CPDDET
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Jeff, one other thing I wanted to pass along. I've learned from experience that sometimes one needs to test a process before doing the work on the model. For example; I'm in the middle of attaching the rudder to the ship. This means fabricating the pintles and grugedons and attaching them. On scratch materials I'm testing epoxy, soldering, micro nails, drilling, shaping and so forth. Of course, some processes are straight forward. But if something seems complicated, it may be best to do a test run first. Take you time and if you feel rushed, put it down and take a break. Dave
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I decided to build my cap rail from 2 pieces of wood: one for the port side and one for the starboard. I purchased a 3" or 4" wide basswood board of the proper thickness, laid it on top of the bulwarks and traced a line for the arc. Cut the outside arc, then set my dividers for the proper width and drew the inboard line. Then measured from the plans for the two areas (on each side) where the rail is a bit wider and transfered those to the board. Then adjusted the inboard line to accommodate these wider parts and made the final cut. When drawing the outboard and inboard lines, be sure to adjust the width to accommodate the proper overhang. I think there are some pictures on my build log if you think this will work for you. Dave -
Hey Jeff, welcome to the world of model shipwrights. I'm about 1/3 through my first build and thought I would pass along some things I've learned. The advice I received was to buy tools as you need them. Then buy the correct tool of the best quality you can afford. Your probably going to start with the keel and bulkheads. Look at as many build logs as you can and see what tools others have used for these steps before buying. Then do the same for each following step. Yes, it slows things down. But I'm finding patience is key with this hobby. I'm still adding needed tools as I go along but it does help spread the cost. If, at some point, you decide this isn't for you, you will only have invested in the tools and materials you needed to reach that point. And if you finish the model, you will be well equipped for the next. I also follow some of the other forumson this site. Like tools, jigs, painting ect. I've found lots of tips that will help me in future points with my build. Also there are many fine book on the build process of wooden models. I just acquired, as a Christmas present, both volumes of Ship Modeler's Shop Notes from the NRG website Good luck, and use this site to your advantage. Dave
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Thanks Ricky! Things move slowly with this first build. It's a learn as I go and I don't always get it right the first time, forcing me to re-do a process: sometimes more than once. Tools and material needs also slow the first build. Buying as I move through the build causes delays as sometimes items can be back ordered, or I need to stop and save some money for the purchase. The constant delays can be frustrating but I'm not going to let it stop me from acquiring the proper tools and learning proper techniques for a decent build. Currently I'm working on the pintles and grugedons on the rudder. I'm on my 3rd try, using different materials and assembly. I'm on hold because I don't have a soldering iron. But I've done my research and the tool should arrive in a day or two. Patience is key. And some of the best advice I received when I began was to not buy a tool until it's needed. Buy the right tool and buy the best one can afford. One consoling thought is that by the time I finish this build I will have the tools, material and more experience in place for the next. Dave
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The more research I do the more it bears out what you say, Mark. If want a drill press, buy a drill press, if you want a milling machine, buy a milling machine. Dave
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Won't be long and I'll be in need of a bench top drill press. I've been looking at Proxxon and Microlux. Both have available XY tables, machine vice and chuck. The top rpm on the Proxxon is higher, 8500 vs 6500 for the Microlux. Proxxon claimed their drill press can be used for milling as well. Don't see that claim for Microlux. What's the opinion of those with experience with these tools? Dave
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Would a bench shear work as well as a guillotine shear? I see Eastwood makes an 8 inch bench shear that has great reviews. But not having any experience with any type of shear I don't know. Dave
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Thanks for the tips and clues, Richard. I'm a bit far off from getting to the metal work, but it pays to plan ahead. As well as helping to spread the cost of tools and materials. Dave
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Beautiful workmanship. Curious as to the type of brass stock used for the banding.
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Spent this week painting the hull. Masked off the deck and sprayed the cap rail, frames, waterways and inside of the bulwarks with acrylic sealer. Then masked all painted areas topsides Applied 3-4 coats of primer Painted a wide white stripe in the area were the waterline would eventually be. After marking the waterline, ran a 1/4 inch strip of poly tape along the mark. Also taped over the scuppers and painted the outer bulwarks yellow (photo show tape removed after yellow pain was applied). Extended the masking from the center of the 1/4 inch poly to the top rail. Painted the low part of the hull Then reversed the masking, extending from the center of the 1/4 inch poly to fully cover the painted part of the hull Before painting the top part of the hull black, I ran a 1/16th inch piece of poly tape just above the scuppers. Then painted the top portion black After removing the masking, 1/4 inch poly and 1/16 poly, I gave the entire hull 4 coats of matt finish acrylic sealer Still have a few small touch ups to do on the outboard edge of the top rail and some very minor oversprays
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Judging by your work so far, your rigging will look great.
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Your a brave soul, taking on such a project for a first build. And a scratch build at that! Looks like beautiful workmanship. Welcome to the group.
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This is the one I'm currently using. Search "bench top organizers". I think I paid around $70 for it. Check jeweler's supplies too.
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Thanks for the tips and the video, very informative! Dave PS: Kurt, no need to be concerned about the text I sent
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I will be getting my first airbrush system next week and will be using it to paint the hull of my Bluenose model. On the assumption that I will be doing multiple coats, will I have to clean the airbrush between coats? Or will the paint (acrylic) dry fast enough that following coats can be applied without the fear of the airbrush becoming clogged? I have already researched (through this site and via the acrylic paint manufacturer) the proper method to prepare the paint for airbrush use and will, of course, test things out on scrap wood before painting the model. Dave
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I now have sets of both Swiss files and Escapement files. While still new to this hobby, I'm finding that, in many instances, files are more appropriate to use than sandpaper. It seems having the correct tools, knowing how and when to use them is key to producing a good result.
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Swiss made jeweler's files.
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If anyone is interested Otto Frei is having a closeout on a set of 12 escapement files (various cuts). Regular $190.00 on sale for $155.00 https://www.ottofrei.com/Closeout-Glardon-Vallorbe-Escapement-Files-Set-Of-12-Assorted-Cuts?location=1&quantity=1
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Thanks for the tips on the chainplates!
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Your skill in building is amazing. Thank you for sharing ! Perhaps you could enlighten me on how you cut the slits in the cap rail for the chainplates? Dave
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Poly over acrylic paint????
CPDDET replied to CPDDET's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
My situation is placement of the finished model. I have limited space so the model may very well be placed in a spot that received some amount of sunlight. The sealant will provide UV protection and help reduce fading. Aesthetically it will give more "pop" to the colors. -
Poly over acrylic paint????
CPDDET replied to CPDDET's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I think I will use this product to seal the paint on my model. Crystal Clear Krylon Acrylic Coating Spray Finish. -
Poly over acrylic paint????
CPDDET replied to CPDDET's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Per Minwax the only product they recommend over acrylic paint is their Water Based Helmsman® Spar Urethane. -
Does one need to put a poly finish over acrylic paint? I recall reading somewhere (not on this site) that acrylic paint needs this for long term protection. Dave
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