grsjax

Introducing the SYREN ROPE HANK TOOL
 
You will get three tools to make three different size Hanks.   These produce hanks to be neatly placed over belaying pins and cleats.   And yes another tool is forthcoming that will allow you to easily make round rope coils to be placed on deck, for examples for gun tackles.  This HANK tool produces elongated coils to mimic the correct shape when hung as would be effected by gravity.
 

Some assembly required.  Its really simple.   Just glue the small button or coil plug to the top of handle.  There is a laser etched reference to make placement easy.   I did sand the char off the top face and back of the handle.  But that's it.  There is no need to remove the char from the edges.   Once glued up...I applied a coat of Wipe-On-poly.  Lastly I rounded off ...or just knocked the sharp edge off the top edge of the coil plug.  Not much but just to soften it.  The small nail will be needed later...keep it handy but it is NOT permanently positioned.
 

Now you are ready to make a rope hank...Just grab a length of rope.  I am using Syren .018 rope which is common when rigging a ship with ropes belayed to pins or cleats.
 
Just stick the end into the slot to secure the rope on the left side....NO GLUE.   It will stay just fine.

 
Then wrap the rope around the coil plug 3 or 4 times.  I would NOT go around more than for times although you might want to try 5 times with thinner thread.   You dont want these hanks to be too heavy and clunky on your model.  TIP...I found it easier to rotate the tool rather than wrap the rope around the plug.  It actually helps prevent the rope from twisting as it sometimes does when you wind it around the plug.   As I was rotating the handle I just instinctively pressed each wrap down so they were neatly pressed together with no space between each wrap.  Nice and neat.  Go in a clockwise direction.
 

Now its time to take that handy little nail.   Insert it into the hole on the back of the tool.   Just press fit the nail into the hole so it is secure.  Take the rope through the notch to the back and around the nail.   Counterclockwise.  Easy-Peasy.

Bring the rope up the other side so it crosses over and then bring it back through the notch to the front of the tool.

Then take the rope and just stick it in the notch on the right side of the tool to secure it.   Not too tight but snug as you can see.

This is what it looks like on the back side...

Now I am using polyester rope from Syren so I must use CA to secure the rope hank in a few spots before moving forward.  Not a lot as you dont want to glue it to the plug .  I am using medium CA and applying with a toothpick.   Not a lot remember.  Just a little goes a long way.  If you are using Cotton rope you can use watered down white glue or Elmers.   
 
I start by added a little across all four coils at the top within the notch.
 

Then a little bit where the two ends touch the bottom coil.   This needs to be secure because we will be cutting these off soon.

You can add a little on each side across all four strands too.  Not a lot!!!  Wipe it away to prevent any staining or shiny spots.

The very bottom too!!

And lastly, flip it over do the bottom.  DONT glue the hank to the plug!!!

Next you can pull the pin....

Using one of the four small tools included or whatever you find easier,  even a tweezers or bent wire...you can experiment with whatever is easier for you, I found the tools worked just great.   There are different style tips.
 
Push that loop from the back of the tool through to the other side....the front.   Push it through under the rope coils.

Then grab it and pull it over the top of the hank.   This should be taught and the tighter you pull it towards the back the longer this loop will be in the end.   You can adjust how tight depending on how long a loop you will need to hang the hank on your belaying pin rail or cleat.

Add a drop of glue...

Then go around a second time.  Its not difficult at all.

Use the nail or whatever to pull it towards the back.   Adjust how tight to make this final loop as long as you need it.  If you want a shorter loop, dont pull so tight.   You get the idea.

Add more glue to the top to secure that loop....and then you can start freeing your hank from the tool.  Use a sharp NEW blade to cut the loose end.  Cut is as close to that bottom coil as you can without damaging the actual coil.

Discard that loose end....a nice clean cut.  Repeat on the other side.

Then simply lift the finished hank off the plug.   Hopefully you havent over done it with the glue.   You shouldnt have any glue that really touches the plug or handle while you did all that wrapping.   If you were successful, you should be able to push that hank off very easily from the back side.  Use one of the four small tools provided  as shown below.

And thats it....congrats you did it.   Now repeat because you will need a lot of these.   It goes quickly and makes some really neat rope hanks.

Thanks for watching.
 

Hello guys & gals,
 
I just want to let everyone know that I had to shut down the shop due to ongoing physical issues. I just want to thanks all the wonderful people I met and everyone who made a purchase and supported Modelers Sawmill. I'm leaving my email up until I have the last few orders out for delivery then I will shut down that as well.
 
