realworkingsailor

Regarding the 2nd or 3rd Anti-tank, it’s possible that an earlier issue of the kit contained markings for the latter, they just neglected to update that part of the instructions.
 
And just to note regarding your figures, the Canadian uniforms, while they followed the same pattern as the British ones, the material was more of a greenish colour. If you do a couple of google searches for Canadian or British battledress there are lots of colour photo examples.

Anyway, can’t wait to see this build!
 
Andy

From what I’ve been able to dig up, the 3rd Anti Tank didn’t receive their Archers until much later in the War. Photos of them after D-day show them using American M-10s or Universal (Bren) Carriers towing 6 pounders.

As for when they may have crossed paths, the most plausible would be Operation Totalize, Aug 7 - 10 1944. In that operation 2nd Can Infantry Div And British 51st H Infantry Div broke out over Verrieres ridge along the Caen-Falaise highway.
 
And from the looks of it, Tamiya really botched the instructions as 2nd Anti Tank RCA was attached to 2nd Can Infantry Div, not 3rd. So far all that means that the Division identifier on the Archer should be a gold maple leaf on a blue background as opposed to a gold maple leaf on a grey background.
 
Andy

Regarding the 2nd or 3rd Anti-tank, it’s possible that an earlier issue of the kit contained markings for the latter, they just neglected to update that part of the instructions.
 
And just to note regarding your figures, the Canadian uniforms, while they followed the same pattern as the British ones, the material was more of a greenish colour. If you do a couple of google searches for Canadian or British battledress there are lots of colour photo examples.

Anyway, can’t wait to see this build!
 
Andy

Thanks Alan, it’s a useful technique any time you need to leave an impression in plaster without messing up that which you are using to impress. Footprints, tire tracks, or even the keel imprint from a boat on a muddy riverbank.
 
I had hoped to be able to do further work on my diorama this weekend, I had ordered the scenery supplies for the first layers, however it appears that someone in the postal service put my parcel on the wrong truck:
 
Feb. 2
11:09 am 
Item re-routed due to processing error; Possible delay   😡😡
  So I shall now have to find something else to do this weekend…. I was so hoping to turn that white plaster field into various shades of fuzzy green ground foam…   Andy

Thanks Alan, it’s a useful technique any time you need to leave an impression in plaster without messing up that which you are using to impress. Footprints, tire tracks, or even the keel imprint from a boat on a muddy riverbank.
 
I had hoped to be able to do further work on my diorama this weekend, I had ordered the scenery supplies for the first layers, however it appears that someone in the postal service put my parcel on the wrong truck:
 
Feb. 2
11:09 am 
Item re-routed due to processing error; Possible delay   😡😡
  So I shall now have to find something else to do this weekend…. I was so hoping to turn that white plaster field into various shades of fuzzy green ground foam…   Andy

Regarding the 2nd or 3rd Anti-tank, it’s possible that an earlier issue of the kit contained markings for the latter, they just neglected to update that part of the instructions.
 
And just to note regarding your figures, the Canadian uniforms, while they followed the same pattern as the British ones, the material was more of a greenish colour. If you do a couple of google searches for Canadian or British battledress there are lots of colour photo examples.

Anyway, can’t wait to see this build!
 
Andy

Hi all,
 
Here is the introduction to my build of the Tamiya 1:35 scale Archer vehicle.
 
 First some box artwork.

 
The version I will build is centred on the 2nd Anti-Tank Regiment, 3rd Canadian Infantry Division, which used the Archer in North-West Europe early 1945. There is also available in the kit, markings for a 7th Anti-Tank Regiment Polish II Corps, active in Italy early 1945.  I expect I will build a scenario/diorama around the Archer.

 
The contents of the box.

 
The Canadian markings.

 
Strangely enough, the Tamiya blurb inside the box says the Archer was used by the 1st Canadian Infantry Division's 3rd Anti-tank Regiment....rather than the 3rd Canadian Infantry Division's 2nd Anti-Tank Regiment? Any thoughts anyone?

 
Over the past couple of weeks I have also built 5 British Infantry figures...I'll try to use them in any scenario I come up with plus, perhaps, some German road signs (probably made by MiniArt).

