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grsjax

NRG Member
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Everything posted by grsjax

  1. Hi Shawn I have a set of old Millers Falls palm chisels that would seem to be what you are describing. Millers Falls is no longer in business but you can find the chisels on eBay most of the time. I think I paid about $20 for the set a few years ago. They will probably require sharpening but (at least the ones I have) they are made of good steel and take a fine edge. Here is a link to a set that is on eBay now http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Millers-Falls-W-Piece-Wood-Handle-Wood-Carving-Chisel-Set-Made-in-USA-/221636028749?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339a89694d
  2. If you look on eBay you will find several sets of resharpened carbide bits for sale. Price tends to be about $12 for 10 bits. I bought a set recently and they are pretty good. Here is a set of 50 on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-Micro-Carbide-Drill-Bits-CNC-Dremel-Jewelry-/151515931888?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item23470da4f0
  3. W.E May's book is excellent as a reference on boats carried by British warships. I remember reading many years ago a book about the Bounty and in it was a reference to the launch not being a standard Royal Navy design. I do not remember the details other than that it was requested by Lt. Bligh and justified by the nature of the voyage. Sorry I can't provide more info.
  4. allanyed has a good point but that said "Nautical Research Journal" of the Nautical Research Guild is a good place to start. It covers both ship modeling and the history of ships. There is a link to their homepage at the top of this page. You might find "Ships in Scale" another good one to take a look at.
  5. While doing some research on photo etching I ran across this item. It is about making printed circuit boards but the etching part is what is most interesting. The etchant is a mixture of plain white vinegar and 3% hydrogen peroxide with a little table salt. Much less toxic/dangerous than the typical hydrochloric acid or ferric chloride etchant. I have not tried this yet but it looks like a good method. http://quinndunki.com/blondihacks/?p=835
  6. I remember reading about building a metal hull over a wooden plug using thin plate. It was years ago that I read it and I believe it was in a British book about building model warships. Sorry I can't tell you more.
  7. Try bookfinder.com . This is excellent website that has been a source of many out of print books for my library.
  8. MDF (medium density fiberboard) can be used for bulkheads. Cheaper than ply and more ridgid than basswood.
  9. Ran across a reference to this Australian wood and wondered if anyone from down under had used it for modeling?
  10. Can't really give a reccomendation although I would urge you to get a small butane torch as well as a solding iron. Anyway Micro Mark is having a sale right now including a nice looking varible heat solding iron station for $20 + shipping. Amazon has a very good Aoyue model 469 soldering station for $29.95 w/free shipping. Nice thing about the Aoyue unit is that it uses standard 900M tips which are readily available.
  11. Yes, it works very well. If the frame/bulkhead will not show in the finished model you can glue strips of scrap to them to stiffen them.
  12. Thanks to all for their comments. Think I will give it a try. One reason I used in on walnut gunstocks was that it did a good job of taming grain that wanted to fuzz up when sanded and helped keep splinters under control. A problem I have had with thin veneer second planking strips.
  13. Has anyone used clear shellac as a sanding sealer on their models? I have used it as a sealer for walnut gun stocks and it works very well for that application with an oil finish over it. Only problem was that the shellac left a relatively thick layer on the surface that needed to be sanded off to get back to the wood. Not a problem with a gun stock but might be with a more delicate structure.
  14. Anyone know anything about this company? Ran across one of their models.
  15. Interesting article in the June 1983 NRG Journal on the Willie Bennett kit with a lot of interesting info about the original boat's history including pictures.
  16. Hi tsurfing I think you can post pdf files as an attachment to a post. Not sure how large a file can be posted but it might be worth a try.
  17. Howard Chappell actually covers the original design that all these models except the Roger B. Taney are based on in his book "The Baltimore Clipper". It is shown on page 115 as Marestier No. 6. The schooner is listed as having a length on deck of 92' 9" and a beam of 24'. All of the kits based on these lines are inaccurate to various degrees and none of them accurately represent the rig and deck layout. There is an article in a back issue of NRG (Volume 29 Number 2 June 1983 by Erik Ronnberg, jr and some follow up comments in the next issue, Sept. 83) that covers this ship, mentions several of the kits made from its lines and has pictures of a model made by Erik Ronnberg, Sr.
  18. Hi Is there a list or links to companies in Turkey and/or Russia? Seems like they would have some interesting subjects you wouldn't find here. Found one on the internet, Turk Model, but they had a limited range of models and I couldn't find any US dealers.
  19. Ran across this kit on eBay. Interesting Turkish trading vessel that isn't something you see everyday in a kit. From a Russian seller called Speedekin. The pictures of the kit look good but the instructions look like they are in Chinese (I think that is what it is). Anyone ever seen this kit in the flesh? Is it one of the proscribed kits?
  20. Basswood quality seems to vary quite a bit. I have some that is almost as soft as balsa and some that is pretty hard (for basswood that is). The harder pieces have a very dense, close grain while the softer pieces are a bit fuzzy.
  21. Speaking of making very small diameter treenails you might want to consider using bamboo. Bamboo can be draw down to very small diameter without breakage. May not be worth the effort but it can be done.
  22. Have to be careful with plywood. It doesn't bend in two planes at the same time like regular wood will. Soaking or steaming is not usually a good idea as the plys tend to delaminate when they get wet. I would think the best way would be to make a jig that approximates the curve you need and clamp the plywood to that until it assumes the correct curve. Haven't tried that with plywood but it works well with wood strips.
  23. A table saw falls into the nice to have column unless you are planning on doing a lot of straight cuts. If you want to get one but don't want or need a top of the line Byrnes you can usually find Dremel table saws on eBay for under $100, sometimes a lot less. They are pretty good out of the box but can be vastly improved by tuning and a few mods. The cheap table saws from Harbor Freight and others are ok but not up to doing really fine work.
  24. nice set of tools. Pretty good price as well.
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