this kit; Golden Oak for areas that I want to appear darker than the warm pink hue of pear and simulate a more accurate color for oak; Weathered Oak whose name speaks for itself. I used this on this kit's maple, one-piece deck patterns ("patterns" is a general name Vanguard gives to many pre-cut, precision lasered items in this kit). I've applied this stain to the gun deck. I may apply a "second coat" before I button-up everything amidships. A can not shown ( I misplaced it, somewhere...), Chestnut stain. This color I use on my deadeyes and most rigging blocks. I understand chestnut was used extensively by the British navy for this purpose - along with lignum vitae pulleys, both purpose-suited because of their inherent hardness. I'll stain my deadeyes soon, before they get mounted in their iron chains.
 
It should be noted that I paint and stain all my modeling components as I build. I am constantly opening and closing various jars and cans as I build. Simply stated, I make "aesthetic decisions" as I work; these are typically about color of individual component finishes - like cannon balls! I also depart quite often from proscribed building steps for a host of reasons which should become apparent as I develop this log. I need to mention that the build manual and the extensive plans that come with this kit are excellent and generally-speaking, the construction steps are sequenced in a manner that most will appreciate, especially intermediate level modelers.
 
Lastly, the tools I use to remove "char" from all the laser-cut wood in the kit. I've probably spent 60 hours alone (so far) removing "Char."🤯
My tools for this boring, but essential task: lots of emery/nail sanding files I buy at beauty supply stores. They last forever. But I buy new ones often as I frequently wash them and they soften and go limp after a while. Everyone knows there's not a lot you can do with a limp file.
When I'm de-charing, I often slap the file on my jeans (don't tell my wife) to unpack the fine sanding dust. Works. But they do eventually need to be taken to the sink. Moving on, two from my set of diamond-encrusted mini-files shown here. The tapered round one is especially useful. Worth the money. My soft, sable hair brush. The brush I continually use on all the various surfaces of the model for clean-up as I build. It is helpful to dust the char off tiny pieces like the miniscule hanging knees shown here. The curved stem piece appears to cast a shadow; actually that's the very dark "char" that needs to be diligently removed. Goodbye Char!
 
And, yes. I did leave it on all my cannon carriage wheels. Good idea, Jim! The manual says this is an option. I obviously agree.
 
More to come....
 
 

I am starting this Build Log midway in this very interesting and fun project. I'll start with a photo of my overall progress and then there will be the normal, very specific photos about build details I'd like to share with the reader's of this thread.
 
The first thing that I should note is that I am building this model as a sister ship to the Sphinx, HMS Camilla - same era. I have posted an earlier Kit Review of this Vanguard model that covered my early impressions which I can now amplify as well as offer additional insights as I've moved along on my build. I hope the followers of this thread will think it helpful; that is certainly my intention!
 
Here we go...

Welcome Jesse! There is a wealth of information and specialized knowledge here. This is matched by very amenable and helpful members. There are members here who build in both plastic and wood. You might be surprised by some of the "crossover" skills between the two disparate sides of the model making hobby!
 
Jump right in; the water's fine.😁
Ron

em·bel·lish·ment - /əmˈbeliSHmənt
plural noun: a decorative detail or feature added to something to make it more attractive.
 
Although the kit supplied rigging materials are quite adequate, I decided to use a slightly smaller size for the mid-deck companionway safety rope. The manual calls for rope that is .5mm. I substituted .35mm diameter rope from my stash and I liked the appearance much better: not least of all, the better color and the way it hangs, the "swag." As will become apparent in additional photos, I have concentrated on fine details of the mid-gun deck,  like the pumps that are very cleverly designed in this kit.
 
The chain pumps are lasered from MDF as a single piece with added cladding pear boards: nice. However, the "spout" isn't a spout exactly, just a square lump. After failing to make this look like a convincing square opening, I hacked this protuberance off and glued on a small slice of Evergreen Plastics 3/16" square white styrene extrusion. Say that 10 times! The CA held well and then I painted it in brown acrylic, two coats. Next time (ha-ha) I'll roughen-up the plastic's smooth surface so the paint adheres a little better.
 
