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Matt D

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Everything posted by Matt D

  1. Matt D
    Hi Alec. I used Testors enamel on the canon and the gaff cheeks with just a little trouble: CA stripped a little bit of paint off of the gaff cheeks. In the end, it was so little that I didn’t bother touching it up for fear of making a bigger mess.
  2. Matt D
    Hi Alec. I used Testors enamel on the canon and the gaff cheeks with just a little trouble: CA stripped a little bit of paint off of the gaff cheeks. In the end, it was so little that I didn’t bother touching it up for fear of making a bigger mess.
  3. Matt D
    She’s looking great! What variety of Home Depot plywood are you using? I was thinking about starting this project and doing the same thing, but I am not sure which 1/4 inch plywood would work well versus the more expensive Baltic birch 5-ply stuff that I’ve seen at the craft stores. I don’t mind spending $70 on plywood, unless I can get away with spending $30.
  4. Matt D
    It looks like you’re off to a good start. I’m nearing completion on the same kit. I recommend reviewing the other build logs to see examples of how others have built this model. I have learned a lot from reading and interacting on this site. I hope you have a great experience building and logging it as I have.
  5. Matt D
    Your pieces look fantastic, Matthias! I think making the false keel in one piece instead of three was a good idea.
  6. Matt D
    I have only found their Spanish website, www.constructo.es. They make an updated version of the same kit today. Model Expo now carries it, too. I have the same kit you have sitting on a shelf waiting to be built. So I will follow your progress with great interest.
  7. Matt D
    Dan, In case you haven’t been thanked for this lately, I wanted to tell you how much I appreciate your work on these log files. They are a great help and I use them all the time. I’m sure you put a lot of effort into keeping them updated. Thank you!
  8. Matt D
    I made my sails this evening. I had the material - a fine linen remnant - from a few months ago when I first started thinking about making my own sails. I used masking tape to mark the seam lines the same way that Sardonicmeow did it. I picked thread that I thought would show up, but it blends in pretty well with the fabric. Here are my sails with the factory sails. The seams show up pretty well with any amount of backlighting. Here is the rake issue I described earlier. I think this is an error in the kit, but it's pretty minor. I will shorten the gaff to avoid interference with the main mast. As Peter recommended, I have moved the double-block to above the shroud lines Peter, Paul, and Mark: Thank you very much for your feedback today.
  9. Matt D
  10. Matt D
    Peter, you're the best! I will move that block up when I get a few minutes to work on it tonight. It should be easy to cut and pull the wire off. I noticed that the foresail gaff is too long, too. Along with using your photos, I've been using the large photos that came with the kit. They're as close as can be to 1:1. Last night, I was trying to gauge the length of the beckets that hang from the gaffs with floating blocks (I don't know the correct term for that line). To do that, I laid the model on the sheet and could see right away why the gaff is too long: The foremast is raked further back on my model then in the photo. It's installed in the factory hole with the rake set by the false keel cut-out, and I know it's perfectly straight. So this is an error in the kit. But it looks like there's room to shorten the gaff without any problems. I'll post a picture later to show what I mean. I'm not sure I want to talk about this, but I'm thinking about making my own sails for this model. The main rub for me is the giant ugly hems on the factory sails. I was looking at the photos in the kit and they have nice narrow hems like yours. I have the right fabric and I bought a light tan thread to use that will give just a bit of contrast. One thing that has held me back is the line that runs around the outside of each of the factory sails. I wasn't sure I could attach them to the ship correctly without the built-in lines. I see that you've made it work without that line and I can now see how your sails are attached. So I'm inching closer to breaking out the old Singer. It's probably one evening of sewing and I'm afraid I'll regret it if I don't. One more question, Peter: How did you make the loops on the gaff with space to thread the line later? Every time I try, I either get a loop that's too loose to get nicely in place or so tight that I won't be able to attach the line later. Yours look very nice, but It think you used a magic trick to make them.
  11. Matt D
    Thanks, Wallace. Peter’s is definitely my main reference for figuring out the rigging. I’ve found that I can zoom in on his pictures with my iPad to 1:1 to get the block locations correct.
