jaerschen

Hello guy's
 
I will start my build of the Triton again.
Christian (AnobiumPunctatum) and I are started our builds in 2009. But we built the hull in single frame and not in double frame based of the original drawings (Christians idea). It was originally planned to use the MSW frame drawings. But I realized during the build of the fore cant frames that the MSW frame drawings were not suitable for a single frame build. That's why I had a break for about 4 years. Now I pencilled all the frames new and would like to continue the build of the frames. After the frame build I'll use the MSW drawings for the remaining build.
Now there are some photos from The keel, stern apron etc.
 







 
More photos are following soon

I am still here! The Triton has been put aside until I finish another project...will get back to it soon I hope!

Hi Daniel
 
My Triton isn't parked but the Leopard   . Currently I fit the afterwards Frames at the Triton but I'm a very slow model builder. I believe that all Frames are fitted at the end of Oktober.
But now one question to your build. I'm not really shure, but could it be that the upper and lower timber at the first Gunport must be fitted as you can see of the following picture?
 

Richard,
 
It's all a learning curve, and for me at least, that curve is actually a straight vertical line.    So don't feel bad.  We're all in the same boat, so to speak.

Agreed. I am lucky that I have you folks to keep me on track. It looks like I am due to make another donation to this forum as thanks for all the help.
 
Richard

'Learn by experience' is great once you have learnt. Can be a bit annoying during the learning as everything goes wrong..(at least in my experience)

Couple more photos, bit more completed over the last week or so. Some of the pieces are not glued in place yet. I will fix these in the evening after work and the kids are in bed. I try to leave something quiet to do in the evenings.
 

 

Hi,
here the photos of the current progress. It's halftime of the frame build

Hello Juergen,
 
I guess it could be but the probrem is that the pine wood piece I have been using for all the gun ports simply do not fit on that way. I´ve seen other models and they just put it with that angle. Indeed on the sheer plan you can see the bevel on the frame and is more or less on the half of forest single frame. On my case and with that bevel I saw no necesity of cutting a long ceiling piece to conform the gunport and I decided not to "weak" the frame more than necesary.
 
Hope it helps. How does it work this first gunport on Leopard? Is it the same? Maybe you can "extrapolate" it to the hMS Triton.
 
Keep going!
 
 
Daniel.

Much thanks for the nice comments.
 
@Daniel
No problem my friend. The Leopard is to be on hold. Currently I'm  fitting the afterwards Frames at my Triton

Thank you for all the "likes" and comments. 
 
Hawse timbers... version 4.5 (1 side was replaced once, the other twice).   The hard part (to me) is that lines drawing give no shape to the bow forward of the first cant fram so I'm fumbling with templates and photos.  I think I'm close.  I've filled in most of the low spots and sanded down the highs.  Cherry has this nice feature  that if it ages a bit and darkens, when you sand it the sanded parts become light. This, coupled with a batten and templates gives you a pretty good idea of where one stands in the fairing.
 
They still need more fairing but I need to hold off a bit.  Frankly, I'm getting tired of the sawdust in the air at the moment.     The reality is, I need to put in the gunport sills and fair those in.  And then the interior.  The deck clamp "knees" (actualy just nubs of wood) need to be worked such to give a smooth sheer to the clamps.  I'll have to hold on the clamps though, until the stern is finished.
 
Yes, I'm avoiding the stern like the plague.  Hahn doesn't give you a template on the plans for the transoms so I'm sorting this out.  I have the stern framing showing height and width of the timbers, the side showing the location and depth but no top view showing the shape.  Again, much staring at the prints and Hahn's limited build photos.  This seems to be one of those areas that are "up to the builder" to sort out like the quarter galleries.   Speaking of which I'm also sorting out that area as it's not really defined on the prints as to timbers.  However, I'm putting together a plan, which if it works I'll happy dancing for weeks.
 
So... to the pictures.  The first three show the hawse timbers and cant frames.  None of this will be visible when planked.  The last is kinda' artsy-craftsy looking at the interior so I can get an idea of amount of fairing in there to be done.
 




