woodartist

i read your build log religiously and never start the next section until I have read your log. I do not have a computer in my shop so I print pictures from your log almost daily. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to do the log!!

Working on the waterways, finished inside bevel for port side, waiting for more wood to arrive before I can do starboard side or planksheers. I still need to bevel backside of waterway before I can install. Soaked wood for 2 hours then set in the jig of push pins in cork board.

looks great, nice job

Here are the photos i referenced in post but failed to include, my bad,

Work proceeded on the stern transom structure. In the process i needed to saw some non standard angled pieces. I was having issues holding them in place and sawing at the same time, the metal mitre box did not have slots for the angle needed. Then I discovered that if you turned the mitre box upside down and put it in the vice you could freehand a saw cut and hold the wood against the back wall of the upside mitre box. As many others have documented in their build logs the two outside stern supports were difficult to align. i placed a 5/16" wedge between the backside edge and the adjacent support and that seemed to work to finish the alignment. There was a lot of discussion about the bevel on the front edge of all 6 supports and the bottom of the two outside supports. There is definitely a bevel but be careful it is very easy to over do it. i did over do it on the first one and was more gentle on the rest.

well Der Alte Rentner was totally correct! I was not successful in cutting the notches in place. I ended up removing the bow filler and had to make new ones. Thankfully, I had used weldbond to glue the bow filler in so I was able to use alcohol and get them to release.Secondly, the spar deck framing pieces broke while trying to install them. I discovered that my notches were not accurate enough and I had to find a better way to cut the notches. I had a set of micro chisels from Veritas and had seldom used them but the 1/8" Veritas chisel was perfect for the job and a lot more accurate than the xacto blades. I cut the new notches in the bow filler with the chisel as well. I tried multiple ways to get all the pieces assembled and was having no success and getting very frustrated. I went back to member build logs to see if any of them had advice. Sure enough once gain JSGerson had the same problem and decided to first install the spar deck framing piece and the insert the other 5 pattern timbers. He said he had to "fudge" to get them in place. I appreciated his honesty because that was the only way I got them installed as well. Upon completion I checked the measurements with the plans and Hunt's practicum and they were correct. I have also installed the strengthening timbers. If you notice a difference in colors for the wood I used some cherry for timber #4. I have not yet sanded the bow structure, waiting for it to dry. Next onto the transom.

The planking us stellar/awesome!!

Thanks, I checked mine and I have the same issue. I will correct it now.

Did you correct bulkhead A and C before you glued in the bulkhead?

I like your solution better than Bob Hunts, the fewer seams the better, less chance of error. The thickness of the stems varies a lot, I have not figured out a way to make them uniform yet without using shims. The other part of that problem is the only way to know the correct distances between the stems is to transfer a measurement from the plans.

I think it is a good idea not to make the notches. Once the other framework is in place it will certainly be strong enough. I put the filler in with Weldbond so i can undo the pieces without too much trouble. I think I will try that first.

Now I have started work on the bow framework. After I cut out the pattern and found the 3/32" X 2" X 24" piece of wood in the kit, I cut out 2 pieces from the wood strip with a jewler's saw. You can see how close I could saw the piece to the lines, Then I sanded it down to the lines and cut out the notches with a Xacto blade. I used a thin blade and after marking the perimeter to be cut I cut tiny slits, the cut sideways and removed chips, then recut the perimeter and repeated the process.

The bow fillers are in and the notches marked for removal. I had to go back to them several times in order to get them reduced enough. I wish I had cut out the pattern for the bow notches earlier because it is a very good guide to ensure you are on the right course. I followed the suggestion by Der Alte Rentner and used a piece of planking to see if it would smoothly fit.

Thanks for the advice Der Alte Renter, I followed your advice and double taped the transom and you were correct I had to reshape the stern blocks twice. I hope it is close. I used the template from Bob Hunt's practicum and I Iooked at your build log. Frankly, your build log was more useful.

Progress continued over last four days. All the bulkheads have been inserted and glued in, the edges were faired according to the plans, and 3/32x3/32" spacers were inserted. I copied each bulkhead plan, cut it out and transferred the center lines, marked the areas to be faired and trimmed them before inserting the bulkhead. I cut out the transom filler block. Then I placed a 1/8" dowel under the back edge of the transom filler block to grt an angle on the hole. The dowel was too small to get the tight angle so i replaced it with a 5/16" dowel and re-drilled in the rudder hole. I used a power drill and started with a 1/16" bit and then 3/16" bit and then 4/16" bit. I finished it to size with a round wood rasp. I then shaped it with my #1 chisel which is 1/2" wide. Then sanded the corners according to plans. I dry fit it and lined up the center line on the transom filler piece with the center line on the keel and the center line on bulkhead R. I cut out the two filler pieces that fit below the transom filler piece with the bandsaw and then sanded them to the cut line. There were some burn marks from the bandsaw which I sanded out. I clamped the lower filler blocks in place with a small brass bar clamp and marked the edge of the bulkhead on each. I will use 5 minute epoxy on the transom tomorrow and then finish the 2 lower filler blocks.

thanks Der Alte Renter so much for responding to my request for help. I will follow your guidance and level the deck area and deal with the fairing issues when time arises. I have inserted 3/32x3/32 spacers between all the ribs as the plans recommend except at each end where the blocks will be inserted. Inserting the blocks is my next item on the to do list.