 
So I'm now off to do a bit of reading up/research on what part of the Canadian forces using the Archer were active in North West Europe 1945, and where and what they were doing. Andy (realworkingsailor) on MSW had already provided some references during my Churchill tank build.
 
Back soon'ish,
 
Richard
 

Post One Hundred and Thirty-eight
Poop Deck
I had assembled the Mizen Bitts and Skylight earlier in the build, and they are now added, along with the Poop breast rail.

3531

3535

3539
Note:
Before you fit the Mizen Bitts check the plans; don’t go by the Manual photos, they will lead you astray.
 
Flag Lockers
These have a nicely crafted core of brass etch sections that slot together seamlessly. An outer skin of laser cut Pear complete the units.

3540
I wasn’t overkeen on the engraved boarding on the top so I added a lead sheathing for ‘weather protection’.

3537
At this point the lead hasn’t been weathered, as I did with the Gallery roof.

3538
Not much more to do on the Poop, but I did think about the fittings for an Ensign Staff.
The kit doesn’t include the fittings and few contemporary models show them.
 
I don’t have any specific evidence for the type used on ‘Indy’, but I think she would have had them.
These items are provided with the Sphinx kit, but a simple Cap-square and step for the staff would be fairly easy to make.
 
Onto the Channels.
 
B.E.
02/02/2024

Hi all, I completed the paneling of the underside of the fuselage with a black oil color which admittedly might be a bit too stark.

Then, I decided to go for a second coat of Tamiya gloss X-22 finally obtaining the good smooth finish that I wanted.

Thanks to the wet sanding and two very thinned gloss coats, I obtained the good level of smoothness that I wanted and that is shown in the details below.


Now, I am really ready for decaling (actually, I have still to finish the inside of the jet opening). As said in earlier posts, the original Hasegawa decals don't look that good with whites that appear creamy and I didn't like them. Fortunately, I bought from an Italian shop on the web a nice decal sheet from SkyModels dedicated to this specific aircraft with a large choice of markings.

The quality of the print looks excellent (made by Cartograph) and there are plenty of different possibilities to chose from.
That is all for now, I will take my time to select the group or squadron which looks coolest to me.
Best regards,
Dan
 
 
 

Today I finished the glass case, and my wife was so kind to clean the glass in- and outside, as well as to help  carry and  swap some of the other cases to a new display place in my hobby office.
This closes the project
 
Here some final pics of the casing and its build..... This was my 11th  case I built this way and I`m pleased that to date there was no broken glass. I`m not so happy of the steadily increasing prices for glass, so I`m surprised of the glasser`s offers every time.
I would like to thank all that were interested in the build log, with many likes, wows, appreciations, comments and suggestions allong the ride.
 
 
Nils

the glass-panes are held with helping aids, such as the "third hand" clamped to the cupboard above, short fixing- and distance pieces, and preliminary self adhesive tape

the angles are well keep the panes in place
 

after the top panel is complete stained and framed, the 4 vertical profiles are stained an cut to length
 
 

now comes the final assembly.....

here again the clamped on "third hand"

the right angle corner

mounting the top panel ( lid) to the rest

metal corners fixed with stainless steel blackend philips flat cross-head screws (M1,7 x 6mm )

the glass bonnet set down on the base with the 6 interacting positioning pins, also the are 6 self adhesive felt patches  under the baseplate to enable a smooth contact.
 

Post One Hundred and Thirty-Seven
 
Qtr deck Fittings. (Part six.)
 
All that remains to do is the QD rail, and ladders to the Upper deck.
 The carronades can then be put into place.
 
Quarterdeck Breast rail.

3503
This classically shaped rail for ships of this era is fairly straightforward to fit until the top slotted rail is fitted over the stanchions.

3509
This is a 0.6mm delicate rail thro’ which the Hammock cranes are fitted into the base.
 
I found careful and gentle fettling of both rail and Crane was necessary to ensure that the cranes fitted thro’ without stress and risk of breaking the rail.
I took the precaution of drilling out the fitting holes for an easier fit. The cranes should fit flush with the top.

