coxswain

Post 68

A Horse for the Square-sail yard.

 
 I first considered the horse back in post 51, but now I need to fix the attachment point towards the top of the mast.

 
Steel lists a ‘horse down the mast’ associated with the Crossjack yard (which for our purposes is the Square-sail Yard.)

For the method of fixing I am following the narrative and drawings contained in Eighteenth Century Rigs and rigging by Marquardt.

Figure 88 in the book shows the set up on a cutter mast pre 1800.

The Horse has an eye splice at the upper end lashed to masthead.


0313
My interpretation is to use an eyebolt at the masthead to which the horse will be attached.

The Lower end is set up with deadeyes and lanyard to an eyebolt in the deck forward of the mast.


0311
The deadeye set up afore the mast, I used 3mm deadeyes, and 0.63mm ø Syren line to represent the 5” circ Horse and 7” deadeyes.


Model of Surly 1806

Altho’ a later period, a horse is still shown altho’ by this time it probably carried the Spread-sail yard, as the Square-sail yard had had mostly been dispensed with.

 
At this point I can now play around with the Square-sail yard.

 
The central yard tye block is required and an aft facing thimble thro’ which the horse will run.


0320(2)
Iron thimble attached to Square-sail yard.

 
With the tye block attached the yard can be raised on the horse.


0327
Raising the yard on the horse.

 

0326

0330
The Square-sail yard is hoisted over and above the Spread-sail yard on the horse.


 
B.E.

10/02/2020

 
 

Post 67

 
Thinking about securing the yards.

 
Everything I’ve read about cutters of this period suggests that the yards were not secured to the mast by use of parrels or truss pendents, which presents the modeller with a real problem as the yards will need to be secured if only temporarily to get the rigging in place.

The kit gets around the problem by the simple expediency of having a parrel or truss on every yard and gluing and pinning the yards to the mast.

 
I have been here before, albeit back in the 1980s with my first cutter build.

0307(2)

0304(3)
A later spec cutter but even so no trusses, parrels, or pins were used in the building of this model.


0305
I wish I could remember how I approached this job, but it long preceded such things as ship modelling forums.


0303(2)
The yards are however perfectly secured in position by a combination of the braces and Bowlines.

 

Hawke model mast detail
I cannot detect any sign of a truss or parrel on the Hawke model.


 
I am starting with rigging the Spread-sail yard, but before I can even consider raising the yard the tackle blocks need to be attached, starting with the yard Tye block.


0309
This is a tricky little beggar, a 4mm single block with a served stropping formed into a ring that fits around the centre of the yard.

It is by trial and error that the size of the stropping ring is determined using unserved thread to confirm the size.

Two other blocks need to be attached at this stage; the Topsail sheet fall blocks, hanging below the yard just outside the slings.

 

0312
 Raising the Spread-sail yard.


0314
I need to have this yard in place so that I can consider the practicalities of raising the Square-sail yard on a horse afore it.


 
B.E.

09/02/2020

More work on the deck, a bit of hull shaping and one bulwark attached! The runs of decking were sliced with an xacto blade then I used a small brush to add a bit of brown stain to hide the fresh cut of the wood. The photo shows the deck after a coat of varnish.

Tosti writes in his Naiad books that the planking outside of the Binding Strakes was done in Evergreen Fir, but only on the lower deck as there wasn‘t much wear there as it was where the crew slept and there were no heavy cannons to move around.

Today I spent the whole evening sanding the deck planks smooth. Although this isn‘t right. I think the strips should only need some light sanding prior to planking but the saw marks are quite noticeable.

tomorrow I can start glueing and caulking.
Thanks for stopping by,
Chris, in Germany

I think I finally might be heading the right way.
Third sample: first of all, dark grey paper caulking stands proud of the deck planking.
 

After I had trimmed down the caulking I had realised that the planking strips were of a different thickness. The wider strips which should represent the king plank and the binding strakes were thinner than the others. Just an oversight on my side. Mental note for the next time, or real planking: check the planking strip thicknesses before glueing!


The wood here is oiled. Looks much better than the airbrushed grain filler and is much easier to deal with. 
So, I‘m happy with the caulking and the oiled planking strips. Might be getting there soon after all.
Chris, in Germany

I think that's a keyword in all of my build logs! 😉

The keyword for this post is "mistakes".
Please don't forget this is a build log a not building instructions. 
 
