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iMustBeCrazy
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Everything posted by iMustBeCrazy
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If you do, just dampen the paper with a cotton bud (Q-tip) and it will peel straight off. It will leave a glue residue which will need to be washed off (again with a cotton bud). Practice on some discards. -
No, but I'm going to. Ok, glue needs to dry. Tim, your extensions might be a little long. You need to be able to clamp in as well as down: And when you are doing it for real, sand the planks before fitting them, particularly the inside.
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Some progress, luckily I realised I needed to leave tabs sticking up from the moulds to hold the floors in place:
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HMS Renard 1872 by Draque - 1/24 - POF
iMustBeCrazy replied to Draque's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Michael, when you go to print there will be a size or scale option. The default is probably something like "Fit to page" or "fit to Margins". You want the option that allows you to set a percentage like the "Custom scale" option in the screenshot. Print first at 100% and check the print for size. If it's wrong then "measurement I want" divided by "measurement I got" times 100 should give you the percentage to print at.
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It's been too hot to cut wood so I separated out the floors and futtocks which I had forgotten to do.
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Yes yes, yet another Bounty Launch. This will be the third being built at the moment. Allan's at 1:48 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33539-23-foot-launch-by-allanyed-bounty-late-18th-century/ Tim's at 1:24 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33565-hms-bounty-launch-by-oakheart-scale-124-%E2%80%93-18th-century-based-on-drawings-from-national-maritime-museum/ And this one at 1:16. As far as I can see these are the first scratch built Bounty Launches on this forum excluding those built for Bounty models. Allan has been asking lots of questions in preparation for his build which has driven much research and given us some facts to work from. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33217-bountys-ships-boat-details/?do=findComment&comment=945945 We have settled on building based on ZAZ7361 with some minor tweaks: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33217-bountys-ships-boat-details/?do=findComment&comment=947122 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33217-bountys-ships-boat-details/?do=findComment&comment=948363 We have each done our own drawings and I have now reached the stage where I can start building in earnest. I have made a few pieces but wanted the jig designed before starting this log. We shall see how it goes.
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You tempt me to do a 1:24 in Huon Pine. Depends on how the 1:16 goes.
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Good to hear. I took a break from the drawing. I now have frame H, a keel with deadwood and sternpost and a piece of laminated timber for the stem. But before I can scarph the stem to the keel I have to finish the frame drawings so I can design the building jig. So back to drawing soon.
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It will later, it's not finished.
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Ok, I thought it would be that one. It's one of the diagonals. Measurements in the table of offsets (which we don't have) give the length along the diagonal from the centreline to the station line this is sometimes longer than the (half) width of the hull. On my drawings I (try to) make the same reference line the same colour wherever it appears.
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Did you identify this line? I'm not sure which one you mean.
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These may be of more use (bigger image in the zip file): ZAZ7361-15.zip
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This is the dxf (re-imported into vectorworks). It's changed some line colours and but I think that's all (size difference is due to printing 'current view'). Re-imported: Original:
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An old version of Vectorworks. Sounds like I better stick to images or PDFs.
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Let me know if this helps. ZAZ7361.dxf
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Speaking for myself (although I think Allan is mostly in agreement) ZAZ7361 with the lower transom from the book drawing, no washboards and the slightly heaver scantlings of the book drawing (it doesn't really matter at our scales) is the best representation.
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HMS Renard 1872 by Draque - 1/24 - POF
iMustBeCrazy replied to Draque's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Michael, I produced a PDF with some scale rules sometime back, you may have to adjust your printer scale to get them right but they are the right price: -
HMS Renard 1872 by Draque - 1/24 - POF
iMustBeCrazy replied to Draque's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Ok, I get 3" (76.2mm) at the thickest for the garboard but I can easily see how one might get 2 1/2" (63.5mm) and 1 5/8" (41.125mm) so I would say the plans are to scale (at least horizontally) and your measurements are pretty good.
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HMS Renard 1872 by Draque - 1/24 - POF
iMustBeCrazy replied to Draque's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
The obvious I can do, your other questions probably not. I've mostly looked a Revenue Cutters and Boats. What distance do you get between the arrows? Not really sure why, gut feeling perhaps, but I would expect planking around or slightly greater than 2" (50mm). But I'm certainly no expert. -
HMS Renard 1872 by Draque - 1/24 - POF
iMustBeCrazy replied to Draque's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
G'day Michael, I'm only guessing here but: 1/ Inside otherwise 15 would come to the outside edge of the keel. 2/ The distance between the arrows but the garboard is thicker at the keel. 3/
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They are useful, make sure everything is square and stays that way. I'm currently redrawing my frames as effectively 3 drawings for each station (midships side of the futtocks, at the station line and the other side of the floors) then I can start working on the jig design. As your ribs/frames are centered on the station lines you need to make them to fit their widest dimension (midship edge) not the station line dimension so they can be faired..
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It's fine Tim. As a first (and scratch!) build treat it as a learning experience. You are trying to learn a lot of new things all at once. Don't be too pedantic about scale and don't rush. You could brace your frames by making them taller and gluing a brace across them (to be cut off after planking). Both the forward and aft sides of the frames must touch the rabbit. You will need to make some frames deeper to allow for fairing (eg. 3 5/64" instead of 2").
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You aren't alone It's why I try to clearly differentiate between facts and guesses/beliefs (when I remember to). A guess re the drawings is that it was up to the ship/captain to rig the boats (perhaps within limits) and the mast at the bow was common to the then current choices which seem to be: Main at the bow, mizzen at the transom. Possibly the most common rig from the number of painting and sketches. Schooner/Lugger, Fore at the bow, main about midships. As you have it above and Steel suggests for Longboats and Launches (although there are several 30ft plus single masted Longboats). Three masted. Fore, main and mizzen. Single mast for smaller (under 18ft) boats. And perhaps for those drawings where no mast is shown? And of course, exceptions to every rule. No wonder we get confused. However, we are pretty certain the Bounty launch had two masts at the time of the mutiny (although three is possible, but very doubtful), a main and a fore.
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Allan, I still have been unable to find anything that supports either of these suggestions. The closest to the single mast idea I can find comes from McKay but a cutter rig on a mast that far forward makes little sense. None of Bligh's writings or logs that I can find ever mention working on the rigging of any of the boats during the voyage (with the exception of the fitting two shrouds to each mast after the mutiny). There are mentions of "carpenters working on launch" or "carpenters working on boats", in one instance to repair damage incurred during a storm, but just as "I'm keeping the crew busy" type log notes. I'd love to know what your source is.
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