CPDDET
-
Posts
1,070 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by CPDDET
-
Will start doing rigging soon on my Bluenose. I understand that the lines should first be coated with a 50 -50 solution of water and white glue . I also read the lines should be pre stretched. Wondered what is the best way to accomplish this. I'm building the MS model #2130 which comes with several different diameter size lines. Not sure what material these lines are made from. Any help would much appreciated. Dave
-
Journal on! While it may look difficult there are many who came before you with little to no skills. Trust me when I say most anyone can be successful in building these models. Remember, it's more about the journey than the destination.
-
Hey Tanner. Sounds like a fun project. If you could post pictures along with your questions it would be a big help. Lots of experienced people on this forum who will be more than happy to help you along.
-
Thanks ,Ed. I'll consider things as I finish up the remaining plates. -
Thanks Ed, that's quite a compliment coming from someone with your skills. I didn't want the plates to adhere only to the paint on the hull so decided to sand off the paint and attach them directly to the wood. Used a #74 drill bit to "tap" holes through the plate and into the hull after securing it with gel CA. The "bolts" are brass nails. Shaft .026 and head .055. The ones I had were much too long so I cut them down to about 1/8 inch. Dipped the end in gel CA and used pin push pliers to set them flush. At this point not sure if I should do the rigging for the bowsprit now or leave it until I get to rigging the rest of the ship. Lots to do before I get to that point. Dave
-
Been awhile since my last update. I was stupid enough to dash out onto the wet patio in flip-flops and found out 71 year old's aren’t supposed to do the splits. Injured my right hamstring and just now getting back to normal. I used the mill to make the links needed for the bowsprit rigging. Sorry I didn’t take more pictures, sometimes I get so involved in the work I forget to take photos. I cut a strip of 1/64th thick brass and used double stick Nitto tape to mount it to a piece of wood. Then used the mill to cut out the centers of each link. Used my rotary tool with a cut off disk to separate the individual links. A quick filing rounded off the outside edges to finish them off. Then it was time to assemble the shackles, turnbuckle and to attach them to the bowsprit. Used small brass bolts for the shackle pins. These close-up photos make things look a bit rough but from normal viewing distance they look pretty good. Just need some paint touchup. Had to sand off the hull paint to firmly attach the bobstay plates. Here’s a pic of the installed plates with the links. Still need to repaint. So it’s onward and upward, have to make the plates and staples for the backrope now. Dave
- 389 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- bluenose
- model shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Happy trails, Pat!
-
Welcome! There are a lot of newbies here as well as some very accomplished model builders. You will find the community friendly and helpful so never fear asking questions. Dave
-
Saw this on Ebay and was wondering what the history of it was. Looks to me massed produced because of the part numbers on it but would be easy to build your own.
-
Welcome! Always great to have new members!
-
Getting closer and closer to the end, Ed. And looking very nice!
- 96 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- model shipways
- bluenose
- (and 1 more)
-
Finally got back to building the turnbuckles. Life gets in the way this time of year with spring yard work and camping trips. I really wanted the turnbuckles to be open on both sides, as a real one would be. The challenge was to open one side and then rotate the brass tube as close to 180 degrees as possible to open the opposite side. I began by drilling a 1/32 hole in one end of a 1/16th brass tube, about 3 inches long. I used the tried and true “block method” to get it centered on the tube. Then drilled a 1/32 hole in a piece of brass scrap and used an old 1/32 drill bit for an alignment pin. Tacked down the rest of the tube with CA to hold it firmly in place. Put that in the mill and, using an end mill, cut down to open one side. After a soak in acetone, I flipped the tube over and opened the other side. Then used my rotary tool with a cut off disk to separate the individual pieces. I fashioned the simulated “bolts” from 22 gauge wire. Now I have to clean up all the pieces, and the previously made shackles and get the either blackened or painted black before assembling.
- 389 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- bluenose
- model shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Wow! You're a busy boy. 😊
-
Agreed! She came out very nice. Has a weathered look.
-
Welcome! And thanks for giving us a peek into your background. As for your Mayflower: If there is any site that can assist you this one is it. Tons of experience here and a great group of friendly, helpful shipwrights. Dave
-
I have begun using solder paste. It enables one to carefully place minute amounts of solder on the work piece. With a low flow temp, it flows almost immediately. I'm using a HAKKO soldering station which allow me to set the temp of the iron.
-
Welcome Rob, it will be wonderful to have your experience available to us all. Dave
-
I think Constructo is no longer in business. Web site is no longer available. I agree, Ebay might be your best bet.
-
See the link I posted to birchbaysider build log of this boat. Perhaps he still has the plans?
-
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/6310-pilar-by-birchbaysider-finished-constructo-127-ernest-hemingways-fishing-boat-1934/
-
Great find, Kieth!
-
Jim, don't know where you're located but, if your going to bash a kit, it would be great if you could find a current model and get lots of pictures.
Our Emblem ®
