Mirabell61

Many thanks for your nice comments Crackers and Mark,
 
They are much appreciated    :)
 
Nils

Update on stern decoration....
 
Thats about what I can do (decoration), it`s also getting too fiddely now, more would be too much...
Early next week the stb-side can be done
 
Nils
 

 
the twisted wire chord left / right are fastened each with 7 pinpoints
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Hi Ed,
 
Thanks for your word...
 
I`m preparing to  complete the stern decoration next and then to make a break for this project , in order to finalize My HMS Pegasus project first
 
Nils

Hi Don,
 
thanks very much for taking an informative deep dive into the log, and for your Kind words, very much appreciated.
Yes it`s right, I always have eyes open for "everyday things" that can be transformed into something that is just needed, or will be needed later on.
For example, old candle holders from flea markets give nice pedestals for a stand-plate....
I Have luck that my wife easily understands if I tell her what I`m looking for in the Moment or for later on, and so have a second pair of eyes on the watchout...
On the other side I love to find solutions for things that I thought could not be realized at first look.
I`m glad the log is of interest to you, and that you had fun going through it
 
Nils

Update on stern decoration....
 
Thats about what I can do (decoration), it`s also getting too fiddely now, more would be too much...
Early next week the stb-side can be done
 
Nils
 

 
the twisted wire chord left / right are fastened each with 7 pinpoints
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Update on stern decoration....
 
Thats about what I can do (decoration), it`s also getting too fiddely now, more would be too much...
Early next week the stb-side can be done
 
Nils
 

 
the twisted wire chord left / right are fastened each with 7 pinpoints
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Update on stern decoration....
 
Thats about what I can do (decoration), it`s also getting too fiddely now, more would be too much...
Early next week the stb-side can be done
 
Nils
 

 
the twisted wire chord left / right are fastened each with 7 pinpoints
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Update on stern decoration....
 
Thats about what I can do (decoration), it`s also getting too fiddely now, more would be too much...
Early next week the stb-side can be done
 
Nils
 

 
the twisted wire chord left / right are fastened each with 7 pinpoints
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Many thanks for your nice comments Crackers and Mark,
 
They are much appreciated    :)
 
Nils

Update on stern decoration....
 
Thats about what I can do (decoration), it`s also getting too fiddely now, more would be too much...
Early next week the stb-side can be done
 
Nils
 

 
the twisted wire chord left / right are fastened each with 7 pinpoints
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

A stunning stern, Nils. 

Update on stern decoration....
 
Thats about what I can do (decoration), it`s also getting too fiddely now, more would be too much...
Early next week the stb-side can be done
 
Nils
 

 
the twisted wire chord left / right are fastened each with 7 pinpoints
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

beautiful work Toni,
 
I like it that you are taking care of the necessary standing hight in the cabin Areas...
 
Nils

Update on stern decoration....
 
Thats about what I can do (decoration), it`s also getting too fiddely now, more would be too much...
Early next week the stb-side can be done
 
Nils
 

 
the twisted wire chord left / right are fastened each with 7 pinpoints
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Update on stern decoration....
 
Thats about what I can do (decoration), it`s also getting too fiddely now, more would be too much...
Early next week the stb-side can be done
 
Nils
 

 
the twisted wire chord left / right are fastened each with 7 pinpoints
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Update on stern decoration....
 
Thats about what I can do (decoration), it`s also getting too fiddely now, more would be too much...
Early next week the stb-side can be done
 
Nils
 

 
the twisted wire chord left / right are fastened each with 7 pinpoints
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Thanks for sharing those pics Ed,
 
nice work with the correct tools
 
Nils

Mica is easily worked, David. It comes in layered sheets. These sheets (think millefeuille pastry!) split apart very easily, so you can get a very thin layer if you wish. It can be cut with a blade or sharp scissors. The only drawback is that there are many inclusions in the material, so you need to select the clearest pieces out of your sheet.

Overhead storage seems right to me Alan.  Thanks, Christian.
 
Bill Maxwell generously gave me some of his sheet mica for the windows.  So, of course, I had to remake the fore bulkhead window and re-glaze it with mica rather than acetate.  For those of you not familiar with his work, take a look at his Fly at  http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/projectphotos1.html?proj=74
 

 
The aft bulkheads were made in similar fashion to the forecastle ones.  They are only temporarily positioned to facilitate fabrication and insertion of the quarter deck beams.
 

 

 

 

Thanks for sharing those pics Ed,
 
nice work with the correct tools
 
Nils

Thanks for the "likes" and...
 
thank you, Greg.  See Naiad Vol II or YA Vol I for the complete method.  Its best to thickness sand the beams before slicing them off - as decscribed.  Individual beams may twist when passing through the sander.  It does work like a charm producing uniform beams and saves many hours.
 
