capnharv2

Thanks, again for the comments and questions.
 
Maury, yours is easier so I will answer that first.  The answer is: I have no idea.  A  ome will have to be found for this at some point - a problem for later.
 
Greg, I believe an entire book could be written about what to do with rigging when there are no sails to attach lines to.  Writing such a book would require much more knowledge than I possess.  The question arises on virtually every running rigging line on a model without sails.  Exhaustive examination of as many old photos as I could find, has yielded little in the way of common practice - or attention to any order.  I believe much depended on preferences and am not convinced that modern practice is representative of past practice.   Also, we need to consider that a big clipper like YA carried a crew of only about 50 (compared to ~800 on a 1st rate or ~300 on a frigate - both with half the sails) - not a lot of manpower to devote to appearance in port.    It seems that very much of the modeling is left to our own devices.
 
The specific lines you reference, lower sheets, tacks, clew garnets, and lazy tacks, in my opinion, are the most easily resolved.  Since these lines are shackled together to the clew irons on the lower sails, keeping them attached when the sail is unshackled is not too much of a stretch to the imagination.  The no-sails configuration to model is another question.  I have seen pictures where they are hauled up to the yard by the clew garnets and the sheets left hanging to the deck.  Hauling down on the tacks/sheets is also logical, since they may be easily accessed on deck when bending the sail.  Pictures of ships in port are usually not portraits of neatness and order that we would like to see on a model.  My solution for these is to hold the shackle some distance above the deck and secure all the lines neatly.  This is also a convenient way to add downward tension on the model yard.
 
I handle upper yard clews and sheets in the same manner and for the same purpose.
 
In general, I have tried to adopt configurations that leave unattached ends in positions convenient to their eventual use, for example staysail and jib downhauls and halyards tied off together at the base of their stays, bunt and leech-lines stopped at their yard blocks (although these have to be overhauled to the deck to bend lower sails)  reef tackle blocks tied off to jackstays, jib and staysail sheets omitted or coiled on deck, bowline bridles tied off to jackstays.  I have omitted studdingsail rigging completely except for blocks that I believe would have been permanently attached.
 
I am sure there are many other variations adopted on models - the most frequent seems to be the omission of many lines.
 
Ed
 
 

It took me twice as long to make sure the lines didn't foul one another as I reran them down the mast to the belay pins.
Everything has to follow a set sequence or I will risk twisting and crossing future lines.
Shrouds are next...but I can choose to finish the main mast backstays first, being cautious not to over stress the mast without counter acting with the top main stays.  Its a puzzle from here on out.
Here are a few other images.
 
Rob

After a long few days, I have only the 9# guns left to drill. Just 18 to go!
Just for fun, I put the 32# into their carriages and into the starboard ports. They are a little low because the deck is not yet in, but it gives a good sense of what the gundeck must have been like. And how awful it would have been to see that ship approaching you with guns run out and a hostile intent!
 
Mark
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

For those who might be interested
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 321 – Running Rigging Continued
 
Still working on the last 1%.  Since the last post in late March, the remaining yards on the mizzen have been installed with their rigging.  All yard braces had been left off up to that time because they are obstructive to working near the centerline and to reaching into the model to belay lines at the deck.  With the completion of the mizzen yards, work on the braces is now well advanced and other finishing-up work has begun.
 
The first two pictures show the model in its current state.
 


 
Most of the upper braces have been installed.  Because there is still a lot of work to be done at deck level, the braces below the topgallant yards are either left hanging or not started.
 
The next picture shows the array of upper yard braces between the main and mizzen mast.
 
 
This area is quite congested because the mizzen braces run forward.  Fortunately there was no fouling of these lines.  I say fortunately, because there is little flexibility in running these lines.  The connections at the ends of the yard are, of course, fixed.  Lead blocks that direct them downward are also pretty well fixed.  Main mast braces need to be clear of mizzen sails at those points, as do their falls to the deck.  Also, brace lead blocks need to be roughly positioned at heights midway between the upper and lower positions of their yards, otherwise braces would have to be let go to raise or lower the yards, leaving them free to move about.  The next picture shows another view of the upper braces.
 
 
Completion of work forward has progressed sufficiently to allow the sheets and tacks on the lower fore yard to be permanently belayed, as may be seen in the next photo.
 
 
The three lines are shackled together with the clew garnets in the absence of sails.  The tacks run forward to cleats on the catheads, the sheets run aft outside the shrouds, through the hull to belay on cleats on deck.  The lazy tacks are belayed on the first pin of the main pin rails at the side.  These lines were used to control the clew of the sail while shifting the load from sheets to tacks or vice versa, especially if disconnecting one or the other.
 