The most important thing one should do is to cut keel slots of proper size, so the frames will stay in place by themselves. This will save you lot of pain and few years of your life. 
The last 5-6 frames have recessed timberheads. The frames must  be fixed so the measurements can be made and see how it looks. As is indicated in building book.
I tried to fix frames with rubber glue, but is too flexible. Then I challenged gods and I worked by measuring everything. It doesn't work well, there are differences between frames around 1mm, is the best I could produce. 
 
I built the stern using the milled piece of wood. Measured on plans, dimensions and curves. Tested and affixed on horn. 

BIG MISTAKE. After I fixed the last frame I realized that the hull curve doesn't match. The sides are correct, but under hull curve is more steep. So I cut the horn, unglued it from stern, cut a slot for it and then tested again. Better, but still not good.
It can be seen in a previous picture that there is steep differences between last frame and stern. I think that @gsdpic is right and lots of material must be removed. I will fix all frames, then fair (?) them and see how I can solve stern issues. 
 
Another HUGE problem is the wood, which is soft. As I said, the last frames have recessed timberhead. The shape is a bit complex and the wood breaks easily. Like 5 times a timberhead. 

So, what I did was to half cut the timberhead and fix the frame. And use a vise to keep the frame tight; I didn't break anything after that. Then, when all are in place, I will mark it and cut it in place.
All this pain could've been avoided if keel slots were cut right!

 
On a different topic, I struggled to measure and keep in place at right angle the frames. And keep the keel from moving. For this I reused a piece from plexiglass board and that gave me some ideas about a system. I designed it, I need someone to cut the pieces for me.
I'm very excited to see it done. Keep close, is pretty crazy. 

I didn’t have much time today for MO.
the next section I’ll focus on is this section.  Should be easy enough. 

So basically I just cut everything out. 

I figured it out but damn, is Pontos trying to make the instructions as hard as possible to understand?

oh and I assembled these two pieces. 

Thanks OC.
 
No need to do that Richard - from the size of the lower cap I may be able to just cut one in half & get by.  I am still a ways off from adding the decorations.  I don`t see anywhere else on the ship where these particular decorations would go,so they may just be extras.  I just happened to think - the Amati kit has parts for three different ships where as this Model Shipways kit only has parts for the Vanguard variant,so the extra decorations may be for the different variations of the Amati kit.  I think the etched brass sheets in my kit are from Amati,so that would explain the extra parts.  There is a sheet from Model Shipways in the kit that says they have updated the instruction book & clarified the text (along with a few other changes).
 
Mark

.......And here is a shot of the main wale with 1 coat of paint - a few more coats will follow. The upper edge was painted before glueing on to get a sharp edge.
 

 
Mark

Update - with the main wale in place I thought I would make the top & bottom caps of the side galleries.  I couldn`t quite make out the exact shape of them from the plans,so I just "winged" it & shaped them so they looked good.  They were given a coat of primer,but are not glued in place yet.  In the second picture there are  brass etched decorations that go on the lower cap,but I`m not sure which ones to use. Only 2 are needed,but 3 are provided with all 3 having the same part number on the plan sheet. All three are also different shapes & lengths.  Whichever ones I use they will need to be cut to length,so it`s not really a big deal.  The parts list actually showed a quantity of 4 for this part number (377),but I could only find these three.
 

 

 
Mark

Soon our new kits 
MK0304
Scale 1: 48
 
length - 498.5 mm,
width - 80 mm,
height - 350 mm
 one 24-pd. carronade

It does look pretty impressive. I still can't believe the design of the new kit with cannon ports built into the frames, so no worry about alignment. 
 
This is the Facebook group I help to run:
 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/amativictory/
 
Also, look at these two hulls. Both designed by the same guy (Chris), but over a decade apart. On the left is his 1:72 Victory from Caldercraft, and the right is the 1:64 Amati. The Caldercraft kit is just stunning, so I can't wait to see the Amati when it soon lands here. 
 

Denis, when you make your new insert for the saw, try to get the hole for blade as small as possible without interferring.  It helps when trying to cut thin wood and/or small pieces.   Also, if you have different (I'll call it width) blades due to tooth count, make different sized inserts.  

