VTHokiEE
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Everything posted by VTHokiEE
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Welcome! I don't know the answer but you probably will get more visibility in the Building, Framing, Planking and Plating subsection of the forum.
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The cutouts include a notch (shown below if you look closely); do you think I should extend the notch a little further forward instead?- 90 replies
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I attached the side planks and after finishing sanding them down I dry fitted the bottom planks on and ran into a few small questions to address. The planks have a notch cut out to go around the keep, but this notch is higher than the keel strips: Next, I have a gap past the keel: That the instructions seem to indicate isn't there (looking at the picture associated with step 61 I'm not certain how that could be achieved given the cutout of the planks): My intention (based around what makes sense to me and this post, photos 32 and 36, in a build log) is to sand the offending raised area in front of the keel down and to fit a plank in the gap shown. Hopefully my next post will have that done successfully and the bottom planks installed.
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I wouldn’t trust my skills enough to not break off some of the parts around the edges where tiny pieces would be left after the holes are drilled (and I assumed filed?) and squared. When it comes to models it’s worth the trouble for the end result right?
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Interesting idea, but would it look right with round holes instead of square paint?
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I’m excited to watch your log; I had my eye on this kit during the various sales, but it’s not the right time for me to have multiple build logs (more power to you though! Good luck!)
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I was able to get a little bit of work done over the past week. Installed the cabin and cargo roofs and started on the side planks. After installing on of the side planks I realized that I didn't fair the chine strips by the bow as well as I should have so I make have some work adding filler and smoothing that out in my future. I'll have to see how it looks when both sides are in place, trimmed and sanded.
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In my opinion, the bigger restriction is whether or not the software which you wish to run has a Linux option. There are highly usable Linux options (again assuming that you can run your software), you don’t really have to do a lot on the command line and if you need/want to it’s usually a quick search away. Edit: Of course this is straying well beyond the bounds of a build log; but if you have any interest in looking at other options feel free to send me a PM.
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HMS Winchelsea - Special Offer
VTHokiEE replied to kurtvd19's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
Awesome deal! I may join even if I may never get around to scratch building (and and no where near good enough yet either). Scratch building seems a long ways off for me but I have been thinking that it’s a worthy cause. -
Nice work! Congratulations on the finished build; I think it looks great!
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A minor update - Placed the keel strips and chines (thankfully I had some rubber bands on hand because I couldn't get a good grip with my clamps). Then I added the cabin walls. I see that benches are going to be placed later, but it doesn't look like the opening below the benches is ever covered and I'm not certain how I feel about leaving it open (or really certain how I would go about closing it either). I (think) I prefer how the cabin walls went all the way down on the Chesapeake Flattie, there was a lot more wood to secure them in place (but that probably would have impacted adding benches later). I'm currently painting the cabin roof (I think I may go for a bluish-gray) and some scrap pieces of wood black to go behind the cabin windows.
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Not certain if this is the right place to ask, but how does the redesign to the Alert stern pattern effect the construction?
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That is one beautiful ship! Great work!
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Is there a Beginner’s Guide to Metal Work?
VTHokiEE replied to VTHokiEE's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Thanks Kurt, I’m in no way wed to silver soldering. I’ve simply never really done metalwork before (I am comfortable soldering electronics, but I don’t know that that experience is significantly transferable here) and am open to whatever gets the job done. I understand the concept of joints for eye bolts and the like, but I don’t fully understand how to join flat pieces to build something that can go around a mast for example. I think this book sounds like it should help me out there; it’s probably not as complicated as I’m making it out to be, but having some reference material should help provide some confidence. -
Is there a Beginner’s Guide to Metal Work?
VTHokiEE replied to VTHokiEE's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Vince - that’s good to know. I saw that the second edition by Foran has been updated to include a section on model ships, but I didn’t see if it included silver soldering or not. Do you happen to know which volume (of the Underhill books) has the metal work section? -
Is there a Beginner’s Guide to Metal Work?
VTHokiEE replied to VTHokiEE's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Awesome! Thank you all for the recommendations. I’ll start picking with Ken Foran’s most likely and go from there. Thanks again! -
I’ve never done any metal work before while I’ve searched, I can’t see to find a beginner’s guide. I found a Silver Soldering intro which was great for tools and joints, but I thought I might need a little more information. I’m trying to recreate parts like these: Can anyone point me in the right direction? And hopefully give some guidance on how to properly paint it as well? Thank you!
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I finally attached the transom (on my second try). I used a spare balsa block to get a better hold for my clamp and as you can see I did a poor job of beveling the transom to 45 degrees (my first sanding was more like 60-75 degrees). I'm starting to strongly consider a small disc sand to help with angles.
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I finished prepping the deck by applying a Golden Oak stain and then coating it with some polyurethane before dry fitting to the bulkheads. I needed to do a little sanding for a nice fit before gluing and clamping. I might pick up a few small clamps for my next build. Also, I'm excited to report that my new rope, cleats and deadeyes came in from Syren Ship Model Company today. I need to pick up a block tumber for the deadeyes at some point, but I have a little while before I get to the rigging at this pace. Next up - the transom.
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Nice job; looks like it is coming along nicely. Are the stl files for the clamps available online at all? These look potentially really useful.
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Wow that is great info. Of course I used too heavy of a pencil... I expected to make mistakes an learn through them, but I assumed that I would make it through a few more steps. At least I’ll have better pencils for next time :-). Right now I’m letting the stained deck dry and coating it with some semi-gloss poly. Hopefully there will be a picture or two in the near future.
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Thanks for the advice Dr. PR. I did some research and I unfortunately was unable to turn up anything conclusive. I decided against going down a rabbit hole and after looking at many of the other built kits I plan on sticking to the plans here since they don’t have any plank lengths specified. For now I’ll look forward to prepping the deck. A white eraser removed the pencil lines for me (a pink one left behind pink residue, good thing I tried scrap wood first).
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Thanks Chris, I'm looking forward to it and hopefully I'll learn my fair share in the process. I had a few hours tonight so I attached the bulkheads and cut out the deck. I penciled in the planking lines and unfortunately at least one line went astray, is there any easy way to remove pencil from the wood to redo that one? I've noticed that sanding doesn't seem to work well. I also feel like I should add the horizontal lines and potentially nail dots to finish the realistic look of the deck. Does anyone have a suggestion for what lengths I should make the planks and what the layout should be?
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I choose the Sharpie Schooner by Midwest for my second build (their Chesapeake Bay Flattie was my first build). I've seen several beautiful builds on here, especially the log from hopeful: Sharpie Schooner by hopeful, and I'm hoping to add some of their flair to my build. Upon opening the box I sadly noticed that almost all of the blocks and cleats were plastic so I ordered new ones (along with some deadeyes and rope) from the Syren Ship Model Company (I really wasn't pleased with the thread on my Flattie). This build will probably be very slow (two young kids keep me pretty occupied outside of work) but keeping a build log should force me to do at least a little every week. At the moment I'm in the process of cutting out the keel and bulkheads. Already I know I'm going to have questions about coloring the anchor and chain as well as improving upon my rigging and potential color schemes, but we can save those for when I get to them.
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At this stage I probably need all the pliability that I can get so I’ll stick with the Tanganyika for this kit and leave the nicer woods for the following one. Thanks for having options like this!
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