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Everything posted by CPDDET
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My next step was to make the 3 gears. The 2 smaller ones also needed banding. I made the 2 small gears and the bands for them. Drilled the proper size hole in some stock brass on the lathe, cut them to the proper thickness and cut the bands as well. Then cut the gear teeth on the mill. In order to keep everything aligned during assembly I made a simple jig and glued the gears to their bands. I then made the pawl wheel out of wood and made the brass bands for that as well. Also made the 2 wood spacers that would fit on either side of the pawl wheel. Next I made the large gear wheel, no bands required for this one. The drum for the chain side required some shaping on the lathe as well as an end piece. For the “iron” whelps on the chain drum I used 1/32 square brass bar stock. Cut 8 pieces a bit longer than needed, bent the dog leg in them to accommodate the shape of the drum, blackened them and glued them in place on the drum. Then trimmed off the excess and blackened the cut ends. After staining the cherry wood to make it look a bit aged (Jacobean stain) and blackening all the brass pieces I was ready to assemble the windlass. I used the jig to keep everything in line as I glued. Then transferred the entire piece to the black painted axel, adding the supports as I did. To add some detail I placed 2 small blackened brass bolts on each supports.
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That's a shame. Hopefully you can do something with files to clean them up.
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No dimes left after purchasing the lathe and mill. 😄😄
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I thought it best to build the windlass in sections with a 1/8 inch axel through each section. I’m going to post my progress as I proceed. I started off making the windlass drums, also called gypsy heads among other things. Because I had plenty of cherry wood on hand I decided to use it. I first turned down a piece of ½ inch dowel rod to the largest dimension since this piece is slightly tapered. Then turned a slight 5 degree taper. Once that was done I shaped it with Escapement files and drilled a 1/8 inch hole for the axel. Finished pieces before final sanding. Next was the rope hawser side of the windlass. This is also tapered at about 5 degrees which I again did on the lathe, slightly tilting the headstock to achieve the taper. Then drilled the 1/8 inch hole for the axle. Here is the finished rope hawser drum I then cut and glued on the horizontal whelps. Instead of fitting small wood pieces between these whelps I decided to cap the right end (looking forward) with a small disk. While this isn’t exactly what the plans call for, I thought it was a nice clean look. For the whelps on the left end of the drum, I used a scraper to make the proper shape on a 2 inch piece of cherry wood and then cut it to the proper thickness and height. It was much easier to use a temporary axle while gluing the whelps in place. Here is a picture of the rope hawser drum with the whelps and windlass drum on the temporary axle. Moving on
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Thanks for your comment. Coming from someone with your skills it means a lot to me.
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All your posts, tips, clues and problem solving are a big help. Love your woodwork!
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is there a difference? 😜 Still a beginner at this. But yes, Im a bit of a tool nut. Just want to make my job easier and continue to learn. The Bluenose has, and continues to be, a real learning tool. Maybe someday I'll have enough confidence to build as well as you do. Will be reviewing your video on building a windlass as well before I start that. Isnt it great the way we inspire each other to reach deep down and improve our skills? Thanks for all your tips.
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Learning curves, learning curves, learning curves have really slowed me down, that along with what seems like constant snow clearing. Using the grinder in the garage in close to or below zero temps hasn’t been much fun either. LOL First was assembling the new mill, reading all instructions and playing with scrap material and mill attachments until I became somewhat comfortable with it. Second was learning to use a grinder to sharpen and /or make lathe tools. My right hand lath tool needed sharpening and I totally destroyed it attempting to do this. I did have a backup right hand tool but decided to take a ¼ inch high speed steel blank and make my own. Yes, I could just have purchased new tools but my lathe and mill mentor, Retired Guy, said sooner or later I would need to learn the necessary grinder skills if I ever wanted to make my own custom lathe tools. And, as I have been telling myself lately, if not now, when? So I read the tool making instructions that came with the Sherline product and used the backup right hand tool as a template. Success! I was able to make my own right hand tool that worked beautifully. Besides, the cost of blanks is about half of premade tools. Third was learning how to make my own gearwheels using the gear cutting tool holder I purchased with the new mill. There were several failures and for a time I thought I was going to run out of brass rod before the job was finished. But persistence, slowing down and being as being precise as possible paid off. Also a big help was a video I got from the Midwest Model Shipwrights video library. On this video, Doc Williams explained how he built the windlass for his Charles W Morgan, part of which was making gear wheels. This is what I got with the kit for the counter shaft assembly. My first thought was to cut the gearwheels off, clean them up with escapement files, and drill a 1/32 hole for a new shaft. But that didn’t work as well as I liked so I took a deep breath and made my own gearwheels. Starting with a piece of ¼ inch brass stock, I loaded it into the lathe and turned it down to same diameter as the white metal gearwheel. That’s my self-made right hand cutting tool in the pic. Then I loaded the piece on the mill. On the right side of the picture is a 4 jaw chuck, mounted on a rotary table which is mounted on a right angle attachment. The rotary table allows a circle to be divided into 3600 parts. I just divided the diameter of each gear by the number of needed teeth, 8 for the small gear and 12 for the large gear. Then, using the handle on the rotary table, I rotated the piece the necessary amount for each cut. The cutting tool I used is actually made for cutting threads. The reason there are 2 cutting tools mounted in the gear cutting holding tool is because the tools are 1/8th inch vs the standard ¼ inch the holder is made for. Sherline advised me that when using 1/8th inch tools to mount 2 of them to make up the 1/8th inch difference. I cut the teeth .150 inches deep. This is a picture of what the large gear looks like after finishing in the mill. Then put the piece back into the lathe and drilled a 1/32 hole for the shaft. The rear cutoff tool made easy work of cutting the gear to the proper thickness. Here is the finished large gear And the finished small gear Bothe gears next to the white metal gears that came with the kit. I was, thankfully, able to salvage the stands. My skills are nowhere near ready to make these. I didn’t have any 1/32 brass rod but I did have some 1/32 copper wire (unknown gauge) so used that for the axel shaft. Here is the piece assembled. While this assembly probably should have been entirely black, I have previously left lots of brass pieces unpainted. So I went half way and blackened the frames only. I’m always conflicted about blackening the brass pieces. Kind of like painting over beautiful woodwork. Next up is the windlass. This is the piece that came with the kit, which isn’t very pretty. The cuts in the center for the pawl are hardly visible. So I’m going to attempt to build my own windlass. Looks like more learning curves in my future. But if not now, when?
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