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Everything posted by realworkingsailor
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Helps keep them from gumming up the air brush. Chances are, that mix is something the creator came up with that works well in his air brush. A friend of mine uses a one brand (Can't remember off hand if it was a Badger or a Paasche) , and has no end of trouble with acrylic paint (enamels or lacquers are no problem for him). He gets about 15 to 20 mins of spray time before he has to disassemble and clean out the mechanism. More than anything, it's an issue with his particular model brush, rather than the brand itself. I have a Grex and have never had any trouble with acrylics. Andy
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I agree with Robbyn. I would love to replace the timber in some of the kits I have bought (and who knows I may even try scratch building something in the future), but I also find your ordering system a bit... well... awkward, even more so than some since I'm not American. I know others further afield than myself have made it work, but it would be nice if everything could be done online. Andy
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Gulfmedic1, sorry I missed your post. My ratio was about 1:1, thinner to paint, and I used clear Windex. Remember to keep the bottle well sealed, out of direct sunlight and upright. If things appear to be getting a little thick, just add a bit more thinner to regain the consistency you desire. Incidentally, as of last March, the paint was still good, so that's now well over a year. Andy
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I think your source is a little off, he has the historic details correct, but it was the Aurora that fired the first shot of the October Revolution. The Potemkin mutiny was in 1905. The ship itself was eventually scrapped in 1923 (after being rendered useless by British and White Russian forces).
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Yeah, still at work.. got another month to go. I was looking at the end-on shot (the second, vertical, pic you posted)... maybe my eyes are still crossed..... Andy
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Maybe it's just an optical delusion on my part.... but it looks like the top gallery sticks out more than the bottom It could just be lack of sleep too.... The side view looks great, however. Andy
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ahem... cough..flagonthestern...cough cough.....
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Pin pushers for planking?
realworkingsailor replied to Landlubber Mike's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I find these are slightly better in some cases: http://www.micromark.com/spike-insertion-plier,8242.html Andy -
Yup, 100 years ago.
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AHS Centaur http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AHS_Centaur Andy
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Best glue for rigging: CA & GS-Hypo
realworkingsailor replied to Beef Wellington's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Although I've got both types in stock at home, I've been using the regular orange stuff. Haven't tried the purple stuff yet.... Should make a point to.. Andy -
To further my earlier remarks... You have managed, far more than any other interior shot I've seen so far (on the entire MSW), to take us literally into the ship yard. I like how the graceful sweep of the planks draws the viewers eyes towards the details around the mast step, and even though it's probably only a few inches in reality, it seems like a hundred feet. Without a sense of scale, you somehow manage to convey the massiveness of the timbers, the intricacies of the joinery, and moreover, the accuracy of your construction. Incredibly well done. You really should get that one printed and framed. Andy
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That last photo, I think, qualifies as the most stunning of the build so far. Absolutely amazing! Andy
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Looking forward to following along your next build... I see lot's of possibilities for your kitbashing/superdetailing abilities! Now as for a chair....... **Eyes Mark seated comfortably** Nah... I'll just grab my own.. Andy
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My Serving Jig
realworkingsailor replied to Artificer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Any time Glad I could come up with an understandable explanation Andy -
My Serving Jig
realworkingsailor replied to Artificer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
(Refer back to BE's Picture) If the two gears that hold the thicker rope (at the top) are mechanically isolated from each other, the turning action of one does not get translated through the thick line to the other. This will create a twist in the thick rope, and also if you put any tension in the serving thread (the thin stuff) you'll stop the thick line from turning altogether. To counteract this, the gears need to turn at the same rate. This is where the bottom gears and shaft come in to play. By mechanically connecting both ends of the thick rope, they now turn at the same rate, eliminating the twist and allowing for an improved, tighter, serving. Andy -
My Serving Jig
realworkingsailor replied to Artificer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The whole point of the lower shaft is so that both parts holding the line being served turn at the same time. This prevents building a nasty unwanted twist in the line. Andy -
Really great job, Augie! I wouldn't go fishing too much... who knows what the ravenous mob might do if you don't drop them a picture of progress now and again... Andy
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If you call that a mess.... then I must be doing something wrong..... Andy
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Yup, at 109 years (built 1905), this old tug is still hard at work around the lakes.
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Looking great, enjoy the sunshine and that beer I see peeking in the background! Andy
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