Thanks again,
Joe Volpe

That could be true.  However Innocraftsman sources their tools from China.  Some of these tools have been available on the Chinese market for at least 5 years.  I don't know if anyone is pirating these designs from anyone else so it is an open question.

All or at least most of these tools are available from Aliexpress for a lot less money.

I recently reworked what had been an old Laughing Whale kit, the Square Toed Frigate.  This was a 30' version of a typical 19th Century scow sloop, so the kit is in 1/24 scale.  It's plank on bulkhead with lots of laser work including a deck with simulated trunnels and butt joints.  Planking mimics the original - longitudinal side and transverse bottom.  It's available now @ $199 plus shipping.  Kit #K1119.

This is a flat bottom boat used to move goods on the river and coastline of France in the 1800’s. I was thinking it would be easier planking experience with only half the hull:-) I read all the instructions about 20 sentences and 6 black and white figures. This build looks like it could be a challenge for me. 
 The spine, bottom and frames are 3mm plywood. I spent about a hour freeing them from the sheet.
 

 
After cleaning some of the charr,  I dry fitted all of them and placed the deck on hoping to see the plan in my head.
 

 
It didn’t come to me instantly. Looks like I may try finding it in a dream tonight:-)
 
Some of the questions I have right off the bat are. It doesn’t look like the notches in the deck line up perfectly with the frames. The middle one looks out of plum to me. I’m thinking I may glue the spine to the bottom and the 3 center frames all at one time and dry fit the deck to hold them in place. Then maybe do the 2 at a he stern and then the other 2 at the bow?
 
The stern dips down a little, leaving a gap between the spine and frame 7 and also a small one (you can’t see) at frame 9. 8 is that little piece holding the deck up.
 

 
There is one other build log here, He did one at a time. I’m not sure I will have the success he had, doing it like that. Any suggestions are welcome. 
 
I guess these things wouldn’t be as entertaining if they went together easy without a lot of thought:-)

This I believe is a mid 1900 German fishing boat. Skills of their trade were passed down through generations. This kit is a part of a diorama that I don’t intend to build. Hopefully I can furnish it with proper equipment. I would like to try the weathered look.
 

 

 
The frames and spine are plywood. The planking seems to be .5 mm basswood, the was laser cut. It has 3d printed tires, drums, fuel containers and small crates. The captains wheel, rudder and light are also printed.
 

 

 
 

Here is a link to the Wood Database for Mansonia https://www.wood-database.com/mansonia/
Straight grained black walnut can be used as a substitute.

Here is a link to the Wood Database for Mansonia https://www.wood-database.com/mansonia/
Straight grained black walnut can be used as a substitute.

There are several forum sites that discuss the use of metal tube to make thimbles. They look good but are difficult to replicate for small sizes, for example to have a hole that is half a millimetre diameter. There is also the difficulty of aligning a thread or rope to go around a thimble and not slip off before the glue grabs it. I suffered this when I used plastic beads for thimbles... 
 
The approach I describe here uses the insulation layer on a wire as the thimble. I used reclaimed telephone wire that is 0.8mm diameter over the insulation and 0.4mm diameter for the single strand of copper wire. Take a short length of wire of a suitable colour (I chose brown) and glue the thread around it so that it forms a single loop. (I used Gütermann linen thread, colour 4010, which is 0.3mm diameter and can pass for a served and leathered line. Superglue darkens this thread.)
Because there is a length of wire you don't have to be precise about where to place the loop or worry about it falling off. I used superglue and applied it with a pin that was barely wetted - if you can see a drop then it will drown the thread and refuse to harden, and instead wait for you to touch it with a finger. 
 
I then used dark brown, fly tying thread to seize the joint with a sequence of half hitches. Superglue does not stick well to the polythene insulation so the seizing performs its proper function and secures the join. The seizing also closes up the loop and so there is no visible gap between the thread and the thimble. 
Cut through the insulation and slide the thimble and line off the wire. The insulation layer can now be trimmed so it is flush with the rope ring around it. A fresh, sharp scalpel blade is vital for the trimming because a blunted blade will leave plastic hairs that are near impossible to remove. 



I have not yet needed to make larger thimbles which would use thicker wire. The useful colour for power wiring in the UK is brown (and black if you have hoarded some old or reclaimed cable) and the internal diameters are 1mm or more.
 