I'm doing that as I go along J........perhaps it will save time....dunno    I'm finding info in the strangest of places..... took the admiral to her doctor's appointment.  I picked up a magazine to read while I was waiting,  and what do I see....an article about the clotilda and the last slave ship.  it's in this month's National Geographic...I'm going to stop at the drug store near my house tomorrow and pick up a copy.  it has a pretty good picture of what she looked like........relatively flatish deck,  all the way to the bow,  a windlass instead of a capstan,  two gratings instead of the one supplied in the kit.  so this tells me that all of the bulkheads need to be brought up without much of a curvature......probably a slight camber side to side.  schooner rigging.........then again,  that's what the Clotilda was.
 
hi John.......yea.....but I'll be slowing down.  I gotta go back to work    glad your following along  
 
but hey........while I'm here,  I'll share what I did after I last posted.   so,  with the stern in a position where it won't move,  I added a couple strips to hold the frame vertical.

to hold up the bow was the next step......taking the piece of the plywood used to space the base strips,  a slot the width of the keel was cut in the middle of the piece.   it was then cemented into place at the bow,  making sure it would hold it perfectly straight.

two pieces of strip was added to the base of the holder to strengthen it.   now the frame won't move,  and I can proceed.  I pushed it up to my vise to hold it in place for the time being.

the line will follow from bow stem to stern stem....all should be flush.  to be safe,  a slight curvature fore to aft wouldn't be incorrect.  this frame also could be assembled upside down to insure the bulwark posts don't show this curvature......according to the picture,  the cap rails are relatively flat.  I found that I did need to slot the bottom of the #1 bulkhead,  to achieve being flush with the bow stem {deck platform surface}.

I was going to cut another one due to that chigger in the post,  but I can patch it before planking {not to mention I still need to fare the frame afterwards}.  you might see the mark I made in the center of the deck platform flat.........that is my center.  all bulkheads need to be marked for proper location.  it was cemented in place.


at this time,  it was off to the doctors and grocery shopping....so far,  I haven't gotten back to her.  the article I read is pretty good.....talks a lot about the slaves that were brought over on that last voyage,  and the town that was created,  when they were freed after the war.  there are two pictures...doesn't show the complete rigging though......bummer.  

thanks gents.......one more cut out  ....three more to go.   I'll have to see how the bulwarks are arranged as far as height goes......some of the bulkheads have no slots at the keel end.   I may also trace out and cut another keel,  in case there's a problem >evil grin<   sure J........the list doesn't have any quantity though.   I think this is the wood your talking about
 
I think this is pine......lovely grain.   I think I'll use it for the deck of the Progress....unstained and sealed,  I think it will look really nice.  see those parts to the right in the second picture.......feels like leather or textured plastic?
    they are for the cabin roof and the skylight.......probably won't use it either.  here is the parts list in the booklet:
  
just so you don't need to squint........
  
I was going to mention last night that I sent a PM {on the ETSY site} to Kal,  the person that was selling the kit.   I let him know what's going on........it was of no fault of his......and that I expected to see some anomaly with the kit.  I asked him the age of the kit.......earlier he mentioned that it had been in his family for a long time.   his mother used to work at a shop and she bought it for the father about 50 years ago.  it remained untouched all this time.  he didn't mention,  but I sense that one or both of his parents has passed on.  I let him know what I was doing....he's still gonna get a five star review from me.  I can't complain........old kits like this are a 50 / 50 kind of thing........good kit / bad kit.  I've had such good luck with these kits in the past.......sad not to try and resurrect this one.
 
well....as of a couple of moments ago,  all ten bulkheads are cut out.  I still need to clean them up.  I will trace out the keel and use it instead of the one supplied........might as well work with all fresh wood  

yepper........seems to be the rule with this kit.   whether or not they will need to be slotted at the keel.......only your build slip will know for sure    #1 does.......found that much out.   as for that planking......sounds like a bit more work,  although 3 to 4 mm should put the deck planking to scale.  sanding may take some of the color out of it for ya.......likely got that color with age.  if it's really is pine,  than likely it's the pitch.
 