3507

3515
The Cranes were used to align the capping rail but will be  fitted later. They are notorious snag magnets.

3516

3519

3521

3522

3523
Movin’ aft to the Poop.
 
B.E.
31/01/2024
 

I’ll let you know when I get notified of your response… 🤪
 
Edit: 12 minutes.

It was still lagging earlier today, for me. I have noticed that for quoted posts, “likes” or “@“ tagged responses the notifications have been instantaneous.
 
Andy

Thanks for the likes and kind comments!
 
As predicted, adding the spackling compound took a good portion of the weekend. First step was to add another layer to the raised "runway" area:
 

 
I did get a little bit of cracking, I suspect this was partly due to the underlying layer absorbing some of the moisture from the top layer, causing it to cure too quickly. Not a big deal as I just went over with a small amount to fill in any blemishes afterwards. I then put on a skim coat over the entire board. This was a very thin layer that will provide a nice base to which paint and scenery can adhere. Unfortunately, the only photo I have of this step turned out blurry and dark. Too much of a rush with the camera (the dog wanted to go walkies... right now!).
 
Anyway, once that was dry I needed to take care of the "muddy" areas.
 
I first applied a dollop of spackling compound into the recessed areas and smoothed it out with my putty knife. I wanted to create some wheel ruts and signs of travel. To do this I first covered the area with a layer of cling film (Saran Wrap). I then took a couple of "spare tires" from the Airfix kit that I hadn't yet glued to their respective vehicles (planning ahead here!), and stuck them on the end of a bamboo skewer with a bit of blue tack. Using the matching vehicle to gauge track width, I rolled the wheel through the wet blob of spackling compound. The cling film kept the compound from adhering to the wheels. By applying a bit of pressure as I rolled the wheels along, I could accurately reproduce the effects of a wheel, or a few wheels passing through mud:
 

 
After leaving my impressions, I carefully lifted off the Saran Wrap to allow the spackling to dry.
 

 
Resulting in a couple of rather stark looking mud holes!
 
As things stand now, I have a nice white base ready for an undercoat of paint:
 

 
I was able to get things fairly smooth with the putting knife as I applied the spackling, there were only a couple of spots where I needed to go over with a little bit of sand paper. I'm not fussed about having it completely flat. Even the most "level" ground has subtle undulations and bumps. Most of the ones noticeable on my board will disappear under the scenery anyway.
 
Time to get an order in for some scenery supplies!
 
Andy
 

Hi all, just a small update to show that work is on going. I finished the first gloss coat on the overall airframe. Small pieces have still to be completed:

Unfortunately, divots on the wings are still evident, but I will have to live with that. The rest is looking fine. In principle, I could start decaling, but I have not chosen the group squadron yet. Meanwhile, I started to work with oil colors on the wheel bay.

On the front part, I used the oil colors for the panels and to discolor the glass fiber dielectric panel:

Going on with the other surface details, but I believe I need another gloss layer before the decals.
Best regards,
Dan
 
 
 

Post One Hundred and Thirty-Six
 
Inboard fittings (Part five.)
Work continues on the Quarterdeck.

3472
Tiller ropes have been added to the ships wheel together with a representation of the sliding feet.
 
The quarterdeck ladderway and associated items are the last centre line fitting to attend to.

3465
Not one of my favourite jobs assembling these delicate parts, but they are nice examples once the job is successfully achieved.

3467

3469
I have taken the opportunity to fine down the tops of the Head ledges where they meet the coamings of the after hatchways, something that has been annoying me for a while.
 
The model has adopted hinged covers to the ladderway, a direct take from the NMM Amazon model.

 
As far as I know the Amazon is the only contemporary model to show this feature, but without this facility working the Upper Capstan would prove very difficult. Otherwise, I suppose temporary Boards could be fitted when the Capstan was in use.
 
The kit offering is a laser engraved Pear item with brass etched hinges.

3470
One of my pet dislikes in ship modelling is bent over eyebolts to represent ring handles. I replaced these with ring bolts.
Another small addition to the covers is a rebate added to one cover for the other to sit on when closed.
 
You will note that the Amazon model has iron stanchions around the ladderway.
The kit doesn’t indicate use of these which is a little odd as all the other ladderways on the gundeck have them.
I added stanchions using the same method as for the Gun-deck.