George

I just bought this 1910 printing of The Naval War of 1812 by Teddy Roosevelt. It's a cool book but that's not what makes it interesting. Check out who signed it.
I don't think the seller saw any significance to the signature.

Elmers wood filler is less gritty than Minwax filler (the only two I’ve tried). Some swear by Bondo (for filling car metal) at least if sanding and painting. 
 
For small filling, especially if intending to leave wood (not painting), the best is a slurry of wood left from sanding (the same wood you’re filling) white glue, and water. 

Tired hearing of "pirating". Proof of pirating must be presented before accusing. In general this issue is the matter for legal courts. Has little to do with consumers.

I agree, every time a similar product appears from the East on our markets we talk about 'pirates'. Strictly speaking, one can only talk about it, if the design or lable is legally protected, e.g. by a patent or a trade-mark.
 
I don't know, whether the 'Cool-Tool' designs of these modular machines (either in plastic or in metal) are (still) protected in any way. Fact is, that these products coming out of Austria, first appeared on the market in the late 1980s the latest. I recall having seen them in a shop in around 1988, when living in the UK. These Chines copies appear on our markets for the last few years, so a good 40 years later. Whether these are legal copies of an unprotected design or of a pirated design I can't really say. So perhaps, I shouldn't have used the P-word. On the other hand, there is no comparable European or US American product ...

That could be true.  However Innocraftsman sources their tools from China.  Some of these tools have been available on the Chinese market for at least 5 years.  I don't know if anyone is pirating these designs from anyone else so it is an open question.

Innocraftsman appears to be a storefront for the various Chinese hobby tools that can be found at any number of outlets..  Their pricing seems to be a bit aggressive compared to some other outlets like Amazon.
 
 
 

For instance, this little press from Innocraftsman for $249 can be found on Amazon for about $80.
 

This little mill on Amazon  looks like it might be a good alternative to the one in your OP..
 
 

All or at least most of these tools are available from Aliexpress for a lot less money.

Hi Jo,
 
Is the main mast glued into its hole? On your pic it is 90 degrees off. The pulleys must be parallel to the longitudinal axis of the ship, they will hold and raise the sail. Here is two picture of an original leudo (which is more a ship type than a name).
 
Anyways, really good craftmanship. Happy modeling!
 

 

I was about 6 when I started building balsa airplane kits. These used very thin sheet wood that had to be rolled and curved to make the fuselage and wings, and it was pretty tricky. Really out of my class at the time. They weren't a thing of beauty when I finished them, but I enjoyed building them.
 
At about 7-8 I saw my first plastic model (panther jet - probably Monogram) and I was hooked. I had a fleet of 18 plastic ships (mostly Revell) and a bunch of airplanes while in grade school. I built three or four plastic sailing ships with minimal kit rigging.
 
When I was about 10 I wanted a model of a schooner but there were no kits in my hometown hobby shops (mid 1950s and no model magazines or Internet). Our city library had no books on ship modelling. So I built my first scratch build out of balsa based on sketches of schooners from television ("Adventures in Paradise"). That was followed a year later with a scratch built 40 foot Chris Craft cabin cruiser like one of Mom's friends had. When they visited our lakefront place I got to drive it! Again, no plans, just sketches. I used a motor drive and propeller from a Lindberg destroyer kit.
 
So you shouldn't rush or delay kids if they are interested in ship models. 10-12 would have been way too late for me! Just encourage them if they show some interest and offer help if they need it. They will either try to build something or just forget it.
 
If you are going to start with a wooden kit, make it very simple, like a canoe kit, or one of the Vanguard wooden boat kits (the 18 foot cutter was pretty easy). There is a lot more to learn with wooden builds than something simple like gluing pre-shaped plastic pieces together.
 
****
 
Let me stress that there is no "one size fits all" age for kids to start modelling. Watch them, and if they like using their hands to make things they will be ready for some level of modelling. If they would rather read or play video games you will be wasting your time trying to introduce them to modelling.

I have a couple 8 yo grandchildren, boy(s) and girl(s). They like to look at my models but aren't ready to "craft." Two of them like art and draw; either of these two MIGHT be a candidate to entice...later. I'm giving only my direct experience, your mileage may differ!
I would suggest 10-12 yo is a better time to introduce model making. My bias is to start with a plastic kit. Close supervision and involvement is obviously mandatory, even at 10.
 
