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CPDDET

NRG Member
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Everything posted by CPDDET

  1. Seems like there is always something that causes work delays. There are many weeks when I only manage a few hours in the shipyard
  2. Thanks for posting your findings on the blocks. I'm taking notes.
  3. Yep, Richard. I'm really starting to enjoy the challenge. And the satisfaction as well.
  4. Thanks, Pat. And Happy St. Paddy's Day! Now have to decide about the hand brake beam that mounts on the sampson post. Use the white metal one that came with the kit or fashion my own. Decisions, decisions, decisions.......
  5. Fine work as always, Richard. I just posted yesterday on my windlass and still have to fashion the bilge pumps. Then it's on to the chain plates. I'll be sure to check your previous posts as I proceed. By the way, what type of solder are you using? Dave
  6. My next step was to make the 3 gears. The 2 smaller ones also needed banding. I made the 2 small gears and the bands for them. Drilled the proper size hole in some stock brass on the lathe, cut them to the proper thickness and cut the bands as well. Then cut the gear teeth on the mill. In order to keep everything aligned during assembly I made a simple jig and glued the gears to their bands. I then made the pawl wheel out of wood and made the brass bands for that as well. Also made the 2 wood spacers that would fit on either side of the pawl wheel. Next I made the large gear wheel, no bands required for this one. The drum for the chain side required some shaping on the lathe as well as an end piece. For the “iron” whelps on the chain drum I used 1/32 square brass bar stock. Cut 8 pieces a bit longer than needed, bent the dog leg in them to accommodate the shape of the drum, blackened them and glued them in place on the drum. Then trimmed off the excess and blackened the cut ends. After staining the cherry wood to make it look a bit aged (Jacobean stain) and blackening all the brass pieces I was ready to assemble the windlass. I used the jig to keep everything in line as I glued. Then transferred the entire piece to the black painted axel, adding the supports as I did. To add some detail I placed 2 small blackened brass bolts on each supports.
  7. Just thinking about the cannon pic you posted. There is quite a difference in the bore size. Wondered which is closer to scale?
  8. I'm going to butt in here with a question. Being somewhat new to this hobby I'm still learning the terminology as I work on my POB Bluenose. I realize this post refers to a POF build and pretty much understand the question being asked. But what does "R+S" refer to?
  9. Thanks for the update. Both chain plates and masts are looking good.
  10. That's a shame. Hopefully you can do something with files to clean them up.
  11. Sounds like you're off to a great start. Glad the neighbors and condo board is cooperating, at least so far. Looking forward to seeing more of your handy work. Carry on!!
  12. Its well worth thinking things through. Its something I don't do enough of.
  13. I thought it best to build the windlass in sections with a 1/8 inch axel through each section. I’m going to post my progress as I proceed. I started off making the windlass drums, also called gypsy heads among other things. Because I had plenty of cherry wood on hand I decided to use it. I first turned down a piece of ½ inch dowel rod to the largest dimension since this piece is slightly tapered. Then turned a slight 5 degree taper. Once that was done I shaped it with Escapement files and drilled a 1/8 inch hole for the axel. Finished pieces before final sanding. Next was the rope hawser side of the windlass. This is also tapered at about 5 degrees which I again did on the lathe, slightly tilting the headstock to achieve the taper. Then drilled the 1/8 inch hole for the axle. Here is the finished rope hawser drum I then cut and glued on the horizontal whelps. Instead of fitting small wood pieces between these whelps I decided to cap the right end (looking forward) with a small disk. While this isn’t exactly what the plans call for, I thought it was a nice clean look. For the whelps on the left end of the drum, I used a scraper to make the proper shape on a 2 inch piece of cherry wood and then cut it to the proper thickness and height. It was much easier to use a temporary axle while gluing the whelps in place. Here is a picture of the rope hawser drum with the whelps and windlass drum on the temporary axle. Moving on
  14. Great work Richard. Thanks for going into detail on how you accomplish your work. I like the clamp you used to hold the .016 flat bar for filing, something you made for yourself?
  15. Thanks for your comment. Coming from someone with your skills it means a lot to me.
  16. All your posts, tips, clues and problem solving are a big help. Love your woodwork!
  17. is there a difference? 😜 Still a beginner at this. But yes, Im a bit of a tool nut. Just want to make my job easier and continue to learn. The Bluenose has, and continues to be, a real learning tool. Maybe someday I'll have enough confidence to build as well as you do. Will be reviewing your video on building a windlass as well before I start that. Isnt it great the way we inspire each other to reach deep down and improve our skills? Thanks for all your tips.
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