HELP HELP HELP Now I have a problem. I finished putting in all ribs and then learned that on rib section O I did not get the rib aligned with the reference line. It is now 1/16" too high on top and 1/16" too low on bottom. It is solidly glued in. How do i correct it? Do I shim the the lower section and shorten at top? Do I cut out the rib out entirely and cut out a new one from a piece of plywood that is the same thickness? I have a band saw and could try that.

I like your solution too.

So I tried to use the Stanley dowel jig. Two problems became apparent, one, the jig was designed for a minimum wood thickness of 1/2", the second was that the bolt that held the metal sleeve was two short to accommodate a sleeve less than 1/4". I solved the thickness problem by using a wood scrap as a shim. I got a longer bolt but had to use a socket and socket extension to screw it in. I cut a brass tube with an internal diameter of 1/8", which would be my dowel size, and cut the 1/8" brass tube into 4 one inch sections. when you cut brass tubes with a tube cutter it reduces the internal dimension. So after i cut them I reamed out one end with drill bit so I could use 1" brass tubes on my mounting board that would be inserted into the dowels. So you kill two birds with one stone, you get the reinforcement from the brass dowel and you have a secure way to mount the boat. I put in four brass tubes, three at the joints on the keel, and the fourth one about two inches in from the end of keel piece 5. Now I am ready to start aligning the ribs next. The jig enables you absolutely get a straight hole centered on the keel. and you can set the depth as well. On the first photo you can see the red tube cutter and the shim. On the second Photo you can see the brass tube centered on the keel.

i really like the painting on the freize. I never thought about painting it before installing it but that is a great idea and I will try and remember that

Well the two whalers are as complete as possible until I get some small dowel for the oar locks. So I will move on to the main boat. I finished glue up of the three core pieces and cut in the rabbit. I was fitting the 5 keel pieces on the pattern when I noticed that my rabbit was not deep enough in some areas so I marked those areas on both sides and sanded them until the depth was correct. It was easy to see that they were not deep enough when I laid out the 5 keel pieces next to it. I weighted them down with my sharpening stones. I was thinking about putting dowels in the connection between the keel and the center beam pieces. I saw where others had also installed mounting sleeves in the keel. So i thought about using multiple mounting sleeves as dowels. I do not have a drill press but I have a 30 year old Stanley dowel jig. I was thinking of using the 1/16" bass tube as the sleeve and the solid brass rod that fits inside. I will insert the solid brass rods in the base. i was thinking about using 5 of them. Anyone see any problem issues that could arise from that course of action?

Wood carvers, call them stump cutters, and they are listed as such in all the bit/burr catalogues from dealers.

Progress update on the two whalers. I installed ribs and flooring in the same manner as on the gig whaler and the pinnace, although now that I have done it twice it went much smoother and faster. I ran out of the cherry strips that were 3/64" thick that I had used on the pinnace for the cap. However I had a 4" wide sheet of 3/64 cherry. I do not have a table saw to cut strips s I decided to cut the cap out of the sheet. I used the small rotary bit for my power carver to make the rough cut. I then sanded and used round diamond cutter to get the inside and outside edges to size. I glued on the entire cap and and then used a little wood filler where needed so there were no gaps. I cut the the stern and bow knees out of the same sheet of cherry and installed them. The thwarts and gang board are cut to size and I will get them installed tomorrow and get the remainder of the keels inserted. Then I will try and build the oar locks if i ca find a small enough dowel. The dowels supplied with the kit are way to large. I penciled in a line on the cherry at the stern and bow so it appears that two separate pieces of wood were used.

I have finished the pinnace. When it was completed I went back to the gig whaler to fix some problems that I discovered after the last post. when I looked at the pictures, I saw that the keel was not level for its entire length, it was too long on the stern end. So I corrected that and I was not satisfied with the paint on the hull. I took all the hull paint off, re-sanded the hull and repainted with new paint. I used some old paint and the white had yellowed after a few days. I used the same techniques on the pinnace as the gig whaler so I did not document all the same steps. There were some new challenges on the pinnace. The first was how to make the oar locks. JSGerson used a Byrnes table saw to make his. I do not have one so I put a circular cutting bit on my rotary carver and made the small channel in a 1/8 x1/16 cherry wood strip. I put my rotary cutter on its stand and made the channel, then sawed the oar lock off, and then made the next channel. Having a long wood strip to hold onto helped the process. The second challenge was to make the very small corner braces. For this i put a diamond flame bit on my rotary carver and cut a half circle in a piece 1/16" cherry wood and then cut it off with the same cutter bit I used on the oar lock. I have not made the rudders for either boat yet, I will wait and see how the boats fit on the deck before making that decision. I ran out of styrene for the ribs on the remaining 2 whalers. I only ordered 1 package and it had 10 12" strips, I should have ordered 2. I also have not installed the footrests in either boat. Have not figured out how to make them yet. I also have not installed cleats as that metal work is outside my comfort zone.