The hand pumps too are clever: the mechanism is crafted with several pieces of small P/E which then attach to a walnut dowel. I wanted the hand pumps to stand out against their larger brothers behind them so I substituted a piece of birch dowel, stained it in weathered oak and glued-on the tiny square spouts at their base. The tiny spouts were made from a piece of 2mm square stock, very carefully drilled-out. I use a sharp awl to create a tiny starter hole, then use a thumbdrill (my favorites for many detailing tasks) to accomplish this.
 
Two photos show the addition of "fancy" moldings on the channels (the Brits spell this "moulding'). I fashioned these with 1.5mm strip pear that has been shaped into a routed profile with a small brass scraper (other photo). Moving toward mid-deck, the other close-up shows the addition of (copper) scuppers, also missing from the kit's bulwarks: I added six per side, per historical convention. One doesn't add these unless there are proper drain holes where the bulwarks meet the deck internally. I added the appropriate drain holes with a small drill into the added waterways which are 1.5mm strips of pear, shaped to a triangular section and affixed to the deck at the base of the spirketting. I put a daub of dark paint to the drain holes.
 
Lastly, for this update, two pictures show the added gangway supports and the fit of the gangway along the top edges of the mid-deck bulwarks. The white "stick" is temporarily wedging the gangway pattern down onto the supports to see how the tolerances add-up before trimming and gluing said pieces to the bulwarks. This is going to be a slightly tricky task to pull-off convincingly, but I think it can be done by taking time to get very exacting tolerances right - like so many other areas of this kit.
 
An observation, and certainly not a criticism: the tolerances to a large number of this kit's components demand an extra high attention level to take the time to fit things together -  that - in many circumstances is simply removing char. As I've noted elsewhere (Kit Reviews), this kit has numerous components (not just the P/E I'll also note) that have tolerances that measure +/- .005 on adjacent fittings. Gulp. Pay attention, builders.
 
Ron
 
 
 


 

More photos, explanations as follows...I'll call this set "Drilling and sawing"...necessities.
 
The rigging pulleys ( I believe the braces)  along the bulwark sides (2 places, each side) do align nicely with the built-up woodwork, but I chose to run a drill through them so that there is free clearance when it comes to rigging. Getting the line through the pulley UNDER the shroud stool will be lots o' fun!
 
First. drilling the catheads. Although not detailed in the manual, I know that when rigging rears it's head, I'll want to have the anchors trussed-up nicely near the cathead weighing lines. Good idea to have rope passing through the cathead for this. The small, cleverly built-up pieces have photo-etched tiny holes that...uh, go nowhere. That is, until I took my #72 thumb drill (.61mm dia) and pierced all six holes (love these little buggers). Make sure to drill on a flat surface and hold your drill as perpendicular as you can since it's easy to miss and drill off center, which would not be good.*
 
*Ignore this commentary should you be building the Sphinx kit as an "admiralty-styled" model without rigging, which I suspect some will do as it is designed at least partially for this specific modeling approach.
 
By test fitting the catheads into the foc'sle surround you'll quickly see that the "openings" for mounting these to the deck are inadequate and rather than try to coax an opening to fit the cathead into the bulwarks through via a square hole with a file and X-acto knife, I decided to saw a tight-fitting slot from the top nearly all the way down to the deck surface. Some may already note that there are TWO (2) additional wrap-around pear wood pieces that must also be mounted to this bulwark arrangement (to basically thicken it). These will also need the "slice" in order to accommodate the cathead(s). Shown here: the starboard cathead is temporarily plugged into place (purposeful tight tolerance here) and the port side shows the opening I've made for each. Be careful to not saw down too far on the exterior of the prow. I did pop-out the corresponding S & P gunwales to check that the depth-of-mounting for the steeply-angled catheads would be adequate to sit below this finishing pattern provided as a single, long piece (both sides). I'll see very soon how the cathead's external supports mate-up and meet as they should. 
 
There is some tricky modifying here to both the PLYWOOD as well as pear patterns; I have no idea why one would try to fiddle this area by opening the square holes to allow the catheads to fall into place properly (through three separate stacked pieces, on each side). Perhaps I'm missing something here, but when holding the gunwales to their respective mounting positions, the fit of the cathead to the deck and below the gunwale looks fine to me: no gaps, weird, wrong angles, etc.
 

Since I'm playing "catch-up" with my postings I'll mention that these first Build Log photos are NOT SEQUENTIAL. Obviously, I've spent a number of hours getting to point A (the first photo-😁)...and these photos I'll explain, but there may be random "backtracks" as I continue here.
 