Thus far, I have many "fans and appreciators" but no "takers." The bright ones easily see the complexity and deep commitment of what Grandpa does and understandably show hesitation. I'm O.K. with that: a child's youthful impressions will last and may turn to interest and engagement in future decades...

I second that emotion!  Bookfinder is great and where I always go for anything other than new-on-the-shelf copies.   In many cases it is a good idea to use the broadest search criteria you have patience for, because the underlying booksellers' titles are often incomplete, or lacking an author's name.    Prices shown by Bookfinder are in US dollars (for me in the US, at least) and include shipping costs.  That makes it easy to make true cost comparisons.    They also show you who the actual provider is, so you can favor (or disfavor) particular vendors if you wish.    I've ordered dozens of books through their listings over the years.

To find books at reasonable prices I use BookFinder.com .  They list every book available online with prices including shipping.  I am sure there are some they miss but I have found it a great source.

They're related, same genus Tilia, but not the same. To say they are is misleading. The eminent European limewood has a history of being used for amazing carvings. Artists like Tilman Riemenschneider in the Gothic period and Grinling Gibbons in the Baroque did things with limewood that would be nearly impossible to do in American basswood. Basswood is no slouch, it being the wood used by most American carousel carvers, but the hardness and workability of limewood is superior, especially in smaller scale. They are both called "linden" sometimes but they are no more the same than butternut is walnut. There are at least two species of European lime, the small-leaved lime and the large-leaved lime, and it's possible one of them is better than the others. The Midwest company has done an amazing PR job for American basswood lumber. It was not much used historically.

Thanks again to all for their encouragement !
 
**********************************************
 
Some small progress in the true and literary sense of the word:

Bilge-pump
 
Although not drawn in the original drawings, the ship must have had at least one bilge-pump. Such pumps would be logically located at the lowest part of the hull, usually somewhere close to the mast. As its location is not marked on the drawings, this is a bit of guess-work.
While Downton-pumps or similar existed already, when the Rahschlup was designed, they were comparatively expensive items. As the ship was built in a rather economically marginal context, it is more likely that a traditional wooden pump was installed, that could also be built and maintained with local materials and by local craftsmen, such as a blacksmith. Nicely rendered drawings for such pumps can be found, for instance, in the Danish naval yard archive.

Example for a bilge-pump from the former Danish naval yard (extract from G-2357-09)
 
The trunk would have been fashioned from a single tree, typically elm, that was bored out with the aid of spoon- or canon-drills in a sort of primitive boring-lathe. Iron bands kept it together and served as attachment points for the lever. 
 
https://youtu.be/pj-XKqW29XE?si=9Q8RTsXOMxMuPPVN 
Example for drilling of wooden pipes.
 
I made a rough sketch to fix the dimensions and settled on a height of 4 mm and a diameter of 1 mm, which would be 64 cm and 16 cm on the original respectively. The body was turned from a short length of acrylic rod, leaving the future bands as proud rings.
The mechanism is composed of four lengths of 0.2 mm tinned copper wire. The wire was first bent to shape and flattened at the appropriate places with a special kind of flattening pliers. Initially, I intended to solder the parts together, but they were just too small and flimsy, so I settled on cementing them together with lacquer. The procedure is a bit difficult to document photographically while doing it, so there are only pictures of the finished product.

The completed bilge-pump
 
I am afraid the translucent pump does not show very well in the photograph, but I generally only paint everything at the very end to avoid damage during repeated handling.
 
To be continued …

Thanks for your initial interest!
 
*******************************

The basis for the model reconstruction
 
The model will not depict a specific ship, rather the reconstruction will be for the ‘type’, based on a set of drawings by a Joachim Möller (who was a builder in Rostock) dated to 1846 and preserved in the archives of the Rostock Maritime Museum (https://schifffahrtsmuseum-rostock.de). It is not known, to which ship, as they were not named, nor was a client indicated on the drawings. 

 
 
 
Sail plan and lines drawings of a Rahschlup drawn by Joachim Möller, dated 1846, Schiffahrtsmuseum Rostock.
 
They follow the practice of the time and give line and body plans as well as side elevation/longitudinal section and a sail-plan. This allows to reconstruct much of the deck-layout and the dimensioning of the visible woodwork. The sail-plan also contains a table with the spar dimensions.
 
Much of the details of the deck, the rigging and other fittings will have to be reconstructed from contemporary paintings and photographs of similar craft that survived into the late 19th or even into our times.
 