3477
They are made from ball headed steel pins of 0.9mm ø with a 1.3mm finial. For the eyes to carry the rail bars 0.3mm eyelets, (Caldercraft) are used.
The eyes are silver soldered to the posts using two melt points.

3479
0.5mm ø brass rod is used for the rails.

3488

3492

3495
The covers slot into the ladderway framing but are seemingly unsupported. Were I rigging the model I would add an eyebolt to the headledges to lash the covers  in the vertical position.

3500

3502
The next part should see completion of the Quarterdeck fittings.
 
B.E.
30/01/2024
 

All filled and sanded.
 

Thanks for the likes and kind comments!
 
As predicted, adding the spackling compound took a good portion of the weekend. First step was to add another layer to the raised "runway" area:
 

 
I did get a little bit of cracking, I suspect this was partly due to the underlying layer absorbing some of the moisture from the top layer, causing it to cure too quickly. Not a big deal as I just went over with a small amount to fill in any blemishes afterwards. I then put on a skim coat over the entire board. This was a very thin layer that will provide a nice base to which paint and scenery can adhere. Unfortunately, the only photo I have of this step turned out blurry and dark. Too much of a rush with the camera (the dog wanted to go walkies... right now!).
 
Anyway, once that was dry I needed to take care of the "muddy" areas.
 
I first applied a dollop of spackling compound into the recessed areas and smoothed it out with my putty knife. I wanted to create some wheel ruts and signs of travel. To do this I first covered the area with a layer of cling film (Saran Wrap). I then took a couple of "spare tires" from the Airfix kit that I hadn't yet glued to their respective vehicles (planning ahead here!), and stuck them on the end of a bamboo skewer with a bit of blue tack. Using the matching vehicle to gauge track width, I rolled the wheel through the wet blob of spackling compound. The cling film kept the compound from adhering to the wheels. By applying a bit of pressure as I rolled the wheels along, I could accurately reproduce the effects of a wheel, or a few wheels passing through mud:
 

 
After leaving my impressions, I carefully lifted off the Saran Wrap to allow the spackling to dry.
 

 
Resulting in a couple of rather stark looking mud holes!
 
As things stand now, I have a nice white base ready for an undercoat of paint:
 

 
I was able to get things fairly smooth with the putting knife as I applied the spackling, there were only a couple of spots where I needed to go over with a little bit of sand paper. I'm not fussed about having it completely flat. Even the most "level" ground has subtle undulations and bumps. Most of the ones noticeable on my board will disappear under the scenery anyway.
 
Time to get an order in for some scenery supplies!
 
Andy
 

I airbrushed the grey primer onto the figures. I am amazed how much detail Pendraken get into their 10mm figures

I like the matte medium and sanding dust for the path way. It also makes a good layer to embed the figures into
 

Aedes Ars provided a small bag of fine particles which looked like they might work to add some texture to the path. They look quite good to the eye but teh photo shows them to be far too big for gravel. I may use a bit elsewhere or at the edges of the path.
 
I made up a "sand" colour mix from craft acrylics and painted it on as a base for the path; its a bit pink but I think it will work under the matte medium mix. I also added the shallow steps seen in the drone video of the real thing.
 

 
TAP Plastic have already shipped the custom cut plexiglass for the display case. Arriving next Monday
 
Thanks for looking in and all the likes and comments
 
Alan

I like the cling film to help make the wheel ruts
Alan

Thanks for the likes and kind comments!
 
As predicted, adding the spackling compound took a good portion of the weekend. First step was to add another layer to the raised "runway" area:
 

 
I did get a little bit of cracking, I suspect this was partly due to the underlying layer absorbing some of the moisture from the top layer, causing it to cure too quickly. Not a big deal as I just went over with a small amount to fill in any blemishes afterwards. I then put on a skim coat over the entire board. This was a very thin layer that will provide a nice base to which paint and scenery can adhere. Unfortunately, the only photo I have of this step turned out blurry and dark. Too much of a rush with the camera (the dog wanted to go walkies... right now!).
 
Anyway, once that was dry I needed to take care of the "muddy" areas.
 
