CPDDET

Always good to walk away, sip some wine and let things simmer in the back of one's mind. A solution usually pops up.

I'm looking forward to getting proficient with it. Over the next few days I'll attempt to make the deck pumps from a brass rod. Working on the drawing now.

Ah, linen tester! Readily available and economically priced. Thanks!

Nice recovery, Pat.

Thanks Pat, I will in interested in seeing it. D

Druxey, that's what I have been using but find it a bit clumsy in some situations. Thought there might be a better method I wasn't aware of. Too bad they don't make these in a smaller size. D

Thanks betaqdave. That will work when transferring directly to the workpiece. But how about when that divider distance needs to be translated to a decimal measurement? Using the lathe I need to dial in the measurement so I need the measurement from the plan in decimal form. Dave

Im wondering what tools and techniques others are using when taking measurement from ship plans. I'm slowly, very slowly, moving toward scratch building and finding taking accurate measurements from ships plans a bit clumsy. For instance: I will be making my own deck pumps for Bluenose, turing them from brass stock on a Sherline lathe. This is a small part and the lines on the plans can be quite thick. Do I measure from the outside of the line? The inside on the line? The center of the line? What tools are others using to make the very fine measurements accurately? Thanks in advance for any advice passed along. Dave

I'm really impressed with your progress. Crisp, clean, well defined. I'm jealous 😜. Carry on Patrick!

Jig was a great idea. When I did my deck o made somewhat of a mess with the graphite. Never worked with boxwood or pear but I'm sure looking forward to it. The hell with the sanding, you can do that when you feel like it. 😄😁

🤣

Hopefully just a glue failure and nothing more than that.

Looks like the block slipping isn't really a big deal. Inside planking looks very nice. Dave

Every time my better half gets her nails done she brings one or two of these home. Due to covid the nail tech can't reuse them. Soft sponge 120 grit great for sanding between coats or finishing. Soft enough to mold to different shapes and can be cut to any shape / size. https://www.nailwholesale.com/products/yellow-nail-buffer-4-way-grit-120.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAhs79BRD0ARIsAC6XpaWjC9iqQV6ObSwVbVaz_rMsLazMywAO0q3sRmy3TmUoeXFfHsXFJ8UaAp6_EALw_wcB

Looking great, Pat! Additional sanding is in all our futures, just comes with the territory I guess.

Another option. If you already have a lathe. https://www.sherline.com/product/30503053-vertical-milling-column/

I currently have a dremel tool mounted on a dremel work station (drill press). My plan is to upgrade to a mill to replace the drill press. Seems to me you can drill with a mill but can't mill with a drill press.

It is. Sherline 4400, 3.5 inch, 17 inches between centers.

Couldn’t get the boom buffer placed under the aft rail so I decided to tear it out and start over. As others on this site I really didn’t like the white metal buffer that came with the kit so I decided to make my own. A big hats off to Richard (Retiredguy) for all his help. We exchanged many emails and he was kind enough to send me some parts he had left over when he built his boom buffer. While I didn’t use them, I was able to gain some insight and ideas from his expertise. I also borrowed a trick from Pat, (Overworked724) to drill holes in brass tubing. Thanks Pat! I have a Dremel tool mounted to a Dremel workstation drill press. Not the most accurate tool but it will suffice until I get a new mill. Using a block of wood, I drilled a hole to fit the brass tube. Inserting the tube in this hole, I then drilled down through one side of the tube so could attach the “legs”. I cut the tube pieces to proper length after drilling. I used a small piece of tubing for the center and the 2 drilled pieces for the end pieces. Soldered the “legs” on the end pieces and soldered small diameter wire for form loops then added the ring. Before finishing the main cabin I noticed the sailing version of this model required 1/32 solid wood hand rails on both sides of the cabin. I took “solid wood” to mean no stand offs so I cut the hand rails on the Byrnes saw and glued them in place. Since the roof of the cabin was finished with tinted poly, CA glue worked just fine. After staining the handrails and installing the side port lights I mounted the rest of the fixtures on the cabin, then mounted the remaining fixtures to the aft end of the deck. Next up was the aft hatch. First I need to create a “shelf” that would hold the hatch cover flush with the sides of the hatch housing. I did this using the saw. After cutting the four sides to the proper size I mitered the ends and glued them together to form the housing. To create the small cove I made a shallow cut with a razor saw. Using this cut as a guide I used a 1/32 inch ball tip stylus to impress the cove into the wood. The cut with the razor saw keeps the stylus from wanting to follow the grain and wander. To plank the hatch cover I first measured the inside of the housing and transferred that measurement to the saw. I did this for each plank individually. After placing (not gluing) the hatch cover on the housing I sanded it down to match the edge of the housing and removed it for finishing. I could have hand painted the housing but using the airbrush gives a much nicer finish. But have to admit it longer to set up and clean the airbrush than it did to do the actual painting. Used the same tinted poly to finish the hatch cover and once dry I assembled the two pieces and added the eyebolts. Will be taking a few days off from the build to study up on my new power tool, a Sherline lathe.

My vote goes for the Byrne's sander. Have had mine for a couple months now and find it very useful. If your scratch building, the Byrne's thickness sander is also a great choice.

Very nice catch there, Pat. Looks like you're all set for a most enjoyable winter.

I decided on this vice as I continue to build on upgrading my power tools. https://www.sherline.com/product/3575-milling-vise-w-rotating-base/

Thanks to all for the help and advice! Dave

I have a dremel work station to which I added a XY table. Now I need to purchase a drill press vice or machinist vice. Not sure how to mount this on the XY table or which vice to purchase. There are several options in the Micro Mark catalog but I'm just getting more and more confused. Any specific advice would be greatly appreciated.

Super stuff, as always Richard. I'll be waiting for your book to come out.😜