A valuable source of information are the books by Friis-Pedersen (1980 and1983), and Funch (1833 and 1846). Interestingly, the water-colours by Friis-Pedersen reproduced above show a Rahschlup virtually identical to that of the plans by Joachim Möller, but I doubt that Friis-Pedersen had access to these drawings, which were located in the GDR at the time.
 
General information on contemporary building practice in Germany can be found in Klawitter (1835) and Steinhaus (1858), which bracket the time, when this Rahschlup was designed. Masting and rigging details can be obtained from Bobrik (1848), Biddlecombe (1848), and Steinhaus (1869). The two Danish jagt measured by Nielsen (1973) give details on dimensions of scantlings and other parts, which are useful for upscaling. One should also not forget the detailed drawings of a Danish jagt in the ‘Souvenirs de la Marine’ by Pâris.
 
Other more or less contemporary (text)books on shipbuilding and rigging will be also consulted, but with caution, as they typically reflect the practice in larger ocean-going vessels. However, tables on spar and rigging proportions are still useful.
 
 
Various useful resources
 
No Web-site covering this type of coastal craft could be found yet (apart from my own).
 
There are, however, some sites that feature a Jacht, jagt (Danish), jakt (Swedish) or slup (Norwegian, Swedish) under restauration. The most interesting site was the one documenting the restoration of the small Norvegian slup RUTH (1854, https://www.sluppenruth.dk), however the many photos of the process seem to have disappeared from their Web-site since I downloaded them five years ago. The restoration project for the Danish Jagt 'JENSINE AF HADERSLEV' (https://www.jensine.dk) from 1852 is also interesting, because the photographs show many original details of such and the steps of reconstructing unsound or missing parts. It should be noted that all these restorations altered the original deck-layouts with a view to accommodate the needs of cruising vessels and modern safety at sea requirements.
 
A replica of a Danish Jagt has been constructed at the museum shipyard of Flensburg on the basis of the lines of the DE FIRE BRØDRE (1794), whose lines are reproduced in NIELSEN (1973). Unfortunately, their Web-site does not give any details on this project beyond the launch that took place in 2009. Pictures of her construction can be seen here:https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/ontour/flenswerft/.
 
The Altonaer Museum in Hamburg has a fine collection of models of small 19th century merchant sailing ships. These models were constructed in 1/24 scale between 1909 and 1912 from plans in the museum collection and plans on loan from various shipyards of the region (Timmermann, 1974) by a boatbuilder, a blockmaker and a sailmaker. While these models are not contemporary to their prototypes, their builders were presumably close enough to the time to have reproduced reasonably well the then current practices of construction and rigging. Below are two pictures of the Schlup ELBE (1836). More pictures of these models can found at https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/hamburg/altona.html.


Model of the Schlup ELBE (1836) in 1/24 scale. Built by D. Behrens in Schulau (near Hamburg) for Hans Oestmann (Inv. Nr. AB 1813, Altonaer Museum, Hamburg) 
 
Over the years more and more museum holdings in terms of drawings and paintings have been digitised and made available through the Internet, namely those of the (maritime) museums of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. This allowed to consult numerous paintings of Norvegian and Swedish slups and Danish jagts.
 
Literature
 
As for graphical resources, most of the literature listed below has become available as digital copies over the past 20 years, which allows to consult even rather rare books remotely.
 
BIDDLECOMBE, G. (1848): The Art of Rigging.- 155 p., Salem, Ma. (Reprint 1990 by Dover Publication, New York).
 
BOBRIK, E. (1846): Handbuch der praktischen Seefahrtskunde.- Vol. 1-7: 2688 p., 50 pl. Zürich/Hamburg (Julius Fröbel & Co./Hoffman & Campe).
 
Chapman, H. Af (1768): Architectura Navalis Mercatoria.- 103 pp., Rostock (Reprint 1968 at VEB Verlag Hinstorff).
 
Fleischfresser, K., Hoffmann, R. (1975): Segler von Haff und Bodden. Pommersche Küstenschiffahrt.- 96 pp., Hamburg-Norderstedt (Verlag Egon Heinemann).
 
[Friis-Pedersen, J.] (1980): Sejlskibe - Danskbyggede traeskibbe opmålt, tegnet og fotograferet.- Handels- og Søfahrtsmuseets på Kronborg Søhistoriske Skrifter IX: 107 pp., København (Høst & Søn).
 