I first applied a dollop of spackling compound into the recessed areas and smoothed it out with my putty knife. I wanted to create some wheel ruts and signs of travel. To do this I first covered the area with a layer of cling film (Saran Wrap). I then took a couple of "spare tires" from the Airfix kit that I hadn't yet glued to their respective vehicles (planning ahead here!), and stuck them on the end of a bamboo skewer with a bit of blue tack. Using the matching vehicle to gauge track width, I rolled the wheel through the wet blob of spackling compound. The cling film kept the compound from adhering to the wheels. By applying a bit of pressure as I rolled the wheels along, I could accurately reproduce the effects of a wheel, or a few wheels passing through mud:
 

 
After leaving my impressions, I carefully lifted off the Saran Wrap to allow the spackling to dry.
 

 
Resulting in a couple of rather stark looking mud holes!
 
As things stand now, I have a nice white base ready for an undercoat of paint:
 

 
I was able to get things fairly smooth with the putting knife as I applied the spackling, there were only a couple of spots where I needed to go over with a little bit of sand paper. I'm not fussed about having it completely flat. Even the most "level" ground has subtle undulations and bumps. Most of the ones noticeable on my board will disappear under the scenery anyway.
 
Time to get an order in for some scenery supplies!
 
Andy
 

Thanks for the likes and kind comments!
 
As predicted, adding the spackling compound took a good portion of the weekend. First step was to add another layer to the raised "runway" area:
 

 
I did get a little bit of cracking, I suspect this was partly due to the underlying layer absorbing some of the moisture from the top layer, causing it to cure too quickly. Not a big deal as I just went over with a small amount to fill in any blemishes afterwards. I then put on a skim coat over the entire board. This was a very thin layer that will provide a nice base to which paint and scenery can adhere. Unfortunately, the only photo I have of this step turned out blurry and dark. Too much of a rush with the camera (the dog wanted to go walkies... right now!).
 
Anyway, once that was dry I needed to take care of the "muddy" areas.
 
I first applied a dollop of spackling compound into the recessed areas and smoothed it out with my putty knife. I wanted to create some wheel ruts and signs of travel. To do this I first covered the area with a layer of cling film (Saran Wrap). I then took a couple of "spare tires" from the Airfix kit that I hadn't yet glued to their respective vehicles (planning ahead here!), and stuck them on the end of a bamboo skewer with a bit of blue tack. Using the matching vehicle to gauge track width, I rolled the wheel through the wet blob of spackling compound. The cling film kept the compound from adhering to the wheels. By applying a bit of pressure as I rolled the wheels along, I could accurately reproduce the effects of a wheel, or a few wheels passing through mud:
 

 
After leaving my impressions, I carefully lifted off the Saran Wrap to allow the spackling to dry.
 

 
Resulting in a couple of rather stark looking mud holes!
 
As things stand now, I have a nice white base ready for an undercoat of paint:
 

 
I was able to get things fairly smooth with the putting knife as I applied the spackling, there were only a couple of spots where I needed to go over with a little bit of sand paper. I'm not fussed about having it completely flat. Even the most "level" ground has subtle undulations and bumps. Most of the ones noticeable on my board will disappear under the scenery anyway.
 
Time to get an order in for some scenery supplies!
 
Andy
 

Thanks for the likes and kind comments!
 
As predicted, adding the spackling compound took a good portion of the weekend. First step was to add another layer to the raised "runway" area:
 

 
I did get a little bit of cracking, I suspect this was partly due to the underlying layer absorbing some of the moisture from the top layer, causing it to cure too quickly. Not a big deal as I just went over with a small amount to fill in any blemishes afterwards. I then put on a skim coat over the entire board. This was a very thin layer that will provide a nice base to which paint and scenery can adhere. Unfortunately, the only photo I have of this step turned out blurry and dark. Too much of a rush with the camera (the dog wanted to go walkies... right now!).
 
Anyway, once that was dry I needed to take care of the "muddy" areas.
 
