CPDDET

Always good to have a plan.

Excellent craftsmanship, Pat. Looks really nice! Dave

According to the plans, the ratchet quadrant should fit over the ratchet gear on the windlass. The windlass ratchet gear is clad on both sides with a solid disk and ratchet teeth extend a bit beyond the edge of these disks. It took me awhile to come up with an easy way to achieve the proper fit of the quadrant over the ratchet gear. I sandwiched a 3/64 piece of basswood between 2 pieces of .010 brass sheets. The brass was easily cut with scissors and I made the pieces big enough to handle when done. This created a lot of scrap but made things much easier. At the end of the process the wood core could be filed out just a bit so that the brass outside pieces would fit over the teeth of the ratchet gear. Gluing the three pieces together, I wrapped them with wax paper. Then clamped them between 2 pieces of ¼ inch basswood and let dry. After making a copy of the plan I cut out a picture of the quadrant and taped it to the sandwiched plate. Using a ¼ inch Dremel sanding disk mounted in the mill, I formed the curve of the quadrant. While sill mounted in on the mill, I drilled out the hole which will be needed for the linkage to connect it to the brake beam. Using my WeCheer rotary tool and a separating disk I cut the quadrant from the sandwiched plate. This is the finished quadrant of which I made two. After cleaning up the brass I blackened with Casey Brass Black and added the rings for the linkage. Now I can finish building the Sampson post and install the linkage between the quadrants and brake beam.

Thanks, Nirvana!

Being obsessive compulsive can be really expensive. 🤪

Sorry it’s been so long since I posted and update. But sometimes life just gets busy and priorities change. Anyway I finally finished the Brake Beam. This is a photo of the plans with the Brake Beam in the upper left. This is the ugly white metal part that came with the kit. I found it totally unacceptable and decided to make my own. Unfortunately I didn’t do a very good job of documenting my process with photos, although I did take a few. Sometimes I get so involved in the build process I forget to pick up the camera. Following is a few photos of the milling process. After filing to shape I added some square brass tube to the ends of the arm and the small pieces below them. Then added the rings that will be part of the connecting links to the Ratchet Quadrants. So next will be the Ratchet Quadrants (see the first photo, center left). These will be a bit tricky as the core of the quadrant fits over the ratchet gear teeth and the sides of it ride on the clad disks on either side of the ratchet gear.

Sorry to hear that. But best to take care of business. Wishing you a speedy and full recovery.

Sorry to hear about your shoulder. Hope the MRI results show nothing major. Hoisting those beers can be tough. But I can relate to your feelings of guilt. Spring cleaning and yard work has my progress delayed and my Bluenose is feeling neglected. Here's wishing you a quick and complete recovery.

If anyone is going to purchase a lathe or mill, or if you have recently purchased either of these I highly recommend viewing these videos. Very well done and very informative. While they are based on Sherline products, many of the topics will apply to other brands as well. http://www.minimachining.com/

Nice work! Well worth your time and effort. I've learned, and continue to learn from your build log. Thanks for sharing. Dave

I believe this process was covered somewhat in an issue of the Nautical Research Journal.

I assume your using a lathe. Wood or metal lathe? Brand? I have a Sherline lathe and could be of some assistance if your using that. I set the cutting edge of the tool even with the center of the piece I'm turning. Speed & feed are determined by the material being turned. Your lathe manufacturer should be of help with your questions.

Wondering if anyone is using a pantograph to copy sections of build plans? Some items on my build plans are shown at twice scale size. Thought it might work using a pantograph to trace at scale size, cut out the item and then glue / past scale size drawing to whatever medium being used (wood, plastic, metal) before fashioning the item.

How wonderful to have such a beautiful hand down. And knowing the history makes it even more precious. A family heirloom for sure! Thanks for sharing.

I have been very happy with my 2 sided japanese pull saw. One side for soft wood and one for soft wood. It's a flush cut saw so the blade is very flexible. 5 inch blade isn't too cumbersome. Cuts quick and clean. https://www.amazon.com/SUIZAN-Japanese-Flush-Hardwood-Softwood/dp/B07T9K59D1

Hey Ed, my first ship build as well. Welcome to the wonderful, tedious, maddening world of model ship building. I'm almost positive I got the port lights at Modelers Central. They are in Australia so took a while to get them. You may want to ask around on one of the forums for someplace in the US. Many years ago I lived in Sugar Grove. Now I'm just south of Huntley. Dave

Your ability to think outside the box always amazes me. I squirrel away your great ideas as I'm sure I will adapt them to my build at some point. Great work as always!

Seems like there is always something that causes work delays. There are many weeks when I only manage a few hours in the shipyard

Thanks for posting your findings on the blocks. I'm taking notes.

Yep, Richard. I'm really starting to enjoy the challenge. And the satisfaction as well.

Thanks!

🤣

Thanks, Pat. And Happy St. Paddy's Day! Now have to decide about the hand brake beam that mounts on the sampson post. Use the white metal one that came with the kit or fashion my own. Decisions, decisions, decisions.......

Fine work as always, Richard. I just posted yesterday on my windlass and still have to fashion the bilge pumps. Then it's on to the chain plates. I'll be sure to check your previous posts as I proceed. By the way, what type of solder are you using? Dave