[Friis-Pedersen, J.] (1983): Sejlskibe - Nordiske fartøjer opmålt, tegnet og fotograferet.- Handels- og Søfahrtsmuseets på Kronborg Søhistoriske Skrifter XI: 96 pp., København (Høst & Søn).
 
Funch, D.H. (1833): Praktisk Skibbyggerie. Et Forsøg.- 76 folding (some are quite large) lithographed plates, including 28 in full color & many others tinted or heightened in color. 76 pp., 1 leaf of errata; 64 pp.; 223, [4] pp., 1 leaf of errata. Three parts in one vol., Kjøbenhavn (Luno & Schneider).
 
Funch, D.H. (1843): Afhandling om coffardiskibes constructionen. Et Forsøg.- 2 bd. (6) + 74 + (2) +92 p., 17 fold. plancher, 9 tabeller og 3 blade med forklarende tekst, Kjøbenhavn (trykt paa Forfatterens Forlag).
 
Funch, D.H. (1846): Dansk Marine-Ordbog, 1ste Part.- 170 pp. + 67 Pl., Kjøbenhavn (Forfatterens Forlag, reprint 1976 by Høst & Søn, Copenhagen).
 
Gøthche, M. (1980): Sluppen Ruth – rapport om restaurering af Nationalmuseets slup..- Maritim Kontakt, 1: 59-77, København.
 
Klawitter, K.G. (1835): Vorlegeblätter für Schiff-Bauer für die Königlichen Schiffbau-Schulen.- 40 pp., Berlin (Petsch, reprint 1978 by H. Hamecher, Kassel).
 
Monrad Møller, A. (1988): Jagt og skonnert. Studier i den danske provinssøfart i tiden fra 1814 til 1864.- 273 p., København (Forlaget Falcon).
 
Nielsen, C. (1973): Danske Bådtyper.- 152 pp., København (Høst and Søns Forlag).
 
Olszak, H. (2014): Hölzerne Fischereiboote der südlichen Ostseeküste. Vermessene Relikte und rekonstruierte Zeitzeugen.- 276 p., Henningsdorf (Eigenverlag Michael Sohn/Sohn-Art).
 
Rudolph, W. (1958): Die letzten hölzernen Frachtfahrzeuge der kleinen Küstenfahrt auf Rügen (m. Pers.-Literaturangaben u. Abb.).- Balt. Stud., NF, 45: 137-43.
 
Rudolph, W. (1958): Die Schiffstypen der ländlichen Frachtschiffahrt in den Gewässern der Insel Rügen.- Dt. Jb. f. Volksk., IV: , Berlin (Ost).
 
Rudolph, W. (1962): Rügischer Schiffbau auf den Werften zu Seedorf.- Greifswald-Stralsunder Jb.: ?.
 
Rudolph, W. (1966): Handbuch der volkstümlichen Boote im östlichen Niederdeutsch-land.- 150 pp., Berlin (Akademie Verlag).
 
Rudolph, W. (1969): Segelboote der deutschen Ostseeküste.- 145 pp., Berlin (Akademie Verlag).
 
Steinhaus, C.F. (1858): Die Schiffbaukunst in ihrem ganzen Umfange – I. Theil: Die Theorie der Schiffbaukunst, II. Theil: Die Schiffbaukunst in der Praktik.- 158+170 pp. + 4 Tafeln, Hamburg (P. Salomon & Co., reprint 1977 by Horst Hamecher, Kassel).
 
Steinhaus, C.F. (1869): Die Construction und Bemastung der Segelschiffe.- 137 pp., Hamburg (L. Friedrichsen & Co., reprint 1977 by Horst Hamecher, Kassel).
 
Szymanski, H. (1929): Zur Geschichte der schleswig-holsteinischen Jachten im 19. Jahrhundert.- Der Kleinschiffbau – Z. f. Gebrauchs- u. Sportfahrzeuge aller Art, ?: 209f., Berlin.
 
Szymanski, H. (1929): Die Segelschiffe der deutschen Kleinschiffahrt.- Pfingstblätter des Hansischen Geschischtsvereins, Bl. XX, 81+XXI pp., Hamburg.
 
Szymanski, H. (1934): Deutsche Segelschiffe.- Veröff. Inst. f. Meereskunde, N.F. B, H. 10: 167 pp. + 92 Taf., Berlin.
 
Timmermann, G. (1974): Das Schiffbauhandwerk.- Schausammlungen des Altonaer Museums, H. 1: 93 p., Hamburg (Altonaer Museum).
  
To be continued