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A hex nut! Great thought Rich! The ingenuity on this site never ceases to amaze me I would have taken all day with a compass a pensile and probably a straight edge and it still  wouldnt have loked any better. Nice job. If your looking for making sheets of "glass" Davids acetate is your best bet I would think. If your trying to fill in an area like a recess there are liquid solutions at art stores. I used something called  Gallery Glass from Plaid Enterprises. It worked pretty good, not great, just pretty good. It was the best I found for filling recesses although it took several applications. My first choice would be the acetate though. Hope that helps
Sam
Bw, welcome home.

Have a great time rich.
sam

Wow dave, thank you for the incredibly kind compliments!! I am enjoying the journey. Always good to know my mistakes are helping others.    
Sam

Woo Hoo! Assignment is done and now back to building. 
 
I discovered the other day my rear trucks are 0.020" oversized. Insert appropriately colorful Longshoreman vocabulary here. I almost said I will live with it but they are very close to the same size as the front trucks. I didnt want to make all new parts since I am getting low on Manzonia but didnt feel I would be able to cut them down cleanly by hand. What to do. What to do. Back to the wood lathe and make a new cutting tool........ I used the back side of the front cutter and now all I need to do is reverse the tool. With 1:51 being such on odd scale I most likely will never use this tool again but its there if I need it. I might work for 1:48. 
 
Then I needed a way to hold the truck firmly and centered to the tool. 
 
A couple of weeks ago I tried to make an arbor to spin the truck and cut a small chamfer on the edges. That failed when I discovered the #2 screws were the same size as the axels. I salvaged that and turned my trucks down. Some broke, more have an imprint os the hex head, but many of them are usable. I may still have to cut some new parts, but I wont have to replace all of them.
 
Sorry for the blown out back grounds on some of the pictures, I was shooting against a concrete driveway and was too lazy to set up a backdrop for this.
 
 
Making a new cutting tool

 
The finished tool

 
 
An arbor to hold the over sized trucks

 
In use

 
 
The result. Based on the drawings here at MSW, the new and improved trucks are 0.005" undersized, I can live with that.

 
Now to figure out a jig to make the bolts that hold the trucks together. Not sure if I can pull this one off since I dont have an indexing head. I have lots of scrap trucks to play with though.
 
Thats it for now,
Sam

LOL! Thanks for the compliments. As far as supplying to others, I will direct everybody to a post several pages back where I reminded Robbyn about a mantle for my parents fireplace I started in High School..........My dad got tired of the wait and passed on, mom gave up and bought her own and my brother installed it. That was one of the first things he pointed out to my better half when she (me?) committed the grave tactical error of meeting the family. 
 
Rich, finishing up a job this week, hopefully I can get back to work over the weekend, might have a couple of assembly pictures for you if you are still noodling about how to assemble yours.
 
Carl! Its been a long time, does this mean your building again? I will have to drop in and see.
 
Augie, see my above disclaimer on manufacturing. 
 
Brian no need to apologize, we all build to our level of satisfaction. Master Builder??? Thank you very much, but I feel I have quit a ways to go before I deserve that title. 
 
Thanks all for the likes and comments, hope to be back to building in the next few days.
 
Sam

Thank you for the kind words and taking some of your precious little time back to visit all of us Bindy! We have missed you. A new avatar, you never told us your a model!
As far as "how its done" I cant speak for others, but that's how I did it. Most likely there is an easier way. My mind typically finds the more difficult path from A to B. I am please with the results so far though.
Hmm 'Break Time," after today thats going to be non-existent for the next week or two.
Build wise not much to show. I have drilled the holes for the belay pins in the cross piece and started on my new scratch built ladders; Constructo......? Since I do not have decent lighting in my garage any power tool use is done during the day, so today I am finishing the last cutter for the trucks, I might even get them all cut out. I dont plan on talking any "breaks" till I finish the machine work, so I shouldnt break any more bits or taps................Who am I kidding???
Sam

Thank you all for looking inn and the nice words....also for the likes !!!!!!!
 