The Gratings and the companionway close-up: the purpose here is highlighting the little black beads that simulate cannonballs which are a nice scale-accurate (or close to it) inclusion in the kit's "fittings" box. The little balls were too shiny for me; my 5 yo granddaughter  asked me: "Gampy, where did you get those cute little beads?"...uh... Good question, out of the mouth of babes. So I went back painted all of them FLAT BLACK MATTE. Just a tiny touch to each with a small brush. They now look like iron balls and not something random one finds in the beading aisle at Joanne's Fabrics. Not a big deal, but we collectively agonize over minor stuff like this; it's sort of what this hobby is all about- sort of. You don't need to look too close to see the ordnance as they appear in shiny bead black. 
 
Next photo, a close-up of deck goodies showing: A. a breech-rigged cannon; B. how I've finished my upper interior bulwarks (with the kit's included spirketting and laser cut deck clamp pieces); C. the hanging knees behind the quarterdeck beams; and D. the pump's iron fittings (also in flat black matte paint to show proper - non rusted - iron) and mid-deck bitts and a partial companionway (with the little "beads").
 
I am often asked how I get the nice warm look to most of my period models. Nothing unusual here: four shades of Minwax, available at Lowe's. Natural, (my favorite for most quality hardwoods I use and the extensive amount of pear that's included in this kit; Golden Oak for areas that I want to appear darker than the warm pink hue of pear and simulate a more accurate color for oak; Weathered Oak whose name speaks for itself. I used this on this kit's maple, one-piece deck patterns ("patterns" is a general name Vanguard gives to many pre-cut, precision lasered items in this kit). I've applied this stain to the gun deck. I may apply a "second coat" before I button-up everything amidships. A can not shown ( I misplaced it, somewhere...), Chestnut stain. This color I use on my deadeyes and most rigging blocks. I understand chestnut was used extensively by the British navy for this purpose - along with lignum vitae pulleys, both purpose-suited because of their inherent hardness. I'll stain my deadeyes soon, before they get mounted in their iron chains.
 
It should be noted that I paint and stain all my modeling components as I build. I am constantly opening and closing various jars and cans as I build. Simply stated, I make "aesthetic decisions" as I work; these are typically about color of individual component finishes - like cannon balls! I also depart quite often from proscribed building steps for a host of reasons which should become apparent as I develop this log. I need to mention that the build manual and the extensive plans that come with this kit are excellent and generally-speaking, the construction steps are sequenced in a manner that most will appreciate, especially intermediate level modelers.
 
Lastly, the tools I use to remove "char" from all the laser-cut wood in the kit. I've probably spent 60 hours alone (so far) removing "Char."🤯
My tools for this boring, but essential task: lots of emery/nail sanding files I buy at beauty supply stores. They last forever. But I buy new ones often as I frequently wash them and they soften and go limp after a while. Everyone knows there's not a lot you can do with a limp file.
When I'm de-charing, I often slap the file on my jeans (don't tell my wife) to unpack the fine sanding dust. Works. But they do eventually need to be taken to the sink. Moving on, two from my set of diamond-encrusted mini-files shown here. The tapered round one is especially useful. Worth the money. My soft, sable hair brush. The brush I continually use on all the various surfaces of the model for clean-up as I build. It is helpful to dust the char off tiny pieces like the miniscule hanging knees shown here. The curved stem piece appears to cast a shadow; actually that's the very dark "char" that needs to be diligently removed. Goodbye Char!
 
And, yes. I did leave it on all my cannon carriage wheels. Good idea, Jim! The manual says this is an option. I obviously agree.
 
More to come....
 
 

I am starting this Build Log midway in this very interesting and fun project. I'll start with a photo of my overall progress and then there will be the normal, very specific photos about build details I'd like to share with the reader's of this thread.
 
The first thing that I should note is that I am building this model as a sister ship to the Sphinx, HMS Camilla - same era. I have posted an earlier Kit Review of this Vanguard model that covered my early impressions which I can now amplify as well as offer additional insights as I've moved along on my build. I hope the followers of this thread will think it helpful; that is certainly my intention!
 
Here we go...

em·bel·lish·ment - /əmˈbeliSHmənt
plural noun: a decorative detail or feature added to something to make it more attractive.
 
