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Vane

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Everything posted by Vane

  1. Excellent build. Looking forward to see the shots of Granado as i am building her myself
  2. Congrats, I am sure you will be really happy with this kit. It will also be great to see more buildlogs of the Speedy. I just have a limited experience with various kits but its a different level on all counts compare to what i have seen so far. My Diana is a great build but its way outdated in plans and in design. The "newer" Granado from Caldercraft is much better but its still not even near Vanguards.
  3. One interesting thing would be to see some "comparison photos" of how the difference in different wood will look like. It doesnt need to be the full ships but just something which will explain the difference in style using Tanganyika, pear, box and walnut.
  4. I think your photography is excellent of the ships and also the "explaining" photos. I also dont mind the blue background at all. I am only talking about consistency where the colours are slightly different in different shots. You can either fix this "in photoshop" or perhaps better (and which will save u some time considering how many photos you take) is to make sure you are using the same settings and setup for every photo. My guess is that you have had the "whitebalance" setting in auto, and the camera has interested it differently where some photos are "too cold". Just switch the whitebalance to manual and 5500K usually match most flash. In "Product photography" consistency is key, compared to other forms of photography where you might want to be more exprimental. Just find a style that suites you and your website and stick with it.
  5. The only "complaint", and now i am really picky (and most because i am a photographer myself) , is that the whitebalance of some colour photos seam to be slightly off, making them kind of blueish. There are hundreds of photos so this is just estitical.
  6. Plans are of high quality and a Good thing is that much of the bigger illustrations is in 1:2 scale making each plan small. I really hate those enormous sheets that are folded 10times.
  7. Thought i would say a few things about the manual and plans while being far away from my kit. Compared to my previous experience with Corel and Caldercraft, Chris has again done something much better. 60pages of instructions with a huge number of colour photos. So far i have not even had to look at the plans. The photos says it all and its very little text you have to read. I am not sure what its called in English, but the pages are put together with wire making its really easy to fold up the page u need to look at.
  8. Those lazers are increadable! Putting modelling to a New level. How much do they actually costs?
  9. Unfortunately, this will be my last build update for a few weeks. I am on the far side of the world to get some sun. I even thought of bringing some parts with me so i could keep Working on her but decided not to. Anyway, 2nd planking is progressing and the boxwood is excellent to work with. I might do a few tweets on the kit itself but the shipyard is closed for the holidays.
  10. Thanks, I will try this technique some day and see which one I prefer.
  11. It doesnt matter what type of Wood. You are just heating up the ricin inside the Wood and when it cools down its like gluing the internal fibers to a new position.
  12. Increadible build! I which to do Agamemnon some day as well! Just a technical issue I dont understand why. But I have seen several people "ink" the ratlines rather than using black thread. Why?
  13. The heat makes the wood flexible and once it cools down it fixes itself in the new position.
  14. Thanks. I dont use water at all. I just fix a strip of Wood with 3 clamps to an old cutting board. Then I open the left clamp and bend the strip as far as possible in the "wrong" direction without it breaking and clamp it down again. Then I do the same to the right side. Sometimes I adjust the position and even bend it further by adding an additional clamp. Once I got the shape I want, I take my airgun and heat up the bended parts for 20 seconds and then let it rest and cool down for a few minutes. Remove the clamps and viola.. u are done!
  15. Thanks alot. Boxwood looks really flat and precise once its sanded. Some people just use Walnut and hardly sand at all. I have started to pay more attension to everything nowadays. It will be really intresting to compare my Tanganyika Granado hull with this Boxwood hull once things start to be finilized.
  16. Yes I know, this looks ridicurlos! However, by using leftover walnut strips on the areas that will be coppered i will save at least 25 strips of boxwood. I am also not that carefull on the details here. Pins, Water and PVA!
  17. Thanks 4 the support. Since this is the first buildlog on Vanguards Speedy, I try to explain more and also review the kit as i work on it.
  18. Interesting, I have to try that too. there are many ways to do this. But i Think the gamechanger for me was when i bought my heatgun from Proxxon and started prebending the planks sideways. Everything fits so much better.
  19. To fix the plank i put CA on the first 10cm and press it down for just a few seconds until it sticks. Thereafter I use a toothpick or some pointy scrapwood with CA on top of it adding more on the plank and press it down. Repeat a few times and finally the whole plank is fixed.
  20. When i did this the first time I used boiling water, PVA and pins. That is ok if you will paint the hull completely and can use woodfiller afterwards. Nowadays, especially on models when the wood will be visable, I have upgraded my technique and go with the "Chuck method". Instead of bending and pinning down the plank, I spend much more time on preparations. This involves two things: i prebend the plank in the "wrong direction" using hot air and clamps. I also spend some time on sanding to make sure it will lie flat against the previous plank. The final result is an S-shaped plank.
  21. The first plank of the second planking is always really important to get right. Here i also like the design with lasercut markings so you dont need to measure anything.
  22. This part of the work is a bit repetitive but done with the first step. These are very small.
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