CPDDET
-
Posts
1,053 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by CPDDET
-
Bryan, welcome to this very rewarding and sometimes frustrating hobby. I'm sure you will find all the help you need here. Dave
-
Good evening from New Jersey USA!
CPDDET replied to Funkingonuts's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome, Mike! -
There are metal bars that protect the skylight glass. I was on Bluenose II a few years back and took a picture. Now if I could only find the photo.
-
There have been several different methods by different modelers for the windows / bars. Check out other build logs. I used straight pins for the bars. Some people used microscope glass slides for the windows.
-
Welcome Paul, good to have you aboard.
-
Welcome Tom, I'm sure you'll find help and some interesting build logs here. Dave
-
Nice, clean crafting on your first model. You look to be a natural! Dave
-
Welcome Mark, lots of help to be found here. Dave
-
Welcome home, sailor!
-
Welcome. I'm sure, with help from this community, you will be successful. You may want to seek out advice on the best order of steps to follow. Dave
-
Made the first part of the assembly that will attach the fore boom to the foremast, a small link with opposing holes. After doing measurements I drew out my plan on graph paper at a much larger scale, something I didn’t do at the start of my build but have learned the hard way it’s very necessary for me. I started with a piece of 1/8 inch square brass stock in the mill and drilled opposing holes with a #66 bit. This hole size will accommodate the 1/32 brass round stock which the link slides onto. I then used a small end mill to shape the opposing side to the proper thickness. Then used small escapement files to finish shaping the piece. A handheld vice really helped to hold the small part while filing. Tomorrow is News Years Day, and a football day as well, so probably wont do any further work till Monday at the earliest. Happy New Year to all!!
- 389 replies
-
- 6
-
-
-
- bluenose
- model shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Luckily your working with wood. Filler, sandpaper, files and such can help you recover. I had to tear out about a third of my hull planking and redo it. Recoveries can be a pain, but also a learning process and very gratifying knowing you have the skill to fix mistakes.
-
Tough to get it out of your blood, so to speak. Welcome back!
-
Google Table Saw books for beginners. Lots to choose from. Many with good reviews.
-
Have you tried YouTube for instructional videos?
-
Sounds like you're going about it the right way: doing research, taking your time and thinking ahead about how current decisions will effect future steps. The stantions on this model can be tricky but looks like you've got a handle on it. Keep up the fine work.
-
Last time I left my "assistant " in the shipyard unattended, I lost part of my transom to her sharp teeth
- 145 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Bluenose
- Model Shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Very nice build! And welcome to our little corner of the world. Between your past experience and the help available here, I doubt you'll have any problems with your next project. Dave
-
Next on my list was to make and install the brass inserts and the chafing plate for the boom jaws on the main and foremast. While I have decided to cut the mast short and skip the rigging (in order to save costs on the size of a display case) I did leave the masts long enough to mount the booms. After some careful measurements I cut a piece of .005 aluminum sheet to the proper size (.45 inches high and .87 inches wide). While not photographed, this width left the proper gap on the aft side of the mast. I picked up the aluminum sheets from UMM when I visited the model expo at the Dupage County Fairgrounds. In an attempt to make the aluminum look a bit more like galvanized metal, I scuffed it up with some 400 grit paper and sprayed it with Easy Off Oven Cleaner. Not quite the look I wanted but not too bad either. I toyed with the idea of using a rivet wheel to simulate the nails that would hold the chafing plate to the mast, but at this scale I decided against it. For the brass band inserts I used an automotive feeler gauge to measure the gap. Then cut a .032 wide strip from a .005 brass shim stock I had on hand. This, and the aluminum, cut very easily with a utility knife. I used fast epoxy to attach the plate and band inserts. Now it’s on to building the gooseneck for the foremast, which looks a bit challenging.
- 389 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- bluenose
- model shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Welcome! You'll find lots of help here if you ask for it. Looking forward to your build log. Dave
-
Welcome, you're at the right place for a positive learning experience. Dave
-
Welcome! Looking forward to seeing your work.
-
Nice workmanship there! Welcome to the forum. Dave
Our Emblem ®
