jaerschen

Kept thinking I needed to make a carriage jig to hold the carriage side at the proper angle for drilling holes and mounting the axiltrees..... so I made a simple and workable jig!  Got the first carriage slots made for the axiltrees with it.
 
AL

Great work Ray. I can't wait to see more

Juergen, pic "spanten05" is beautyful!
 
Great Work, with the ship and the pics... oh How I am willing to go back with "my" Triton.
 
All the best and happy modelling!
 
 
dani danielo.

Hi,
here the photos of the current progress. It's halftime of the frame build

I'm still working and not just daydreaming about my next project.  Chesstree installed - bit of glare as the tung oil dries - hoping to tackle the fenders and ladders next

Thank you Mark and John,
 
have worked further, and finished the bulkhead.
 

 

 

 

 
Alex

Here are some pics of aft cant frames 8 thru 10 installed.
Making up the last 3 frames now.
 
Ben

Continuing to hammer away at the forecastle as time allows.  The floor planking is complete and this evening I pretty much got the cap rails.  They are not glued as of yet:
 

 
This leaves the tie down posts which affix to the cap rails, cleats, 2 ladders, blackening of the chimney and the eking rails.  Oh - the scroll transition piece from upper to lower railing.  The list continually shrinks.  I am amazed at how much the look of the ship has changed in the last couple of weeks.
 
Tracing the exposed deck beam onto some paper was VERY key to making the deck plank cover up board quite easy.  It does not cover up the entire deck beam to give some more grip / glue area to the ladders.
 
My plan for the tie down posts is, once their locations are known, to drill a hole for a dowel through the cap rail.  Then the tie down post will be tack glued above this hole.  Once set, I will drill from the bottom and then insert the dowel.  Less things to juggle and should insure an accurate fit.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

On to the catheads!
 
I decided to opt for a stylized cathead, one that didn't include the section underneath the forecastle.  This was in keeping with not including the knees.  To simplify things I decided to plank the forecastle first and then add the catheads.  I will probably chisel them in just a tad for added realism.  I have only planked one side currently to allow me to know exactly where the beams are.  Both sides will eventually be planked.
 

 
It was at this point that I sanded everything perfectly level between the internal and outside planks.  A cap rail will cover the ribs, ends of the floor planks and outside planks.
 
I cut some boxwood to the correct dimension of the catheads and measured out there targeted locations.
 

 
At this scale (1/48) my preferred method of defining sheaves is to cut out everything except the center, then rebuild (essentially as built practice).  This meant lots of careful chiseling.  Which isn't obvious here is that I did add a mortise past the sheave hole for the mating piece to fit into for strength.  For the sheaves I lathed down some boxwood.  They fit perfectly in the sheave slots and I was quite happy at the result.
 

 
I finally added an angle to the inboard cathead to simulate it going below deck.  I still need to dowel it solid in place but it is definitely a keeper.  When I add the cap rail it will really make this strong.
 

 
Now I just need to duplicate on the other side (but not forget to include the hole for the chimney in the planking!).
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark
 
 

Just a light update... been working on frames.  Have several cut and test fitted and all reference points marked.
 
The pics below show how I'm solving the issues that plagued me on Version 1.0.   
 
Since all measurements are referenced to the build board, I've added a tab to each frame to securely locate that point (green arrow). After I cut in that part of the frame, I fit it and re-measure, re-refrence the other points. 
 
One set of points is where the deck clamps need to be so the red arrows show those.  1/8" deck beam, a 1/8" clamp and 1/16" inch plank will put the deck height were it needs to be.  This particular frame is #1 and thus, there's three decks.. lower, gun, and forecastle.
 
The blue arrows reference the outside dimensions of the gun port cutout for the sill to sit properly.  I'm using a 1/8" sill and when they're fitted I'll finesse them to be exact.
 
The black arrows point to the line for the wales.  These are small cuts into the frame and filled with colored glue to hightlight  They only demarcate the transition line from wale to planking and vice versa.
 
The black arrow with the white fill is the cutline for when this beast is finally cut from the build board.  A top rail will sit on top of this line.
 
I'm going slow and careful to avoid dong wrong what I did the last time.
 

Hi,
here the photos of the current progress. It's halftime of the frame build

Hi
here are photos of the progress before the long break.
 
You can see the first attempt at the first photo based on the MSW drawings. Afterwards it was clear to me that the Frame-Drawings were not suitable for a single frame build.

Hi Nils
 
You are doing a great job. It's always a pleasure to your updates.

A nice save....   One way around the paper problem is to punch many small holes in the paper so the glue can soak through to the other side.  I forget who's doing it, but they are using black tissue paper.  The paper is thin enough to allow the glue to soak through.  Another way is color the glue.  EdT talks about this in his Naiad log and it works as have tinted a bottle of Elmer's wood glue and it works very well.

I've finished the keel and glued the false keel to it.
 

 
I'm quite happy with the result. There are no longer gaps between the keel and the false keel.
 
The pencil caulking leaves a fine line between the parts. Just enough to accentuate the different parts. I still have to do some sanding on the keel and to clean up the last paper on it.  But here is the result with the bulkheads dry fitted.
 