This picture and the last two also show that the masking tape used to keep debris out of the hull has been removed, contributing greatly to the overall appearance.  This came up rather easily, requiring adhesive clean-up in just a few spots.
 
The next picture shows the focal point of most of the current work - installing rope coils over the belayed lines.  This is fairly tedious work – making the coils, allowing the glue on them to set, then placing them over the pins and adjusting them to hang with some degree of realism.  As may be seen, the pin rails are tightly packed.  So much for all that careful turning of pin shapes.
 
 
The last picture shows the really tight spacing on the poop pin rails.
 

 
As mentioned in early posts, these rails were one of a number of possible solutions for belaying the many mizzen lines.  Even with the closely packed pins on this rail and the one just forward of the poop break, several lines have to be cleated on the deck.
 
The next post will continue with work on the braces for the lower three yards on each mast, and the interesting problem of routing those on the main mast to acceptable points aft without fouling the crojack rigging.  Stay tuned.
 
Ed

Thanks for the likes, comments, and support.
 
It's slowly coming together.   Still have to repair some damage and work to convert this design to make it look "French".
 

A little bit more to show.  It might not look like much, but I've been busily fairing and sanding the inside of the lower hull preparatory to fitting the keelson and some stringers to stiffen the structure.  I now feel like I'm starting to get somewhere - but probably won't achieve much on Monday; being Easter Monday the museum will probably be crowded with visitors.
 
John
 

Kurt,
 
Your parts drawing of the 150 shows an angled slot in the 50-035 body below part# 50-042 back lever (the curved piece). My old 150 had no such slot, other than the longitudinal one. It made it a real pain to re-assemble.
 
My question is-was that angled slot put in at a later time (mine is a 1980's vintage), did something miss QC before shipment, or did I get a cheap rip off??
 
Floyd has my old airbrush now. I bought a cheap Iwata knock off, but it does the job for now.
 
Thanks!
 
Harvey
 

Harvey:
Yes it was added later so one dooesn't have to insert the "T" portion of the back lever and then turn it 90 degrees.  Something like that would never get past QC at Badger.
 
Floyd;
Ron's right - every airbrush gets water shot through it as a test before it's passed as OK. 
I'm not sure if they still do it but the Sotar 20-20 airbrush even had a certificate that was signed by the 3 testers.
Kurt
 

Kurt,
 
Your parts drawing of the 150 shows an angled slot in the 50-035 body below part# 50-042 back lever (the curved piece). My old 150 had no such slot, other than the longitudinal one. It made it a real pain to re-assemble.
 
My question is-was that angled slot put in at a later time (mine is a 1980's vintage), did something miss QC before shipment, or did I get a cheap rip off??
 
Floyd has my old airbrush now. I bought a cheap Iwata knock off, but it does the job for now.
 
Thanks!
 
Harvey
 

Floyd,
Are either one my old Badger 150? And are you using the compressor that I gave you?
 
I added an aftermarket water trap and pressure gauge (I think from Micro-mark) I played with pressures from 15-50psi (the compressor maxed out at 60psi). I never seemed to put out enough pressure/flow. Compared to the MAS G23 I have now (my Iwata knock-off) the compressor (that came with it) puts out a lot more air than the compressor that came with my 150.
 
Which brings up another question-have you tried attaching it to a high volume compressor (like a shop compressor) and dialed the pressure down to 15-20psi? My gut (the part that's not sick) tells me the problem lies not in the airbrush, but in the available pressure/volume.
 
And, as Kurt noted, the Badger 150 is probably too small (even with a large needle) to cover lots of area at one time.
 
Anyway, a few thoughts from the sickie.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

So, what will you do when you hear the phrases "you build model boats don't you? Call this guy. he has money" again? My instinct would be-run!
 
Thanks for sharing this Floyd. It's been fun and interesting to hear the progress and see your work up close.
 
Harvey

Harvey! I am sorry that you are sick. I was hoping to see you at the PSSM meeting on Saturday. The tug will be there in all its glory. And the answer to your question is Yes and No. Yes one of the Badger 150s is yours and no I am not using your compressor. Your compressor has been donated for charity.  
I understand the comments about the 150 not intended for such a large project. And I will remember that in the future. Both 150s came to me at a wonderful price - Free! And as mentioned I am very close to done with this project. Hopefully I will get enough funds out of this to buy a gravity fed solution.
 
On the Tug I have all of the yellow and white painted. I also have 1 coat of the bottom painted. All that remains is the 2nd coat and the black. And of course like many other parts of this project. I have never used an Air brush before. I have arranged to meet with someone who has today and walk thru all of this with them. I expect that by the end of today I will have at least 1 working air brush.

Floyd,
Are either one my old Badger 150? And are you using the compressor that I gave you?
 
