Jump to content

VTHokiEE

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,528

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by VTHokiEE

  1. VTHokiEE
    @thibaultron - Thanks, after a long consideration I realed that the current notch perfectly splits the keel and if I altered it I don't think I could replicate that effect well. In the end I decided to get as close as possible and use some filler for the gaps (and a wood plank in the rear). @Azzoun - Thanks! Not much work today but I was given some basswood and decided to try to make some mast hoops from it as I really wasn't looking forward to using the wire that I used on my Chesapeake Flattie. This evening I may pop a few out, sand them down and see how they look stained. Edit - I quickly realized that I’m going to need at least one more attempt at the mast hoops. They are too thin, after very careful sanding they are a too fragile.
  2. VTHokiEE
    Welcome! I don't know the answer but you probably will get more visibility in the Building, Framing, Planking and Plating subsection of the forum.
  3. VTHokiEE
    The cutouts include a notch (shown below if you look closely); do you think I should extend the notch a little further forward instead?
  4. VTHokiEE
    I attached the side planks and after finishing sanding them down I dry fitted the bottom planks on and ran into a few small questions to address. The planks have a notch cut out to go around the keep, but this notch is higher than the keel strips: Next, I have a gap past the keel: That the instructions seem to indicate isn't there (looking at the picture associated with step 61 I'm not certain how that could be achieved given the cutout of the planks): My intention (based around what makes sense to me and this post, photos 32 and 36, in a build log) is to sand the offending raised area in front of the keel down and to fit a plank in the gap shown. Hopefully my next post will have that done successfully and the bottom planks installed.
  5. VTHokiEE
    I wouldn’t trust my skills enough to not break off some of the parts around the edges where tiny pieces would be left after the holes are drilled (and I assumed filed?) and squared. When it comes to models it’s worth the trouble for the end result right?
  6. VTHokiEE
    Interesting idea, but would it look right with round holes instead of square paint?
  7. VTHokiEE
    I’m excited to watch your log; I had my eye on this kit during the various sales, but it’s not the right time for me to have multiple build logs (more power to you though! Good luck!)
  8. VTHokiEE
    I was able to get a little bit of work done over the past week. Installed the cabin and cargo roofs and started on the side planks. After installing on of the side planks I realized that I didn't fair the chine strips by the bow as well as I should have so I make have some work adding filler and smoothing that out in my future. I'll have to see how it looks when both sides are in place, trimmed and sanded.
  9. VTHokiEE
    In my opinion, the bigger restriction is whether or not the software which you wish to run has a Linux option. There are highly usable Linux options (again assuming that you can run your software), you don’t really have to do a lot on the command line and if you need/want to it’s usually a quick search away. Edit: Of course this is straying well beyond the bounds of a build log; but if you have any interest in looking at other options feel free to send me a PM.
  10. VTHokiEE
    Awesome deal! I may join even if I may never get around to scratch building (and and no where near good enough yet either). Scratch building seems a long ways off for me but I have been thinking that it’s a worthy cause.
  11. VTHokiEE
    Nice work! Congratulations on the finished build; I think it looks great!
  12. VTHokiEE
    A minor update - Placed the keel strips and chines (thankfully I had some rubber bands on hand because I couldn't get a good grip with my clamps). Then I added the cabin walls. I see that benches are going to be placed later, but it doesn't look like the opening below the benches is ever covered and I'm not certain how I feel about leaving it open (or really certain how I would go about closing it either). I (think) I prefer how the cabin walls went all the way down on the Chesapeake Flattie, there was a lot more wood to secure them in place (but that probably would have impacted adding benches later). I'm currently painting the cabin roof (I think I may go for a bluish-gray) and some scrap pieces of wood black to go behind the cabin windows.
  13. VTHokiEE
    Not certain if this is the right place to ask, but how does the redesign to the Alert stern pattern effect the construction?
  14. VTHokiEE
    That is one beautiful ship! Great work!
  15. VTHokiEE