I first applied a dollop of spackling compound into the recessed areas and smoothed it out with my putty knife. I wanted to create some wheel ruts and signs of travel. To do this I first covered the area with a layer of cling film (Saran Wrap). I then took a couple of "spare tires" from the Airfix kit that I hadn't yet glued to their respective vehicles (planning ahead here!), and stuck them on the end of a bamboo skewer with a bit of blue tack. Using the matching vehicle to gauge track width, I rolled the wheel through the wet blob of spackling compound. The cling film kept the compound from adhering to the wheels. By applying a bit of pressure as I rolled the wheels along, I could accurately reproduce the effects of a wheel, or a few wheels passing through mud:
 

 
After leaving my impressions, I carefully lifted off the Saran Wrap to allow the spackling to dry.
 

 
Resulting in a couple of rather stark looking mud holes!
 
As things stand now, I have a nice white base ready for an undercoat of paint:
 

 
I was able to get things fairly smooth with the putting knife as I applied the spackling, there were only a couple of spots where I needed to go over with a little bit of sand paper. I'm not fussed about having it completely flat. Even the most "level" ground has subtle undulations and bumps. Most of the ones noticeable on my board will disappear under the scenery anyway.
 
Time to get an order in for some scenery supplies!
 
Andy
 

Update on the repairs and modifications I made to the stern after dropping the model a few weeks back.  It's taken a while to decide what to do, but in the end for an unplanned detour, it's turned out okay.
 
After breaking the stern transom and counter and then marking the wood in the the process of gluing back together, I knew I was going to have to make the decision of painting the damaged wood and this took me a while to come to terms with as the bulwarks look so nice with just Danish oil applied. Given the boom supports were snapped I decided to fashion some of my own with thicker wood from the kit to try and match NMM drawing ZAZ6418 as best I could, but with a nod to the contemporary model referenced elsewhere on MSW, I shaped them to give a slightly curved profile and added some inlaid pear strip to side profile to mimic the ZAZ6418 details.
 
Having painted the transom and counter, the lower stern counter rails and transom framing did stand out better than I hoped against the black paint.  So overall; with the caveat that I'd rather not had to do it, I'm happy with my repair job.  Some final touching up and a flat coat needed, but that can wait until the hull is nearly complete and I can do all that stuff in one go.
 
Other little details completed at the weekend was the galley chimney, traversing tackle ring bolts and mast coat from lead foil.

Thanks for the likes and kind comments!
 
As predicted, adding the spackling compound took a good portion of the weekend. First step was to add another layer to the raised "runway" area:
 

 
I did get a little bit of cracking, I suspect this was partly due to the underlying layer absorbing some of the moisture from the top layer, causing it to cure too quickly. Not a big deal as I just went over with a small amount to fill in any blemishes afterwards. I then put on a skim coat over the entire board. This was a very thin layer that will provide a nice base to which paint and scenery can adhere. Unfortunately, the only photo I have of this step turned out blurry and dark. Too much of a rush with the camera (the dog wanted to go walkies... right now!).
 
Anyway, once that was dry I needed to take care of the "muddy" areas.
 
I first applied a dollop of spackling compound into the recessed areas and smoothed it out with my putty knife. I wanted to create some wheel ruts and signs of travel. To do this I first covered the area with a layer of cling film (Saran Wrap). I then took a couple of "spare tires" from the Airfix kit that I hadn't yet glued to their respective vehicles (planning ahead here!), and stuck them on the end of a bamboo skewer with a bit of blue tack. Using the matching vehicle to gauge track width, I rolled the wheel through the wet blob of spackling compound. The cling film kept the compound from adhering to the wheels. By applying a bit of pressure as I rolled the wheels along, I could accurately reproduce the effects of a wheel, or a few wheels passing through mud:
 

 
After leaving my impressions, I carefully lifted off the Saran Wrap to allow the spackling to dry.
 

 
Resulting in a couple of rather stark looking mud holes!
 
As things stand now, I have a nice white base ready for an undercoat of paint:
 

 
I was able to get things fairly smooth with the putting knife as I applied the spackling, there were only a couple of spots where I needed to go over with a little bit of sand paper. I'm not fussed about having it completely flat. Even the most "level" ground has subtle undulations and bumps. Most of the ones noticeable on my board will disappear under the scenery anyway.
 
Time to get an order in for some scenery supplies!
 
Andy