realworkingsailor

Piet, Go to www.boatnerd.com and click on the "news channel" link. The submarine museum in Cleveland (www.usscod.org) is going to be re-enacting the O-19 rescue on July 12 Andy

The basic technique is almost identical, you just have far more control with an airbrush. Andy

A good airbrush should run between $100 and $200. Best bet is to look in to your local hobby shop and see which brands they support. You're going to want a double action brush, as you have greater control over the paint/air flow than on a single action brush (which acts more like a rattle can). When you get set up, before you even approach your test model, practice on a few pieces of cardboard, or other scrap. Try to get the paint to a nice even coverage with no thin spots or weeps. Airbrushing really is not that hard to do, it just takes practice to do it well. Good luck Andy

So I've been driving across "the" half acre (as in h€££'s half acre) today. Picked up Diana from the ship, then turned around and headed north to the cottage..... About 8 hours on the road Time for some rest... And a goodly amount of beer and other adult beverages... Andy

You've got it Jan. It's one thing on a flat surface, but quite a different challenge on an open truss with thousands of angles, nooks and crannies. Andy

My main issue is the visuals. The truss is going to be a royal PITA to paint, any colour. I'm probably going to get some red automotive primer, then go grey over that. Andy

So it's been a long time since I've posted any kind of an update over here.... The weather is nice today, low humidity and a light breeze, so first thing this morning (ok.... not exactly first thing, but close to it), it was out to the picnic table with some newspaper, a couple of rattle cans of primer, and the big white beastie. (I love the smell of primer in the morning.... well... maybe not) I've pushed this step a little, there are still some details to add to the hull, but I can now see any flaws, nicks, scratches, gaps etc. that I missed when whe was glaringly white. Turns out... there are a few gaps... and scratches... and other areas that need a nice combination of sanding and filling. Not a big deal, I expected that. Incidentally, it's Tamiya grey primer that I used. OK for the hull, but when I do the unloading gear, I'm going to have to find something in a red primer... grey topcoat over grey primer is just not going to work.... Andy

Kevin, great to see you back. Like every one else has said, don't sell yourself short. You've done an amazing job to date. Andy

I'll be sure to follow along. I generally have the same impressions of the CC kit. Good, but could be better. Andy

Well, since the photo is a little less than determinate, and Werik guessed the ship you where after, by all rights it should be Werik's turn. (Also since I don't have time to find another ship at the moment, I could, but it would pause the game too much) Andy

I agree, you google each and end up with the same photos. Both side wheel passenger steamers, converted about the same time. Only way to tell them apart is by the funnels. Both had four, but Wolverine's were evenly spaced in a row, whereas Sable had hers in pairs. Andy

*Sigh* Is someone funnin' me? USS Wolverine Great Lakes Aircraft Carrier... used for training during WWII

I have a similar cutter. They're great for stock thats 0.5mm or less in thickness. Much thicker and you start to get an angled edge due to the cross section of the blade Andy

Greetings from another Swan class builder. For a first timer, you've surely picked a though one. Not impossible, though. Lot's of reference material here and as the others have said, the TFFM series of books are invaluable (just to help wrap your head around some of the concepts). Don't be afraid to ask questions, we've all hacked our way down this path before. Wood is forgiving, and extra parts can be ordered. You can honestly expect to take at least a year or longer on this build (I'm on my third, but mostly because I didn't manage any work last winter at all, so don't feel bad). Welcome to the Swan club! Andy

Nope, you got it.

Nope, and nope... This one's proving a bit hard to nip in the bud..... Andy

Er...... Not quite.... Sorry....

It's not embarrassing.... Just not correct I'm afraid....

Hmmm.... Time for a hint, perhaps? Part of her still exists. Andy

It's a head scratcher, that's for sure Andy

No weaponry on her (except perhaps the odd shot gun carried by a hunter taking passage).

When it comes to multiple identical vessels in the same fleet.... I prefer the "carpet bomb" approach.

Blue Funnel Line "A" Class vessel: "A" Boats Built In the Fleet Tons Adrastus 1953 Dutch Flag. 7,859 Aeneas 1947 Scrapped in 1972. 7,641 Agapenor 1947 Trapped in the Suez Canal 1967. 7,664 Alcinous 1952 Dutch Flag. 7,799 Antilochus 1949 In the fleet 1973. 7,635 Ascanius 1950 Left the fleet 1972. 7,692 Astyanax 1948 In the fleet 1973. 7,654 Atreus 1951 In the fleet 1973. 7,800 Autolycus 1949 In the fleet 1973. 7,635 Automedon 1949 Scrapped in 1971. 7,636 Calchas 1947 Lost through fire 1973. 7,639 Clytoneus 1948 Scrapped in 1972. 7,620 Cyclops 1948 In the fleet 1973. 7,632 Elpenor 1954 In the fleet 1973. 7,757 Eumaeus 1953 Dutch Flag. 7,681 Laertes 1950 Dutch Flag. 7,664 Laomedon 1953 In the fleet 1973. 7,684 Lycaon 1954 Dutch Flag. 7,859 Table from: http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/blue_funnel_home/a_boats/a_class.htm Andy

I'd say also leave off the trunnions as well, just mould a little dimple as a drill start point. They're easy enough to make with wire afterwards. Andy

Just a thought, what about casting the canon barrels as halves in a flat open mould, and then gluing them together? Andy