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grsjax

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  1. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from mtaylor in Mini Mill recommendations   
    Depends on what you want to do with it.  A lot of minor milling of wood can actually be done on a small drill press.  If you plan on doing extensive milling or milling metals you will want something designed for that purpose.    Once you have defined your needs you can start looking for the model that fits.
  2. Like
    grsjax reacted to texxn5 in Whaleboat kit - Amati vs Model Shipways vs Blue Jacket   
    Hello Art, this is a very good question. I have investigated both models, and recently finished the Charles W Morgan which has 7 whaleboats. I have a good library on whaleboats. There were many variations of these boats as they were basically expendable. The Model Shipways to me seems to be the best choice, and the details are up to you as to how detailed you want to build it. I have a section on whaleboats on my website with a page called "New Bedford Whaleboats" and also a build log from another modeler who is building the MS model. Personally, I would go with the Model Shipways, and it is built in the USA.
    Check my website:
     
    http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com
     
    John
  3. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from Jaxboat in Mini Mill recommendations   
    Depends on what you want to do with it.  A lot of minor milling of wood can actually be done on a small drill press.  If you plan on doing extensive milling or milling metals you will want something designed for that purpose.    Once you have defined your needs you can start looking for the model that fits.
  4. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from Canute in Mini Mill recommendations   
    Depends on what you want to do with it.  A lot of minor milling of wood can actually be done on a small drill press.  If you plan on doing extensive milling or milling metals you will want something designed for that purpose.    Once you have defined your needs you can start looking for the model that fits.
  5. Like
    grsjax reacted to cristikc in small CNC laser and router for carving and engraving by cristikc   
    I had a little time to try carving with my new CNC
    you can see the results.
    It take some time to see the software adjustments, so i can "link" some draw and carving software
    detail look while is working

    final result of carving

    oposite way of carving
    The wood is not the best, because i wanted jut to make some tests

     
    Hope it is useful for the one that want to work with CNC for making small parts for shipmodels
    Cristi
  6. Like
    grsjax reacted to cristikc in small CNC laser and router for carving and engraving by cristikc   
    I saw questions about CNC (computer numeric control) router bought from china
    This days arrived the order for my CNC
    It is CNC 2418 with laser of 500mw, used for carving and engraving
    I will show how it arrived, beacause you have to assemble (it is a DIY kit), and thje first results
     
    This is how it is find on online shops from china

     
    the unpacking process



    electronic for the command


     
    stepper motors


     
    small parts



    cutting tools

     
  7. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Carving tools, books and carving woods discussion   
    Gravers used by jewelers are also a good tool for doing fine carving.  They come in different shapes and can be found fairly inexpensively on ebay and Amazon.
      This is a cheap set from Amazon. 
  8. Like
    grsjax reacted to michael mott in Miniature articulated sanding pad   
    I have been making up small sanding pads on the ends of some small section sticks to get to some tight spots on the ship restoration. Perhaps it was reading Stunt Flyer's build log and seeing the control line model on the wall, but something clicked.
     
    I went to the resource drawer and rummaged through the model airplane control bits and found just what I needed.
     

     
    I had some nice steel 3/16 hex stock on the shelf tapered one end and reduced the diameter to thread for 4 x 40 so that I could attach the control end.
     
    Then I pulled a length of Plastruct "T" section out of the plastic bin to make some pads
     

     
    I drilled the tabs so that they would snap onto the bolt in the end of the control link, this way I can make a number of different lengths and stick different grits or polishing fabric to the pads
     

     
    It seems to work well, I guess all that drywall sanding when I built this place stuck in the back of my mind.
     

     

     
    Now sanding the side of the hull will be much easier for the little helpers.
     
    Michael
     
  9. Like
    grsjax reacted to michael mott in Another third hand   
    I have really enjoyed working with the third hand clamping fixture that I took the day off work and made a new one from the proverbial scrap box. I am also going to link to all the other small clamping devices clamps and fixtures for holding small parts. I know that the forum is well organized by sections I just wanted to get the clamp threads linked into one place to save having to scroll through all the 26 pages of the tool section.
     
    I used some old legs from a tripod, A bit of blue anodized aluminum tube left over from a project. a scrap of spalted maple that I have had hanging around for years. some " O" rings for gripping the brass locking nuts. The blue tube and the tripod leg parts are a slide fit and by pushing them offset with the o ring nuts the units lock onto the scrap of 3/8th drill rod. The holes in the brass bars are the same as on the other third hand that i made a couple of weeks ago.
     

     

     

     

     

     
    Now for the links to the other ones I found in the 26 pages of tools
     
    A third hand for high places
     
    Holding tool for small parts 
     
    Clamp for holding rope for splicing
     
    make your own clamps
     
    Clamps and old trick revisited
     
    Preac clamps
     
    Homemade Mini clamps
     
    Another type of clamp
     
     
    Cheap keel clamp
     
    Tilt a whirl positioning fixture
     
    small wooden clamps
     
    I hope this helps.
     
