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mikegr

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Everything posted by mikegr

  1. I am using ABS like Anycubic. Its far more forgiving than the standard. Water washable only. Sometimes I add 20-25% of this https://www.resione.com/?srsltid=AfmBOor4fbt1yKBu436_fjSO-zH-xqWDL-jqFQZXMiapGbvLijodaTKF This is even more elastic any gives smooth plastic feel texture. Its also very quick maybe 1-1.5 sec per layer. However if you want to print long and thin items like masts, gun barrels most probably these will bend after curing so its not always the best option
  2. Lot of work small progress. Bridge part fell off, many pieces broken especially those made from older resin with 0 elasticity. All repaired, added communication antennas and radar masts. All cranes in place except those at the funnels. These are fragile need to tighten down with rigging.
  3. These are two models of the Swedish Visby class corvette. I bought this design but had to make some modifications to print it in 1/700. Even at first attempt they printed great. Will enchance the model with PE and bit of work. I think with proper paint job will look nice on a sea base display
  4. looks great I had a B58 Italery with Eduards PE but got rid of it. Definitely a lot of metal paintjob and shades.
  5. That is what I do. I strip down a 1 dollar paint brush. Use the hair for paint as well. Some can be tear apart to 2 or 3 sections . can't find anything thinner than this.
  6. I'm glad I helped. I remember artist Chris Flodberg mentioned the usage of gesso even to a dozen of layers to get the desired effect. While forming the big waves is relatively easy and can be achieved with different materials and ways, making the actual surface texture in accordance always with the scale is trickier. The Korean artist you are watching in you tube is I believe the finest in the world. However his skills are unreachable for the average modeler. Lately he has released a series of simplified versions of his works. I also found the epoxy putty quite pricey. Therefore I switch to resin, not only more affordable but also for its transparency. But also has its limitations. Of course you can't create a heavy sea with resin.
  7. Maybe use some thick gesso layers instead of gel to smoothen up things. Its really easy to work with
  8. I 3d printed a model of a Chinook helicopter which founded online, after doing some necessary modification. I confused the fuselage length to the total length which include the blades. So after doing my maths at 43mm fuselage length it turned to be in 1/372 scale. Nevertheless instead of throwing it away, I made a simple diorama. The blades were scratched. The resin wasn't polished because this had to ended today last day before my 3 weeks leave. Pics were also taken in a hurry. Fortunately I didn't miss the ferry im actually on board as I'm posting it.
  9. i see some white spots. Is this a desired a effect? If not may need to regulate your airbrush possibly the spitting effect is created by thick paint
  10. Nice I'm going to present my own collection of less famous, smaller vessels soon. Some are 3d printed.
  11. Thank you. This is actually the first part of the trilogy. In the future a Spruance and a Burke will be added so I can have a complete collection Thanks as always for your support and dedication
  12. Work proceeded in the usual way. A comparison with a scratch built type 53H3 PLA frigate Definitely not the most practical place to store but at least it keeps the dust away. Maybe I should put some lights
  13. Spent an evening to paint a few black dots and add few decals. Helicopter was landed safely. Then I followed the trusted method of making sea bed. This time the model shut forward with lot of space aft so I can work better the rear wakes
  14. Be hold the mighty Abrams, the king of the dessert! I was quite satisfied considering the effort I spend, no PEs, just a bit of scratch built add on. Not the best M1 model out there but I will definitely repeat. This time with another dessert rat, the Merkava, by Revell too, rated at skill level 5. I will make a small collection including T-90MBT and a Leopard II.
  15. Thanks for the supportive comment. I have now finished the rigging. Added few details and some light-moderated weathering and a bit of dark oil washing. Final step before seamaking is the SH60 helicopter. Again a 3d printed item enchanced with PE rotor blades. For the landing system I modified a ww2 gear set, in V shape and glued the smaller wheel, on the rear.
  16. The model is almost done. Need to erase some imperfections especially shinny bits of PE parts, I can't get rid of them. Rigging and oil washing is the next step. A helicopter will be added also
  17. Work started. I'm not experience on this had to apply thinner to correct mistakes. One small decal melted. I should have put them after oil washing. Nevertheless the overall result is satisfied, I only made one tank model this was 30 years ago and with out any paint just assembly out of the box. A kinda overused Abrams but ok it's an old A1 version. Next week I will make a display base
  18. Sometimes it take me a century to move a small step forward. The boat sections on both sides are rebuilt from zero. I lost one boat so I took one from my stash, I cut it shorter and with sanding it took the desired space. Fitting rail bits was time consuming also. At least I had made some progress on my layout base
  19. Final details -rear lights drilled filled with silicone and painted clear red. -Antennas installled. -Spare wheel and track added. -Secondary guns added -Decals Ii gave it a coat of clear varnsih before applying some oils.
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