I should wait,  but I have to let glue dry for the moment,  so I have time to kill.  I'm not really pleased with the new scroll saw.........there is a plastic plug that acts as a collar where the blade is.  darn thing isn't flush with the table......needs around 1/32 or so.  I'm gonna make one out of wood to replace it.   likely this is the reason behind the chipping issue.  another issue is that I don't have it on a stable table....just a board on top of milk crates
   I have a shelf {cabinet} that I made a while ago.......I use it now to store my junk box and assorted stuff,  out in the hallway.  it's big enough to lay on it's side.....I can still use it as a junk bin holder,  and has enough surface space that I can actually fasten the saw to it,  to hold it in place {future task}.  it works fine for a while,  but when the board goes off center with the milk crates,  it tend to vibrate more....that's when the scroll saw starts to walk.  but at any rate.......the cutting is done for the most part  

I even got the second keel cut......
  
I did some of the squaring up.....cleaning up the keel part.......now all we need is a build slip.   I knew I had the old one still around ......I set up a couple slips on it.......one might work .   I can't use the spare one I made,  from the odd parts I got when BB closed down on Wisconsin........the slot is too wide for the keel too  

...and I can't use the one I bought,  'cuz it's in use right now.......

.......slots are too wide on that one too............still can't find the old one.......I guess I'll have to make one for it.   taking my old board,  to build balsa airplanes on,  two lengths of 1/8 strip was laid down.   a piece of the plywood was used for the spacing.  at one end,  a plug was fitted in,  closing off the slot.

the plug will act as a stop........but I really didn't need to do it,  because to keep the keel vertically straight,  I added a wide stop and braced it with a wedge {the wedge could have filled the slot just as effectively}.
  
  
next time....think before I act......will me?!?!???

Thanks for your comments Beef and Teloo, very kind. I‘m not sure yet if I‘m heading the right direction. A few lessons learnt on this latest sample: first, the deck planks must be sanded smooth before planking and the caulking paper strips must stand proud of the deck planks before sanding everything flat otherwise things just get too uneven. So, the caulking is a lot less conspicuous than before which is good, but I had to give the sample a few light coats of grain filler with an airbrush but now I‘m getting a slight shine which I would rather avoid. Is a wax layer and honing a solution?
 

1867 is a long ways off from 1807 / 1808.   keep in mind that the southern states were still active in the keeping of slaves even during the war.  I'm sure there is some convoluted information out there....wouldn't be the internet we know and love without it    even on paper.......can't believe everything you read.  I know J posted pictures of the instructions...I hope you can read it
 
this is a small booklet tha came with the kit.   here is the complete building text......

that's it folks........not much to go on,  although it does give some of the part numbers.....especially the wood strips.   I should look to see if I can find a chart relating to dowel diameter...so far I only know of fractional diameters.  here is the two sided sheet with the side profiles,  layouts,  and assembly suggestions. 

I forgot the rigging diagram too.........it gives the appearance that there confusion between a brig and a schooner.  there are at least three different configurations that would suit this vessel....and as Lou pointed out,  a Ketch.  the planking diagram suggests........what your seeing here is double planking above the waterline.   if I were to do that,  I'd use thin strip.....narrower than what is supplied in the kit.   there's a small bundle of 5 mm,  a larger bundle of 10 mm,  and an equal bundle of thin strip that is 8 mm { looks like pine but can't be sure}.   I have other stuff on hand

the lines at the bottom are the lengths for the masts and yards.  there is a diagram for a capstan......but I think a windlass would be more appropriate.......what is that thing off to the bottom right?  not real keen on the tops either,  since they are die cut on the plywood sheet,  along with the channels.  as said.........I'll sweat over the hull and then scratch build the rest. 
 
the bulkhead replacements continues........I now have 6 out of the 10 bulkheads cut.  a couple of them,  I had to peel off the affected layer and re-laminate it with 1/16......1/32 would have been a better choice,  but I'm using what I have on hand.  as can be seen on the front side of the big sheet,  the frame is going to be flimsy.   it will need to be a bit more stable for the faring process.   so the bulkheads were spot glued to the new plywood,  which I had cut into wide strips.  once it has set long enough,  I will cut them out.......the glue if not totally dried,  should release rather easily.

