cog

I still salute your experise greg  I know not just me but a good few of us think you are a master craftsman,  and have established a benchmark on here pushing the boudaries of plastic modeling.
Good on you greg.
 
OC.

Work inboard to outboard. Wait till you see the convoluted mast. I was starting to get a bit stale with this build, and considering I still have the ship’s boats and aircraft to go I think I’ll be well and truely over my IJN phase after this one. 

There is always a certain amount of hands on - reaching across - holding a model to do work on them, and sometimes parts get broken or knocked off, but your work with extra fine details always looks as if you have mini robots doing the work for you, or you must have a surgeons hands.
Amazing.
 
OC.

She is looking superb greg easily your best to date  pure genius.
 
OC.

I haven’t posted for a while because there has been an enormous amount of small piecework to do. Putting a fence around the back veranda; I don’t know if the flight deck had railings, but I know the rear bit did as the video of the ship in 1945 shows it. I’ve added the 6 rocket launchers at the stern, the turntables and done up the 25mm’s. That is just back breaking work, 31 triple 25mm’s, each with individual barrels and magazines and 11 singles. Tomorrow I can start throwing them on. The baseboard was made up for me and is a beautiful bit of hardwood with Tung oil to season. 

Nils,
Herzlichen Glückwunsch zum Geburtstag
 
Cheers

Hmmm, it is always a surprise once you get at it again. Nice details my friend. Though slightly larger than Igor's builds, still stunning detail! Wish you could spend some more time on Shadow ...

Do you teach ...?

Looking really good, amazing how it all fits together.
 
OC.

Thanks for the insight Slog, and for the kind comment OC . Here are some pics of my hull skinning progress. I've just fitted the "dreaded" Skin #8 without any dramas . I'm fairly happy with the way they have come out - not perfect, but nothing I can't fix with a bit of filler and touch-up paint on some of the joins.
 
One thing I found out the hard way when building my first Card model, Cerberus, is NOT to put any glue on the extra bracing in the middle of a skin. Doing this can "pull" on the skin, causing "starving cow". I only glue the very edges of the skin, being careful not to touch it in the middle until it's thoroughly dry. I use a narrow piece of flat wood with the edges rounded off so it doesn't dig into the paper to push the skin down onto the glued bulkhead, instead of using my fingers which can tend to pull the skin slightly while the glue is still wet - the glue actually softens the card a bit, so care is needed here. BTW - I'm using Acid-free PVA Craft glue, fairly thick straight from my glue bottle.
 
Another thing with gluing large panels - I glue the skins in three steps, the first up to where the skin flattens out, then the flat section, and finally the other rounded section. I tape the skin down with pieces of Tamiya tape as I go, and leave each section to dry for a few minutes before moving on to the next. This way I can easily keep up with the glue before it starts to go off.
 
I've redone the extra bracing between the bulkheads. The longitudinal pieces are faired to fit hard under the skin, without needing any glue, to reduce the chances of accidentally crushing the skins.
 
It goes without saying that there is a LOT of dry-fitting involved, especially on this model where the skins have overlaps designed into them. I'm cutting the overlaps off and butting the skins together, it takes a lot longer but the result is a lot better IMO.
 
I really DON'T like the way this model has been designed - my next Card model will definitely be another Halinski.
 
Here are the pics :



 
 This is Skin #5, the first one that I hadn't earlier cut to the lines. I've managed to "catch up" with the centres of the bulkheads by leaving part of the overlap on, resulting in the black line which I'll have to paint :

 
Skin #8 :

 
  Danny

Ah. Remember, it took three or four tries until I got my first set of cant frames right! Why should you - or anyone else - learn faster? Seriously, it's all part of the learning curve. Persevere, my friend. You are getting there. As Robert Louis Stevenson wrote, "It is better to travel hopefully than to arrive."

I noticed there is a problem.
I was staring at it but couldn't see the forest (it) for the trees (frames?).
After studying TFFM Vol 1 and 3 this weekend it became obvious.
I hadn't been chamfering my chocks/joints in the cant frames to account for the angle and sanding.
Too much of the chock was exposed and would be sanded away when fairing the inside surfaces of the frames.
In volume 1 of TFFM David simplifies the joints (square end butt joint) in the cant frames.
In volume 3 of TFFM Greg simplifies the joint (half step simulating the chock but cut back to the proper chamfered depth) in the cant frames.
So what I've put back on I have yet again taken off.
I believe I'll get it this next (last?) time!
 
"Seems there is always time to do it over".

Mumin, thanks for the note! It is really valuable!  

I didn't start mine yet, just read the Russian forum

You cn switch between catapult mode and sailing mode Nice work Robin

It seems someone found out the hard way ...

Lovely work OC. Slow but steady, that's the best way !

It seems someone found out the hard way ...

"by most accounts not very well.  If you mean as a profession - no"
In either case: A pitty!
 
Pensilvania is no go if ever I come to the States ... what a pitty ... it'll be the old fashioned way ... books!

Sadly I don't have a higher resolution image of the oar plan, but....the lenght of the oars are 9 and 9,5 cubits. A cubit is 45,72cm.
What I read about the testing of oars for the Olympias reproduction trieres...9,5 cubits is about the maximum practical lenght one oarsman can handle (with the wooden counterweight). Also note...they changed the shape of the blades to the teardrop shape you have, because they perform better on a calm sea.
The staight blades are more suitable on a rougher sea, but need strong and highly trained oarsmen to perform well with. The Olympias trials were done with volunteers.
 
I think your oars look wonderful and I wouldn't change them! 

There are more "traps" in this build:
1) markings on B19 are not for beveling, they are guides for gluing L11. And together they form temporary guides for drilling.
2) Waterways should be glued "upside down" (the glue goes on the upper - marked side)
3) Pay close attention to the right and left parts, sometimes they are intermixed on the plates (for example bulwark D2L sits together with R planks and vice-versa).

Hi Carl
 
Many thanks. Yeah, I reckon some of Igor’s ships could easily fit inside Shadow. Amazing stuff Igor does; that’s for sure!
 
I wish I could spend more time working on Shadow, but getting the time to do it, is getting increasingly difficult. Oh well... such is life I guess. 
 
Have a great week!
 
Cheers. 
 
Patrick
 

Dear Patrick, I have not been able to check on your log for some time and now I am lost in detail! Just too many things happening!
It is a beautiful boat and a very nice journey
Vaddoc
 

looks really good OC     well done on making the stand  !

Nice to see you back at it OC; she is standing proud now.
 
cheers
 
Pat