@ Grant,
 
You are right, it is not a race but I was only wonder how Mobbsie can do this in a short time.
Maybe what Augie is saying is right....He has help from Merlin
I'm gonna check it out next week !
And O boy, when I find Merlin.........
 
@Augie,
 
Yes, she is changing when she's got some colour.....
Now I know what I can expect when she has her final colours.....
And my time is coming to do nothing else as building........in a few years.....
Let me see, I'm gonna be 38 so......to long !!!!!!!!!!!!
 
@ John,
 
Welcome on board of this monster !
And yes, I have a wale of a life time
 
@ Popeye,
 
Only the wales are on it, not the rails.
I have to do that later on.
But I'm glad that you like it.
When someone saying it and that person is building 9 models at the same time, I have to believe it !!!!!!
 
@ Bob,
 
Thanks !
I'm not at that level what you are doing but I'm gonna get there.....
 
@ Frank,
 
Thanks !!!!!!!
 
@ Mobbsie,
 
You don't have to send Merlin to me.
When we are leaving England, I know for sure that he is in my suitcase......
I almost feels sorry for you when I read all the things that you have to do from your Admiral !
If you wish, I wanna have a chat with her about that
 
@ Sherry,
 
I have to do it on my own !
The rigging Gnomes are still on holiday !
It goes slow but steady.......
 
@ Robbyn,
 
Has anyone tells you that you are an optimist ????????
Soon at the ratlines.........I don't thinks so .
Maybe in 2 years or something like that
 
@ Jason,
 
Thanks.
And time for an answer.......
Do you mean the kit or the difference between OcCre and Caldercraft ?
Qua builds it is almost the same ship.
Qua kits.....not much but enough.
On OcCre kits they have a lot of metal parts and plastic blocks.
They give you a book with pictures what you have to do.
No big sheets , only small ones......
There is no sheet with 1:1 scale.
Sometimes that is difficult when you want to measure something.
The wood is excellent.
Caldercraft has better plans ( 9 sheets )
The wood is most of the time perfect only the wood for the second planking is terrible.
I think that they are thinking that it is only used as planking because you have to paint it and place copper plates on it.
Everything fits nicely with just a little touch up.
I hope this will answer your question.
 
@ Mark,
 
I'll take my time ,no worries about that.
And pictures?
Pffffffffff
I think I have to disappoint you......
Coming sunday it is cleaning time for the work shop and then the build will be on hold for almost 4 weeks
We have to check out if Merlin is at Mobbsie's house
But when we are back home, there will be a lot of pictures !
I place them again at the Picasa Web so everyone can see what we have done in that good Old England !
 
This is a long post but I have said what I want to say
 

I'd say also leave off the trunnions as well, just mould a little dimple as a drill start point. They're easy enough to make with wire afterwards.
 
Andy

Sherry,
 
Try it and see what works best, but in my experience, using many different types of resin, the vaseline is highly likely to inhibit the cure if there is any noticeable quantity of it in the mold cavity...... See my post above about powder. If you do not wish to powder the mold, then I would suggest using the mfg'r recommended mold release spray.
 
If you are talking about using vaseline over the master before pouring the rtv mold itself, then yes....vaseline or a thinned version of it works great so that the rtv silicone rubber does not stick to the master part. Be sure there is no porosity in the master either. Any sort of wood or other porous material used for the master part must be sealed and polished or buffed up to as nice a finish as you can get. The rtv rubber will capture the smallest flaw left on a master part, and be in the curd mold. When you later start casting parts, that flaw will be on each and every part. Even including such tiny flaws as brush marks or fingerprints.
 
Having done casting and mold work in the past for many 'cottage industry' companies in the scale modeling community....cars, trains, boats, planes, figures and many other items, for such companies as The Laughing Whale / Blue Jacket, Copper State Models, Liberty, Squadron, Tom's Modelworks, Fisher Model and Pattern and more, both in resin production and pewter, I'd like to think I gained some decent understanding and experience with the materials and the processes
 
 
Joe

spoken like a true pack rat!  

Don't know if this will help Augie, but I got pretty good results with construction paper.