    Michael
  10. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from Canute in Belaying pins colour   
    As Frankie says, green for bronze pins.  Iron pins would be black and wooden pins natural, untreated wood.
  11. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from thibaultron in Belaying pins colour   
    As Frankie says, green for bronze pins.  Iron pins would be black and wooden pins natural, untreated wood.
  12. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from mtaylor in Belaying pins colour   
    As Frankie says, green for bronze pins.  Iron pins would be black and wooden pins natural, untreated wood.
  13. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from thibaultron in Laburnum anagyroides or "golden rain"   
    Nice wood, fairly hard and has been used as a substitute for ebony.  Not a commonly available wood.  Usually used for turning and carving.  Reported to be easy to work.
    Average Dried Weight: 53 lbs/ft3 (850 kg/m3)
    Specific Gravity (Basic, 12% MC): .69, .85
    Janka Hardness: 2,020 lbf (8,990 N)*
    *Estimated hardness based on specific gravity
  14. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from Canute in Laburnum anagyroides or "golden rain"   
    Nice wood, fairly hard and has been used as a substitute for ebony.  Not a commonly available wood.  Usually used for turning and carving.  Reported to be easy to work.
    Average Dried Weight: 53 lbs/ft3 (850 kg/m3)
    Specific Gravity (Basic, 12% MC): .69, .85
    Janka Hardness: 2,020 lbf (8,990 N)*
    *Estimated hardness based on specific gravity
  15. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from Baker in Laburnum anagyroides or "golden rain"   
    Nice wood, fairly hard and has been used as a substitute for ebony.  Not a commonly available wood.  Usually used for turning and carving.  Reported to be easy to work.
    Average Dried Weight: 53 lbs/ft3 (850 kg/m3)
    Specific Gravity (Basic, 12% MC): .69, .85
    Janka Hardness: 2,020 lbf (8,990 N)*
    *Estimated hardness based on specific gravity
  16. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from mtaylor in Laburnum anagyroides or "golden rain"   
    Nice wood, fairly hard and has been used as a substitute for ebony.  Not a commonly available wood.  Usually used for turning and carving.  Reported to be easy to work.
    Average Dried Weight: 53 lbs/ft3 (850 kg/m3)
    Specific Gravity (Basic, 12% MC): .69, .85
    Janka Hardness: 2,020 lbf (8,990 N)*
    *Estimated hardness based on specific gravity
  17. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from mtaylor in Computer routers   
    I have been reading up on these routers since this topic got started and was wondering if anyone has experience with one using an Anduino control board with the Anduino IDE and GRBL software.  I have no experience with these machines or the software but from what I have read Anduino IDE/GRBL setup is easy to use and flexible.
  18. Like
    grsjax reacted to Chuck in Please Welcome "Wood Project Source" as a new sponsor of MSW   
    Please welcome and thank Wood Project Source for becoming a sponsor of Model Ship World.  WPS supplies milled wood sheets and strips along with carving blocks for many hobbies.  Their specialty is Alaskan Yellow Cedar Sheets and Carving Blocks.  Other species like Yellow Heart, Purple heart, Butternut, Applewood, Dogwood and Mahogany are soon to follow.

     

    They also carry the staples for our hobby like Boxwood, Swiss Pear and others.  They are just finishing up their new website so please have some patience with them as they continue adding more wood species and products to their online store.  They have many more than I listed.

     

    I have personally bought from them many times as they are close by and I gotten to know the owner.  I have bought some Yellow Cedar and Boxwood from them and will say that I am very happy with the quality of the wood.  They have fantastic prices and they are the lowest I have seen for some wood sheets.

     

    Please join me in welcoming them as a sponsor of MSW.

     

    Visit their site and check them out.  I am grateful they decided to become a sponsor and didnt hesitate after I asked them about it.

     

    www.woodprojectsource.com

  19. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from Canute in sharpening station   
    davec
    No need to use a guide.  I just give the edge a few light strokes along the 6000 grit periodically to keep the edge keen.  I find that I don't need the guide except when I have irregularities in the edge to work out.
  20. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from mtaylor in sharpening station   
    davec
    No need to use a guide.  I just give the edge a few light strokes along the 6000 grit periodically to keep the edge keen.  I find that I don't need the guide except when I have irregularities in the edge to work out.
  21. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from Canute in sharpening station   
    I use a piece of wood with a sheet of 6000 grit sandpaper glued to it for touch ups.  Put a drop of oil on the sandpaper and use it like a stone.
  22. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from thibaultron in sharpening station   
    I use a piece of wood with a sheet of 6000 grit sandpaper glued to it for touch ups.  Put a drop of oil on the sandpaper and use it like a stone.
  23. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from mtaylor in sharpening station   
    I use a piece of wood with a sheet of 6000 grit sandpaper glued to it for touch ups.  Put a drop of oil on the sandpaper and use it like a stone.
  24. Like
    grsjax got a reaction from aviaamator in Windlass on 1815 Revenue cutter   
    The tackle used was more than just a rope.  It usually consisted of two double blocks.  This gives a 4 to 1 mechanical advantage if the end of the line is belayed to the first block.  If the line is continuous, i.e. both ends free, the mechanical advantage is 5 to 1.  This would be more than enough purchase for two men to lift a 400 pound anchor.
  25. Like
    grsjax reacted to wefalck in Work surface   
    When, as a teenager, I started more serious modelling, I was given by my parents what was according to them an old baking- or pasta-making board. Essentially it was a pine board which had the end-grain covered with strips of the same wood. At both ends a sort of rim was screwed to it - on one side up and on the other side down; the latter sort of hooked the board against the table on which it was used. This board remained in use until I moved into my own appartment and constructed the work-bench I am still using today. The board was about 60 cm wide and 50 cm deep. If would make it today again, I would probably use some beech, rather than pine.
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