cog

I would think by using a mold, so it can dry in the propper shape
 
 
 
P.s. Any native English speaker: I thought it's the sails of the mill, not the vaines ... please correcty me if I'm wrong

Jan, Yours is evidently not the all weather type ... looks pretty smar though!

It is written in the instructions you can use a brush with that type of "hairs" for the thatch ...

Patrick,
great find, it shows that a lot of power can be transfered to the kruipalen..
For the English speakers:
"kruien" in this context is rotate the head of the mill so the sails can be set in an active or inactive position
"kruipalen" are the poles which are used to rotate, mostly a chain is slung around them and through a mechanical system with a wheel the rotation is done

Penanten, fit to the outside wall against each corner of the octagon. When you look at the drawing of the mill (cover), you can see them as those dark blocks at every corner. It is permanent, as they are part of the foundation.
Nope those aren't. The Kruipalen are poles stuck into the ground with which the head of the mill is rotated (Unfotunately in Dutch but have a look here)

Interesting questions, Mark
 
- not all, and not only "famous" ships, the destroyer I build presently, and the ones before, are not really famous, although the type may be
- it does e.g 1:200 , 1:350, 1:72, 1:24 (the latter two mainly airplanes)
- he could, but he might miss some parts he used on his previous build. I used  some of previous buids to enhance my builds even with the detailup set for that ship as I found it lacking

Interesting questions, Mark
 
- not all, and not only "famous" ships, the destroyer I build presently, and the ones before, are not really famous, although the type may be
- it does e.g 1:200 , 1:350, 1:72, 1:24 (the latter two mainly airplanes)
- he could, but he might miss some parts he used on his previous build. I used  some of previous buids to enhance my builds even with the detailup set for that ship as I found it lacking

Siggi,
I agree, no shortcut and these ships were built to very exacting standards, albeit with certain artistic interpretations such as the admiralty framing which isn’t full size practice.
 
It seems that this discussion keeps stating that gunport practice was only one way.  In fact, gunport practice I believe was multiple different ways....or at least two or three.  
 
The framed Bellona pictures above clearly show no port lid rabbet, but a rabbet created by the ship’s plank sides, creating a groove for the port.  It also shows that the lid total port lid thickness is the thickness of the ships side planking which includes the lining.  So port planking and lining = ship side thickness in this particular case.  It is also very clear there is no rabbet “cut” into the frames as you suggested earlier.
 
A bit of a different era (1797). But here is a picture of Constitution during her 1875 refit with the outer planking removed to show the frames.  The forward gun ports can be seen, and no rabbet cut into the ship frames can be seen.  So in this case, the rabbet was created by the ships plank like the Bellona picture above.  
 
 

 
 
Also, the port gun lids in photo below show that the lining was full size.  Gun port Plank and lining = thickness of ship plank.  No cut rabbet into the frames.  Granted, the port lids were two two piece which was a later era.  It’s also possible that the gun port had an extra sill lining to create the port stop like Druxey mentioned before but it isn’t clear in the picture.  The point is that the port lid has no rabbet except where the two halves meet.
 

 
 
 

Today I continued painting the launches. I started with the small ones. I brushed on vallejo old wood. 

Before

after

all 3

then i started brushing the deck fittings on the rest. 
Before

after

just 7 more of these, then the orrs and 2 canopies and I believe ill be done with the launches. 

What can I say, Jan. It was a work in progress ...  No, it still IS a work in progress. 😥
 
But you're welcome, re: the suggestion. And don't worry about it taking time to perfect. In a couple of weeks it will become second nature to you. well, it took me a couple of months and since I'm not the fastest kid on the blocks by far....... 😉.

Interesting discussion and very informative.   I recall reading that during heavy weather, leather strips were used similar to a gasket to seal the lids to the hull.  Would this be true for this era or is it myth?

Hi Adrie,
 
thanks for the suggestion. Does require some practice and trial. my first folds where far off the folding line  (and did you start closing revenges hull without showing in your buildlog?)
 
