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CPDDET

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Everything posted by CPDDET

  1. CPDDET
    Welcome! Contributing and rendering help is what this site is all about. Dave
  2. CPDDET
    I use a clear spray acrylic matte finish over my painted parts. Adds some UV protection and makes the model easier to dust off.
  3. CPDDET
    Zinsser, Varathane and Minwax all make sanding sealers as well.
  4. CPDDET
    I have been using Delta Ceramcoat on basswood and found it to work quite well.
  5. CPDDET
    Good to hear things are moving along
  6. CPDDET
    Welcome aboard!
  7. CPDDET
    Glad to have you join us!
  8. CPDDET
    Beautiful!
  9. CPDDET
    Welcome! Be sure to keep us posted. Would love to see pics of your dads build and kit.
  10. CPDDET
    Looks great and good technique!
  11. CPDDET
    Finally got around to making the other half of the gooseneck for the foremast. Its been a while coming, LOL I began with a .125 square brass bar and milled it down to .085 Then used a #66 bit to drill a hole for the through bolt that would hold the two halves together Then drilled another hole into the face of the bar and two more holes into the side of the bar Then, using a file, joined the two holes to form a slot Checked the fit of the two halves Then drilled a hole straight down into the bar to accommodate a piece of brass rod that will be used to attach the gooseneck to the boom I attached the two halves with a .8 mm bolt and nut and trimmed off the excess Then used a jeweler’s saw to cut the gooseneck from the bar Used CA to glue the brass rod into the back side of the gooseneck This is a picture of the finished gooseneck mounted (simulated) on a brass rod with a piece of dowel for the boom. The boom can swivel port to starboard, slide up and down the brass rod and the gooseneck will allow the boom to lift after the downhaul is set
  12. CPDDET
    During my days of learning to sail through classes with the ASA, we learned to use a reef knot to secure the 2 ends of the reef lines. This is a common knot also known as a square knot. Easy to tie: right hand over left and then left hand over right.
  13. CPDDET
    Nice thinking outside the box! Dave
  14. CPDDET
    Welcome! Lots of great modelers here. Looking forward to seeing your builds Dave
  15. CPDDET
    Looks excellent!
  16. CPDDET
    Always nice to get ideas/ advice from a master like yourself. Thanks!
  17. CPDDET
    Welcome! While you will find a treasure trove of information here, we all will benefit from your experience as well. Dave
  18. CPDDET
    They are very susceptible to side shock
  19. CPDDET
    And fairly inexpensive
  20. CPDDET
    My mind is still dwelling on this, crazy huh? Another cutting method might be a very thin cutoff disk in a dermal tool? I have some of these disks, very thin and quite fragile. But they cut beautifully. I'll check the name and post it.
  21. CPDDET
    After some thought it may help to dab a bit of CA on the dowel after wrapping the wire. This would aid in holding things while making the cut. Afterwards just drop the dowel and wire into acetone to dissolve the CA.
  22. CPDDET
    Hmm. Cutting with any kind of nippers will not provide a truly flat surface to butt against each other, if that's desirable. Never tried using a fine tooth jewelers saw or razor saw but that might work. But would have to make the cut while the wire is still wrapped around the dowel or drill bit shank. There would also be some loss of material (the kerf of the saw blade) causing you to end up with a smaller ID than desired. However, using a slightly larger dowel / drill bit shank could compensate for that. Perfection may not be attainable?
  23. CPDDET
    I find wrapping wire around the shank of a properly sized drill bit works best for me. The real challenge is keeping the diameter of the wire to scale. If the actual ring was made from 1/2 inch diameter, round, metal stock, then at scale the diameter would be 1/128 inch? Probably 36 - 40 gauge wire?
  24. CPDDET
    Looking good!
  25. CPDDET
    Welcome to the group!

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