  12. Matt D
    It has been hard to find time for model building with summer activities. But I’ve got all but one line of standing rigging done and I’m starting to get the blocks ready for the running rigging. I have poured over the drawings and found the best instructions are in other build logs. Here are a few pictures.
  13. Matt D
    Peter, I definitely like the older anchor better than the one in the 2018 photo. But I also like the additional contrast that the dark band creates. It’s really neat that you have all of this info on the ship to get the details right. I don’t think you can go wrong either way.
  14. Matt D
    Thanks, Mark. I appreciate you taking the time to check it out. I am starting to work on the standing rigging and will post some pictures over the weekend.
  15. Matt D
    I tried to modify the rudder and ended up with it too short to reach the helm. So I built a new one using the leftover lime from the keel. It is cut to curve around the bottom corner of the transom I’ve also started installing the deck furnishings and preparing the masts. My next step will be to install the anchors and bitts.
  16. Matt D
    I knew I'd find good company there! Thanks for the compliment, Peter. Your Sultana is looking great. I was showing my 11 YO son what you'd done, too. It was good for him to see what can be done if you use your imagination and find the right tools. We got a good laugh out of the picture of the solid hull in the trashcan.
  17. Matt D
    Future builders of this model: this post is for you. I have the same rudder problem that everyone else has had. I also think I just figured out how I could have averted it if I’d noticed before I sanded the keel even with the stern piece. As I see it, the problem is that the stern piece is too small. I would say I built it wrong and the stern piece is too far forward of the transom, but you can see if you go through the other builds that nearly every one of them has the same problem. So I’m going to blame Artesania Latina instead of the fine model builders of Model Ship World. If you look at the drawing blow-up below, you can see the stern piece even with the bottom corner of the transom. Mine is almost 3mm shy of that corner. If I could back up time about a week, I’d have cut a filler piece out of the scrap from the keel and glued it onto the back of the stern piece. That would have evened it up and the rudder would fit just like the pictures on the box. Instead, I’m going to join the Virginia 1819 Modified Rudder Club, where I know I’ll find some good friends.
  18. Matt D
    Thanks, Paul. Once I had an idea of how I wanted to build the stand, it was a lot of fun to put together. That’s a really neat idea. But I’m looking forward to rigging it the way it’s shown on the box, all ready to set out on a voyage.
  19. Matt D
    Thank you very much for your kind words, Mark. It helps a lot to see how others, including you, have handled the challenges of this build. Logging the build has made it much more fun.
  20. Matt D
    I’ve spent some good quality time in the shipyard the past week and a half and wanted to update my log.I added the rubbing strakes after using the bowl trick to get a nice curve in them. With the added width of the rubbing strakes, my model no longer fits in the temporary cradle I had built. Rather than spend time on fixing that, I built the stand I plan to display it on. I really like the launch that Peter built (SardonicMeow), but I wanted something more like a dry dock. This is what I came up with out of wood I had laying around. Of course, the awkward part is going to be when it’s all done and it’s sitting in dry-dock with unfurled sails.
  21. Matt D
    It looks great, Peter! Thanks for sharing it.
  22. Matt D
    I ruined my rubbing strakes. Somewhere along the way, I used two of the rubbing strake applewood pieces where I should have used mahogany. So I didn’t have four matching pieces. I decided to stain them darker so they would all match, but I overdid it on darkness. So I had to cut new 2x3mm strakes out of some larger applewood stock that I found at the hobby store. Here’s a pic of the dark stained original and my four fresh cut replacements.
  23. Matt D
    Peter, I love your transom windows. They look really nice. I especially like The way you built the assembly up.
  24. Matt D
    Happy Easter! Here are some pics of my recent progress on the second layer of planking. I’ve done some sanding on the port side to see how it would smooth out. I’m pretty happy with it and hope I can do as well or a little better on the starboard side.
  25. Matt D
    Hi Danny. I saw that you’ve changed the index for wooden ship kits from pdf to xls. For some reason, the links don’t work for me now. Have you heard this from others? Or am I doing it wrong?

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