jaerschen

The chief wants to have a pizza ...
 

 
... matchwood was made ...
 

 
... and one door remains shut, we do not need family size ;-)
 

 
But what will the gunner say about the ill use of his portable forge ?!?
 
Cheers, Daniel

... unfinished business, don´t go into the light ...
  ... still have to fix the outside of the side tackles ...   ... but tell me how, yes how?!?!   All easy? The hook already being fixed on the tackle, but the eyebolt still missing.    Ok, sticky business ...     ... once through the hull and ramming the sting deep into the meat! Better than drilling and no mess :-)     Maneuvering the eyebolt deep inside of the hull with the help of some thin tweezers ...     ... and juggle the hook with other pointed things into the eyebolt.     Almost like a bottle ship - just omit the bottle and take a deep-deep hull instead ...   XXXDAn   PS: Hurra, there is a light at the end of the tunnel ...   PPS: ... another train?   PPPS: ...

Hopefully not to confuse the situation,  But here is a better image of Cheerfuls stem parts.  You are using the outboard plan.  This is from the inboard draft.  I have seen this arrangement on two other cutters but sadly these details are not shown on most cutter drafts.  The Alert is much younger also so this may not even be applicable.   
 
But I wanted to mention how all of the lines on the draft you posted are dashed for these elements.  On the inboard sheet however it shows the dashed lines as if they were parts cut for the other side of the stem only.  Meaning that the stem was intended to be cut in one piece and the two other elements used for the boxing joint and apron on the other side only.  That is ...if I am reading the draft correctly.   It seems unlikely that they could find such a large piece to make the stem like that.   So I agree with Ed that in all likelihood it depended on what wood they had on hand and probably ended up with a  much different "made up"  stem that may not have matched any of these choices.
 
So I simplified it a great deal for my project because I dont find all of these elements an attractive addition to a ship model anyway.  Its too distracting and busy.  In fact....you never see the separate pieces on almost all of the contemporary cutter models I have seen.  The stem is always one piece down to the boxing joint.
 

If I fit the transoms I had a big trouble. The reason was a wrong angle at the top-view plan.
On the following photo you can see the correct angle and the discrepancy.

 
If I know that it was possible to fit transoms.







 

Hi Kevin,
 
at the start of my build I printed the frames on self-adhesive labels. That worked very well

There it is! The black lines are external planking and the red the internal. It's hard to sort them out at such a small size, but much easier to distinguish at 1:48 scale. This drawing was actually done in the shipyard as the ship was being built!

Tom, you'll see the filler piece in a few days.  I have attached the Hornet planking scheme from the NMM.  It is plan ZAZ5119.
 
 
 
 

Inserting find Druxey - here are some copper versions from HMS Investigator, refitted in 1851. 
 

A good start in your project Kevin. I can't wait to see more.

I think the widest marks were placed with the letters tight against each other, as the example from the NMM. These were from the wreck of the Royal George, sunk in 1782.

A good start in your project Kevin. I can't wait to see more.

well i made a start, a few days away from making sawdust though
1x cherry planking
2x pear framing
1x sycamore-don't know what for (forgotten)
1x maple decking
also bought a chuck for my lathe, was fed up not being able to centre the lumber
and a couple of proxxon blades for the fet 
 
i may purchase the brynes sander for crimbo
 
 
 
 

That Cheerful draught is unusual: if it was drawn that way, it must have been done like that. However, I'd say that was most unusual. The strength of the joints would be compromised and more bolts would need removing to replace the forefoot or gripe piece. The attached image is rather small, but demonstrates my point. (If you click on it, it will enlarge.) Note the keel joint at around station 6, aft.

Hi Daniel,
 
It sounds great your new project, very nice ship. I believe it must participated at the battle of Trafalgar if it existed, but that isn't so. But this is really only a conjecture.
I hope your Triton build to go further and you can show us some new photos soon.

igloo making, no, but the same shape
 car wax used on the mold so the mold does not stick to the bread stove
inside the  wooden shell, modified shelf so that it can be self supported by the wall of the oven

Not much to show for the last few weeks.  Last week was devoted to the NRG meeting.  It was great to put faces to some new names.  Hope to see you again next year in Mystic.
 
I started the planking below the wales.  The first 6 rows of planking are anchor stock and the rest is standard planking.  The first strake is 3" thick at the wale, tapering down to 2".  The rest of the strakes are 2" thick.  I laid the first row of strakes full thickness and then tapered the lower edge after the second row of planking was completed.  The extreme fore and aft planks are dropped.  I marked out the landing spots for the planks terminating at the counter to prevent any uneven plank widths.  Holly is a pleasure to work with for the hull planking.  Gentle curves can bent by hand.  The extreme bends require a 30 minute soak in water and are pinned in place with clamps and planking screws.  After they are completely dry, final shaping is done and the plank is glued in place with almost no pressure.  I like to rough sand the planks every few rows to check for any problems.  It is a lot easier to pop one or two problem planks now rather than several planks after the hull is completed.  
 
The wale has gotten scuffed with handling and sanding.  It will get a re-paint  after all the planking has been installed.
 

 

 

 

 
 

Oh how time flies when we're having fun.....
 
Ok.. got the shop back into shipyard mode and I'm working on the gunports.   I have to thin the frames down some (to 1/16" at the ports) so that their wide enough... Done!!!!
 
I then have to put in the sills, paying particular attention to the location at each end of the each sill.  I still check each one.  So far, 6 have been done.   I also check each one with check tool made from some yellowheart.  Actually not made.  Turns out the pen blank I bought as a sample to see what yellowheart looked like was about 1/64" inch too big.  A quick bit of sanding and it's perfect for the job.
 
