jaerschen

If I fit the transoms I had a big trouble. The reason was a wrong angle at the top-view plan.
On the following photo you can see the correct angle and the discrepancy.

 
If I know that it was possible to fit transoms.







 

Toptimbers:

Since the inner side of the bulwarks will not be planked, I need to add toptimbers between the ones already treenailed to the bulkheads. Since these are quite thin (approx. 2.5 x 2.5 mm or 1/10") there is always the danger of breaking some of them when working on the hull. To avoid this I have glued pieces of Obeche between them as stiffener, which will be cut out again later:
 

 

 
All toptimbers are glued in, the next step is to make the keel, stem and sternson before planking can be started.
 
Keel, stem and sternson, knee of the head:
 

 

 

 
The rabbet in the keel and stem has been cut manually by means of a Stanley knife:
 

 

 

 
 
Keel, stem (with knee of the head) and sternson are glued onto the model:
 

 

 
The hull is now ready for planking
 
 
Klaus

Hello, thanks to everyone for the kind comments.
 
Karl
 
 
Upper-Deck
prepared for the installation of the cannons.
 
 
 
 
T e i l  45

Hello,
thanks to everyone for the kind words and likes..
 
12 pdrs cannon barrel
 
Pictures from the production of the negative mold to the finished
cannon barrel in the tin casting method.
Karl
 
 
T e i l  46
 
 

This work is really fantastic ... I will follow him carefully, congratulations, you're really very adept at your job.
I wanted to achieve in the future HMS Leopard in scale 1/75 with the help of plans John McKay
Gianni
 
 

Beautiful work - great choice of build!

beautifull Progress Jürgen
 
ist a pleasure to watch such a great model grow...
 
Nils

If I fit the transoms I had a big trouble. The reason was a wrong angle at the top-view plan.
On the following photo you can see the correct angle and the discrepancy.

 
If I know that it was possible to fit transoms.







 

Hi d_yur, Tim and Ferrit
 
Much thanks for the kind comments.
 
Yes, I was very busy last time, but now I have more time to build at the models. I would like to build at both models. Next time, preferred at the Triton. I spent very much time in that project.
When would you like to continue your Berlin?

Hello guy's
 
I will start my build of the Triton again.
Christian (AnobiumPunctatum) and I are started our builds in 2009. But we built the hull in single frame and not in double frame based of the original drawings (Christians idea). It was originally planned to use the MSW frame drawings. But I realized during the build of the fore cant frames that the MSW frame drawings were not suitable for a single frame build. That's why I had a break for about 4 years. Now I pencilled all the frames new and would like to continue the build of the frames. After the frame build I'll use the MSW drawings for the remaining build.
Now there are some photos from The keel, stern apron etc.
 







 
More photos are following soon

Very interesting and high-quality work. Without simplifications and closer to reality. 
Good luck.

Looks like you are off to a Great start. Enjoy and Good Luck.
 
Later Tim

Hi Juergen,
It's pleasure to see you again on a work. This is another wow as expected.
But what are you thinking about Leopard?

Hello guy's
 
I will start my build of the Triton again.
Christian (AnobiumPunctatum) and I are started our builds in 2009. But we built the hull in single frame and not in double frame based of the original drawings (Christians idea). It was originally planned to use the MSW frame drawings. But I realized during the build of the fore cant frames that the MSW frame drawings were not suitable for a single frame build. That's why I had a break for about 4 years. Now I pencilled all the frames new and would like to continue the build of the frames. After the frame build I'll use the MSW drawings for the remaining build.
Now there are some photos from The keel, stern apron etc.
 







 
More photos are following soon

Hello guy's
 
I will start my build of the Triton again.
Christian (AnobiumPunctatum) and I are started our builds in 2009. But we built the hull in single frame and not in double frame based of the original drawings (Christians idea). It was originally planned to use the MSW frame drawings. But I realized during the build of the fore cant frames that the MSW frame drawings were not suitable for a single frame build. That's why I had a break for about 4 years. Now I pencilled all the frames new and would like to continue the build of the frames. After the frame build I'll use the MSW drawings for the remaining build.
Now there are some photos from The keel, stern apron etc.
 