Today I did the first guntower (of a total of four). The Ruyter was a bit undergunned: she had a total of 7 guns, of a 15 cm caliber.
Three towers with two, and one with only one gun. The standard practice of three guns per tower was discussed, but deemed to expensive.
 
The guntowers can be turned and the guns can be elevated. Why you should want to do, I don't know, but I succeeded in realizing the mechanism.
 
pics are self-explaining.
 








 
aThe guns look tiny, but to be honest: at this scale they even should be slightly thinner. Rolling card is not the easiest way to get the thickness right: only after the whole thing is glued, you can see the thickness....
 
Jan

Interesting questions, Mark
 
- not all, and not only "famous" ships, the destroyer I build presently, and the ones before, are not really famous, although the type may be
- it does e.g 1:200 , 1:350, 1:72, 1:24 (the latter two mainly airplanes)
- he could, but he might miss some parts he used on his previous build. I used  some of previous buids to enhance my builds even with the detailup set for that ship as I found it lacking

Since Siggi wants to get to the bottom of this, I have a question concerning the watertightness of the gunports when not using Druxey's supported method. Wouldn't it be so that the oak used in constructing the timbers would result in a far less watertight closure (due to the rigidity of the wood) than when using a softer wooden lining as advocated by Druxey?

Glad you're back and feeling better. Plunged right into the build I can say. Like the way the rivets turned out

I was wondering too why you didn't use paper, but you have clearified that. The bond between the wood and the plastic will be much stronger than the one when using paper. The only thing is, I would rather use a dark grey than black on a scale model

Steven,
although it is a wooden built you could use part of a sewing pin to pin or strengthen such pieces. if the wood is soft enough, you wouldn't even need to predrill

very nice details GL

Interesting questions, Mark
 
- not all, and not only "famous" ships, the destroyer I build presently, and the ones before, are not really famous, although the type may be
- it does e.g 1:200 , 1:350, 1:72, 1:24 (the latter two mainly airplanes)
- he could, but he might miss some parts he used on his previous build. I used  some of previous buids to enhance my builds even with the detailup set for that ship as I found it lacking

You like to keep us on our toes, don't you ...
 
Steven, you could 'ave spotted it by the hughe tower from Yamato.It doesn't fit the bill either

I was wondering too why you didn't use paper, but you have clearified that. The bond between the wood and the plastic will be much stronger than the one when using paper. The only thing is, I would rather use a dark grey than black on a scale model

I have been following this debate from the sidelines, and not commenting until now.
 
For all practical purposes, and thinking like a tradesman, it would seem to make the most sense to stop the planking a few inches short of the frame siding, along the sides of the ports, and to cut the plank opening around the sills.
 
Although ship carpenters of yore would have been fantastically adept with their tools, chopping additional mortises into the frames and sills would be remarkably labor intensive, with the disadvantage of weakening, to some small degree, the underlying frames.
 
Also, from a practical perspective, it would seem to create a better gasket, if the lid linings were stepped back around all four sides of the lid, so that they fit into the opening.
 
While it is good and usefull to look at surviving examples, like Victory, as Druxey points out, the history of repairs - even on an important ship - isn’t always reliable; sometimes modern carpenters do strange rot-prone things like filling the lower rabbet with short stock - for whatever reason, I can not tell you.
 
Perhaps a better surviving example, albeit from a much earlier time, is the Vasa.  She has not been altered, but re-assembled, and she exhibits stepped lid linings and rabbeted ports.
 
It just seems to me that a shipyard, regardless of the epoch, would work as efficiently as possible.  And there are sound mechanical advantages to fitting the port lids in this way.
 
Certain details on contemporary models, on the other hand, are often simplified for the sake of making models more quickly.  

Looks good, Eric. Glad to read you're feeling better. Joint recovery can be tedious.

You like to keep us on our toes, don't you ...
 
Steven, you could 'ave spotted it by the hughe tower from Yamato.It doesn't fit the bill either

Glad you're back and feeling better. Plunged right into the build I can say. Like the way the rivets turned out