Shickluna searcher
-
Posts
15 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
How do you manage to avoid any glue drips or squeeze-out on the inside when you can't access to wipe it off as you can on the outside? Even with very careful application it's hard to get drop free. I want to build one and have the wood natural inside and out so hope to avoid CA and over-gluing.
-
GrandpaPhil reacted to a post in a topic:
Iron plating on Erebus and Terror
-
mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Iron plating on Erebus and Terror
-
Another interesting point is that acc to Betts, from sources he detail in his book, the iron plates are believed to have been "galvanised", but that nonetheless they rusted quickly.
-
wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
Iron plating on Erebus and Terror
-
mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Iron plating on Erebus and Terror
-
mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Iron plating on Erebus and Terror
-
Interestingly, I was watching an old "Time Team" rerun recently. They were excavating a suspected Norse ship burial site. The way in which they determined a ship had been there was by carefully recording the exact location of the many rivets they found and it outlined the shape of a ship. I can't recall for sure the material used in the rivets.
-
I saw that reference in Betts's book to "bolted" plates. He also talks of simulating "rivets" on the model hull plating. But he also modeled the plates as overlapping however in his drawing on pg 141 he shows them butted together. I am going to conclude that that they were lag bolted to the hull, with washers. That technology existed then. Wood screw threads do not require the precision machine screw threads or threads to be used on matching bolts and nuts and don't require hull penetrations by the hundreds. I will butt them together, not overlap them. These plates ran from just below deck level to the keel and from the stem to back to the point where the bow curve in the hull sides begins. So it is an extensive area. Again, the hull thickness and bracing on these ships were at least double thickness in that area. Thanks for the discussion all. By the way, on the actual Terror wreck, the iron bow plates appear to still be in position. So, whatever they used, it lasted.
-
Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
Iron plating on Erebus and Terror
-
mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Iron plating on Erebus and Terror
-
I am building the OcCre Terror. Soon I will be adding the iron plates that protected the bow from heavy ice. The kit includes since pieces for this. Reference books and the kit say the plates were riveted on. How is this possible? To rivet you have to be able to access both sides, with the rivet being passed through red hot from the inside in this case. And a bolster has to be held at rhe preformed end while the cylindrical end is flattened. Does anyone have any insight on this?
-
I thought about the pedestals. I have a pair left over from Lady Nelson. But I will have to look up how to do those properly without risk of loose parts inside.
-
I thought about the pedestals. I have a pair left over from Lady Nelson. I will have to look up how to do those properly. Thanks for your thoughts on this. But do you think installing the keel before planking would be a problem? And then taping it well before sanding planks. Need that to have wiring done and tested before closing her up.
-
But do you think installing the keel before planking would be a problem? And then taping it well before sanding planks. Need that to have wiring done and tested before closing her up.
-
This gave me an idea. I want to install lighting, maybe not as much as you have done, but with LED or LED with fibre optic delivering the light to different places. Rather than have a battery on board, I want to have metal contacts in the keel with spring contacts in the cradle. What you have modeled here would work but I would have to install the keel -- not stern post or stem-- before planking. I did this on Lady Nelson and just taped up the keel to prevent damage from sanding. Can you see any reason why that would be a problem? Another option would be to use brass pedestal stands to deliver power. I could solder wires inside to the internal nut, but again, it kind of demands the keel be there for proper fitting.
-
I am doing a first build with Lady Nelson also. I've done solid hull and masts and rigging on another ship, but my first time with planking. I am really struggling with the first layer after putting on 3 planks per side. I followed the Amati videos by Leon Griffiths as faithfully as I could but I seem to be painted into corner where th planks need increasingly more torture to get them to lie on the forward bulkheads. I need a drastic correction somehow before I continue and can't see a way to do it without doing a plank that is pointeded at both ends. The planks are clinkering at the bow. A no-no, but I will do what I have to to get it done. So the question is, your first layer seemed to need some "fixer" planks but the second layer is much more regular. What fundamentally changed in your second layer approach?
-
I built the Eastport Pinky, almost the identical kit, from Bluejacket over 30 years ago. Just today, for another project, I have been wracking my brain trying to remember how I attached those toe rails along the deck edge. I was living in Maine temporarily, working on a pulp mill project, and had no modeling tools with me except maybe an exact knife and sandpaper. No CA glue, no tiny drill bits to allow for pins through the wood, no Google, no internet then. I must have soaked the wood and prebent them, then taped them in place? Any ideas of alternate ways to do this? I just requested the information from the instruction booklet or drawing today via pdf from BLUEJACKET, but I see from your posts that they must not say in detail how to do this.
-
mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Centerboard Schooner C. Chase 1846 by Maury S - FINISHED - Scale 1:48
-
Back in back in August, I asked about centreboard details to see what we might do with our Great Lakes schooner. I’ve had the chance to do a lot of research since then, especially referring to shipwreck site detailed reports. By the late 1850’s they had pretty much standardized on centreboards through the keel, with a dedicated hand cranked winch to lift it. A chain ran from the upper aft corner of the CB through slots in the top of the centreboard case and deck to the winch, just forward of the mainmast. I am not sure what angle they rotated down through, I settled on about 35 degrees in my layout, or enough that the upper aft corner is just appearing through the bottom of the keel. What angle does the CB rotate through in your model? Beautiful work by the way!
-
Shickluna searcher joined the community
-
We are looking at building a 1:100 model of a 1870s canaller 3 masted schooner as used in the 2nd Welland Canal. It will have a center board, on the keel centerline. I have been unable to see how these were raised and lowered. Wouldnt there need to be a system to force it down into the water below the ship and obviously one ro raise it up snugly into the centreboard case? A hand operated winch on deck might have performed this? How was it done on this 2 masted schooner? Curious also if anyone has any details of how the bow sprits were rigged so that they could be raised before entering a lock, thus allowing the ship to be built at. max lock length.
Our Emblem ®