Although the kit supplied rigging materials are quite adequate, I decided to use a slightly smaller size for the mid-deck companionway safety rope. The manual calls for rope that is .5mm. I substituted .35mm diameter rope from my stash and I liked the appearance much better: not least of all, the better color and the way it hangs, the "swag." As will become apparent in additional photos, I have concentrated on fine details of the mid-gun deck,  like the pumps that are very cleverly designed in this kit.
 
The chain pumps are lasered from MDF as a single piece with added cladding pear boards: nice. However, the "spout" isn't a spout exactly, just a square lump. After failing to make this look like a convincing square opening, I hacked this protuberance off and glued on a small slice of Evergreen Plastics 3/16" square white styrene extrusion. Say that 10 times! The CA held well and then I painted it in brown acrylic, two coats. Next time (ha-ha) I'll roughen-up the plastic's smooth surface so the paint adheres a little better.
 
The hand pumps too are clever: the mechanism is crafted with several pieces of small P/E which then attach to a walnut dowel. I wanted the hand pumps to stand out against their larger brothers behind them so I substituted a piece of birch dowel, stained it in weathered oak and glued-on the tiny square spouts at their base. The tiny spouts were made from a piece of 2mm square stock, very carefully drilled-out. I use a sharp awl to create a tiny starter hole, then use a thumbdrill (my favorites for many detailing tasks) to accomplish this.
 
Two photos show the addition of "fancy" moldings on the channels (the Brits spell this "moulding'). I fashioned these with 1.5mm strip pear that has been shaped into a routed profile with a small brass scraper (other photo). Moving toward mid-deck, the other close-up shows the addition of (copper) scuppers, also missing from the kit's bulwarks: I added six per side, per historical convention. One doesn't add these unless there are proper drain holes where the bulwarks meet the deck internally. I added the appropriate drain holes with a small drill into the added waterways which are 1.5mm strips of pear, shaped to a triangular section and affixed to the deck at the base of the spirketting. I put a daub of dark paint to the drain holes.
 
Lastly, for this update, two pictures show the added gangway supports and the fit of the gangway along the top edges of the mid-deck bulwarks. The white "stick" is temporarily wedging the gangway pattern down onto the supports to see how the tolerances add-up before trimming and gluing said pieces to the bulwarks. This is going to be a slightly tricky task to pull-off convincingly, but I think it can be done by taking time to get very exacting tolerances right - like so many other areas of this kit.
 
An observation, and certainly not a criticism: the tolerances to a large number of this kit's components demand an extra high attention level to take the time to fit things together -  that - in many circumstances is simply removing char. As I've noted elsewhere (Kit Reviews), this kit has numerous components (not just the P/E I'll also note) that have tolerances that measure +/- .005 on adjacent fittings. Gulp. Pay attention, builders.
 
Ron
 
 
 


 

I just realized I forgot to upload a photo for the hand pump after I added the scratched spout. You can also see the larger square spout on the chain pumps body; this one is 3/16" square so you can see that the hand pump spout is less than 1/8" square! Getting that round hole on center so it wouldn't break through the side of the square stock was nerve-wracking! I had to grip the tiny piece with a tweezer clamp when I drilled it.
Ron

Thanks, Mark. I'm going to try and show as many tools and materials as possible as I continue. I know this helps me when I read a log.
We all use different tools and approach building tasks in our own ways, so seeing how something is achieved is just as valuable as why it was done.
 
My next post (perhaps tomorrow) will be about how I approached solving a problem that had me in a slight dilemma. It's about the option that this kit offers for not making it as an Admiralty-styled ship model. Sneak preview shown here...
 
Ron

I just realized I forgot to upload a photo for the hand pump after I added the scratched spout. You can also see the larger square spout on the chain pumps body; this one is 3/16" square so you can see that the hand pump spout is less than 1/8" square! Getting that round hole on center so it wouldn't break through the side of the square stock was nerve-wracking! I had to grip the tiny piece with a tweezer clamp when I drilled it.
Ron

Welcome Jesse! There is a wealth of information and specialized knowledge here. This is matched by very amenable and helpful members. There are members here who build in both plastic and wood. You might be surprised by some of the "crossover" skills between the two disparate sides of the model making hobby!
 
Jump right in; the water's fine.😁
Ron