    Thanks Kurt, I’m in no way wed to silver soldering. I’ve simply never really done metalwork before (I am comfortable soldering electronics, but I don’t know that that experience is significantly transferable here) and am open to whatever gets the job done. I understand the concept of joints for eye bolts and the like, but I don’t fully understand how to join flat pieces to build something that can go around a mast for example. I think this book sounds like it should help me out there; it’s probably not as complicated as I’m making it out to be, but having some reference material should help provide some confidence.
  16. VTHokiEE
    Vince - that’s good to know. I saw that the second edition by Foran has been updated to include a section on model ships, but I didn’t see if it included silver soldering or not. Do you happen to know which volume (of the Underhill books) has the metal work section?
  17. VTHokiEE
    Awesome! Thank you all for the recommendations. I’ll start picking with Ken Foran’s most likely and go from there. Thanks again!
  18. VTHokiEE
    I’ve never done any metal work before while I’ve searched, I can’t see to find a beginner’s guide. I found a Silver Soldering intro which was great for tools and joints, but I thought I might need a little more information. I’m trying to recreate parts like these: Can anyone point me in the right direction? And hopefully give some guidance on how to properly paint it as well? Thank you!
  19. VTHokiEE
    I finally attached the transom (on my second try). I used a spare balsa block to get a better hold for my clamp and as you can see I did a poor job of beveling the transom to 45 degrees (my first sanding was more like 60-75 degrees). I'm starting to strongly consider a small disc sand to help with angles.
  20. VTHokiEE
    I finished prepping the deck by applying a Golden Oak stain and then coating it with some polyurethane before dry fitting to the bulkheads. I needed to do a little sanding for a nice fit before gluing and clamping. I might pick up a few small clamps for my next build. Also, I'm excited to report that my new rope, cleats and deadeyes came in from Syren Ship Model Company today. I need to pick up a block tumber for the deadeyes at some point, but I have a little while before I get to the rigging at this pace. Next up - the transom.
  21. VTHokiEE
    Nice job; looks like it is coming along nicely. Are the stl files for the clamps available online at all? These look potentially really useful.
  22. VTHokiEE
    Wow that is great info. Of course I used too heavy of a pencil... I expected to make mistakes an learn through them, but I assumed that I would make it through a few more steps. At least I’ll have better pencils for next time :-). Right now I’m letting the stained deck dry and coating it with some semi-gloss poly. Hopefully there will be a picture or two in the near future.
  23. VTHokiEE
    Thanks for the advice Dr. PR. I did some research and I unfortunately was unable to turn up anything conclusive. I decided against going down a rabbit hole and after looking at many of the other built kits I plan on sticking to the plans here since they don’t have any plank lengths specified. For now I’ll look forward to prepping the deck. A white eraser removed the pencil lines for me (a pink one left behind pink residue, good thing I tried scrap wood first).
  24. VTHokiEE
    Thanks Chris, I'm looking forward to it and hopefully I'll learn my fair share in the process. I had a few hours tonight so I attached the bulkheads and cut out the deck. I penciled in the planking lines and unfortunately at least one line went astray, is there any easy way to remove pencil from the wood to redo that one? I've noticed that sanding doesn't seem to work well. I also feel like I should add the horizontal lines and potentially nail dots to finish the realistic look of the deck. Does anyone have a suggestion for what lengths I should make the planks and what the layout should be?
  25. VTHokiEE
    I choose the Sharpie Schooner by Midwest for my second build (their Chesapeake Bay Flattie was my first build). I've seen several beautiful builds on here, especially the log from hopeful: Sharpie Schooner by hopeful, and I'm hoping to add some of their flair to my build. Upon opening the box I sadly noticed that almost all of the blocks and cleats were plastic so I ordered new ones (along with some deadeyes and rope) from the Syren Ship Model Company (I really wasn't pleased with the thread on my Flattie). This build will probably be very slow (two young kids keep me pretty occupied outside of work) but keeping a build log should force me to do at least a little every week. At the moment I'm in the process of cutting out the keel and bulkheads. Already I know I'm going to have questions about coloring the anchor and chain as well as improving upon my rigging and potential color schemes, but we can save those for when I get to them.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...