CPDDET

Sorry to hear about your frustrations. But I can easily relate. Sometimes I find it better to just walk away from my build rather than trying to push through the problem. My mind continues to ponder on the problem even away from the shipyard, and sometimes I will come up with an out of the box solution. I know this doesn't answer your question, but I wanted to at least offer some moral support. As for tapering hull planks, and deck planks for that matter, here is what I did. Probably not the best solution but it worked for me. First I took a board of the same thickness and length of the planking boards but 3 to 4 inches wide. Then I took a metal ruler (12-16 inch) and glued a sandpaper strip to the backside. I then drew the taper on the plank, butted it up against the larger board and placed the ruler along the line I drew. The ruler overlapped both the plank and the larger board. I found the sandpaper on the backside of the ruler trapped and held the plank firmly enough to allow me to taper it with a knife. Perhaps there is a way to also get sandpaper below the plank as well and "sandwich" it in to hold it firmly. I think this may work better if the larger board is very slightly thinner (1/64) than the plank. Too much difference may cause the knife to run at an angle. I took the dive and invested my tax return in a Byrne's saw. I would hope this will solve any future problems with tapering. D

While I have owned a radial arm saw many years ago, I've never owned or operated a table saw. Seems to me my Byrne's saw is just a smaller version of the full size machine so the same techniques and safety rules apply. While waiting for delivery of the saw I decided to purchase the following and get some education. https://m.barnesandnoble.com/w/tauntons-complete-illustrated-guide-to-tablesaws-paul-anthony/1103185359

I couldn't agree more on the basswood issue. Just not the best wood for the best results. My plan is to slog through my Bluenose using what I have, doing my best and learning as I go. But my next build will be a larger scale, simpler ship which I will attempt to scratch build. I've already purchased the half hull planking tutorial and think I need to back up and relearn how to walk before trying to run. Right now I know more about brain surgery than wood, so a huge learning curve there also. And tools is something else I need to think seriously about if I plan to commit to this hobby. It's great to have this forum as a sounding board.

I find that hard to believe. Perhaps frustrated, but no worse than that. Breathe Pat, breathe.

Agreed. Sanding the last bit and test fitting as you go gives a nice fit.

As I said, perhaps I don't know what I'm talking about.🤐 Carry on, Pat. Don't mind me.

I wonder if making the block the same width as the plank might have made fitting it in a bit easier? But then I'm not familiar with your build or the proper scale. So I could be way off base here.

I have faith in you Patrick, sweat away! Dave

Multiple light coats are always better than one heavy one.

Types of sharp blades work well when cutting with the grain. But I always use a saw when cutting across the grain. Basswood is very soft and using the sharpest blade across the grain will tend to crush more than cut. Razor saws work very well, and I've had good results with Japanese pull saws as well. Of course power saws, like the Byrne's saw, are the ultimate.

#2 should work. You will find there is a lot of trial & error, experimentation and such with this hobby. Remember you can always take a few pieces of deck planking and try things before hand. I would think your model is a 1/64 scale and at that scale the caulking would be very, very narrow. So narrow that some believe it isn't necessary.

I used pencil on my Bluenose and I'm quite happy with it. You can check my build log for pictures. As others have mentioned, do not use too soft of a lead.

Looking forward to following your build. Many years ago I re-read Moby Dick and became so interested in the whaling industry I made a trip to both the New Bedford and Nantucket whaling museums.That led to eventually to learning to sail and buying a 30 foot sloop. Sold the boat years ago and now learning to be a model shipwright. By the way, Moby Dick gives some very detailed descriptions of the waling ship, rigging and way of life. Dave

Beautiful work Patrick. Thanks for the tutorial! Dave

😁

Very nice! Thanks for the clarification. I spent my tax refund on a Byrne's saw and sander which are yet to be delivered. Also got a Wen scroll saw. If uncle Sam comes through with another check I'll be looking for a drill press as well. But will, of course, do my research before purchasing.

Am I understanding this correctly? You used a router bit in your drill press? Dave

Great work, Patrick. You're paving the way for us less experienced shipwrights.

I've used 3M sponge pads with success. They hold sandpaper well and easily conform to surface shapes.

Vallorbe files have served me well. Not cheap but good quality. I have escapement files from them as well as a cheaper mini file set from Husky. The escapement files are smaller than the mini files.

I see WEN is another make worth looking at.

That would cover just about anything I currently use. Would it handle 1/64 birch aircraft ply as well? Dave

Thanks Bob!

And what about saw blades for scratch building? Since the saw comes with a 24 tooth, 4 inch blade I thought I would stick with the 4inch size and order the 36 tooth as well as the 100 tooth slitting blade which is recommended for use with tilt table. Are 3inch blades really needed at all? Is a 36 tooth blade needed or will the 24 tooth suffice for all cutting? Obviously I have no experience / knowledge of saw blades. Dave

Got my income tax refund and will be purchasing a Byrne's saw. Which accessories are worth purchasing with it? Dave