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CPDDET

NRG Member
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Everything posted by CPDDET

  1. BTW Patrick, I loved your X-wing cockpit background at our last Zoom meeting.
  2. I agree that using solid blocks is the most expeditious way to build these housings. And with the right trim they look great. My instructions even show solid block options. The only reason I decided to build mine was to teach myself methods for a future scratch build, if I ever finish this one. 😄
  3. No such thing as a stupid question. While my solution isn't the best, I placed a sheet of sandpaper on the deck and worked the housing fore and aft on it until it conformed to the shape of the deck Perhaps not the best solution as it caused the base of the housing to be a bit thinner at the center point. But at this scale I found it to be acceptable. Much easier than trying to shape the base of the cabin to the very slight arch of the deck. If you noticed, I didn't arch the roof of the cabin either. Just to slight of a shape to bother with in my opinion. But if you're looking for absolute perfection. Then the base should be cut to fit the curviture of the deck. And the roof of the cabin arched as well. Hope this answers your question.
  4. That's quite the compliment, considering I'm new at this and this is my first build. Thanks for your kind words. The skylight is going to be a real challenge for me. Trying to keep everything is scale at 1/64th to an inch isnt easy. Especially since I'm only using hand tools.
  5. Looks great Nirvana. Thanks for sharing your progress. Lots I can learn from.
  6. Started building the main cabin. The following sequence of pictures pretty much sums up my progress so far. I used a stylus to press the board lines in the side panels and scrapers to shape the corner pieces and mouldings. Still have some minor paint / stain touch ups to do and then start on the skylight. My plan is to place a piece of flat black craft paper below it so the finished roof doesn't show through. I found that CA readily adheres to the poly coating on the roof, so mounting the skylight and compass housing won't be a problem. How are most people handling the glass panes and bars?
  7. Nice set, it should serve you well. Dave
  8. Here is another tool I find handy. https://bridgecitytools.com/products/mini-miter-square?_pos=1&_sid=0f002990b&_ss=r The edge plate is held on with magnets and can be raised, lowered or removed. Dave
  9. This morning Im a bit torn as to what to do with the boom buffer. While the buffer on Matt S.S's Latham model is exposed (and quite a beautiful job), the buffer on the Bluenose is tucked away and almost unseen. So I'm undecided if I should take the time to build my own or clean up the white metal part, paint it. One part of me wants to move on with the build and the other relishes the challenge of building my own. It's these challenges that provide real learning and honing of skills, and I need all I can get of that. LOL Going to play with it today and see how it goes.
  10. I continue to monitor your progress and really appreciate your sharing. As always, wonderful work. Dave
  11. I finished some of the smaller parts for the aft end of the ship. Namely the boom crutch, quarter bits, small grate that goes on the starboard side of the wheel house and the "unidentified" object which goes on the port side of the wheel house. I decided to dress the "unidentified" object a bit by placing a brass band around the base. I haven't installed these because I still need to to deal with the boom sheet buffer and didnt want to black my access. The britannia metal part supplied with the kit looks awful. The plans show the actual buffer in detail. But one view shows the buffer mounted to the deck while the side view shows it on some sort of platform. Anyway, I'm still contemplating on just how to build this piece. I doubt that I can create it in all the detail shown in the drawing but I have to make something better than the britannia metal piece that came with the kit. This may take some time .........
  12. Hold down table, about 12 x 12. Three t-tracks and mini hold down clamps.
  13. Just wondered what you wanted pictures of since I mentioned the hold down table and magnetic fence. Didn't mean to imply your knowledge of Japanese pull saws was lacking. Always happy to share my novice techniques! Dave
  14. Also use this saw for rip cuts. Have been able to cut 1/32 inch wide strips. Does take some practice as these are pull saws, vs American saws that cut on the push. The magnetic fence is a big help. https://www.suizan.net/products/suizan-japanese-saw-6-dozuki-dovetail
  15. Wefalck: What did you want images of? The saw? The hold down table? The magnetic fence? Dave
  16. Almost! The kerf is the same width as the blade, .012 inches. Actually made to cut dowles flush and very flexible. Makes very fine cut. I have 2 Japanese pull saws as I only use hand tools for my build. https://www.suizan.net/products/suizan-japanese-flush-cut-trim-saw-5-inch-hand-saw-for-hardwood-and-softwood
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