Ed

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 35 – Forecastle Deck Beams
 
The POB model has some real deck beams to install – not many – just enough to introduce the method used on the framed model to POB builders. The method I used to make the forecastle beams – as well as the breast beam at the poop shown earlier – was very similar to that used on the framed model, but somewhat simpler.  It begins with a template for the round up of the beams.  In the first picture, a copy of one of the bulkhead patterns has been pasted to plywood and the curve of the deck is being sanded on the edge.
 

 
Since the round up radius is the same for every frame and every deck, any one of the patterns could be used.  The template was then used to trace the round up on to a piece of maple.  The curve was then sanded on to this piece as shown below.
 

 
Using a compass the depth of the forecastle beams was then drawn along the curve.  A blank that will be sliced into several beams was then cut off along this line, allowing some excess for sanding.
 

 
I then used the thickness sander to impart the final thickness on the underside of the beams as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The thickness sander does a great job with this.  The depth is uniform and parallel to the top face.  It is also very fast.  Without a thickness sander, I would have cut very close the line with the scroll saw, then sanded the underside by hand – not too arduous a task.  The individual beams were then ripped off –top side down! – on the circular saw as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The last picture shows the six maple beams and the breast beam, for which pear was used since it will be exposed and not painted.
 

 
As can be seen, I made these beams long before they were needed - before the planking of the main deck.  Cutting and fitting of the beams will be described in the next part.
 
Ed
 

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 34 – Main Deck Finishing
 
After all the deck planking was installed, it had to be leveled off and finished.  Regardless of how well the plywood bulkheads and the added under-deck supports are faired off beforehand, it will be necessary to level off the planking using a combination of filing with flat rifflers and/or sanding with coarse (say 120-grit) paper.  If you are building the model, I hope you will pay more attention to the bulkhead fairing work than I did.  My fairing could have been a bit more thorough.  The deck has some waviness, but only those permitted to touch it will notice.  Regardless of the perfection of the bulkhead fairing, it will be prudent to start with heavier deck planks – say 4 ½” thick vs. the final 3 ½”.
 
The first picture shows some 220-grit finish sanding being done after all the irregularities between planks were leveled out using a flat riffler.
 

 
I used this model to experiment with deck finish.  On the larger model, beeswax thinned with turpentine was used on all unpainted wood – after more extensive sanding and polishing.  After sanding with 220-grit, I finished this decking with water based, acrylic sanding sealer thinned to about 50% with water – two coats, each sanded smooth – 220-grit then 320-grit.  The planking was then coated with acrylic gloss artists’ varnish.  Two coats, thinned, each sanded with 320-grit and then rubbed with Scotchbrite® grey then white grades.  This left a silky satin finish on the deck.  Simulated deck fastenings were embossed after the first coat of varnish.  I used a piece of syringe tubing for this and felt that the varnished surface would better resist pulling out small plugs.
 
Deck fastenings on these ships were normally iron spikes driven into counter-bored holes that were later filled with wood plugs that usually matched the decking.  The next picture shows the embossing in progress.
 

 
For this work a length of syringe was held in a pin vise that could then be lightly tapped with a hammer.  I was very careful to emboss all fastenings directly over bulkheads or other under-deck supports to avoid the possibility of breaking the planks.  I used a light pencil line across the deck for each row, then alternated fastenings on either side of the line.
 
The next picture shows the tools used for this.
 

 
The syringe tubing had an OD of about 1 ½” and a sharp bevel was stoned around its end.  I used a scriber point to flare out the end slightly to avoid plugs being jammed in and pulled out.  The second pin vise shown was fitted with a small drill to use for cleaning out the end of the syringe as it became fouled.
 
After this embossing work, the deck was sanded with 320-grit paper and rubbed out with Scotchbrite®  in preparation for the final varnish coat.  This was then applied, left to dry, sanded with 320-grit, and finally rubbed out with grey then white grades of Scotchbrite®.  This left a polished sheen on the deck as shown in the next picture.
 

 
I felt that the acrylic varnish worked out quite well.  It dried hard enough to be rubbed out and polished to the sheen I was looking for.  Below is a picture of some of the finishing materials and brushes used on the model.
 

 
The finish used on the decks was Liquitex® High Gloss Varnish applied with the flat synthetic brushes shown.   High gloss finishes contain no flatting agents so they can be rubbed out to the desired sheen without being limited by the dulling agents used in semi-gloss or matte finishes.  The Scotchbrite® pads mentioned above were used for this and are shown in the picture.  The black Golden Fluid Acrylic® shown in the picture was used on the hull finish – to be described later.
 
Ed

this is how it looks like when engine is mounted in the compartment
and photos from hull and the deck
Mehmet

Hartmut,
 
the interior Fitting out is fantastic, those Colors and the cosy looking Little berths, just great
 
Nils