 
 
As always, feel free to click on any picture to enlarge it to full size.  Oh.. sorry for the sawdust and debris.  I really need to hit this with the shop vac.

Daniel,    yes as I fit the gunports I am making some adjustments but there will still be some that are not square.
 
Pete, Thanks for the encouragement I have not decided yet how much planking I will do! most likely I will pick the worst side doing the most planking on that side. I was thinking about removing some of the filling frames to open the inside up for viewing. 
 
I just have for remember I am learning while doing!
 

 
I can't wait until I start the decks inside!

Some updated pictures! still working on the gun ports and fairing the inside. The framing is starting to look a bit cleaner. This vessel has a very sharp entry as you can see by the picture.
 

 
The starbord side gun ports are pretty much cleaned up and have started on the portside.
 

 
Yes some of the frames are not square!

Hello. Thank you all for your attention and kind words. Here are some photos made ​​in recent days. Keelson installed. Started doing limber strakes.
 

Sooooooooo it looks already a bit more friendly by now ...
 

 
... closed the gaps with Evergreen and Apoxy-Sculpt ...
 

 
... and the new steps are a awaiting :-)
 
A good trick to get an even result ist to just first fix every second one ...
 

 
... and use the ones in between to average out the rhythm :-)
 
 
 
And to finish put the crown onto its place :-)
 
Cheers, Daniel

Hello All!
 
Thanks Juergen, Beatiful progress you´re making on the Leopard. I progress slower than you. Are you going to drop the HMS Triton or is it temporary "parked"? It´s the only one "as designed", please don´t do it! (leave it)
 
After the big discover about the number of gunports I have decided to leave it there, glue the ceilings and plank the whole area. I was thinking about planking it anyways.
 
I have been all this morning with gunport no.#1 and I´m pretty sattisfied with the result. It is beveled on both frames aft and fore... quite tricky.
 
Here are the pics! I know there is a lot of them for a single detail but it took me a while and as I said it´s tricky and the plans don´t show it in its complexity. The next days I will sand the wale and paint it. I´ll make some trials with srap wood first, we´ll see...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Daniel.

The sheer strake was installed next.  This is 3" thick and is let down to the top of the gun port where the width of the upper planking would have been less than 5".   There is a hook scarf amidships.  I have cut down some of the timbers to just above the sheer strake.  By leaving them a little long at this point I am preventing damage to the top edge of the sheer strake. 
 

 
I ran into two problems:  one correctable and the other not.  Although it is hard to tell from the pictures, my Dremel has developed a wobble in the shaft and consequently the holes are slightly oversized.  I solved this by dipping the treenails in dilute glue before installing.  Usually I install them with pressure fit and rely on the finish to seal them into place.  It appears a new Dremel in on my horizon.  You can see my general approach for treenailing in the following picture.  I draw a light pencil line to indicate the center of the frame.  Next, I pencil in the locations of the treenails.  I use a carbide stylus to prick the wood so the drill bit does not wander.  And finally I drill the hole.  I start at the bottom and work up to the top.  The sawdust drops down so by starting at the bottom I do not have to clean off the hull after each hole has been drilled.  I sanded the aft area so show how the treenails disappear until finish (or water) is applied.
 

 
Now for the relatively uncorrectable problem.   As I mentioned before, I had to correct the sill heights to get a smooth run.  This was accomplished by lowering the central gunports and raising the aft gun port and bridal port.  I have already stripped the planking twice and began to be concerned about the integrity of the frame glue joints with the repeated application of isopropanol.   Therefore, I decided not to strip the planking again even though the appearance is not perfect.  You can see my shim on the lower port opening and the height that had to be removed at the top.   I am not pleased with it but weirdly feel better for showing the problem to whomever reads this log.  I guess that means I need a life!  The wood was wet down to show off the treenails.
 

Hello Jürgen,
 
the hull will be a dream. A completely clean work.
 
 
 

Hey Juergen! Hello!!
 
Sorry about all the "likes" but it was me... nothing wrong with MSW 2.0!
 
