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CPDDET

NRG Member
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Everything posted by CPDDET

  1. Looking for advice on magnifier headset. Would like to purchase magnifier headset and looking for advice on brand and magnification. Dave
  2. Thanks for the reminder, Dave. Just about have the port side cap rail formed. Will post a pic when its done. Dave
  3. Pat, Thanks for the comment on the cap rails, they are still a work in progress. And thanks for making me feel so welcome last night. Walking into a room full of strangers can be a bit intimidating, but you made me feel comfortable and welcomed. See you next month!
  4. That's a great tip Wallace, I can see where your method would come in handy in a variety of situations. Thanks!
  5. Its yet to see if my approach will work the way I imagine. My mind is busy turning over the order of steps I need to take to complete it. Won't be able to work on the ship till tomorrow so I have time to figure things out. Thanks for your vote of confidence. BTW, the plastic curves I used are Ships Curves, not French Curves.
  6. Decided to go with this set of Starrett pin vices. Thanks to all for sharing your advice and suggestions.
  7. Thanks to all for sharing their method on cutting the top rails. After giving it a good deal of thought, I decided I wanted the top rail to be one piece between the bow and stern pieces. I went to a local hobby shop and purchased a 1/16” X 3” X 24” piece of basswood, about $2.50. Having already trimmed the false frames flush with the top bulwark plank, I laid the new piece of basswood on top of the false frames and, using a mechanical pencil, traced the shape of the hull from underneath. This, I think, was much the same way Tector did his. Then I measured the widest part of the rail on the plans and scribed a line parallel to the one I drew. Using ships curves, I cut out one top rail (tough to see the ship curve as its clear plastic). I then used the cut top rail as a template to draw the second top rail and cut that one out. I now have 2 rough cut top rails. Next will be transferring the measurements from the plans to the rough cut top rails for the wider areas and sanding everything to form the finished pieces. Here is a better picture of the ships curves, I believe there are actually 6 pieces in the set.
  8. While I haven't posted for some time, the work continues. And I will post some pictures shortly. Right now I'm attempting to install the caprails and have run into an issue. The plans call for the caprail to be made from 7/32 X 1/16 stock. However the parts list for this MS2130 kit does not list such a dimension, nor is there such a dimension in the box. How have you other shipwrights dealt with this issue? Dave
  9. I've reached a point I'm my build where I'm going to need a pin vice and bits. I see Micromark has several different styles so I'm looking for advice / suggestions. Dave
  10. While I'm just finishing up the basic hull, I have managed to obtain a copy of LB Jensons book on Bluenose II. The book is a treasure trove of scale drawings for the entire ship. Including hull planking, rigging, deck housings, sail plan and many details. There are even drawings of below deck areas. What a challenge it would be to build a half open hull showing below decks. Way beyond my current skill level.
  11. Very nice work. I'm following your build closely as I'm just to the point of painting the waterways and hull.
  12. Looks like a winner. That one will make the list for a future purchase.
  13. Thanks Phil I feel like once I finish and paint the basic hull it will be like a fresh start doing the deck, masts and rigging. Learned a lot thru mistakes while doing the basic hull and can apply what I learned to finishing the model.
  14. Been awhile since my last update. I now have about 175 hours in the build. After suffering some slings and arrows I will be following Hunt’s practicum more closely. While it’s been a bit busy around the house these past few weeks, I have managed to make some progress. I installed the upper bulwark and sanded all the false frame timbers so they are even with the top of it and put in the hawse timbers. I then did some work on the stern / transom. Not quite finished back there yet. Because of some sloppy sanding on my part, there were small gaps in a few spots between the lower bulwark and the top hull plank. So I carefully taped the lower bulwark just even with the bottom of the scupper openings. Mixed up some Elmer’s wood filler with a few drops of water to get it to the consistency of toothpaste and filled the gaps. Tomorrow I will remove the tape and sand the areas smooth. May have to clean out some of the scupper holes where some wood filler squirted through. Then it will be time to paint the inside of the bulwarks, false frame timbers and waterways. But before I lay a brush on the ship I will follow the advice of more experienced model shipwrights and do some testing. I’m going to try 3 different sealers that were recommended: Delta Ceramcoat, shellac and sanding sealer. I also need to experiment with the ratio of paint to extender to get a “milk-like” consistency.
  15. You're absolutely right about that. I traded in my old analog one for a digital some time ago. Indispensable.
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