 
Next thing to do, cutting the rabbet.  The thing i fear the most, i've never cut one before when i was building from kits.
I think i'll practise on som scrap wood first.

Working on the midships bulkheads, those need to be hollowed out to form the inner cabin.
 
I first drilled some wholes in the bulkheads.
 

 
Those wholes permitted me to insert the saw of the scroll saw. I then sawed along the line of the cabin floor and the lines for the thickness of the frame. Leaving an upper beam for strength, it'll come off afterwards, when the planking will be done.
 

 
Afterwards i used the drum sander of my Dremel to roughly sand the inner contour of the cabin.
 

 
And finishing off with the file.
 

 
Dry fitted the finished midship bulkheads.
 

Hi Don and welcome to my build log.
 
I continued my work on the keel.  I first glued some black paper on the keel. 
 

 
Afterwards I glued the different pieces to each other.
 


 
I just did the stem, as I’ve noticed the pieces at the stern were not long enough.  There’s a gap between them and the profile former. 
 

 
Back to the saw to fabricate new pieces.
 
There's also a small gap at the sterm but since that part will dissapear when the planking will be done, i'll just glue a small filler piece between them.
 

 
For the curved piece of the keel, I made a simple jig to keep enough pressure on the parts till the glue dries and to make sure, the pieces are flat to each other.
 

 
An overview of the whole keel and the profile former with the stern pieces and profile former not yet glued to each other.
 

 
Now I was wondering if have not made a mistake here.  I used black paper to simulate the caulking, but are those pieces really supposed to have caulking between them?  

Then it was time to make my first sawdust.  I glued all the bulkheads on a sheet of ply and then cut them out using a scroll saw. 
 


 
After sawing them out (i had to leave enough on them), i used the sander to finetune the bulkheads.
 


 
I printed the plans a couple of times, en used them to cut out the forms to make the keel. I temporarily glued them using a paper glue on a piece of cherry wood.  First time i used this wood, and it sure is a difference from the wood used in kits. It feel and looks so much nicer.
 

Finally got a little time this week to work on the ship.  I have made the upper deck hatch coamings and have started on the gratings.  I forgot to take any pictures so let me verbally summarize the construction.  The fore-and-aft pieces (coamings) have a rabbet to accommodate the ends of the grating strips.  There is no rabbet on the athwartship pieces (head ledges).  On the lower deck coamings I made a simple half-lap corner.  The actual construction technique involves angling the mortise in both the x and y planes, effectively locking the pieces together.  I simplified this to angling only the x plane (the y plane angle would not be visible). In contrast to the lower deck coamings, these taper towards the top rather than being slab sided.  The top of the coaming is curved to match the curve of the deck beam.  The top of the ladder way is parallel to the water line whereas the hatches follow the angle of the deck.
 
Dan (shipmodel) showed a method on QAR for making serrated strips for hatch gratings that I stole.  Thank you Dan.  I have always used the Preac saw to "mill" the slots for hatch gratings, but I would eyeball the distance between slots.  He glued a strip of wood to the top of the saw with CA to act as a sled so that each slot is equidistant from the last.  A little acetone and the top of the saw is as good as new.  My only complication was that the slots should be 0.053" wide and the widest saw blade I had was 0.048".  So once the slots were cut I used a razor blade to shave the slot to the correct width.  I made the slots in the grating ledges deeper than normal and the grating battens thicker than normal because the lateral edges need to be sanded to follow the curve of the  hatch coamings.  
 

 
The hatches are temporarily tacked in place, awaiting pegging and final finishing.  The opening in the aft hatch for the bits will be made after they have been shaped.
 

 

Build log part 29
 
 
Now starting with fitting out forecastle beneath and on top of that deck
 
 

Fitting the first two Posts that also take up the bowsprit counterplate
 

the gundeck is cut away, wide under the forecastle deck as well..., to allow view from above to lower decks
 

tried to gain standhight for the Crew here as well (as good as possible)
 

Access to the forecastle deck shall be over the hatch-opening on starboard deck side (per Stair, the deckbeam shall be cut away at that Position. The stair shall fit nicely in between the first two gun tackles
 

the two masterboards fitted in place
 

view underneath...
 
 

deck openings for gratings, stovechimney
 

the planking of the deck will be done later on
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 30 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 28
 
 
here are some changes to the lower section to the Stern Appeal...
(initiative born by fellow members)
 
 

this was the look before...
 

and here before...
 

and here after the change
 

 

Close ups are always risky, but I trust it`s OK to Show...
 

 

the combinattion of partially cut away portside planking and actual outside bulwark decor above.
That Stringer on portside just above the wales will have to take on the chainplate fastening bolts later on
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 29 to follow....
 
Nils

Both builds look very good and well executed!

Speed and looks great also.
 
Later Tim

Looking very good jaerschen. I'm amazed by the speed of your build.

Much thanks Tim
 
But that's not the correct work area because I made the photos before a little exhibition. The correct work area is not so tidy.
The model below is the HMS Leopard.