 
More photos are following soon

Nigel,
 
Yes I did misunderstand. Thanks for the input input Well, for the four most rearward cannons, so be it. It seems as though, however, that I may not be the only Vasa kit builder with this dilemma irrespective of manufacturer.
 
So this issue is still to be resolved, and is a work in mental progress. I may opt for those smaller guns, and build small carriages. At this point I remain irritated, and may move on to an other area.
 
Also, when I look at photos of the 1/10th, that has some very long weather deck guns, It would seem to be a problem for them as well? As always thanks for your sage input.
 
Speaking of guns I finally received those four stern swivel guns that I had ordered. I may segue and install those in the interim. A nice part of this hobby; One can meander all over the place, exclusive of when it comes the time to rig. That needs to be specifically ordered.
 
 
Cheers,
 
Michael

The vertical timbers of the head rails were made up from some curved pieces of ply from the kit that were unused from the hair brackets. In a technique copied from Mitsuaki Kubota's fine Bellerophon build they were painted blue and some half mm walnut were laminated to the sides. This was sanded back to give a nice edge.


Careful shaping ensured a close fit.


The centre hair brackets running horizontally between the upper cheek and upper rail have been made up and painted and await cutting and fitting to slot between the verticals.
I'll be glad when this lot is finished.

With all the changes to the head rails the bowsprit was temporarily fitted and gammoning applied to make sure there was nothing that would be in the way later.

 
A small but nerve wracking addition was the hawse holes.
I added a reinforcing plank between the cheeks as per AOTS and as a result thinned down the bolster a bit and rounded the top and semi circle edges.
The bolster was held in place while holes were marked with the flat end of the 3.5mm drill bit dipped in paint. A smaller pilot hole was drilled first before the larger one. This was done with a Dremel. The bit was too long and had a little bit of wobble making the hole slightly bigger than I would have liked but nothing major. Tape on both faces prevented splintering which was my big fear. Not a lot of second chances with this area.


 
Now the final centre head rail can be knocked up.

Copper, Finished at Last!
 
This had to be the most tedious part of this build up to this point.  However, the result is really satisfying.  I am not sure I will ever copper the bottom of a model again, but I am glad that I finished this one.  I have to say, that the day that I bought this kit, I opened the box to examine the contents.  At that time, I was not sure I could ever get to this point in the build.
 
As you can see from the last photo, I have started to prepare the ship to receive the rudder.  This was a very nerve wracking step, as I did not want to wreck the counter.  
 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello guy's
 
I will start my build of the Triton again.
Christian (AnobiumPunctatum) and I are started our builds in 2009. But we built the hull in single frame and not in double frame based of the original drawings (Christians idea). It was originally planned to use the MSW frame drawings. But I realized during the build of the fore cant frames that the MSW frame drawings were not suitable for a single frame build. That's why I had a break for about 4 years. Now I pencilled all the frames new and would like to continue the build of the frames. After the frame build I'll use the MSW drawings for the remaining build.
Now there are some photos from The keel, stern apron etc.
 







 
More photos are following soon

Hello guy's
 
I will start my build of the Triton again.
Christian (AnobiumPunctatum) and I are started our builds in 2009. But we built the hull in single frame and not in double frame based of the original drawings (Christians idea). It was originally planned to use the MSW frame drawings. But I realized during the build of the fore cant frames that the MSW frame drawings were not suitable for a single frame build. That's why I had a break for about 4 years. Now I pencilled all the frames new and would like to continue the build of the frames. After the frame build I'll use the MSW drawings for the remaining build.
Now there are some photos from The keel, stern apron etc.
 







 
More photos are following soon

I agree Popeye, good idea,
 
the gun Lifting / changing Detail would be for an action-type Diorama. It could be inspiring for the diorama builders here on MSW.
 