I added an aftermarket water trap and pressure gauge (I think from Micro-mark) I played with pressures from 15-50psi (the compressor maxed out at 60psi). I never seemed to put out enough pressure/flow. Compared to the MAS G23 I have now (my Iwata knock-off) the compressor (that came with it) puts out a lot more air than the compressor that came with my 150.
 
Which brings up another question-have you tried attaching it to a high volume compressor (like a shop compressor) and dialed the pressure down to 15-20psi? My gut (the part that's not sick) tells me the problem lies not in the airbrush, but in the available pressure/volume.
 
And, as Kurt noted, the Badger 150 is probably too small (even with a large needle) to cover lots of area at one time.
 
Anyway, a few thoughts from the sickie.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

Floyd,
Are either one my old Badger 150? And are you using the compressor that I gave you?
 
I added an aftermarket water trap and pressure gauge (I think from Micro-mark) I played with pressures from 15-50psi (the compressor maxed out at 60psi). I never seemed to put out enough pressure/flow. Compared to the MAS G23 I have now (my Iwata knock-off) the compressor (that came with it) puts out a lot more air than the compressor that came with my 150.
 
Which brings up another question-have you tried attaching it to a high volume compressor (like a shop compressor) and dialed the pressure down to 15-20psi? My gut (the part that's not sick) tells me the problem lies not in the airbrush, but in the available pressure/volume.
 
And, as Kurt noted, the Badger 150 is probably too small (even with a large needle) to cover lots of area at one time.
 
Anyway, a few thoughts from the sickie.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

Floyd,
Are either one my old Badger 150? And are you using the compressor that I gave you?
 
I added an aftermarket water trap and pressure gauge (I think from Micro-mark) I played with pressures from 15-50psi (the compressor maxed out at 60psi). I never seemed to put out enough pressure/flow. Compared to the MAS G23 I have now (my Iwata knock-off) the compressor (that came with it) puts out a lot more air than the compressor that came with my 150.
 
Which brings up another question-have you tried attaching it to a high volume compressor (like a shop compressor) and dialed the pressure down to 15-20psi? My gut (the part that's not sick) tells me the problem lies not in the airbrush, but in the available pressure/volume.
 
And, as Kurt noted, the Badger 150 is probably too small (even with a large needle) to cover lots of area at one time.
 
Anyway, a few thoughts from the sickie.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

Thanks everyone...I appreciate the concern.  My DR does not want to administer a cortisone shot at this time because the pain is not localized and therefore we are going to proceed with my chiropractic care as prescribed.
 
I have far less pain in my back and shoulder, but the remnant pain is persistent.
Not having full strength and control in my left arm I still am not seriously working on the GR.
 
I did, however, drill out more holes for the rail pins and set the belay pins..and located and drilled out eyebolt locations for the mainsail brace blocks.
 
Took some pics of the general state of the build thus far.
 
Rob

Bilge pump - done.
I think this is important point. With this one, I finished all complex structures on main deck, so ...  only just a "few" easier parts to be made, and I get significant closer to masts spars sails and ropes
 

Dear friends,
thank you very much for your praise and kind words, I do appreciate your support a lot. I am pleased, you enjoy the pics and like my work.
 
Oh you mean this...  Well I usually leave my signature on the frame/main rib. But on my older scratch-build model Sovereign of the Seas stayed my tears, cause I had some accidents and was sad also because of the problems and disappointment that life brought to me then....
 
***********************************
 
I have decided to improve decoration on the bow section and make larger/wider sculptures to achieve more realistic appearance. Lower pieces of decoration are completely new and they overlap the upper cheeks as you can see on many museum models from that period. I believe, this decision was good.
Enjoy the pics and have a good time.
 
 
Previous bow design:

 
And here's the current design:
 

 

Sorry I don't have a full step-by-step build log for this one but I had not thought about a build log when I started it, hence I have only completed/near completed photos to show
 
I chose the daytime mission colors (all gray) over the nighttime mission colors (all black).  Even then the decals are barely visible when photographed and only slight more visible to the naked eye.  But it was a fun and rather easy build.  Not a lot of fiddly bits to mess around with.   I also have the F117 Stealth Fighter by Testors/Italeri in 1:48 scale to build - Soon !!!
 

 
In Paint shop :

 
Final assembly and decal:
 

 
 

Here are  some more images of the finished install of all the jib sails and their associated downhauls and rigging.
 
Now it's time to add the inner and outer jib boom stays, their hearts and lanyards.
 
Rob

Second wintch done !
Nothing without little assistance

Five working hours, and it worth !
 


Temporary on position
 

And one from "bird" view
 

And I also began the flying jib as well....I'll finish it up tomorrow.

Spent some time adding the outer jib sail and its rigging.

Spent some time on the  jib sail tonight.
 
Rob