I just went from page one from 4th of may through all the log. Don´t know why I was missing your new log. Anyway the follow button has been clicked so I´ll be here waiting for your updates.
 
Best wishes and happy modelling!
 
 
Daniel.

Delimitation of the different areas in the front of the rear galery

In over 30 years, this is the first time there are no model ships at home. The 5 left I have are regrouped in an unlikely duo; model ships and spiritual paintings.  I think, even if there are only 5 models, scale scope is covered and I guess that nobody was prepared to see models at 1/24.

Hello,
  I will continue at the French corvette with the installation of the anchor supports on the larboard side. The anchor was initially placed only temporarily, to see if it fits.
Here I show you two photos:
 

Hi Mark,
thanks for your kind words.
 
Here is a little update, with other metal fittings for the outboard walls of the French corvette.
I hope you enjoy the pictures.
This can happen sometimes.

 
Here's a look into my sorting box with various fittings.
In this case also the support for the anchor and the boat davits are seen.

 
Here you can see a scupper valves.

 
The eye bolts to mount outboard.

 
Drilling the bolt holes with a diameter of 0.3 mm drill is a very delicate affair. For one of these fittings 8 holes are to be performed.

 
Finally, an overview.

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 85 – Middle Deck Binding Strakes
 
The binding strakes provided an additional reinforcement to the connection of the deck beams to the hull frames.  These 8” thick members, placed against the inboard face of the waterways, were bolted vertically into each beam and horizontally – edge bolted – through the waterway and each frame.  On the model I represented this bolting with monofilament – one down through each beam and one edge bolt above each ledge between beams.  There were probably twice this many bolts used on the real ship. 
 
The first picture shows the forward section of binding strake on the starboard side being glued in place.
 

 
The binding strakes were joined with hook scarphs as shown in the photo.  They were also rounded over or beveled down to the deck planking on the inboard side.
 
 In the next picture the joint measurements are being transferred to the end of the next section.
 

 
The length of the hook is being marked here,  The piece was cut back to the angle first.  The next picture shows the last section on the port side at the stern being fitted.
 

 
The next picture shows the binding strakes installed at the bow – ready for bolts.
 

 
The holes for the horizontal bolts were drilled before installation – those for the vertical beam bolts after.   In the next picture a length of monofilament is being glued in to represent one of the beam bolts.
 

 
After installation of the binding strakes the deck was given a final leveling with 220-grit paper as shown below.
 

 
This was followed by final sanding using 220 then 320-grit paper – by hand and using the detail sander shown in the last photo.
 

 
Next will be installation of the side inboard planking, starting with the heavy 10” x 12” standing strakes over the waterways.  Hatch coamings and some decking can also be started.
 
Ed

I just found out some information about the Lettie.  Back in July, John Cole, here on MSW, started to build America’s cup racer Puritan.  Since Puritan is on my “to build” list, I decided to do some research on her.  She was designed by Edward Burgess who also designed cup racers Mayflower and Volunteer.  About that same time (1888) Burgess was approached to build a schooner.  For two years his schooner won every race it was in.  It was then sold to the fishing fleet.  That boat was the Fredonia.  Because of its speed the Fredonia was copied several times. Those boats were referred to as Fredonia models.  The Lettie G. Howard was the last of the Fredonia models.
 
This is not a model of a brand new boat.  This boat has been around and working for a while, first as a private yacht, then as a cod fisher and finally as a mackerel fisher.  This model is of the mackerel boat.  You’ll notice that the rigging is not consistent.  That is to say the fore mast is not a copy of the main mast etc.  That is because as modifications and changes were made they used what was “at hand” as long as it worked.
 
Now some pictures of the build at present.  A lot of MSW members publish pictures with each add they make.  I don’t seem to be able to do that.  So here are a lot of little things.  Still a long way to go. 
 
Bob
 

Over all
 

Main halyard
 

Fore halyard
 

Jombo jib halyard
 

Bowsprit shrouds
 

Bowsprit
 

Main gaff
 

Fore gaff
 

Spring lines