CPDDET

Thanks! Will be following Toni Levines build log, among others, for the NRG Half Hull model. I've seen Toni's finished piece as she attends our model shipwrights club meetings and was very impressed. Hope mine comes out as well.

Thanks Eric, I'll put your build log on my list.

After taking my Bluenose as far as I wanted I decided it was time to learn proper hull planking. I ordered the kit ( https://thenrgstore.org/products/half-hull-planking-project) from NRG some time ago and will spend the next week or so gathering what I need for this build. I will also be reviewing the various build logs of other other shipwrights to gain further insights. Since I now have some experience I've decided to upgrade my material to Boxwood rather than using the Basswood that comes with the kit. Hopefully I would ruin too much of it. 😆 Any advice or suggestions from those who have built this kit is always appreciated! Dave

So this will be my final post on this build as this is as far as I'm taking this model. If I had to start this hobby again I wouldn't have chosen this particular kit. This build was far more complex than I anticipated. Because of its complexity, it was truly a baptism by fire. I always viewed this one as a "learning build" so many of the finishes aren't uniform. Some bright brass and some blackened, some painted parts and some stained with different finishes, and some left natural. But I did learn a lot about many different facets of this hobby; woodworking, metal working, painting, staining and so on. It also forced me to invest in the various "tools of the trade". All and all I'm fairly satisfied considering this is my first build. I expect to improve on my skills and believe that what I learned during this adventure will only make future builds that much more enjoyable. My next endeavor will be to complete the NRG Half Hull Planking kit. Ill leave this current build with some picture............

Building the main boom. Started off by using the cordless drill and sandpaper method to taper the main boom. First step in making the yoke was to cut out the printed plan and glue it to a piece of 1/8th inch stock. I used white glue for this. Then drilled out the slot that will fit around the mast. After cutting the piece in half with a fine cut pull saw, I used the disk sander to remove the excess material. Then used files and sand paper to finish off the pieces, gave them 2 coats of amber shellac and, using white glue again, stuck the bolt pattern onto the 2 pieces Used the mill to drill the bolt holes on each piece. These didn’t come out as well as I wanted as they aren’t in an exact line, but they are acceptable. I shouldn’t have trusted the pattern on the plans. Cut some small brass nails down to the proper length and inserted them into the drilled holes. Had to use the pin vice and a slightly larger bit to make the holes larger to accept the rope. But the smaller holes acted as a guide to keep things straight. Used CA on the tip of the rope and white glue on the rest to stiffen it and threaded it into holes. Tied off one side. Made the clapper and glued it to the end of the boom. Then glued the 2 yoke halves onto the boom. I used Titebond Quick and Thick for this so it was necessary to sand a flat onto each side of the boom and to prep the side of the yoke halves that would come into contact with the boom. Since the clapper was already in place it was easy to flatten the sides of the boom 180 degrees apart, using the clapper as a guide. Will do some clean up and touch up the amber shellac when the glue completely dries. While I have cut the masts short and won’t be doing the rigging, I will add 5 metal bands to the main boom per the plans. But these will be for decorative purpose only. Now to move on to the bowsprit rigging, which is a far as I will be taking this model.

Welcome!

Welcome! Yes, this group has been an immeasurable asset to me as well.

Thanks Bob, good information there. Dave

Thanks! Will be starting a new build soon and contemplating using dyed shellac rather than different types (colors) of wood or paint. My thoughts are to use the same type of wood throughout and doing tinted shellac test colors with that wood before I begin. Going to have to learn alot about shellac, universal tints and how to mix them. Dave

Has anyone played around with tinting shellac? I would appreciate hearing about your experience, procedure or any advice you could pass along. Dave

Welcome! Very impressive work your doing.

Welcome back to the fold!

Welcome! All the help you will ever need can be found here.

https://mainemaritime.edu/waterfront/schooner-bowdoin/ Perhaps some help can be found at the email addresses posted here.

I believe I got a set of 3 plates from Micro Mark for about $17. https://www.micromark.com/Artesania-Latina-27300-Micro-Shapers-Set-A-3-Plates?gclid=CjwKCAjw04yjBhApEiwAJcvNoR63cw32-NOTLCL_VQ2n-SnBrivpcjabL7pR4VKYouNLh6bxcoJ0XxoCHccQAvD_BwE

In my opinion, I would sacrifice a bit on exact dimensions in order to produce better detail on the workpiece. But that's just me. I don't know of scrappers that come in decimal or fraction, only in mm. I've used these with good success after experimenting using at different angles to the workpiece. I've also learned to work pieces longer than what's needed. At one end you need material to hang on to and at the finished end I've always had to trim off a bit to get a consistent shape in the finished piece.

This is great advice! If I were to begin again it's what I would do. I would also recommend the half hull planking project offered by Nautical Research Guild. Planking a hull correctly can be a tricky business and it's a skill that will serve you well in future builds. That said, welcome aboard! Dave

I have used them on cherry wood with great results. Don't know about walnut.

Welcome, while you will find all the help you need here, we are all looking forward with what you can share with us as well. Dave

Since the plans called for these straps to be galvanized steel, I decided to make them out of aluminum instead of brass. Started with 2 pieces of 1/8 inch thick plywood Glued (CA) a piece .016 thick aluminum between the pieces of plywood and clamped until set up Then cut .05 wide strips on the Burns saw, needed 4 but cut a few extras After soaking the cut pieces in acetone to release them I marked where I needed to drill holes for the bolts. The far left mark is the cut off. Then drilled holes with a #77 bit After shaping the 4 halves I mounted the gooseneck to the bands and the bands to the foremast with .05mm bolts and nuts. Touched the bolts with CA to hold them in place then added a coat of amber shellac. Dropped both the foremast and mainmast into the model, but did not glue in place yet. Now it’s onto the foremast boom….

https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series-with-Tools-and-Paint_p_5290.html

If I were just starting I would do the 3 kits, in order, offered by model shipways. I would also do the half hull planking kit offered by the Nautical Research Guild.

Planning on it if the creek don't rise and I'm still on the green side of the grass.

There is a product made by Flitz out of Wisconsin. Supposedly spray on and rince, no scrubbing needed. I have a very badly oxidized brass kick plate on our front door that hasn't been cleaned in 15 years. So I'm going to try this stuff. Brasso had little to no effect. I'll keep you posted.

That's quite a statement. You may want to sleep on it. Can the copper be cleaned? Would you consider applying Renaissance Wax and leaving it bright after cleaning? Or cleaning and then using a different method to "age" it? Just wondering what options you have available.