number 7 and nine had to be re-laminated to do the cutting process properly.......here's #9

it will be clamped so it will be flat and level.  then I'll trim it and it will be ready for the cloning 

oh......and have fun I'm beginning to Chris.  the kit is old.......I get that.........but the plywood is showing it's age.  I cut out the keel yesterday afternoon and the face down layer of whatever this wood is took a beating!  in the beginning,  I thought that it is the new scroll saw I got for Christmas........perhaps it needs to be set up in some way.  going through the manual,  and then looking at the saw,  I noted that I'm using a rough cut blade,  likely ten teeth per inch.   my old scroll saw used the 3 inch blades.......this one uses the 5 inch blades......a lot more common,  and I can get 'em anywhere.  I have a pack from Harbor freight.....6 pack.....6 different tooth count.  I also noticed that the bottom blade holder was offset,  so I corrected it and now using a finer thinner blade.  this didn't make a difference.........chunks of the bottom layer was being torn off.
 
splintering and missing chunks along the rises of the keel

a huge chunk was taken out of the bow just above the turn........I found it and glued it back on.   the other parts I've done so far though,  I haven't been so lucky.   my original thought was to allow it to happen........I have some mahogany strips.......I'll simply patch them up.  here's a piece of scrap cast off.........

what it's doing to the parts...........OH my!
 
I said the heck with it,  and started to remove the damaged layer.  as you can see.........it's very easy to do.

at this point,  I was going to stay the coarse,  peel it off,  and cement them to some 1/16 basswood,  later to be cut out with my box cutter.  but I have another idea.   I'll glue them to some 1/8 plywood I have on hand and then cut them out,  separating them later.  three dots of glue......let 'em set.........and then see how it goes.


I'll clean them up after I get the rest cut.........so far,  I've only lost one bulkhead....but after I cut out the replacement    as I told J..........while it would have been good to wait till I have all this done,  I would start the log now,  so that anyone with an older kit in their closet,  would benefit from this.   plastic kits have an advantage concerning this......other than brittle plastic,  that's about it.   wood on the other hand is susceptible to humidity and  temperature.   hard to say how this kit was stored.   gotta take Gibbs out now.......but I will continue cutting the bulkheads out after.   another thing I've been thinking of is the thought that this frame is going to be really flimsy.......have to try and stabilize it in some way for the faring process.  more on it later  

the kit is old........it is not laser cut,  but on the 3/16 sheets,  there are die cut impressions of the parts.  they need to be cut out.   I have seen other kits of this model......in later kits,  they used a light colored plywood.  in the kit I bought however,  the plywood is three layers......a light colored wood sandwiched between two layers of what looks like mahogany.   I ran into this with the Nordkap kits.......the first one supplied lighter colored woods,  while the kit I'm using to build the Progress,  was mostly mahogany {planking and parts sheets}.  in both instances,  the bulkheads were already cut out,  which leads me to believe that Billings precut them.  there is a thinner sheet that has the deck platform,  trailing boards and various parts not related to the hull aspects.  there are five different sizes of thread {rope},  a good number of different size dowels,  smaller wood parts,  and planking bound with tape {which I can't stand}....those ugly marks. 
     
it comes with sail cloth,  but no diagrams to work with....one wooden boat and a couple of smaller blocks imprinted with other parts.   like someone let their kid loose with a price marker,  the numbers of the parts are scattered everywhere....some parts will need to be renumbered so I don't lose track.  the hardware is so so.....the anchors look good,  but will need rework due to age.........the blocks are metal and out of scale .......the dead eyes,  I haven't checked to see if they are plastic or wood {they can be replaced if needed}.  the brads are rusty......two sizes,  short ones and a bunch I can use as regular pins.  the eye bolts are out of scale,  as well as being the screw in type.   scrying the crystal ball........I see a lot of scratch building in my future.


you can barely see the die cut marks,  but they are there...not sure how deep they are.  to better see them,  I traced all the parts impressions with a mechanical pencil.

some of these parts......forget it.......the tops would be too thick and the boom and gaff yokes would be a joke.  as I mentioned,  scratch building will be the rule here.  the last included is the thinner sheet with the deck platform and such.  they were practically falling out of the sheet,  so I took 'em out.

the flying fickle finger of fate has struck again......why it chose us,  I have no idea.   there is a short story that starts this log off...and here is the skinny.   I was browsing around the net looking at off the wall hobby shops...just a search, point and shoot kind of thing.   I'm always looking for that model that I've not seen in years.  I was browsing through an Antique store in central Washington state.    running down a list of kits this Antique store had,  I happened on the name Agilis.  it made me sit back and think........who had this model in their signature?  after batting it around for a time,  it came to me who it was .......JCT {hope I spelt your tag right J......I'm working without a net}.  $100.00.........not sure about the shipping,  I mentioned in a PM I sent him,  along with a picture of the kit.  