Nils
 
wheels attached now, I think I should`nt put more to it...
 

Build log part 22
 
 
beginning with the guns....
 
 

this was thie first mock up model for checking dimensions, breech rope to be exchanged against natural hemp Color, dolphins on Barrel to be left away
 

staining the carriages
 

breechrope eyelet, other block tackle eyelets, caps on barrel Pivot pin, wheels still in the pipe...
 

 
 

 
 

here my jig for making the caps
 

use ordinary plumbers plyers for pressing the caps in shape
 
 
 
Nils

Thanks Nils, Ed, Jay and Russ for the compliments.  Jay - yes those slots are for the channels.  Almost a whoops there since I had almost glued in the molding over them before almost by chance remembering I needed to keep that clear.  The actual channels are roughed in and off to the side currently.
 
Now for the mast partners.  I had never really thought these through but had 'assumed' the normal fashion a ring and slip it over the mast and rest on the deck.  As I went over what had to be done I had one of those ah-ha moments where I realized the process was almost as complicated as the 'real' process.  Why not?  (bashing / scratch is so liberating - hah, hah).
 
First obstacle was that the deck hole was currently a snug fit for the mast and had to be enlarged, but by how much?  I affixed four 1/32" pieces to the mast and measured the resultant opening.   Also VERY important to trace the deck profile onto the mast since the partners are not at 90 degree angle to the mast.
 

 
This was then transferred to the deck and the hole suitably enlarged.  I measured the outside circumference of the new hole to define a uniform wedge size.  Then using some wood from the scrap pile (I  believe 1/8") I cut out that width and using a jig cut the tail down to the target 1/32".  The back of the wedge was sanded to the profile of the mast and the edges hand cut to the necessary bevel.  Each wedge had to be checked against the deck profile (drawn onto the mast) to insure the correct slant was added to the deck mating section.
 

 
Once all the wedges were attached there was point sanding to smooth / round things out.  I should note that I periodically checked the fit against the deck as the wedges were attached.  I still have some more refining to do but it works out to around an hour per mast partner.  Still have the main and foremast to do, hopefully today.
 

 
-mark

On to the bulkheads!  The windows ended up being 66 different pieces of wood, it will be interesting to see how many pieces are used for these 3 panels.
 
The approach for the 3 panels (2 cross ship, one bow and aft connecting) was to use a 3 ply sandwich of 1/32" basswood, used on other builds in this forum.  The middle piece is a solid piece of wood with the 2 other being trim pieces added to give the look of fancier paneling.
 
The initial form was defined through the use of cereal box cardboard.  If any one needs that detail let me know, but needless to say it took around 3-4 iterations before I was satisfied (around a full size Cheerio box - hah, hah).  Once I was satisfied with the fit I transferred to the basswood and cut out:
 

 
The panels were cut to fit under a defined deck beam, flush with the rear edge.  You can see in the above photo the Legos used to help hold things up (another great idea from this forum).  I then defined the doorway locations which required more effort than I thought.  The original location looked great but upon trying the panel in location was obvious had an issue with the location of the stairs to the berth deck.  I moved them farther out but then realized the door locations had to be equivalent on the aft bulkhead for the connecting partition to work and, of course, they were now too far out.  So....third time the charm and I got to an acceptable location:
 

 
The connecting panel was added and the trim work to allow them to connect.  I added some preliminary trim pieces to check out the pattern I sought after, but it is still incomplete.  The doors will not have windows added to them.
 

 
A final check required before the push to complete the panels was to add the other quarterdeck beams.  I love it when a plan comes together:
 

 
Tonight the plan is to complete the trim pieces on all three panels, add solid 3/32" pieces of wood between the beams on the fore and aft piece for strength and a more finished look.  The metalwork for the hinges and door knobs will be this weekend.  Then the pieces get stored away until the cannon carriage bolts are affixed.
 
Not too much work, but a tremendous change in visual appeal.
 
-mark