I'm scratching my head as Hahn made most of his ships in 1:96 and just a few in bigger scales.  How the heck did thin the frames for the ports or get the level of detail he got, I'll never know.
 
Anyway.. the pic.  And like the rest of us, right now I'm hating the macro setting.       
 

My new keel drawing is finished.

 
Next I will draw the frames and build the new bigger version of my keel

Daniel asked me to show how I get the different center points and radii for the construction of an frame. Please be in mind that there are a lot of  other steps necessary before you can start with the frame construction.

First let me refer to two articles which I think that they are very helpful in understanding the lines of an original drawing
1. David Antscherl: Understanding Eighteenth-Century Admirality Drafts, Nautical Research Journal Vol. 52, No. 2 Summer 2008
2. David White: Understandig Ships' Draughts, Model Shipwright No. 48 ff.
 
I made some screen shots during the construction of the main frame of the cutter.

After creating the "Breath Extreme" line in the Body-Plan, I define the Center Points for the Lower Height of Breath.


Next I determine the radii of the arcs, which don't have the center points in the original drawing (most of this arcs were drawn with French Curves).
The list gives the different values:
Lower height of breath: 72.53 first:          260.35 second:    straight third:         -319.9  

 
Next I calculate the center point of the first curve: I draw an arc with the radius 260.35 from the endpoint of my help line and a radius from the center point of the lower height of breath withe the radius 260.35 - 72.53 = 187.82. Then I draw a line from this center point to the center point of the Lower height of breath and stretchit to the circle of the Lower height of breath. Now you can draw a circle with the first radius.

 
Now I repeat these steps for creating the center point of the third curve. I draw to circles with the determined radius, one from the keel and one from en point of the help line.

 
Next I draw a straight line to both circles. There exist an Autocad function to do this, so nothing to construct for me .

 
At last I draw the frame. I start at the Lower height of breath. Then I draw the upper height of breath and complete the frame with the other arcs and straights.


I hope that this small description is helpful for someone.

Thanks Joe, Vivian & Mark. Indeed I used the knurling attachment from Shereline, it gives a good grip and a adds a nice touch.
 
Port side treenailed
 

 
And draught marks added, they won't be painted red as they should as this might be to distracting. They are just 3 mm, 1/8" high
 

 

 
Remco

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 91 – Main Deck Framing 2
 
The first picture shows the most time consuming step in framing the deck – fitting the hanging knees under the beams.  I have been doing a lot of this lately.
 

 
After fitting the knee its bolts are installed at the workbench, it is sanded smooth and then glued in place.  Later it will be further secured with two functional copper wire bolts – one down through the beam and another through the frames.
 
The next picture shows a few more beams installed with their carlings.
 

 
The next picture shows the aftermost beam on the main deck – at frame 36. 
 

 
There will be a few steps down to the cabin deck and a few steps up to the poop at this location.  A transverse bulkhead will be installed from the main deck to the poop deck.  The cabin deck will also be closed off from the hold with internal partitions.
 
The next picture shows some other work being done as the beams are installed.  Chocks with circular holes have been installed just aft of the fore hatch.  The anchor chain tubes will fit into these holes and extend from the main deck into the chain storage area in the hold.
 

 
The next picture shows more main deck beams fitted and some additional details installed.
 

 
The two bored chocks at the main deck have now been installed – also the topsail sheet bits.
 
Finally in the next picture - aft of the main hatch - framed, bored openings for the two bilge pump suction pipes have been made and installed.  These pipes will extend down to the outer planking in the limber channel just aft of the main mast step.
 

 
The plank strakes outside of these openings are for the pillars under the main deck.
 
 
Ed

Mizzen mast progress, and a few more outside shots
 

Hi Guys thanks for the ticks
 
Jason I did not make the futtock strops as per the instructions I bought Amati 3mm deadeye futtock strops and hooks much better and very cheap. Some photos below.
 

Painted matt black

 

 

Hello All!
 
It has been a while since my last post and I am in the need to explain why It is taking me so long to post something reliable…
I have lots of “war fronts” open with the Triton, the wales, the gunports, the stern, the inside planking, the limber strake… I´m kind of lost with so many started out things so I have make kinda schedule to be followed (hope so) and erase every single point.
 
The other reason is that I have started seriously the draft of a 74 called “Principe de la Paz” (Prince of the Peace). Is a Spanish ship dated on 1803 from a shipwright called Julian Martin de Retamosa.
 
I supposed that the ship was never built because I have been searching and searching and there´s absolutely nothing about her on the books about taking action in any combat on that period. I have the plan already scanned and it´s real. I mean the draft was real. Another thing is if she was actually built or not. I supposed not.
 
Here´s a tiny pic of the whole plan. The original size is big (5906x1778 - 50x16 cm and weights 18Mb) therefore I´m able to draw on it pretty accuracy.
I think I´ll open a new log as I said to Christian (Anobium) because It´s a whole new project by itself.
 

 
No pics of the Triton by the moment but right now it´s like a volcano because if I follow the schedule she is going to grow up pretty quickly… fingers cross.
 
Best wishes and happy days! oooOH Happy Days!
 
Daniel.

Progress has been rather slow as of late due to holidays, and other pastimes, mainly selling two motorcycles, and buying one, plus ratline tying is a chore, the main lower mast shrouds,ratlines,catherpins, futtock staves and shrouds are now done.
 
 
 
stave location marked

ratlines done

Lower maim mast done




fore and main