I hadn't seen J or any of his projects for some time.......I wonder what he was up to.   to sum up his activities...........he's been fishing with his guitar,  while watching the tube    it was nice to rattle his cage { I take full blame J}.  his reply came....he already has a kit.......he was waiting for someone to start a build log on the model,  so he could use it for when he decided to start his.  he said the instructions were so vague,  they'd give Billing's a run for their money!
    naturally,  this got my gears turning........the finger stopped,  pointing at me.  I suggested getting the kit and possibly starting a log.........this began the conversation.  doing a joint group build was suggested,  but shot down in fear of confusion.  as our conversation continued,  I set to work on ordering the kit.   not seeing any way to order it,  I placed a call to the shop......but.........while that was in progress I was still browsing around.  going through a number of black holes,  I ended up at the ETSY site,  and a gentleman who lives in Florida,  was selling it for $49.00 with free shipping.  with ten minutes,  I had the kit ordered and a reply from the seller!  this also started another conversation,  since I'm so chatty......he'd have in the mail the next day.  true to his word........I got notification that it had been shipped.......that was Thursday.  I received it on Monday.   meanwhile.........a call came from the Antique shop and I let her down gently,  I assure you    meanwhile,  the conversations with the seller wound down.....he'd like to see pictures of the finished ship....I directed him here....or he can give me his email addy.  the conversation continues to this moment with J.......the plot is beginning to thicken.   my searches isn't bringing up any info on this ship........and neither is his.  likely,  this is a fictitious ship.  Steingraeber describes this as a clipper....to me it doesn't....it looks more like a privateer or a brig.  the last ship that was involved and subsequently "arrested" was called the Clotilda....this was in 1867.......over fifty years after slavery was deemed illegal.  later I read that the Clotilda was run aground near Mobile Alabama and set on fire to destroy the evidence.   there are a number of ships that this kit could have resembled,  but we decided to keep the name Agilis.  oh.......the reason behind my mentioning the Clotilda,  is that she was a schooner.   J suggested that this might be a Baltimore Clipper.....looking it up,  I am inclined to agree with him...it confirms both our suspicions.
Baltimore Clipper - Wikipedia
 
the one thing that might set it apart......and why I would mention a brig,  is the number of yards the model has......still feel it's odd,  likely can be rigged as a cutter, or even a schooner.   J is right though.....the instructions are not for the faint of heart
 
foot note:   I'll be building this model along with J.  we will be doing it as sort of a group build,  but without combining the log and confusing anyone.  I'm very pleased to be working along side him........I'm sure that there something we can share  
 
 

I think your expectations would not be met, at least if you're expecting a degree of historical accuracy in the kit. Don Dressel, an accomplished modeler and author, spent many years researching the SoS while attempting a build of the Mantua kit. The effort took 10 years, and the end result is that he used only the hull formers from the kit and replaced everything else -- literally everything else. He found many errors in the kit's rig, armament, and particularly its hull carvings (the stern carvings in the kit, as one example, are completely wrong). While there is no doubt that an eye-catching model of SoS could be built straight from the box, but I think that there are equally ornate subjects that are probably better values for the money, e.g. Euromodel's Royal William. Also check out some of the offerings from the Dutch comapany, Kolderstok.
 
Cheers!

Hello,
 
In front of the multitude of small problems which prevent me from working serenely, I transferred all my publications to ANCRE which will henceforth assure the diffusion.
These are the following monographs: Le Commerce de Marseille, La Fleur de Lis, L'Amarante, La Machine à curer les ports, Le Rochefort and finally L'Égyptienne.
ANCRE will therefore take care of the distribution of the books and, good news, will take care of translations for those that dont exist.
Time to put everything in place and the monographs will soon appear on the ANCRE website.
Stopping publication does not mean stopping monographs. I hope that new subjects will see the light of day.
 
Best regards,
Gérard Delacroix

Finally I finished the backstays. Here are some new pictures.