iMustBeCrazy
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Everything posted by iMustBeCrazy
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First coat of paint.
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Hopefully I've done all the woodwork needed for now. A little more prep and masking and get some colour on her tomorrow. That splash guard was a right pain, way too many angles all at once.
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English fleets and small vessels in the early 1700s
iMustBeCrazy replied to Dan DSilva's topic in Nautical/Naval History
No, sorry perhaps I did. However I do think that the Sailmaker painting is based on the Knijff painting and therefore the same vessel. I think here are just too many similarities. But hey, I could be wrong.
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More progress, remember to mask everything when spraying.
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English fleets and small vessels in the early 1700s
iMustBeCrazy replied to Dan DSilva's topic in Nautical/Naval History
And here the RMG show otherwise. The wiki entry for HMY Fubbs says James II had 9 yachts. The two paintings in your first post are showing the same vessel at the same event and I suspect it is the same as the closest one in the painting I linked to. I doubt either artist was at that event but both must have had access to the vessel or a painting of it Or perhaps one painter based his off the others painting?? -
Greetings fellow Bounty Launch builder, I'm on my second which is a scratch build, the first was a Model Shipways. There are a few traps with the Model Shipways kit so I suggest you read all the build logs, this link should help you find them. The most common are the word 'TRANS' etched on the transom and the length of the planks (only just enough if you do them perfectly), they should have been a little longer. In this thread we try to sort fact from fiction, you might find it interesting. It starts as a discussion about oars but morphs into a more general discussion on the Bountys boats. Truthfully, nobody knows. It is likely it was white or perhaps grey but again nobody knows so do what you like. If that's about station/frame 3 it doesn't matter, that rib is added after removing the boat from the false keel. Same for 1 and 2. The ribs sit in the notches in the keel, the moulds should sit at a height that supports them there EXCEPT 1 2 and 3 where the moulds include false ribs as the real ones are added later. The instructions should warn against gluing planks to moulds 1 2 and 3. I believe I've got that all correct but it was a while ago.
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The last pieces of decking being glued: As you can see I was going to stain and 'varnish' the decks as the was how she was in the photos I had, but I found a later colour slide showing her in a pale aqua which is how I remember her (I couldn't remember if the deck was still varnished). I see the boom has a splint (has been fished) but when the photo was taken there wasn't even a breath of wind, I wonder what the story was.
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Steven, I may be wrong but: (I might have to put that in my signature) To me the depictions in the mosaics look more like sweeps through ports in the stern than any form of styrbord or rudder. I don't know how that would fit historically.
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At the rate you're going this might be too late but: On an open boat sand everything on the inside before fitting, sanding later is a pain. Dang, you just posted, I knew it would be too late.
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- boston whitehall tender
- rowboat
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Nothing a coat of paint won't hide (after a little more filler).
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Well, I failed with the ply. It's just too stiff. So I sanded a piece of paulownia (which I used/am using on my Bounty boats and for everything except the bulkheads on Kitty) down to 0.65mm to match the ply and fitting it was a piece of cake. Paulownia is very like double density balsa. Once it's filled and painted no one will know.
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Well, as I expected the bow sections are a bit more of a challenge. Both the long edges change from overlapping the keel or side to a butt joint to the stem or side add to that getting the curve working and you can see it's going to be fun. The shape wasn't too hard, templated in card. And I think this will achieve the curves. It has been warmed with a heat gun but I do not know yet if it was warm enough. And yes, that's another stringer gone.
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A rubber band and a piece of scrap wood will create a reference you can measure from. You can also square it up from one of the transoms to align things lengthwise.
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- Norwegian Sailing Pram
- Model Shipways
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Make a 'V' block as shown, if the brass is too short put a bit of wood through it and clamp both ends.
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Moving along, most of the bottom on but I suspect the rest will be more difficult. Broke two more stringers but she is learning to fight back, she drew blood twice.
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A different class John but designed in Sydney.
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Chines and shelves connect to the stem and stringers connected to the chines. Sides fitted. Dang those stringers are fragile I've broken four or five so far, good thing I don't really need them.
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Enough for today, chines and shelves made and fitted, errors corrected. Next I have to work where and out how everything attaches to the stem.
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Glitch number 2 and 3, Frame E is an inch too tall, frame B is 3/8 too tall. Can still be fixed in-situ but I'm kicking myself.
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1st glitch, messed up frame D. Fortunately the fix will be hidden inside the hull, I just need to re-cut the notch for the chine and sand down the frame and stringers.
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I think/hope my drawings are complete enough to build a model hull, only time will tell. Progress so far:
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Something a little different. Hopefully this will be a quick build at least up to a painted hull, I only have until Easter to get that far. Some may be wondering why I'm not working on my Bounty launch. Kitty was built in 1949 by my father and three mates and was going to be my next build after the launch but the son of one of the builders will be visiting at Easter so the launch is on the back burner. I have been playing with drawings for a few months based on photocopies of photocopies of the 'plans' in a magazine, some incomplete drawings my father did in preparation for making a model, some photographs of the build and, fortunately, the materials list.
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Thanks Tim, they seem to be. At this stage it's just a rough coating of shellac to seal it.
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Unfortunately I stuffed up either my measurements or my gluing of the landing strakes and the sheers don't overlap the landing strakes properly. There should be a 1" (scale 1/16") overlap the full length but I finished up with zero overlap at E, F, G and at the transom. The stem and midships are fine. I Ummed and Ahhed for some time and finally decided to add some packers to make the sheer sit at the same height it would be if it overlapped and then when I fit the fender it will hide everything.
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