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grsjax
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Everything posted by grsjax
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Just bought one of these on eBay and it came without an owners manual. I imagine this is common with used machines bought online. For anyone in the same situation a pdf. of the manual can be downloaded at http://www.owwm.com/files/PDF/Dremel/580-02.pdf
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HMS Swift kit - planking
grsjax replied to redwards's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
One of the first plank on bulkhead models I attempted was the AL Swift. Not knowing any better I just let the planks run on their natural path and filled in the gaps with stealers. Worked great for the first layer and didn't look to bad for the second layer but does require more thought and planning on placing the planking strips to get a fair looking final result. -
Band Saw Question... or two
grsjax replied to mtaylor's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Jud is right. Also 2.5amps is not a very powerful motor and would probably bog down cutting anything as hard as ebony even in relatively thin sections. -
Any size that can be sawn/planed/sanded to the correct final size is good. Depends on your tools and storage space. I like 2x4x24 because that works for my available storage and tool capacity.
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Blackening Britannia metal
grsjax replied to DocBlake's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I have had good results using the following process. 1. Clean in a solution of 50/50 water and vinegar. 2. Soak in Blacken-it for half an hour. 3. Dry and let sit for a couple of days. 4. Paint with a thin coat of MS cannon black paint. The blacken-it gives the metal a good new cast iron look but does require time to set (I guess that is the right word). It provides a great base for the paint. The result is a dull black, slightly rough finish that looks like painted cast iron does. Just my results, your mileage may vary. -
Been a while since I posted anything on this build. Had to have eye surgery and thought I would be back to work on the peapod sooner. Unfortunately although the surgery corrected my problems with distance vision and night vision it made my close in vision a bit worse. Have to get new glasses before I can do much more on the model. Until then I have other projects to keep me busy. Will post more as soon as I can.
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I need advice on a rotary tool
grsjax replied to jdiven's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I picked up a cheap rotary tool from Harbor Freight several years ago and it is still going strong. Variable speed to 35,000rpm and it comes with several accessories including a flex shaft and hanger. I think I paid $15 for it on sale. Probably not as good as a Dremel but for the price it has worked out well. -
Thanks for the info. Found a website www.wood-database.com that has pictures of several different pine woods. Looks like the hull is most likely eastern white pine. Still not 100% sure but it makes sense that white pine would be used for a model boat hull.
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Good point. I have added 4 pics to the original post that show the flecks. I thought they might be stains but a close look indicates they are part of the grain structure.
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Picked up an old Model Shipways Gjoa kit. The hull is not the usual basswood or mahogany I have seen in other MSW kits. It is a fairly hard light brown with dark brown flecks in it. Straight, coarse grain. I thought it might be pine but haven't seen any with the brown flecks before. Any ideas?
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One thing to remember is that not everything called walnut actually comes from a walnut tree. Some of the woods that come in kits are from fast growing tropical trees that do not produce the strength and other qualities of true walnut. That said good quality black walnut isn't that expensive and is widely available. I agree that replacing the poor quality "walnut" in a kit is the way to go.
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Galleys, Xebecs, and Galleases. When did they become obsolete?
grsjax replied to Ame's topic in Nautical/Naval History
I believe the Barbary pirates used galleys as late as the middle of the 19th century. -
Thimble help needed
grsjax replied to Senior ole salt's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Read this somewhere many years ago. Take rosin core solder of the correct size, split down one side and remove the rosin, bend into the thimble shape and you'r done. Never tried this myself so have no first hand knowledge but it sounds like a workable idea. -
Thimble help needed
grsjax replied to Senior ole salt's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
You can also use low temperature melting metals to fill the copper tube and when finished forming heat the copper to remove the core metal. -
There is a DIY design for a jointer in a back issue of NRJ (Nautical Research Journal) http://www.thenrg.org/the-journal.php . It was in the late '70s I think. NRJ will provide reprints of old articles and I believe there is a complete index online. Just can't find the URL at the moment. Anyway it uses a dremel tool for power and looks like it would be more than adequate for any work you might need on a model.
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Good website for info on mini-mills and lathes is http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Main/mini-mill.htm
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The next step... A choice for the next model...
grsjax replied to timo4352's topic in Wood ship model kits
The Pinky is a nice looking kit. No experiance with it but the double backbone construction looks interesting and the boat itself is a great subject. It is a model of H.I. Chappelle's boat that he designed for his own use and I always liked the looks of it. For more info on the history of the Pinky and how it was built you might want to take a look at Chappelle's books "American Sailing Craft" and "The American Fishing Schooners". -
Tung Oil Finish?
grsjax replied to cdogg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
If the humidity is high it may take awhile for the oil to get hard enough to buff. When I lived in Florida I did some walnut gunstocks with tung oil and it would stay tacky for a couple of days. Trying to buff it before it hardens up enough will only result in a poor finish. -
Mini Drill Press - moved by moderator
grsjax replied to HonuJaye's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have a small table top Ryobi drill press that works well. Bigger than the micro press but also more capable. A pin vise can be used to hold very small drill bits. Already pretty rigid but can be made better by filling the hollow column with concrete. Cost about $100 from Amazon and that included shipping. Does need to be bolted down. -
Found this chart of Janka hardness on the net. Some that are not on it are basswood 410, poplar (tulip wood) 540, American sycamore 770, European sycamore 1,050 and Boxwood 2,840. chart_janka.pdf
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Not just reprinted but in a format that is cheap enough that the average modeler can afford them. Steel's Naval Architecture. Currently available in a limited edition for about $1000 Junks and Sampans of the Yangtze River. Only copy I can find is an old reprint for $112. How about some $30 editions for the poor but honest average guy?
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"American Small Sailing Craft" by Howard I. Chappelle has a section on peapods.
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After trying different methods of getting the planks to lay down flat on the forms I decided to use the wet bending method. I soak the planks in warm water for about 10 minutes and pin them to forms to dry. Takes several hours to get completely dry but they are much easier to fit. I will post some more pics later.
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I like Model Shipways smack Emma C. Berry, or the skipjack Willie Bennett.
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http://www.engineersedge.com/screw_threads_chart.htm The above link is to a ANSI external screw thread size chart. Only gives diameter in inches but easy enough to convert to metric. BTW 4-40 is .1120 major diameter and 40 threads per inch.
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