Have been busy making hatches, coamings and gratings for the gun deck.  These are all permanently fixed to the false deck and will be planked around.  I used simple lap joints for the corners.  The gratings were supplied laser cut.  The hatch with the pull rings used eyebolts and separate rings made from fine black annealed wire.
 

 
The corners were slightly rounded above planking level.  All are basswood and were stained with diluted Golden Oak.  The bottoms were sanded lightly to match the curvature of the false deck.
 

 
The treenailed platform behind the aftmost grating is for the capstan.
 

 
Just behind the foremast hole you'll see the coaming for the stove's platform.  This has not been set permanently on the deck as we now need to create a 'bricked platform' .  We'll take a closer look at this later on (after I figure out how to do it) .
 
Hope everyone is well and prepared to have some grog to celebrate the coming solstice
 
 
 
 

Looking good Sjors.
 
Don't try and keep up to Mobbsie's pace - those "gentlemen of leisure" have it too easy! We workers will just have to plod along at our own pace. Luckily, it's not a race, and as long as we're enjoying the journey, it doesn't matter when we finish.

The main wale and upper wale at the port side are on.
I have planked to the top.
When I was finished with that I wanted to see how it looks when there was paint on it.
But is is not funny when you are seeing it alone so I post a few pictures....
Beware....this is only the primer, not the real paint !!!!!!!
I know there is a lot of touch up but that's for when all of it is gonna get's the real paint.
Now I can go to the starboard side and do the same thing.......
But I know for now that it is a lot of planking !!!!!
And I have to go down to the keel also.
That takes a few months.....
It's for me a riddle how Mobbsie can do that so quick !!!!!!
I know....I have to go for work......
 

Hello All, Thanks for the comments and Likes, as always very much appreciated. 
 
After taking the Advice from David  & Glen, (thanks again)
 

As you can see the pencil line I carefully cut and sanded this off, it fits great now, I still have other side so to.
 
 

I did make a cannon,( not fully glued as i there are a few things i want to do, but just to prove its now at the right hight. (There is not decking under the cannon, I had removed it,so it will be a few mm higher.
   
Will work on the rest for the next week or so

Some more pictures:
 
    All windlasses instaled - I´m testing a cam tripod on those ones
 

 

 

 

See ya mates!     My whole shipyard crew including my Admiral have packed our sea bags and will be sailing the pirate infested waters of the Caribbean.

Hi Mark.
Welcome to MSW.
 
I use water(cold) to wet the plank and then I use a large wattage soldering iron with my home made bit on the end approx 25mm dia.
Just wet the planks and run the iron over one side and when warm bend the plank into shape. You will notice the planks trying to curl up.
Bend the planks just a little bit more then needed. And let them dry
Never had any issues with plank bending using this method.
 
Regards Antony.

I've rough finished all three fife rails. I've set them in position for the pics, but I have to fine finish them next before gluing them..

It's very slow going making these fife rails. The mizzen rail is done, now I'm 3/4 through the foremast rail. I hope to get all three done before I give leave to my shipyard crew Friday night so we can all go to the Caribbean .

Rich,
I have split many a piece of wood by trying to drill too fast - pushing the bit through the wood instead of letting it cut its way through. In addition to the above suggestions I try to spin the pin vice back and forth letting the cutting edge do the work. Just a thought.
Sam

Try using a smaller diameter drill bit then use a reamer to widen it out.  This will prevent spliting.
David B

Not a mistake, Daniel.  I'm doing a capsized frigate that was caught in the Great Hurricane of 1780.   :D    

OK Grant ---- you got me on that one.  British subjects are pretty good in their native tongue.  Being born in Brooklyn, I consider English as my second language
 
Alas, both the friend and the Chapelle were apparently Shang-hai'd !

Sam:
Thanks for the kind words. I do not want to bore anyone with my reports. I am glad if something I offer helps. I am always learning from others work here on MSW as well.
 
Popeye:
Thanks for the kind words.
 
Thanks everyone for the likes. I appreciate it.
 
Russ